Friday, March 31.
It's our last night in Malaysia. Tomorrow morning we board the plane for the long, long flight home via L.A. with a 5 hour stop-over. We won't arrive in Vancouver til evening (the same day we left here. Amazing!) but we're staying at an airport hotel until Sunday to rest up.
We got to Kuala Lumpur around noon today after a quick and easy flight from Langkawi. It's a beautiful country to fly over and especially today when it was clear most of the way. You look down as see all those emerald islands in the blue Adaman Sea, with their edges all white with sand. Then, over the mainland, the acres and acres of grids of palm-oil palms; the orange patches of wet soil where padi fields are, and all the other shades of green foliage.
Our driver was waiting on schedule at the K.L. airport. We are so impressed with the efficiency and well-organized tour operators here. Not one glitch! And all so courteous and helpful.
We got wisked back the 1 hr. drive to the city and deposited like arriving royalty at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Oh my! We are so spoiled and pampered! This is the most fabulous place and everyone goes out of their way to be pleasant and helpful. It was like a homecoming as they mostly all recognized us from last week and greeted us warmly.
We went next door to the mall for lunch. By this time it was around 1 pm and we were very hungry. This was our first glitch...the cafe service was so slow. We waited nearly an hour before we finally got our order and we were not impressed. This was the first time it has happened on this trip. I actually think the young waitress forgot to place our order but every time we asked her she brushed us off. This was certainly not the usual type of behavior here and we got very cross (besides being starving).
Then we went to the mall (this is the big fancy expensive one) to shop. I wanted one of those pirate t-shirts and picked up a couple of last minute items (forgot some) and back to the hotel for an afternoon swim in the pool at the edge of the sky. Yes. The pool is on the third floor and the water is level with the edge of the building so it looks like you are going to swim off into space. Quite incredible. And very beautiful. We managed a couple of swims and then the storm clouds rolled in and it began to rain quite heavily so that ended our pool day.
While we were sitting there contemplating all our adventures and enjoying the magnificent view of Kuala Lumpur, I was tyring to process everything, realized I'd have lots more stories to tell when I get home. For one thing, this city is a wonder. The architecture, the lovely parks, the friendliness of the people...And one unique thing is sitting there by the poolside and suddenly hearing the Muezzin's call to prayer. Quite a magical and captivating sound. You hear it several times a day but from the rooftop it is clearer. We both agreed it was one thing we wouldn't forget about this city. It reminded us both of Istanbul in that respect.
So tonight, for our extravaganza farewell we dressed up in our fancy duds and went downstairs to one of the fine restaurants in this hotel. We had decided to make it a real treat, and it was.
Here's a sample of the menu: I had sorrel salad, radichio, young artichokes in a walnut balsamic dressing; tasmanian salmon with yuzu, sea urchin sauce, broad beans mouseline and seared crocant (?); My friend Ruth had crab meat cappucino w/saffron, tomato and shark fin and forest mushrooms with sage and aubergine jus, and tomato lasagna and we had sauteed mushrooms for appetizers; glasses of wine; coffee served with little sweets on the side; and a wine glass with various chocolates for a treat. Mmmm delicious! And of course the service was exquisite! Of course this cost us, but it was worth it. Around $65 a piece but believe me it was an unforgettable experience. And since we get the room paid for thanks to Malaysian Tourism, why not splurge, eh?
That was our memorable last day in Malaysia. This has been truly the experience of a lifetime and for sure I won't forget it soon and will always feel so grateful to the Malay people and Malaysian Tourism for giving me this opportunity. There ought to be quite a few good stories out of it too. And many more tales to tell.
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Friday, March 31, 2006
Thursday, March 30, 2006
A LAZY DAY IN THE TROPICAL SUN
March 30/06
Our last day on Langkawi. The pool was open today (at last!) and the sun was shining except for a brief time in the morning when there was a sudden strong wind blowing up white-caps on the lagoon, and sending the flocks of birds flapping out of the palms. Big black storm clouds were scudding across the sky but fortunately the wind blew them right over and the sun broke through again so our pool day wasn't spoiled after all.
In the morning, first thing, we took a cab into Kuah to the bank and Praise the Lord! that nice little ATM machine spit out all kinds of ringits for me, replacing what we'd spent the other night on that extravagent lobster dinner!
