RANDOM NOTES ON A FULL MOON NIGHT

The moon, She shines on everyone
She knows what we can not,
Binding friends together
With ribbons of forget-me-nots...

The full moon is shining like big ripe peach over the rooftops. Dinaz and I sat awhile on the balcony enjoying the sight. I'm over at her place tonight for some company but she worked very late and then retires early so we didn't get a long visit. Tomorrow I'm heading off on a little day trip, just a change of scenery. The hot weather was getting to me. The heat zaps your energy, sucks the vitality out of you. I felt listless and unmotivated for a few days. But last night it rained a little and the air cooled. A good night's sleep on Christina's bed and this morning my energy had returned so I went off to the beach and had a lovely day.

It's been a bit lonely and at time's I've felt a little blue. All my friends were gone yesterday. Patrick returned home Sunday, Dinaz went out of town to visit friends, Christina and Dani left for Sweden. Nobody to really hang out with. I started jotting down random notes, a collection of thoughts and musings, some of it nostlagic, though I've tried not to let myself get too into the nostalgia or then I feel sad.

NOTES FROM THE COURTYARD: Monday ( I didn't even remember it was the Summer Solstice!)

Now that I've done my little research field trips around the Agora and Acroppolis and can visualize my characters moving about in this setting, I'd like to think a great blinding light of inspiration would hit me so I can do some actual writing for my novel. This is my last week here, and starting today, I'm house and garden-sitting for Christina.

It's quiet and cool here in the courtyard, birds chattering in the tree tops, the whir of traffic passing by on Kolokroni St. I enjoy sitting here reading, jotting down notes. Over the years, how many hours have I spent in this courtyard? Ten years, at least, counting the times I baby sat with Daniella, and other occasions when I've house/cat sat for Chris when she goes home to Sweden for a holiday. The last summer I saw Roberto it was here. I'd invited him to stay with me and we spent hours here in the garden reading and conversing over wine. My last photos of him were taken here, sitting this this very same chair I'm sitting in now, cigarette in hand, wine glass half full, a book open (he was a voracious reader). I knew he wasn't well that summer. I was concerned as his voice had become hoarse and he was moving about gingerly as if he was in pain. He didn't complain though, dismissed my worries, shrugged it off in his casual way. By the following summer he was dead of cancer that had spread from his throat through all his body. He never took care of himself. Each time we'd say goodbye I would think it was for the last time. He wouldn't say 'goodbye'. He'd always say "Misbehave!" I miss him so much!

Musings from the To Kati Allo Taverna: (Monday evening)

I came to the TKA for dinner tonight, hoping there might be some people around, someone to talk to. There used to be such a gang of us and now it feels strange sitting here alone. I feel the presence of the absent ones. Robbie, Graham...Graham and I used to spend evenings talking about music - mostly jazz. I had looked forward to telling him about the Jazz Festival in Cuba.
He had written just after Christmas to say he was looking forward to seeing me. Now he's gone too.
Nostalgia overcomes me, and a few tears fall...

The arrival of W. perks me up. I can't print her name because she's the daughter of a famous cowboy movie star of the '40's and 50's and step-daughter of an even more famous American novelist. I've known her since I first came here to live, although we were never more than casually acquainted. She's about my age, very Butch, you almost have to look twice to see it's a woman. She lives across the street from the TKA and comes out of her seclusion now and then, tonight passes by with a 'hello' and takes a table by herself inside. She has a son who sometimes lives with her and in the past it generated some rather oedipal commentary. I used to see the kid when he was about 10 yrs old, with his odd little midget nanny, drinking ouzo in Plaka. W. had an assortment of bizarre friends back then, La Dolce Vita. Now she lives very reclusively.
Eventually when she leaves the TKA she stops to chat, very friendly, says she'd just returned from the States, says she hopes she'd get to talk more to me before I leave. It would be mighty interesting to get into a real conversation with her. A fascinating character!

I sit alone, eating my dinner (Anna's chicken is the best!) watching the clientele, talking now and then to Anna's son Dino (I notice how charming he is, such an attentive waiter!) He's another one I've known since he was a tot running around the tables annoying everyone. The other night he was entertaining us playing his bouzouki.

A light rain begins to fall freshening the air. I won't mind walking home even without an umbrella. The cool air has revived me and I feel some of my energy returning. Anna's husband Leonidis arrives, greets me with "Yeia Sou Koukla Mou" (hello, my doll!) I feel 'at home' again. This family is part of my life here and this time there is such affection being shown to me which I find very touching. (Anne even tries to phone 'the guy from the bus' - Jimmy, the Greek who I keep meeting on the #20 bus in Vancouver who happens to be a good friend of theirs. Too bad, he isn't home!)

Notes made at Alimou Beach today (Tuesday)
Today I felt revived and started to organize the rest of my week here. It was good to wake up refreshed and eager for a new adventure. So I took the tram to the beach. A first, for me.
The tram is one of Aten's new rapid transit systems (though it's not as rapid as Sky Train). There's been complaints aobut it ever since they started digging up all the streets to lay down the tracks. Two years ago the city was a mess and one wondered if they would ever get it done in time for the Olympics. Miraculously they did! It's an odd-looking train, like one of those high speed bullet trains, but it's really not any faster than a trolley except, like SkyTrain, there are fewer stops and the tracks cut through the city, out to the coast, running from Syntagma to Voulagmenis where the big Olympic centre (camp) was.

It was easy to get to the beach as there is a stop at each of the beaches. 60 Euro one way and I guess it just took over half an hour to reach Alimou. Now I have the knack of it I can easily get myself to the beach any day if I wish.

Today was overcast and cooler so the beach was not crowded at all. I got a beach chair and umbrella right by the shore and relaxed all afternoon listening to music and reading, and swimming. It felt so good to be in the sea and not melting from the heat!

Tonight at Dinaz's, some closing thoughts...

I've been feeling quite homesick, so I'm trying to plan my final days here and not let myself just sit around or wander aimlessly for the zillionth time around Plaka. Tomorrow I'm taking a little trip up the eastern coast of Attica to Marathon, mainly to see the tumulus and museum there but also to check out the beach. I wanted to go to Messalongi to write about Byron, but it doesn't seem I'll get there as my money is running to short. So I'm going to have some beach time instead, work on my tan and relax by the sea. This weekend there are more free music concerts which I'll attend with my friends. Then, Monday, it's going to be a long day's flight but I'll be home again.

Stay tuned here for all the last adventures.

ANOTHER LITTLE FIELD TRIP

A hot, humid day in Athens. Patrick was leaving to return home to Germany today so we left the apartment early for a little field trip to the Pnyx Hill. Yesterday he accompanied me on a short walk through the National Gardens searching for the exact place where Aristoteles had his Lyceum, the School of Peripatetics (Walking Philosophers). The spot I had first identified was, according to the Blue Guide maps, actually the gymnasium, so I wanted to stroll through the Gardens to locate the approximate place where the school was, just to get the idea of the distance from the Agora and Acropolis. It was actually toward the back of what is now the National Gardens, just across from where the Stadium is and nearby on the other side of the park was the Garden of Theophrastos.
Both of them were quite a distance removed from the Agora. The River Ilissos ran along between the school and the stadium and no doubt it was a peaceful, sylvan setting conducive to walking and philosophizing.

Today's mini field trip took us up the Aereopagitou pedestrian path along the foot of the Hill of Muses. The path follows the ridge of a hill along what was the Diateichisinic walls which had been built to connect with Themistocles Long Walls, and enclosed the ancient quarters of Koile and Melite, site of many ancient dwellings dating to 5th C. B.C. (the time of the Peloponnesian War). It leads past the site of the North tower of "Dipylon above the Gates' where now stands the little church of Agios Dhimitrios Loumbardhiaris. The name comes from loumbardha
or "canon" and is derived from a miracle attributed to the Saint in which a Turkish canon, located on the Acroppolis, was struck by lightening at the moment it was about to open fire on the congregation. Just above the church rises the Hill of the pnyx, in Classical times popularly called "The Rocks."

This was the meeting place of the Assembly or Ecclesia, where the great statesmen such as Aristides, Themostocles, Pericles and Demosthenes held their audiences.
Pnyx means "the place where people were tightly packed". Piknos: compact, dense, crowded.
This was in reference to the single entrance way. The area itself could hold about 5,000 citizens as well as the Assembly officials. The Assembly was presided over by the Prytaneis. The citizens were hustled to the Pnyx by Scythian archers who held cords daubed with red paint across the streets of the Agora and neighbouring streets in order to hurry up the laggards and prevent citizens from cutting a meeting. There was only the one entrance, and everyone was scrutinized so no unauthorised persons could slip in. Nobody who was not a citizen could attend without special permission. Late comers who had been marked by the red paint, forfieted their allowance.

The Pnyx itself is a huge rock terrace in the form of a semi circle with a colossal retaining wall built of stone blocks. The excavations are more clearly marked now, including the Bema, a broad terrace levelled from the rock which served as the speaker's platform. (Up until a couple of years ago this is where they held the Athen's Sound and Light Show each night.) There's a magnificent view of the Parthenon from there, it also looks down over the Agora on the East side and a sweeping view of Athens right out to the port of Pireaus and the sea on the west. As well, there is a clear view of the Philoppapou monument on the Hill of Muses nearby.

Once the Assembly had gathered, prayers were offered at the altar of Zeus Agoraios and the shrine of the healing god, Zeus Hypeistos. The Assembly met ten times a year. The Chairman of the Prytaneis presided, assisted by a secretary and a Herald who made the announcements. The audience sat on wooden benches. At the lower level of the Bema sat the Prytaneis assisted by Scythian archers who kept order. After the 4th century BC the Pnyx was abandoned and the Assembly met at the Theatre of Dionysos.

I'd been to the Pnyx many times before but today was the first time I'd ventured beyond it, along the crest of the Hill of Nymphs where there is an old observatory (Asteroskopion) built in 1842, and nearby there are traces of the long Walls and the Barathron, the ancient place of execution. On the top of the Hill is the tiny Church of Agia Marina with its multi-domed modern successor dominating the hill. An inscription found on a rock here marks the limits of the Precinct of Zeus.

Patrick and I walked down the hill and arrived on the pedestrian walkway in Thisseion where we stopped for a frappe at a very expensive side-walk cafe. Then home again as he had to make it to the airport for his flight.

It's such a muggy day, and I have no energy to do more than just get myself over to Christina's. She's leaving for Sweden tomorrow and I'll be house and garden sitting for her this week. Dinaz is going to Evvia after work today so I won't see her again til Tuesday. Hopefully this week I will motivate myself to make a couple more day-trips, with the focus on travel writing material and also some trips to the beach. It's a long weekend holiday this weekend so I was advised travel would be too hectic til Tuesday as all Athens vacates for the villages when it's a holiday. Today as we walked around, passing various churches, we were treated to the harmonious choir singing and chanting of the priests celebrating this Saint's holiday. It made the little trip around a little more special.

MUSIC IN THE PLATEIA

Early morning sounds from Dinaz's balcony: the whirr and honking of traffic whizzing by on busy Syngrou Avenue, the grinding of machinery at the site of the new museum just up the street, street dogs barking, church bells chiming ding-dong-ding-dong, - the peeling of the bells represents a special evening calling the pious to the church. (On Greek Easter Good Friday you'llhear the steady monotonous bong-bong-bong of the funeral bells chiming all day long. For weddings and baptisms it's a more joyous ringing.)

\for me, a lazy morning, rising early to drink my coffee in the sushine on the balncy surrounded by the blooming hibiscus and other plants. Yesterday I had a day at the beach. Epame thalassa meta i filoi mou Christina kai Daniella. We went to our favorite Alimou Beach which has undergone some great improvements since the Olympics. A private beach: 5 or 3 euro admission depending on age group and on week days the chairs and umbrellas are free. All the amenities provided. The white sand is grainy and small pebbles and the water a lovely clear aqua. We sunned there all afternoon and I intend to return next week now I know how to get there on the new tram line.

When I got back to Dinaz's a group of us gathered to go to a free music show last night. These days in the various plateias (Plazas) there are open-air concerts and last night was an excellent rembetika concert at Thisseion.

We set off walking up Dionysious Arepagitou pedestrian mall to the Plateia. It's a lovely stroll with the acropolis all lit up in a golden light, musicians busking along the way: an Iranian man playing an instrument like a zither, a bouzouki player, a Russian with an operatic tenor singing the Volga Boat Song.

Music and dance have played an important part of Greek life since ancient times. Greeks love to sing and dance whether at a nightclub, a kefenion or at a concert like last night. The singing and dancing is usually acompanied by clapping. It's a wonderful thing to be at a concert or in a taverna and hear everyone burst into song especially if it's a rembetika tune, specifically if it's a composition by Mikis Theordorakis.

Musican insruments of ancient Greek included the lyre, lute, pikeis (pipes), kroupes (a percussion instrument) kithara ( a stringed instrument), aulos ( wind instrument) barbitos ( similar to a violincello) and the magadio (like a harp). There's an excellent music museum in Plaka where you can see copies of these as well as more recent instruments and listen to the audios of their sounds. The bouzouki is an instrument you'll hear everwhere in Greece and is used to play the traditional rembetika music. The word rembetika may come from the Turkish rembet which means "outlaw". This traditional music, a kind of Greek Blues, emerged in the 1870's from the low-life caafes (tekedes - hashish dens) in urban areas especially around ports. It became popularized in Greece by the refugees from Asia Minor.

The songs which emerged from the takedes had themes concerning hashish, prison life, gambling and knife fights. Music from the more sophisticated Middle Eastern music cafes
amenedes had themes centered around erotic love. These two types of music were blended by the refugees, from which came a subculture of rebels called manges who wore showy clothes - fedora hat, suit jacket draped over shoulders, flower in lapel, fingernail of little fingers grown long (for scooping cocain or perhaps to indicate they didn't toil at hard labour.) Most lived in extreme poverty and hung out in the tekedes smoking hashish from big narjilas (hookahs), singing and dancing. (Hashish was illegal but laws were not enforced until late in the '30's.) It was in a tekes in Pireaus (Athen's port) where one of the greatest rembetis, Markos Vamvakares was discovered in the 1930's.

After the censhorship laws and cleanup of hash dens, the music continued clandestinly, but the language changed and the recorded rembetika tunes became known as laiko tragoudi - disassciating it from it's "illegal" roots. A number of composers emerged at this time including Apostolos Kaldaras, Yiannis Papaiouanou, Georgos Mitsakis and Manolis Hiotes. And one of the greatest female rembetika singers, Sotira Bellou.

Rembeitka became popular again in the '50's and '60's but was less authentic although two outstanding composers were Mikis Theodorakis and Manos Hatzidakis. The best of Theodorakis work is the musix which he set to the poetry of Seferis, Elytes and Iannis Ritsos. (Last time I was in Greece Suzaki and I went to a concert at the Herodian where they were playing a tribute to Ritsos and Mistotakis was in the audience and came on stage to play one of his compositions. The audience adores him and the whole theatre began to sing and clap along with him. A thrilling moment!)

During the junta years in the '70's many rembtika clubs were closed down but revived in the '80's. The rembetika and laika performed last night was excellent: four bouzoukias, a keyboard, accordian and two soloists (male and female) The woman was especially magnificent with her throaty tremolo sining the "soul music" of Greece right from the depths of her heart.
The show lasted four hours, non-stop performance. By the end of the evening several men in the audience couldn't resist the urge to dance : the graceful dipping, swooping zeimbekikos
with it's whirling improvisations and the "Zorba dance", or sirtaki: a more stylized dance for two or three men or women linked arms on shoulders.

(Note: The folk dances of today derive from ritual dances of the past which were performed in Greek temples. Many are performed in a ciruclar formation because in ancient days dancers formed a circle in order to protect themselves from evil influences.)

There's more free shows coming up and next time I'll take my tape recorder along! I did get some good photos last night but wished I had taken along my little hand-held tape recorder as I'm sure it would have picked up the sounds clearly. The music was unforgettable!

A TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE

When I first started visiting Greece, and later when I lived here, I stayed in the Plaka, which is the old district just below the Acropolis. The name "Plaka" may be derived from the Albanian pliaka (old). It's part of the original old town which corresponds with the ancient deme of Kydathenaeion (and that's the name of the central street that runs through the plateia, Plaka Square.) In Turkish times much of this area was known as Gorgokikos. It's narrow lanes have steps rising up the slopes of the north side of the Acropolis hill to the little village of Anafiotika where the stone masons from the Island of Anafi settled. Most of Plaka is occupied by tavernas and tourist shops although now the grand old Neo Classical residences dating to the mid 19th B.C. re being restored and it's a prime location to live. I was lucky to have lived there while it was still inexpensive!

YesterdayI took a walk down memory lane, starting from Dinaz's apartment at the edge of Plaka, going up Vironos St. past #14 where I lived during the '80's in a cool, shady basement suite, sharing a courtyard with my lovely landlady and Roberto, my Argentian artist friend. Before that I had lived over in Koukaki on a tiny dead-end street called Iannatakis, with my African American friend Connie. When I returned after the summer of '84 I moved into this little suite where I lived until leaving Athens in '87. The street, Odos Vironos, is named after the poet George, Lord Byron. At the end of the street is the choregoi monument of Lysikrates. Lysikrates was a choregos who sponsored a choir of boys in a competition at the Theatre of Dionysos. Where the monument stands, and there used to be a milk shop where our gang of ex-pats hung out. It was known as the "Dirty Corner" because of the excavations around the monument, which have since been filled in.
This was once part of the Street of the Tripods. Odos Tripodon.

It was the custom of the victorious chorogoi (chorus sponsors) to dedicate to Dionysos the tripods which they had won in dramatic contest or choirs. These were either erected in the precincts of the Theatre of Dionysos which is just behind the Street ofTripods or on the street, which was specially appropriated to them. There is still a Tripodon St. which runs into Vironos, and also another street at this junction called Shelly St. after the poet Percy Byce Shelly who used to hang out with Byron on that corner.