So this evening, after our pool day, own personal taxi driver, Hasbullah, picked us up promptly at seven to take us for dinner. We had asked him to suggest a good place to eat. He suggested either Chinese or Malay but of course we chose Malay. He drove us to this beautiful traditional style restaraunt called the Matahari Malay Restaurant. It's like a little compound of traditional Malay buildings with gardens, palms, flowering shrubs, cobbled pathways lit by little lamps,
and bird baths full of flowers and tiny frogs. Just charming! We were greeted at the entrance by a bevy of lovely young Malay women who escorted us in with the usual happy smiles.
It looks to be a very expensive place but is actually quite reasonable. For our dinner we chose
Sayur Masaic Loder which was vegetables cooked in coconut milk, vermicelli and bean curb. (5 ringits = $2.50) Ayam Gulai Kampung: chicken cooked in a clay pot with shallots, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, curry leaf, lemon leaf, tumeric and coconut milk (15 ringits= $5.) a plate of rice ( 5R), cocktails were 10 R = $3.50 and beer 6 R = $2. Each dish was attractively garnished with a darling little red pepper cut into flower petals with green leaves. I took some photos it was so beautiful so I hope they turn out!
Traditional Malay music played while we ate and the service was superb. (Unlike the other restaraunt where we had to infamous lobster dinner, there were NO bugs flying around at all even though there were lily ponds and little fountains splashing around us.)
After dinner we looked around. I was amazed when I went into the washroom which not only had Malay decor but sprays of fragrant white egg-flowers (like plumeria) and there were even some floating in the toilets!
There's another restaurant that is part of the complex called The Sun Village Sea Food. (We should have had our lobster there!) and little individual dining rooms decorated with Malay furnishings, cushions etc. So attractive!
We were very grateful to our driver to taking us there and I must say he was the most gracious fellow, so kind, gentle and considerate, waiting for us each time he drove us out for dinner. And the cab drivers here don't rip you off like elsewhere. In fact tonight he charged us less than usual. Of course we have been tipping him generously for his kindness.
As this was our last night here. After we got back we went to the Beach Bistro but there was no music tonight. So we had a beer (the boys put on the salsa music for us) and then ordered a Hennessy brandy to take up to our room. (Expensive at 24 ringits for a hefty shot: $7.50)
But worth it for our last celebration.
Up early tomorrow for our 55 minute flight into Kuala Lumpur. Then we'll spend the day lounging at the pool in the sky and browsing around that fabulous shopping mall. There's a pirate T-shirt there I am determined to buy and fortunately I am still rich enough to do so!
It's been a memorable holiday. There will be many more stories to tell once I've processed it all. And hopefully the photos will all turn out (in particular the rolls of slide film).
See you all next week in Vancouver!
Our last day on Langkawi. The pool was open today (at last!) and the sun was shining except for a brief time in the morning when there was a sudden strong wind blowing up white-caps on the lagoon, and sending the flocks of birds flapping out of the palms. Big black storm clouds were scudding across the sky but fortunately the wind blew them right over and the sun broke through again so our pool day wasn't spoiled after all.
In the morning, first thing, we took a cab into Kuah to the bank and Praise the Lord! that nice little ATM machine spit out all kinds of ringits for me, replacing what we'd spent the other night on that extravagent lobster dinner!
So this evening, after our pool day, own personal taxi driver, Hasbullah, picked us up promptly at seven to take us for dinner. We had asked him to suggest a good place to eat. He suggested either Chinese or Malay but of course we chose Malay. He drove us to this beautiful traditional style restaraunt called the Matahari Malay Restaurant. It's like a little compound of traditional Malay buildings with gardens, palms, flowering shrubs, cobbled pathways lit by little lamps,
and bird baths full of flowers and tiny frogs. Just charming! We were greeted at the entrance by a bevy of lovely young Malay women who escorted us in with the usual happy smiles.
It looks to be a very expensive place but is actually quite reasonable. For our dinner we chose
Sayur Masaic Loder which was vegetables cooked in coconut milk, vermicelli and bean curb. (5 ringits = $2.50) Ayam Gulai Kampung: chicken cooked in a clay pot with shallots, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, curry leaf, lemon leaf, tumeric and coconut milk (15 ringits= $5.) a plate of rice ( 5R), cocktails were 10 R = $3.50 and beer 6 R = $2. Each dish was attractively garnished with a darling little red pepper cut into flower petals with green leaves. I took some photos it was so beautiful so I hope they turn out!
Traditional Malay music played while we ate and the service was superb. (Unlike the other restaraunt where we had to infamous lobster dinner, there were NO bugs flying around at all even though there were lily ponds and little fountains splashing around us.)
After dinner we looked around. I was amazed when I went into the washroom which not only had Malay decor but sprays of fragrant white egg-flowers (like plumeria) and there were even some floating in the toilets!