The nomument is a round structure of Pentilic marble on a base with six Crinthian columns holding up a dome. At one time it was known as The Latnern of Demosthenes as it was believed the orater prepared his speeches while sitting inside it. During the 1800's the nonument was incorporated in the library of a French Capuchin convent. Byron, one of the many guests at the convent, is said to have used it as a study. He wrote part of Childe Harold here (1810-11)

Passing by the former "Dirty Corner" (the milk shop no longer exists and it's now quite a 'clean' corner) I couldn't help but recall the many daily dramas that took place there (of which sometimes I was the star). Every table would be occupied by ex-pats, strolling tourists or locals and there was alway some sort of scandal and much merriment. Often when I was on my way to lessons I'd have to skirt around here and detour the Plaka Square or someone would nab me along the way, inviting me to sit down for a krasi and chat and I'd never get to my destination. When I'd come home later in the evening, they'd all still be there, holding court in front of the monument, generally gathered around Roberto, the side-walk philosopher who provided hours of interesting discourse on life, often talking endlessly about his beloved Argentina, from which he was an exile.

Past this corner, I enter the Plaka tourist district, going down Adrianou St. with all the souvenier shops, until I reach the corner of Aeolou St. and Hadrian's Library. The Library covers a large area and is still being excavated and restored. The interior was laid out as a garden with the rooms around it, probably like those in the library at Alexandria, Egypt. Up Aeolou Street to familiar territory.

When I first started visiting Athens from 1978 until 1983 when I came back to live here, I always stayed in this part of the Plaka and spent my time in Monastiraki, especially at the Taverna Poulakis where I made a lot of friends including Giorgos who used to live in Anafiotkia, and Connie the African-American girl I later shared an apartment with. One of the same waiters, Ari, still works at the taverna next to Poulakis (which is closed now) and each time I'm here I go around for a meal and a visit.

My favorite hotel at the time was the funky old Hotel Tempi. It was a five-floor walk-up hotel that used to rent rooms out by the hour for those desiring a quick tryst, so there was always a lot of action. I'd lug my back-pack up the marble stairs to my room, which I usually only paid about $4 a night for or 500 drachmae. Once I had the 'pent-house' room on the roof. It was painted Pepto-Bismal pink and the walls had sole marks all over it with squished mosquitos. I liked that room though. From it I looked down on the street to the flower market in front of the Church. In those days, Aeolou St. was a busy thoroughfare but now it's all paved in a pedestrian mall. And much to my surprise, the old hotel has undergone a face-life and is quite spiffied up! I had to go back there today to take photos as I must put together a 'before and after' album. It's really quite incredible the improvements that haved been made in the city since the advent of the Olympics!

Aeolou is a shopping street, bustling with people and merchants hawking their wares. The tourists rarely venture forth here and for that reason it's more interesting to go there. Prices are moderate and there is no shortage of shops and entertaining sights to see. This is the 'real' Athens: a political protest by the National Bank with slogans broacast over a loudspeaker; a strolling group of gypsy musicians playing Latin music on clarinet, accordian, guitar and tamourine; the old hurdy-gurdy man in his yellow jacket and fedora cranking the handle on his antique laterna; a barefoot gypsy crone begging for alms.

The grand bazaar of Plaka runs off Aeolou St. Monastiraki is teaming with people (watch your purse here!), the narrow streets lined with tourist shops. Then, past Monastiraki Square where the Metro station is, there are miscellaneous shops and on weekends a huge Flea Market.
Today Patrick and I went from here up Adrianou St. - another shopping area. Here you can buy everything including the kitchen sink. I was fascinated by the pet shops with cages full of exotic birds (Cheeky's relatives were there!). We went up past the big Demokratika Agora Athena, the public market where there are aisles of fish and meat. The fish market has stalls displaying sea-food (fresh) of every species. The meat market has sanitary refrigerated display cases now. Back in the '80's there were sides of beef, whole skinned lambs and pigs and wild boar hanging on hooks. At night time, when the stalls closed, there are a couple of taverns and going to the "Meat Market" after midnight to enjoy a bowl of patsa (tripe soup) or souvlaki was a favorite place of our gang. People of all walks of life would appear there for late-night meals: from the raggle-taggle gypsies to women in expensive furs just come from the opera. I wonder if those tavernas still exist?

This is the Athens that I have such fond memories of and going back there brings to life all those long-forgotten stories which one of these days I really must write down. Athens is changing but somehow I doubt these parts of town will although I must admit the improvements have made everything look smart and appealing. (not trendy, for 'trendy' you go up to the expensive shopping areas of Kolonaki where the wealthier folk hang out.) This is Athens, the Athens I will always remember!


"Yet are thy skies as blue, thy crags as wild;
Sweet are thy groves, and verdant are thy fields,
Thine olive ripe as when Minerva smiled,
And still his honey'd wealth Hymettus yields;
There the blithe bee his fragrant fortress builds,
The freeborn wanderer of thy mountain-air;
Apollo still thy long, long summer gilds,
Still in his beam Medeli's marbles glare:
Art, Glory, Freedom fail, but Nature still is fair."

George, Lord Byron - from "Childe Harold's Pilgrimage"

VIEWS FROM THE BALCONY

This week I'm staying with my friend Dinaz in her big apartment in Plaka overlooking Dionysios Areopagitou, the pedestrian walk-way that skirts the Acropolis. I've known Dinaz since 1993. She's Parsi, from Bombay and was married to a Greek-Italian also from Bombay. She has a son, Andreas, who is now in his early 20's, and a part-time Norwegian husband who comes and goes but doesn't live here. From the first moment we met I knew she was the composite of my Persian princess, Drypetis from my novel and from that time on she was known by her friends here as "The Persian Princess". She lives in this enormous apartment on the edge of Plaka, actually house-size, full of elegant antique furniture she inherited from her father-in-law who used to be a sea captain, so the furnishings are mostly Oriental style. She works in tourism, a slave job, currently 12 hr days, 12 days with no break. Yesterday she said the boss brought in a priest to bless the office (which is a basement office) as he felt sorry for the staff. Economy is bad here and tourism is down, so jobs are at a minimum and she must work hard to make a living. (I might add that the pay is poor too, no overtime or benefits.)

I have been spending a lot of time on Dinaz's balcony enjoying the wrap-around view and the pots of flowering hisbiscus and other plants. That's where I sit to do my writing, eat breakfast and dinner (with Dinaz) and read Steven Pressfield's excellent, amazing book "Gates of Fire", about the Spartans. There are magnificent views from the balcony as well as the busy life that goes on down on the street below.

Looking east is a view of Mt. Hymmetos, and close by you can see the tall pillars of the Olympeion, the Temple of Olympian Zeus. It was the largest temple in Greece. It ook 700 years to complete and was considered to be a 'great victory of time' and 'the only temple on earth of a size adequate to the greatness of the god."

Behind it you can see the Stadium which occupies a natural valley between two hills. It was originally constructed in 330 BC for contests of Panathenaic Festivals. During Hadrian's time it was used for the baiting of wild beasts by gladiators. The stadium was reseated in marble by Herod Atticus for the Games of AD 144 and was completely restored in 1895 for the revival of the Olympic Games. (The Stadium was used for some events in the 2004 Olympics).

The wide pedestrian walk, Odos Dionyssiou Areopagitou, was named after St. Paul's first convert, Dionysius the Areopagite. It runs along from Syngrou Ave. skirting the Acropolis in a paved walkway to Thisseon. Looking west, up the Areopatigou, just one block away is the Acroppolis, Theatre of Dionysos and the Theatre of Herod Atticus (Herodian) and from Dinaz's rooftop there is a perfect view of the Parthenon. Adjacent from the corner of Odos Vironos (where I used to live) and Makgrianni St. is a building built in the 1800's that was once a military hospital but during the junta was used by military police for interrogations and torture. It was restored to its original Neo Classical elegance in the early '90's and now houses offices and a display museum for the Acropolis. The grounds have been excavated for the building of the new museum. Little progress has been made as each time they dig new artifacts are uncovered which must be examined by the archaeologists. They have expropriated shops and apartment blocks along the abutting streets including our favorite taverna "Socrates Prison" and several buildings on Hatzichristou St. across from the To Kati Allo. Our friend Graham's apartment is due to go down so he had only recently bought a new one in Stira on the island of Evvia and had looked forward to a relaxing and pleasant new life on the island, when he was tragically taken ill and suddenly passed away last March.

Farther down the road is the Hill of Muses (now called Philoppapou) and atop it is the monument in honour of C. Julius Antiochus Philoppapou, a prince of Comagene (Northern Syria) who was a benefactor of the city. The view from the top of this hill is on a level with the Parthenon. This was the site of the infamous "One Full Moon Night In Athens" story I wrote about our full moon picnic a few years ago which was interrupted because Anna Britt unknowinly ingested some ouzo containing a date-rape drug offered to her by a weird character we had invited to join us, and had to be carried off the hill and rushed to a hospital. (I can't look up there now without rememering that night!)

As I sit on the balcony my mind is full of memories. I think often of our good friends who have left us, whose spirits still haunt the Plaka and especially appear on Hatzichristou Street at the To Kati Alo Taverna where we spent so many pleasant hours talking over carafes of krasi.

Dinaz's apartment contains these memories too. Our much loved friends Graham and Roberto spent a lot of time there. Dinaz was their little angel who tended both of them when they were hospitalized. On the walls are their photographs and some of Robbie's paintings (his favorite subjects were the mangas (mafioso) and putanas (laides of the night).

As I sit looking out over the familiar views, I remember my life here, and fell I am still (and always will be ) a part of it. If I could I would spend half my time here, but economicially that's no longer possible because since the Euro and more recently the Olympics, Greece has become very expensive. But my heart will always b e here so long as I live, because Athens is my city just as mch as Vancouver is.

Zoe mou, sas agapo (My life, You I love)

"Remind me not, remind me not
of those beloved, those vanished hours,
When all my soul was given to thee;
Hours that may never be forgot,
Till time unnerves our vital powers,
And then I shall cease to be."
George, Lord Byron.

AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL RESEARCH FIELD TRIP

Let me take you on one of my archaeological research trips. Today (Tuesday) I went back to the Agora to check out setting details for the last chapter segments of my novel. I had realized the day Ingrid and I were there that I'd made some errors, so I wanted to correct them. My main focus was to locate the Bouletarian and the other civic buildings in the agora and to locate the Hill of Muses and Hill of the Nymphs to check out details and views from those locations.

The Agora ("assembly') was the place where the citizens of Athens met daily in the open air for all purposes of community life. It was a venue for the transactions of business and discussions of philosophy as well as the scene of athletic displays and dramatic competitions. Here traders rubbed shoulders with administrators, citizens with slaves.

I've visited the Agora scores of times since my very first trip to Greece almost 27 years ago. On that first day I left my hotel Tempi on Aeolou Street and let my feet take me where they would. I landed in the Agora, and had an instant deja vu moment when it seemed I could "see" it all as it had once been. It was such an overwhelming vision I burst into tears. Since the I have returned there often and each time I discover something new. Today I finally found the State Prison where Socrates was held!

I was in search of the old and new Bouletarions (which happen to be side-by-side) and also the Strategeion. These state administrative buildings figure in my novel, so I wanted to 'place' them correctly. The Bouleterion was where the Council of Athens met which included a 'presidential committee'. The Boule met here to prepare legislation for the Assembly.

The Strategeion was the headquarters of the ten elected generals (strategoi). These generals, one of each tribe, were elected every year. They were the supreme commanders of the army and navy and dominant magistrates in the political field. My characters, Phokion and Demetrios of Phaliron were both important strategoi of Athens and Phokion, who had been re-elected numerous times, was the leading military advisor of the city.

With the help of the "Blue Guide" which contains excellent historical details and maps, I easily located these buildings and noted the errors in setting I'd made, took photos to 'place' them in my mind for future reference. In my wanderings I also noted the House of Simon the Cobbler nearby, one of Socrate's hang-outs and I found the markings for the old road to Pireaus, which passes through the Melitedes Gate with Themostocles Walls on the right, and the south road leading to the Hill of Muses where Phokion would have walked to go to his home, passing through the South Gate. Up behind the Bouleterion, there was a new dig with some young archaeology students excavating a Geometric Period grave site.

I left the agora and walked back along through Monastiraki to Thission. Along the way I noted some new digs with more young archaeological students excavating. There's a beautiful cobbled pedestrian path all along this road which skirts the agora and Acropolis, passing below the Pnyx Hill. The Pnyx ("The Rocks") is a flat table of rock where the Assembly met. Here great statesmen, among them Themestocles, Pericles and Demosthenes held their audiences.

To the north of the Pnyx rises the Hill of the Nymphs. Now, on the top, stands the Observatory founded in 1842. There are traces of the Northern Long Wall nearby and a depression generally identified as the Barathron, the ancient Athenian place of execution.
Not far past this, with a spectacular view of the Parthenon atop the Acropolis, are the tree-clad slopes of the Hill of Muses, a hill that through history has played a strategic role in the fortunes of Athens. Now, on its summit stands the monument of Philopappos (AD 114-116) honouring a Syrian prince who had a distinguished career as an Athenian citizens and Roman praetor. In this area are the remains of a large number of ancient dwellings, so this is where I have placed Phokion's house. This quarter was entirely within the city walls and close to the agora. Plutarch has an excellent description of Phokion's house which I have used in my novel.

It was a hot day and after all my exploring I went to the To Kati Allo for a lunch of souvlaki and lemonade. I really missed Graham today when I went there as I found myself sitting in the seat he used to occupy. I was the only one there and Anna was glad to see me. She must miss her faithful customer too. Afterwards I went home for a long nap.

I want to try and spend a part of each day now writing notes for "Shadow" so that this summer I can try to complete it. My friends here are urging me on, and also encouraging me to write my "Life Under the Acropolis" stories. There are so many of them to record and I hope the memories haven't faded, although some of the details have and now my main source (Roberto) is gone. Hopefully though my collection of journals and letters will provide the missing details.

It's nice to be back into the 'zoe' (life) just like when I lived here. I am enjoying my stay at Dinaz's place and as she is working 12 hours days I am pleased to make dinner for her each night. Tomorrow evening Patrick arrives from his Central American adventures so for a few days there will be some excitement again and perhaps a few small field trips. Otherwise, I 'll be here writing away on the balcony.

INGRID'S LAST DAY: A Mini Tour of Syntagma and Plaka

"Maid of Athens, ere we part,
Give, oh give me back my heart!
Or, since that has left my breast,
Keep it now, and take the rest!
Hear my vow, before I go,
Zoe mou, sas agapo." George, Lord Byron.

Yesterday was Ingrid's last day in Athens, so we made one last tour around so I could show her "my Plaka". We hopped off the #15 trolley on Syngrou Ave. right by the lovely bust of Melina Mercouri that is placed in a small green space. She was one of the 'goddesses' of Greece, not only famous as a movie star (Never On Sunday) but also as an eminent cultural crusader and supporter of women's rights in Greece. At the time of her death she was the Minister of Culture. She was highly esteemed and revered. I'll never forget the day I was sitting in Plaka Square with my friends and she breezed through, all dressed in white, with her entourage. A beautiful, gracious woman. When her body was returned to Athens after her death of cancer in N.Y., the road from the airport was lined with people holding candles. The whole of the country wept for her.

Across from the statue of Melina, is the impressive Hadrian's Arch. The Roman Emperor Hadrian had a great affection for Athens and embellished the city with many monuments. The Arch of Hadrian was erected in AD 132 probably to commemorate the consecration of the Temple of Olympian Zeus. It was a dividing point between the ancient Greek city and the Roman city. The inscription of the frieze of the N.W. side is "This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus." On the eastern side it states: "This is the city of Hadrian, not Theseus."

Behind the Arch stands the imposing remaining columns of the Temple of Olympian Zeus. The building of the Temple began in the 6th C. B.C. but it took over 700 years to complete it and this was accomplished by Hadrian in AD 131. Only fifteen of the original 104 immense Corinthian columns remain. Each was 17 m. high with a base diameter of 1.7 m.) It was a perfect counter-balance to the nearby Parthenon high on the Acropolis hill.

Just across the road is a beautiful statue of Lord Byron being comforted by the angelic figure of a woman representing Greece. He, along with other aristocratic young men who included Shelly, Goethe, Schiller, Victor Hugo and Alfred de Musset, arrived in Greece during the Turkish occupation willing to fight to liberate the Greeks. Byron died in the town of Messalongi in Jan. 1824 of pneumonia. He became a Greek national hero. I used to live on "Byron Street" (Vironos) in the Plaka, just down the road from where there was a monastery where he often stayed, by the monument of Lysikrates, the last remaining tripod monument awarded to a choir for performing at the ancient theatre of Dionysos nearby. "Shelly Street" runs off of Vironos. And this was the actor's part of town in the ancient days and believe me, the scene of many a drama during the days we all hung out at the infmous "Dirty Corner."

We walked up the boulevard into the Zappeion Gardens. Here is the possible site of Aristotele's Lyceum. Although it is not marked as so, there are some ruins there and some marble chairs - possibly Roman period. The philosopher had studied at Plato's Academny where he remained for 20 years, til after Plato's death. Some years after leaving the Academy due to a disagreement, he returned to Athens to found a rival institution, The Lyceum, which was a school of Peripatetitcs (the walking philosophers) some of whom feature in my novel. (I forgot to mention in an earlier post that on the way to and from Bus Depot A, going to the islands, we passed the park that was the site of Plato's Academy. There are some ruins there and a bust of the philosopher.)

The Zappeion is a beautiful Neo-Classical building built in the 1870's with money donated by a wealthy Greek-Romanian benefactor. It's used for exhibitions. Next to the Zappeion are the National Gardens, a delightful shady refuge from the bustling crowds and din of traffic on the downtown avenues. They were formerly the royal gardens designed by Queen Amalia. The gardens contain sub tropical trees, ornamental ponds with water-fowl, and a botanical museum.

Right across from the Gardens is the well-known Plateia Syntagmatos (Syntagma Square) the main city square and scene of many protest gatherings as well as a nice place to lounge in the shade sheltered from the busy avenues. Flanking it on the east side is the former royal palace (til 1935 when the royalty moved to another residence nearby). Now it's the parliament buildings. It is guarded by the evzones - National Guards who get their name traditionally from the village of Evzone in Macedonia. Their uniform, short pleated kilts (white for special days) and pom-pom clogs are based on the attire worn by the klephts, mountain people who were fierce partisans in the battles against the Turks in the War of Independance. One day Ingrid and I were lucky enough to catch the changing of the guards, which is always fun to watch. They do a hop-skip, slow-motion kind of dance step which must require excellent muscle tone. (I once knew a former Evzone and he said he had long-lasting knee problems from having served as a guard).