There's another restaurant that is part of the complex called The Sun Village Sea Food. (We should have had our lobster there!) and little individual dining rooms decorated with Malay furnishings, cushions etc. So attractive!
We were very grateful to our driver to taking us there and I must say he was the most gracious fellow, so kind, gentle and considerate, waiting for us each time he drove us out for dinner. And the cab drivers here don't rip you off like elsewhere. In fact tonight he charged us less than usual. Of course we have been tipping him generously for his kindness.
As this was our last night here. After we got back we went to the Beach Bistro but there was no music tonight. So we had a beer (the boys put on the salsa music for us) and then ordered a Hennessy brandy to take up to our room. (Expensive at 24 ringits for a hefty shot: $7.50)
But worth it for our last celebration.
Up early tomorrow for our 55 minute flight into Kuala Lumpur. Then we'll spend the day lounging at the pool in the sky and browsing around that fabulous shopping mall. There's a pirate T-shirt there I am determined to buy and fortunately I am still rich enough to do so!
It's been a memorable holiday. There will be many more stories to tell once I've processed it all. And hopefully the photos will all turn out (in particular the rolls of slide film).
See you all next week in Vancouver!
Wednesday, March 29, 2006
THE MANGROVE FOREST
WEDNESDAY, March 29/06
Today we took a boat trip from a Malay fishing village up the Kilim River through the mangrove forest. It reminded me a lot of the bayous in Louisianna except there the trees are Cypress and there are alligators in the swamps. The forest is dense and swampy here and there are many species of wild life such as pythons, minoter lizards, small crocs and of course the monkeys. We even saw some 'mangrove' dogs, (Malay dingos), a small russet- coloured dog that can run about in the muck and mire without sinking.
One of our first stops was to a rocky island (Flying Fox Island) to see the hundreds of huge bats (called flying foxes or flying dogs) who inhabit it. There were dozens of them hanging from the trees. Their wing span can reach 1.2 meters. They prey on the lizards and other smaller wild life on the island and in turn they are preyed upon by the eagles who we saw hovering around.
Before we entered the river delta, we stopped at a place where you could feed the eagles. Langkawi means "brown eagle", the symbol of the island. These are the white-bellied sea eagles and there were also brahamian (brown) kites -- hundreds of them who circle the boats coming down to feed. The guide explained they only give them tid-bits so as not to disrupt the natural habits of the birds and make them dependant on hand-outs from the tourist boats.
Journeying up the river was an adventure. There are so many shades of green, even the river is green, and the jungle and mangrove forest is thick and lush. The mangrove trees grow right down into the water, their roots sometimes exposed at low tide. They are many species of wild life here and we saw a small croc swimming across the river (about the size of a caymen) and also moniter lizards. The mangrove trees have been used for the production of charcoal and we visited an abandoned charcoal 'factory' with the kiln and houses where workers lived. Now this mangrove forest is protected by the ecologists and forestry service so the mangrove charcoal factory here has been closed.
Farther up the river, we stopped at a fish farm -- not one for commecial use, but one where tourists can view the various fishes. We teetered along the wooden plank floats and watched our guide feed various species of fish including a manta ray ("sexy lips") a barracuda, and sea bass as well as others. We had stopped along our cruise to feed a school of colorful yellow and black stripped zebra fish cracker crumbs but that was the only fish-feeding I did myself this day. We could hold the horseshoe crabs if we wanted and he tried to pick up the slippery polka-dotted moray eel but it preferred to hide in it's pipe hideaway.
Before lunch we stopped at the bat caves. This it the habitat of the fruit bat, a small bat which we saw clinging by the hundreds to the ceiling of the caves. There are also colourful stalagtites in the cave. We'd been warned about the smell but the bat guano wasn't too stinky.
Our lunch was a buffet at a unique restaurant, The Barn Thai, which was a big wooden building built like the traditional Thai and Malay houses. We shared a table with a friendly Welsh couple who were part of our tour group. They came from a town near Caerphilly where my Dad came from and my cousins live so it was fun talking to them. After lunch we cruised back down the river to the Adaman Sea and along the rugged coast to a beautiful white-sand beach, Tanjung Ruh, where we stopped for a most refreshing swim!
Today the weather was hot and sunny, about 33C or more with a very high humidity. It's the first day since we arrived that it hasn't rained at some point so we were grateful for all that sunshine although it was far to hot to be out in it for long.