On the north side of the Square is the grandest of Athen's hotels, the Hotel Grand Bretagne, built in 1862 and refurbished for the Olympic Games. It was originally a sixty room mansion used to accomodate visiting dignitaries and was convereted to a hotel in 1872 to house guests of the royalty and eminent politicians. During WWII, the Nazi's made it their headquartrers. This hotel was once the scene of an attempt to blow up British prime minister Winston Churchill on Christmas Eve 1944 when he was in Athens.

From there, on to the Web Cafe, (my favorite hang-out), and then a delicious concoction of passion fruit juice and espresso coffee at the Floka Espresso Cafe which has the most amazing toilet I've ever seen! (side note: the public bathrooms all over Greece have undergone major beautifying, but this one takes the prize! ) It has a gadget that santizes the bowl and toilet seat. I was amazed, on rising from the throne, to see the seat begin to spin around and a scubbing gadget comes down to cleanse it. It was quite a phenomena! I wonder if they'll ever get those in Vancouver? Just goes to show you some of the amazing affects and benefits the Olympic Games had on this old city!

Now we went on to the Plaka, my old home turf for so many years! The Plaka Square was mobbed with the first wave of tourists (mostly American). On a side street I had to show Ingrid this curious little 'garden' of graffitti and props built by a character known as Tim-Tom-Teddy. He was a friend of Robbies and my friend Lilian knows him, says he is an eccentric Englishman who does odd jobs for the Church so they have given him this 'hovel' to live in. He has all sorts of junk decorated up, such as an old jeep (A "Taliban Taxi') and bits of pieces of junk and mannikens, most of which have Anti-Bush slogans or sayings on them. As we were observing this latest display some American tourist ladies came by and were obviously quite aghast! (Did I mention how anti-Bush the Greeks are?)

Through the busy Square which is lined with expensive tavernas (we used to hang out there in the '80's before the white table clothes and pricey menus) and up through the narrow marble-paved streets to the little settlement of Anafiotika. This is a replica of a small island village, built years ago by the stonemasons of a tiny Cycladian island, Anafi who came to help rebuild the city after the War of Independance. The little whitewashed cube-style houses are built under the brow of the North flank of the Acropolis. It's a beautiful spot, often overlooked by tourists, and one of my most favorite places in Plaka. The narrow paths wind up the hill. Painted olive oil tins and small garden plots brim with a profusion of flowers. Some of the lanes are barely an arm's width and some even narrower. Dozens of tame and feral cats lounge in the sun along the paths. I had a friend (now passed away) who lived in Anafiotika and I stayed in his house several times on my early trips to Athens. My friend Corinne and her daughter Tay lived there with George for some time.
Sadly, he died several years ago and the house was abandoned last time I came to Athens. This time I notice the shutters had been freshly painted and there were geraniums in a pot outside the padlocked door so perhaps some family member has taken possession of it.

Down the hill from Anafiotika we stop to visit the ancient Theatre of Dionysos. The theatre was originally built in the 6th century BC with wooden tiers and in the 4th C. BC the tiers were replaced with Pireaus limestone. Theatre life was important in Athenian life and here all the dramas of writers such as Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides were performend along with the bady comedies of Aristophanes. The theatre had a seating capacity of 17,000 spread over 65 tiers of seats of which about twenty survive. Except for the front row, the seats were occupied by ordinary citizens (women were confiend to the back row!) The front row of 67 throne seats built of Penetic marble were rerserved for festival officials and important priests. Some of them have names carved on them and you can see the holes where poles held up canopies to shade them from the sun. The grandest throne seat in the centre was reserved the the Priest of Dionysos.

I was impressed to see more work has been done on the site including a paved pathway that leads on up to the Acropolis. You can now obtain a ticket that includes all the sites, including the theatre, Acropolis and Agora however I am lucky to have a site pass because of my research which was provided by the Finnish Institute some years ago.

After our mini tour, we walked over to Hatzichristou Street, just outside Plaka, and sat awhile at the To Kati Allo Taverna enjoying some cold Myro beer and a chat with Anna and Dino. Later that evening all of us went there for dinner, treated by Ingrid. (Christina, Daniella, Dinaz, Ingrid and I). Then Ingrid and I went to spend the night with Dinaz as it was closer to reach the airport bus at 4 .a.m from her apartment in Plaka. I'll be staying there this week, anticipating the arrival of our friend Patrick from Central America on Wednesday night.

Meanwhile, I was sorry to say good bye to my travel companion and I know Ingrid was sad to leave. But we will no doubt have lots of time to rehash our adventures when I get home after two weeks.

"Maid of Athens! I am gone:
Think of me, sweet! When alone,
Though I fly to (Istanbul) Vancouver
Athens holds my heart and soul:
Can I cease to love thee? No!
Zoe mou, sas agapo." Byron

TRAVELLING MUSIC

I always find that a good way to pass the time while travelling on bus, train or plane, is to listen to good music. I usually choose my favorites from my CD collection and take those along with me. On the plane flying over to Europe I listened to Cuban music Carenas, "Tradicional"
and Greek music, Alexiou Haris "Fili Mou".

Yesterday on the long bus trip home from the Ionian Islands, I listened to Cuban trumpet virtuoso Arturo Sandoval, "Trumpet Revolution" in particular, his rendition of "Concerto in B Major - first movement" This magnificent piece of music fit in perfectly with the panorama of scenery passing by and I played it again and again.

We had left Nidri on the 10 a.m. local bus for the town of Lefkadas (Lefkas) and had a few hours to lounge around before the 12.30 bus for Athens. Lefkada is mainly a yachting town and the harbour was chock full of yachts. As I described in my last blog, the island at this point is joined to the mainland by a long causeway making it possible to get back to Athens by bus instead of ferry.

We walked around the town a little and noted the unusual structure of the houses. As Lefkada has been hit by a couple of big quakes in the past, the worst one bringing down the town in 1948, they have constructed their buildings using corrogated steel which gives them an unusual appearance. This seemed to work, as the big quake in 1953 that rocked the Ionian Islands did little damage to the town.

The bus left promptly, as all Greek buses generally do. It was an old bus, so a little cramped, but later on we were able to secure separate seats and stretch out a little. The route takes you across the causeway and down the western coast of Greek along the sea coast until it cuts inlands through the farmlands and mountains. At one point the road cut through a narrow gorge with high rocky cliffs on each side. We eventually got to the Gulf of Corinth, passing nearby Messalonghi where Byron died as he waited to join the Greeks partisans against the invading Turks. (I'm hoping to make a trip there some time in the next two weeks).

In the past, the bus usually had to go on a little ferry across the Gulf to Patras, but since the Olympics, they've built and impressive bridge over the Gulf so we got a closeup look at this fantastic structure. It cuts off quite a lot of time from the journey. So once across we drove along the Gulf, past the beach resorts and ancient Corinth and on down the west coast of Attica to Athens. The trip was 7 hours in all, then another hour on bus and trolley to Christina's house.
We got home about 8.30 last night, quite exhausted from our travels.

When Christina and Dani got home from their day's outings, we sat in the courtyard for one last evening of talk, drinking krasi and eating mezedes. I was so tired I actually fell asleep on my chair! So off we went to bed and had a good long rest.

Today is Ingrid's last day here and tonight we are moving over to Dinaz's house in Plaka as it's closer to the airport bus stop. We're all going to the To Kati Allo Taverna tonight for a farewell dinner. Ingrid is sad to leave. I 'm sad to see her go. And I'll write more blog tomorrow telling about our last day in Athens together. We've had such a fine time touring together!

ISLANDS IN THE SUN #3: LEFKADA

Scorpios Island, home of the Onasis family

"Men have to construct their own destiny." Aristoteles Sokrates Onasis 1906-1979

We've been on the island of Lefkada since yesterday enjoying some relaxation. Lefkada is the fourth largest Ionian islands. In ancient times it was joined to the mainland by a narrow isthmus until the occupying Corinthians dug a canal in the 8th century B.C. Now the 25 mile strait is spanned from the mainland by a causeway at the town of Lefkada (Lefkas). The island lies north of Kefalonia. We intended to reach the southern port of Vassiliki, but couldn't make the right ferry connection, so ended up at the mid-eastern port of Nidri (Nydri. pronounced Needree)
The island is mountainous with several peaks over 1000 metres. It's fertile and has cotton fields, olive groves, vineyards and fir and pine forests. The Lefkadians are extremely proud of their island and some of the older women still wear traditional costumes.

The little fishing port of Vassiliki, which I visited on my first trip here 4 years ago, is one of the best wind-surfing locations in Europe. The west coast of Lefkada has excellent beaches including Porto Katsiki and Egremeni (reached by caiques or excursion boats). It was on the beach of Egremeni, under the sheer high limestone cliffs where the poet Sappho lept to her death, that I first conceived my idea of "House of the Muses", the play I'm working on about her life.
There used to be a sanctuary to Apollo on the western promontory of Cape Lefkatas and one for Aphrodite near the spot where Sappho lept off. I had hoped to return there this time to see if the Muse would speak to me again. No such luck. Well, at least we are in Homer's territory, not far from Odysseus' kingdom of Ithaka. In fact, one of the old archaeologists insisted that Lefkada, not Ithaka, was Odysseus home.

Lefkada has 10 satellite islets off-shore which include Meganisis, Kalamos, Kastos, Madouri (a private island, once home of the Greek poet Aristoteles Valaorites who died there in 1879)
Skorpidi, Skorpios (the private island owned by the Onasis family/foundation: only one of the family surives and that is young Athena who lives with her French father and rarely comes to Greece, much to the chagrin of the Foundation and Greeks.) The other islets are Thelia, Petalou and Kythros. Ferries and private launches or caiques and excursion boats visit these islets and there are many interesting tours around. Last trip I went around Skorpios and we were permitted to land at one of the small beaches there to swim. (I wrote a story called "Swimming with the Rich and Famous" about that trip.)

We arrived at the pretty little port of Nidri yesterday noon and found an excellent studio apartment with all the amenities to rent for 35 Euro a night, owned by a Greek/Canadian family from Winipeg. Today I spent most of the afternoon swimming and lounging at the pool until the wind came up and it clouded over, turning quite chilly. Nidri was once a sleepy little fishing village, built by a Bay that scoops in between low tree-covered mountains. It's a popular port for yachts as well as fishermen and is a busy tourist resort, though fortunately it's not too crowded at this time of year so we are enjoying the tranquility.

We've been spending a lot of time just sitting on the balcony enjoying the beautiful panoramic view of the Bay and outer islets (including Skorpios) and watching the tourists pass to and fro below on the sea walk. We went for a walk last night up to the one end of the sea walk and considered renting bikes today as it's pefect cycling area - flat! There's an impressive statue of Aristotle Onassis on the quay from which I took the quote. Today we cruised the one main street, did our tourist thing, bought a few trinkets, and tonight went for pizza and wine. We both regret that we must leave here tomorrow to return to Athens.

We're catching an early bus up to Lefkada town which will take us down the mainland coast and across to the north Peloponnese, new sights for Ingrid to see. I'll write a new blog after our return to describe the last part of our journey together.

CRUISING

Vathi, Ithaka

It's nearly 9 p.m. on Thursday evening and we arrived here on Lefkada Island a couple of hours ago. I'm posting a few odds and ends about our last day/evening on Kefalonia and the cruise over here to Lefkada.

I started making some notes this morning while we were waiting for our ferry at Fiskardo and I was sitting at a taverna looking out over Homer's wine-dark sea toward the nearby green mountains of Ithaka. We were sorry we couldn't make it over to Odysseus' island but time wouldn't permit it. Then we discovered that our bus from Argostoli wasn't going to make the right connection with the ferry to Vassiliki, Lefkada so we had to wait around til 4.30 to get a different ferry going to another port. This means we won't be able to get to that lovely beach below Sappho's Leap around Cape Doukos as we are now in another village on the east side of Lefkada, opposite Onassis island, Skorpios. And it's too far away to get a boat around to Sappho's Leap. So we will stay put here and enjoy the tranquility.

We spent a lazy afternoon sipping rose wine and eating grilled octopus at Elis sea-side taverna before catching the ferry for Nydri, a small fishing village which is now a busy tourist resort and yacht harbour. I'll write more about it later. The trip over was a bit choppy. There's been a wind all day and it's been cooler. I'd hoped to spot dolphins, as the last time I was cruising around these waters there were many of them chasing the boat and performing for the passengers. Perhaps we'll see some yet!

There were some things I had forgotten to write about Kefalonia, mainly the connection with poets and artists. It was a favorite island of Lord Byron. I wanted to try and get to the village where he often stayed as I understand there is a plaque on the house he lived in. However, we couldn't do everything and unfortunately, the bus tour didn't take us there.

The island has also been a mecca for painters and the other day we saw some paintings by Edward Lear who often came there to paint the lovely old Venetian buildings and beautiful scenery. At the same gallery (which, by the way, was the Focas gallery -- which may be a connection with Iannis Focas: Juan de Fuca's family) we saw an outstanding display of photos of 'before' and 'after' Argostolis. The devastation of the '53 quake was incredible!

We got up early today for the hour bus ride along the winding coast road to Fiscardo. The road is high above the sea cliffs, with sheer cliffs dropping into the sea on one side and rising up in stone walls on the other, except for passages where you are cutting through green hillsides and villages. Quite incredible how the drivers maneuvre the buses around those hair-pin curves. A white-knuckle ride for those who are faint-hearted, for sure! Spectacular scenery though. And today the sea was patched with various colours of aqua and teal blue and turquoise.

As I said, we hung around Fiskardo (not an unpleasant way to spend the day) waiting for the little ferry "Captain Aristidis" to take us on the 2 hr. cruise to Nydri (6 euros)
We were impressed with the port immediately. It curves into a deep bay with green tree-covered mountains on each side. It took us about 10 minutes to find an excellent pension (studios) just down the road. We have a third floor suite with a balcony that overlooks the Bay.
There is a swimming pool too! (yay!) and the suite has all amenities. For only 35 Euro! It sure pays to look for pensions instead of hotels and in many cases they are much nicer as you have more of the comforts of home. It turns out the woman who runs this for her Greek/Can parents was born and raised in Winnipeg! So we feel right at home, that's for sure, and we'll stay here til Saturday when we catch a bus up to Lefkada town and back down the mainland to Athens.

Unfortunately we couldn't get to Ithaka and we can't make it to Sappho's Leap as we couldn't get that ferry to Vassilikis. That's disappointing. I'd so hoped to conjur the Muse again while here. But Homer's spirit is around. We passed close to Ithaka today and I took some good photos of it. Actually, one of the old German archaologists insisted that Lefkada was actually the site of Odysseus' Bronze Age kingdom. So we're close enough.

ISLANDS IN THE SUN #2: KEFALONIA: Capt. Corelli's Island

Plateia Gialos, Kefalonia

This is the island where the writer Louis de Berniere wrote his novel Captain Corelli's Mandolin.
This last time I was here, they were filming the movie over near the town of Sami and had rebuilt a whole village to resemble what Argostoli used to be like before the 1953 quake.

You might also know that it's Juan de Fuca's island. (read my published story about this on
http://www.magiccarpetjournals.com/ In fact, the first time I came here it was because I'd read about a regatta that was being held here in his honour. His Greek name was Iannis Focas, and he went to sea for the Spanish king, and was sent to find the Northwest Passage. So there is a real B.C. connection here and if you saw the island, the green forested mountains, you'd see some similarities.

Kefalonia is the largest of the 7 Ionian Islands off the west coast of Greece. It is an island of rugged mountains, uniqur fir forests, many wild flowers and scented herbs and beautiful beaches. All the island towns were reduced to rubble in 1953 after a major earthquake. Very few of the original buidings were left standing. The beautiful Venetian architectures was destroyed so the towns have mostly been rebuilt. Once Argostoli was a town of gracious Venetian buildings, an opera house and splendid mansions. Now it's a lively,modern port set on a peninsula with a cobbled walk along the sea and an impressive shopping area, with a marble-paved pedestrian mall.

We arrived here on Monday and found ourselves a nice hotel by the sea. The weather has been perfect for sightseeing, not too hot, some cloudy periods and some refreshing wind to keep things cooled down. On Tuesday we went to the beautiful Platis Gialos Beach for a swim and sun tanning. The surf was a bit too high for swimming but it is so lovely, all sandy with turquoise water. We laid on the sun cots for a few hours then caught the bus back to Argostoli. Later we took a taxi out to the Fenari Lighthouse. It is a Venetian style lighthouse built by the British in 1853, later destroyed in the quake and rebuilt exactly as before. We arrived there in time for sunset and got some good photos. Right up the hill behind the shore is the place where there is a memorial for the Acqui Division, the regiment of Italian soldiers who were gunned down execution style by the Nazis after they refused to join the Germans when Italy had ceded defeat to the Allies. This was part of the Captain Corelli story that was true. Over 10,000 soliders were killed. The first time I went up to see the monument, I came down later and sat by the Fenari at sunset listening to Andreas Bocelli sing "Time to say Goodbye". It was a moving moment and brought me to tears.

Ingrid and I walked along the sea road to this very nice taverna where once Anna Britt and I had gone for lunch. We had a delicious dinner there, then walked back to Argosoli in the dark, along the oleander-lined path into town.

This morning we were up early to meet the tour bus for a tour of the entire island. This island is so big you would never feel island-bound. There are hundreds of village tucked away inthe mountains and along the shore as well as the resort towns, and larger towns like Sami, Argostoli, Luxouri (across the Bay and accessibly by a frequent ferry service) and Fiskardo in the north.

The tour started at a famous underground stream called the Katovothres where there is a big mill wheel. Some years ago geologists explored the source of this stream and discovered it goes under the sea (the sea bed was disturbed by the quake and the water table was disturbed) and comes out across on the other side of the island where it pours into the sea. Quite a phenomenon!

The bus goes along the winding mountain roads overlooking the sparkling turquoise sea where the steep cliffs run down to the sea. There are groves of eucalyptus and many deciduous trees as well as the special firs that grow on Mt. Ainos, the highest peak at 1620 meters. There are many types of flora and fauna on the island including some almost extinct wild horses that roam on Mt Ainos.