Tonight we opted to go to the Beach Bistro. Of course we went at 7 pm and had a light meal, with Tiger beer which is cheap and good (not that extravaganza of last night!) The music starts at 8, the duo who sings there are very good and sing a lot of old familiar and excellent songs, and have beautiful voices. We were the only audience but probably because it was so early. Left there before the first set finished though I would have liked to linger longer. Back to the hotel. Brandy and a nice talk on the balcony (steamy hot out there) and that's it for the night. By 9 I'm in the computer room -- a regular guest here these days. We have one more night here - tomorrow. Hopefully the pool will be open so we can spend most of it swimming and sunning. We've asked our taxi driver to pick us up by seven to go for a specail dinner (his suggestion of a restaurant). Then on Friday we're heading back to Kuala Lumpur. It's been a simply wonderful visit here...fulfilling a life's dream of lazing on a tropical island. I'm grateful for every moment of it and have a supply of stories to entertain my friends with for some time to come.
Today we took a boat trip from a Malay fishing village up the Kilim River through the mangrove forest. It reminded me a lot of the bayous in Louisianna except there the trees are Cypress and there are alligators in the swamps. The forest is dense and swampy here and there are many species of wild life such as pythons, minoter lizards, small crocs and of course the monkeys. We even saw some 'mangrove' dogs, (Malay dingos), a small russet- coloured dog that can run about in the muck and mire without sinking.
One of our first stops was to a rocky island (Flying Fox Island) to see the hundreds of huge bats (called flying foxes or flying dogs) who inhabit it. There were dozens of them hanging from the trees. Their wing span can reach 1.2 meters. They prey on the lizards and other smaller wild life on the island and in turn they are preyed upon by the eagles who we saw hovering around.
Before we entered the river delta, we stopped at a place where you could feed the eagles. Langkawi means "brown eagle", the symbol of the island. These are the white-bellied sea eagles and there were also brahamian (brown) kites -- hundreds of them who circle the boats coming down to feed. The guide explained they only give them tid-bits so as not to disrupt the natural habits of the birds and make them dependant on hand-outs from the tourist boats.
Journeying up the river was an adventure. There are so many shades of green, even the river is green, and the jungle and mangrove forest is thick and lush. The mangrove trees grow right down into the water, their roots sometimes exposed at low tide. They are many species of wild life here and we saw a small croc swimming across the river (about the size of a caymen) and also moniter lizards. The mangrove trees have been used for the production of charcoal and we visited an abandoned charcoal 'factory' with the kiln and houses where workers lived. Now this mangrove forest is protected by the ecologists and forestry service so the mangrove charcoal factory here has been closed.
Farther up the river, we stopped at a fish farm -- not one for commecial use, but one where tourists can view the various fishes. We teetered along the wooden plank floats and watched our guide feed various species of fish including a manta ray ("sexy lips") a barracuda, and sea bass as well as others. We had stopped along our cruise to feed a school of colorful yellow and black stripped zebra fish cracker crumbs but that was the only fish-feeding I did myself this day. We could hold the horseshoe crabs if we wanted and he tried to pick up the slippery polka-dotted moray eel but it preferred to hide in it's pipe hideaway.
Before lunch we stopped at the bat caves. This it the habitat of the fruit bat, a small bat which we saw clinging by the hundreds to the ceiling of the caves. There are also colourful stalagtites in the cave. We'd been warned about the smell but the bat guano wasn't too stinky.
Our lunch was a buffet at a unique restaurant, The Barn Thai, which was a big wooden building built like the traditional Thai and Malay houses. We shared a table with a friendly Welsh couple who were part of our tour group. They came from a town near Caerphilly where my Dad came from and my cousins live so it was fun talking to them. After lunch we cruised back down the river to the Adaman Sea and along the rugged coast to a beautiful white-sand beach, Tanjung Ruh, where we stopped for a most refreshing swim!
Today the weather was hot and sunny, about 33C or more with a very high humidity. It's the first day since we arrived that it hasn't rained at some point so we were grateful for all that sunshine although it was far to hot to be out in it for long.
Tonight we opted to go to the Beach Bistro. Of course we went at 7 pm and had a light meal, with Tiger beer which is cheap and good (not that extravaganza of last night!) The music starts at 8, the duo who sings there are very good and sing a lot of old familiar and excellent songs, and have beautiful voices. We were the only audience but probably because it was so early. Left there before the first set finished though I would have liked to linger longer. Back to the hotel. Brandy and a nice talk on the balcony (steamy hot out there) and that's it for the night. By 9 I'm in the computer room -- a regular guest here these days. We have one more night here - tomorrow. Hopefully the pool will be open so we can spend most of it swimming and sunning. We've asked our taxi driver to pick us up by seven to go for a specail dinner (his suggestion of a restaurant). Then on Friday we're heading back to Kuala Lumpur. It's been a simply wonderful visit here...fulfilling a life's dream of lazing on a tropical island. I'm grateful for every moment of it and have a supply of stories to entertain my friends with for some time to come.