The island has a long history dating back to prehistoric times, and during the Mycenean civilization it was heavily populated. (It was part of Odysseus' kingdom). In 200 BC it was a Roman naval base; later it belonged to Byzantine Empired and was once of the defences on the coast f the Mediterranean against pirates from North Africa. The Ottoman Turks ruled here breifly in the 1400's and in 1809 the British occupied Kefalonia and it became one of the protectorates.

The oldest village is Assos. A1593 Venetian castle was built on the promontory there to protect the village from pirates. Near Assos is one of the finest beaches in Europe, Myrto Beach, brilliant shades of blues and white sand, accessible by a long winding road down from the highway.

We stopped at the lovely fishing village of Fiskardo on the north end of the island. Fiskardo was the only village that was not destroyed in the earthquake and although it's dolled up for the tourists, there are some beautiful old buildings there and a yacht harbour inviting sailors from all around the Mediterranean to anchor there. The town was named for Roberto Fiscard, a Norman raider (pirate) who died on his ship off-shore.

From Fiscardo, with a lunch stop along the way, the bus tour continued down the length of the island, stopping at the spectacular Melissani Lake, which is a subterranean sea-water lake in a Cave (Mellisini is named after a nymph so this is The Nymph's Cave. We went into it on little boats. The sun shines through the opening in the cave's ceiling lighting the water's many shades of blue and reflecting up the walls that are hung with stalactites. I thought it was even more beautiful than the Blue Grotton on the Isle of Capri.

Then we went to the Drogoati Cave, which has 120 steps down into the caverns. It was first discovered in the 1800's and opened to the public in 1963. One of the chambers is used for the occasional concert. Mikis Theodorakis and Maria Callas have both performed there. We headed down the many steps and as we entered the cold, damp cavern it became very slippery. I took off my sandals but it was even like slick ice under my bare feet. So rather than risk a nasty fall, we only went as far as the first entrance then returned up the stairs. All this hiking and climbing is sure to make us fit (I hope) and is a real test of our endurance and cardio!

The rest of the trip was around by some of the lovely beach resorts, then back to Argostoli.
We've just been out shopping. I bought a CD of Kefalonian cantata music and lots of goodies for my apartment. Tomorrow we are heading up to Fiskardo to get the ferry over to Lefkada Island. Once we are settled there on Friday I'll post another island blog.

NOTES ALONG THE WAY

Argostoli, KEFALONIA

We just got here yesterday so these are just some notes from along the way going back to my last blog. Tomorrow, after we've toured around a bit, I'll write about this island which is one of my favourites (my third time here).

Saturday was an interesting day, just browsing around Athens and then in the evening we attended a special event at Daniella's school.

I used to babysit Daniella (Christina's daughter) when she was still in her baby-tender scooting around the courtyard, not walking or talking yet. When I started to sit with her, it was to help her along as she was very tiny and a bit slow to develop. She's Swedish/Greek by birth and Christina is a single mom. Daniella had a confusion of languages to deal with just at the time a child is first learning to talk: Swedish mother who speaks Swedish, English and Greek to her, German and Greek 'aunties' and another babysitter who spoke Arabic (Syrian). So
when I took over it was mainly to help her develop her English speech. We had many fun times in the courtyard, that wee one and me, and on long walks around Koukaki, Philoppapou and the National Gardens. Once she finally started taking her first steps, you couldn't keep up with her. She used to insist on pushing the stroller and then walking ahead, very independant little kidlet.
And I'll never forget the day she first spoke in English! It was such a surprise. It had taken her awhile to process it all and usually she was silent as a clam (a stubborn little mite too!) but once she started talking she was full of words.

Now Daniella is a gorgeous, tall young lady of nine years. She goes to a private school for which her single Mom has to pay a good price, but she's sure of getting a good education. And Christina also sends her to Swedish school. So Daniella is fluent in Greek, Swedish and English too. She and her mother are also ardent about sports. She can swim like a dolphin and also skis and on Sunday she and her mom ran in a marathon for Ecology Day. (They ran around 4 kms).
She was anxious for us to come to her school performance on Saturday so of course we wouldn't miss that for the world!

From ancient times, the Greeks have always been keen on sports and the training of children (boys and youths) from an early age was an important part of their lives. At lot of their life was centered around the gymnasium where they were trained from a very early age, first in the foot-race and later in wrestling, discus, and other sports. Atheletes were highly esteemed in ancient Greece. (It happens that a recent segment of my novel deals with the child atheletes so I found it interesting to see the kids perform at Dani's school)

The performance at Daniella's school was gymnastics, sports and folk dancing.
The children ranged from primary to junior high school. Daniella is in grade four. Her group was performing gymnastics, and her trainer is a beautiful young lady who won the gymnast's gold medal at the Olympics for Greece. What an honour to have such a proficient athlete as a coach! And it was quite thrilling to see what the children performed. The youngest children did a performance with balls and hoops and the older girls did more advanced gymnastics. It was interesting to see how attentive the children were, how focused and how they obviously adored their coaches and trainers.

There were performances of various basketball, soccer and volleyball skills by different age groups. All the children have proper school gym wear. The soccer, basketball and volley ball players were red and white shorts and shirt with their names and number on the back, like professional players. The gymnasts have black stretch pants and red t-shirts with the school logo in white. Very smart in appearance.

We were fascinated by the performances, all on the outdoor gym court on a warm evening. Many parents and family members in attendance shouting "Bravo!" and clapping. I felt so proud of Daniella. She's almost like a surrogate granddaughter to me. A real sweetie! And she looked so 'professional', a shining star, so tall and beautiful!

At the end of the sports and gymnastics we were treated to some Greek dancing by the older girls, dressed in white shirts and black trousers and carrying white hankies which are part of the sirtaki and hazpatiko dances. Everyone claps along with the music and it was great fun!

Afterwards we treated Daniella and Christina to dinner at the garden taverna. We had an early rising Monday to get the bus to Kefalonia. It's a trolley/bus trip from Koukaki where Christina lives to the bus terminal (You'll remember that, Susan!) but we got there in good time and boarded the bus at 8.45. The bus goes past the Corinthian canal, and along near Acrocorinth mountain and the site of ancient Corinth, to Patras (in the Peloponnese) where you board a ferry. The trip takes about 8 hours total to arrive at Argostoli, Kefalonia. We got here late afternoon yesterday and found ourselves a pretty good hotel with a view of the bay for just 40 Euros double (around $25 a piece). We'll stay here til Thursday then go on to Lefkada. Decided we'd have to miss Ithaka as there just won't be enough time to do it all as we stayed in Athens a day longer than originally planned in order to see the sports show.

We went out for a nice meal last night at a taverna near the bay. My favourite: salt cod and skourdalia (garlic potatoe sauce) then tucked in early. Imagine me going to bed at 10 pm!!
But we were mighty tired from all our travels and had an excellent sleep. So today we're just browsing around the town, going to the beach and taking it easy.

I'll be posting a detailed blog about Kefalonia before we leave here so stay tuned.....

ISLANDS IN THE SUN: #1 HYDRA

Hydra (prounounced ee-dra) is one of the Saronic Gulf Islands off the south-east coast of the Peloponnese. It was popular in the 50's with movie makers (Boy on a Dolphin) and in the 60's and 70's with many artists and writers. Leonard Cohen lived there during this time, so did Joannie Mitchell.

The name "Hydra" suggests "water" and perhaps once this rocky isle was covered with forests, but now it's virtually barren and has to import water from the Peloponnese.

The gracious white and pastel stone mansions of the town are stacked up on the rocky hillside that surround the fine natural harb our. One unique feature of this island is the lack of cars and motorbikes. Except for snitationa dn construction vehicles, the only means of trasport is by donkey and mule and there are hundreds of them, many standing patiently at the dock-side waiting to transport passengers up the hill to the hotels and pensiones. Ingrid and I opted to go by foot to explore around the back stgreets of town, away from the hordes of tourists on the quay. Most of the action on Hydra is centered around the waterfront cafes and shops, so the little cobbled back streets that wind in a maze, some only an arm's length wide, are virtually deserted making it a joy to explore. It's cheaper to eat at the tavernas away from the port and we enjoyed lunch atone with pretty lue chairs and amarine decor, before wandering around to snap photos. The town is picturesque and a delightful place to brose even though it's very touristic.

We walked along the cobbled path by the sea to the next village, Vlykos. I was looking for the sea-side taverna were sevenarl years ago my Aunt Edith, cousin Sean and Shoon a young friend from Singapore had lunch. It was closed, so we went to another taverna up above it overlooking the sparkling sea. The weather was perfect, just ot enough with a cooling breeze. We enjoyed a lazy day wandering at our leisure, checking out the tourist shops (all expensive) and people-watching. We kept wondering exactly where Leonard used to live. No doubt up on the hillside.

Some historical facts = During the Ottoman occupation of Greece, from the 1400's, Hydra was ignored by the Turks, so many Greeks from the Peloponnese settled here. Later the population was boosted with an influx of Albanians. (There's a lot of there here now too as apparantly they are very good stone masons and most of the houses on Hydra are made from stone, as are the stone-paved streets) Hydra had no agriculture, so it became a boat-building centre and by the 19th C, had a great ,maritime power. Wealthy shipping merchants built most of the grand old buildinggs and it became a fashionable resort for Greek socialites.

The Hydriotes made a fortune by running the British blockade of French ports during the Napoleonic Wars and made a major contribution to the Greek War of Independance.

We had a lovely day there before boarding the sleek (expensive) high-speed "Euro-fast) ferry back to Pireaus, a two-hour trip that was almost like being on board an airliner except far more comfortable!

More historical notes: We stopped briefly at the island of Poros on our way to Hydra. It's main port is pretty, with white and beige houses stacked up the hillside. This is the island where the orator Demosthenes hid out at the Temple of Poseidon when the Macedonians were pursuing him. (mentioned in my blog about Delphi). He committed suicide here in 322 BC. Other than that, I don't believe the island has any remarkable history.

Tomorrow we're off to the Ionian Islands: Kefalonia, Ithaka and Lefkada. So as soon as I find another web cafe I'll post another island adventure.

DELPHI: Consulting the Oracle

" And thence he (Apollo) came
unto this land of Parnassus
and at his side, with awe revering him
were the children of Hephaestus, preparing the way
and taming the land that once was wilderness
and he was received with honour
by all the people and Delphos, their chieftain-king." Eumenidis

We took a day trip to Delphi yesterday. I've been there many times before, and recall the very first time in 1982, when I went up with a Greek friend, Kos. We arrived at night and took our sleeping bags down on the mountainside. The sky was ablaze with stars, meteorites falling, and a big full moon. Delphi's magic was everywhere. In the morning, when we woke, we were sleeping right near the edge of the deep gorge with a spectacular view of the Corinithian Gulf and the far-away little port of Itea.

On another visit, in '93 I went there with my friend Sylvie. I was sitting on the edge of the path that leads up to the stadium, writing in my journal. When I looked up, I saw HIM coming down the path with his companions. Alexander. Clear as if he was really there. That bright lions mane of hair, wearing a robin's egg blue mantle, his head turned as he laughed and spoke to his friends. He would have been about 18, and just as he'd been after the Battle of Chaironea when he went to Delphi to consult the oracle.

There's been other memorable trips too and especially the ones where I take a friend who has never been there. I'm so sorry Suzaki missed out on it. Maybe another time.

It's the most Sacred site in Greece and was known in antiquity as the 'naval of the earth'.

The oracle at Delphi probably originated during early Mycenaean times when the earth goddes Gaia was worshipped. Later it became a sanctuary of Themis, later Demeter and then Poseidon, but by the end of the Mycenaean peior, Apollo had replaced the other dieties.

Delphi reached its height in the 4th C B.C. when multitudes of pilgrims bearing expensive votive gifts came to ask advice of its oracle. The Delphic oracle was the most powerful in Greece. She was a priestess over 50 yrs of age who sat on a tripod at the entrance to a chasm which emitted vaporous fumes. As she inhaled them, they induced hallucinations and her utterances were translated into verse by a priest, in answer to pilgrim's questions.

There were several Sacred Wars as various city states fought for control. The Third Sacred War, precipatated between Thebes and the district of Phocis in 356 BC was a chance of Philip II of Macedon to exert power by acting as arbitrator. He ended the conflict but by 339 war broke out again and Philip took the opportunity to bring his formidable army into Greece and defeated a combiined army of Athenians, Thebans and their allies at the Battle of Charionea, thus achieving his goal for control of Greece.

(I have visited the wide plain of Chaironea where this battle was fought. There's a huge stone lion monument there honouring the Theban dead: Alexander, (age 18) leading the right flank of Macedonian cavalry, anhiatlated the 700 man Theben Sacred Band who fought together in pairs to the death. The Athenian orator, Desmothenes was at this battle but beat a cowardly retreat to Athens where he continued his tirades and published pamphlets against the Macedonians until Alexander's time when he was tracked down on the island of Poros and killed.)

Ingrid and I arrived just in time to catch the last half-hour of the museum where I got to see my two favorite pieces of sculpture: the beautiful marble statue of Antinoos, beloved of Hadrian who drowned in the Nile and was deified. And the fabulous bronze charioteer commemorating a victory in the Pythian Games 4788 or 474 BC (the games were held every four years like the Olympics).

We walked up to the stadium and I swear the path was steeper and the way longer than before!
But we made it and it's worth the effort as it is the best preserved stadium in Greece.

Just as we came down out of the Sacred site, Zeus started rumbling by with his thunder chariot and lightening bolts. By the time we got back into the town it was raining buckets so we had to duck into a shop. In minutes the roadway was ankle deep in a raging torrent. We got soaked, and hid out in a cafe eating pizza while we waited for the bus. We following the storm all the way back to Athens and were two drowned rats by the time we reached home.

Today we went to the Friday street market in Koukaki and later to the Cycladic Museum. Tonight is the big Gemini birthday party at the garden taverna. And tomorrow, a sea cruise to Hydra to check out Leonard Cohen's old haunts.

RECOLLECTIONS OF MY FORMER LIFE

Roberto and me

"Know thyself." Socrates

It's hard for me to describe how I feel when I return to Athens. It has become so much part of my life, a special part of me, and the minute I arrive here I feel myself transformed.

On the plane, as we neared Greece, and as I anticipated the dinner we'd have that night at the To Kati Allo, I was suddenly overcome with a deep sense of grief, seeing in my mind's eye an image of my friend Graham, hearing his usual cheery "Hello, Ruthie!" And the realization struck that he wouldn't be there at the taverna to greet me as he has always been. That he, along with Roberto and Kaye and many others of the old ex-pat gang have left us forever. When I did go to the taverna later that evening, the vacancy was noticable and the sense of sadness prevailed. We drank a toast to the absent ones, and spoke about them, their presence always hovering near.

It's amazing how, as soon as I hear the language I remember it, and I managed to carry on some conversation with Anna, the owner of the TKA. She was so pleased to see me. Her son, Dino and husband Leonidis were there to greet us too. Anna is a gypsy woman from Hora, a small village near ancient Olympias in the Peloponnese. We have an odd connection with 'the man from the bus' (that's the #20 bus in Vancouver), Jimmy (Dimitris) who I see sometimes when I'm riding up the Drive or across Broadway. He calls her regularly from Vancouver and exchanges news, asks about me or tells her if he's seen me. I hadn't seen him in awhile and wondered if he was here, but she says he's in poor health with heart prolems. No doubt, though, she'll relay the news that I'm back here again and one of these days, on the #20 we'll meet up. He's my Athen's connection in Vancouver.

Anna has mellowed so much over the years. I recall our early meetings in the late '80's when the old gang hung out at her brother's sandwich shop up the street from the TKA. In particular I remember the fateful "Summer of the Vipers" in late '87, the night I had a near fatal quarrel with my boyfriend Terry and she intervened, grabbing me by the hair and flinging me onto the road in front of a taxi that just stopped in time! Traumatic to say the least, and it took me a long time to get over it, or to get the courage to go to her taverna. Of course she has long since appologized and now we are friends. She asked me where I was last year and when I said "Havana, Cuba" she got very excited and explained, with Dino's help, how she likes Cuban music and jazz and would I burn some CD's for her?

It's been fun showing Ingrid my old haunts, the house where I lived on Vironos St (Byron's St), and other places where my friends and I used to hang out. Today we ate lunch at the taverna next to the Poulakis (which is now closed) and the waiter, Aris, greeted me as he always does. I've known him for 27 years since I first started coming to Athens and he never forgets me.
It's like that here, for those people who are still around from the old days. They never forget and I am always warmly welcomed 'home'.

Friday is my birthday at the garden taverna. I spoke to Dinaz last night and already Ove had called about it, and she was calling Mike. Zoe's supposed to come and maybe Carola. I hope a few of the old friends will show up.

We are enjoying being at my friend Christina's too. She had kindly set everything out for us, even cooked us a dinner (which we didn't notice til we were almost out the door on Mond. night) but last night we all sat together in the courtyard, ate the dinner, drank lots of krasi and talked for hours. Daniella has grown into a lovely young lady (she's almost like a granddaughter to me as I used to baby sit her before she could even walk or talk!) She wants us to come to her school dance and sports performance on Sunday night so of course we'll go. After that we'll head for the Ionian islands. Meanwhile, tomorrow, more sightseeing. I do enjoy being the tour guide!

Yesterday we went up the Acropolis. Ingrid's main focus was the Karyatids, the lovely ladies which are now standing in all their glory without scaffolding. She took a lot of photos of them in various poses.
Today we went around the Roman agora and also the ancient agora. I'll go back to capture Phokion's spirit. I've already noticed a couple of errors I made in setting details in my recent novel chapters and being such a nit-picker as I am with that sort of thing, I'll have to correct them, or perhaps just take some poetic license. More about this later.

The weather is pleasantly hot but yesterday, just as we were dismounting from the Rock, Zeus started throwing around his thunderbolts and we had to take shelter under a tree til an enterprising young Bangladeshi guy came along selling umbrellas. He made two quick sales. I recalled my famous last words as I ditched my old umbrella in London "I won't be needing this in Athens!" HA! Well, at least the rain keeps the air fresh and fragrant and cools things down.

"He who exercises his reason and cultivates it seems to be both in the best state of mind and most dear to the gods.'" Aristotle.