Tuesday, March 28, 2006
MANGO GROVES, SHOPPING MALLS AND THE BIG LOBSTER FIASCO
MARCH 28, Tuesday (We are so discombobulated I can never remember what day it is!)
As the pool is still closed, this morning we decided to swim in the lagoon. The tide was right and the water very warm, though murkey. But on second dip I discovered these critters that looked like jelly fish lining the shore -- perhaps the kind that give you a nasty sting. And a Swiss tourist told us he'd seen a small shark lurking out there yesterday, following the fish boats in. So I didn't go back in. (I realized later those jelly things might have been cuttle-fish and therefore harmless.)
Our personal taxi driver Hasbullah, picked us up at noon (promptly) and drove us into Kuah (Kwa) for our day of shopping. He's such a congenial fellow and takes time to point out sights along the way. Today we saw lots of herds of water buffaloes in the fields. And he showed us the rubber plantations (they tap the trees only in the sunshine and get 3 ringits a litre for the rubber. That's about $1.) The countryside here is lush and beautiful with trees and vegetations. We drove past the padi fields, and fruit orchards: mango groves, and orchards of guava and star fruit. There was one fruit farm with greenhouses.
In Kuah we went first to the bank to change traveler's cheques and then on to the mall. Hasbullah waited for us to do our transactions. But at the mall we told him not to wait as we planned to shop til we dropped. And we did. Shopping here is fantastic as the prices are so low and some shops also had 20% discounts! Examples: souvenier t-shirts for 4 R ($1.50); Lovely Indian cotton shirts for 50 R. ($16.50) a bottle of French brandy (duty free) for only 32 R ($10)
Needless to say we shopped til we could not carry another item and in all that extravaganza I think I only spent about $160.
Then re retreated to a cafe for a cold Tiger beer (4 R a glass. $1.50)
Tonight Hasbaullah picked us up promptly at 7 to drive us to a seafood restaurant. It costs 20 R each way to town (about $6.50) or to the cafe we went to. It's about 22 kilometer into town.
Here's were we met with our one and only spending disaster. This was a very attractive restaurant, The Tang Lung Seafood Restaurant. We were quite impressed when we went there -- everything red and Chinese with bonzai trees around and cute little waitresses. We came especially for lobster which was advertised as 22 R. per 100 grams. We were asked to choose a live lobster from the tank so we took the largest as there were two of us. Little did we realize they weigh the thing shell and all. We had the lobsster which wasn't that great as it was breaded and not any more than 100 grams of meat somewhere in the breading, two plates of bok choy in garlic and some spring rolls, wine and beer. Meanwhile, the music was horrible and played over and over and over again this medely of old-time favorites with canned accompaniment. And then the bugs descended swarming around the lights and landing on us and our food. One light fixture had several small lizards inside having a feast of their own.
I must add that the lobster was a very large handsome fellow. I think he swelled with the cooking and took up the whole platter with his feelers upright looking very regal. We had our picture taken with him. But then the bill came. We were astounded (and lucky for us we scraped together the money or we'd probably be in a Malay jail right now!) The bill totalled 343.20 R
(with 7 R tip each, divided by two it cost ust 174.4o R. each which amounts to about $60 a piece. Both of us were financially wiped out and hopefully I'll get the bank machine to work on Thursday when we go into town (hadn't planned on it, wanted to spend the whole day by the pool, but it's necessary now!)
Anyway, we got home okay as our driver was waiting for us. We tipped him generously too and then both of us were broke except for the money we need for our mangrove forest tour tomorrow. Well, it was our mistake and I guess we can count it as an experience. And after all so much of this marvelous trip has been paid for.
Hasbullah is going to pick us up on Thursday evening and we asked him to suggest a good restaurant to take us to. Tomorrow we go on the mangrove forest boat trip and that includes lunch. Don't worry, we aren't about to starve or get stranded yet!
So tune in tomorrow for more of our adventures!
As the pool is still closed, this morning we decided to swim in the lagoon. The tide was right and the water very warm, though murkey. But on second dip I discovered these critters that looked like jelly fish lining the shore -- perhaps the kind that give you a nasty sting. And a Swiss tourist told us he'd seen a small shark lurking out there yesterday, following the fish boats in. So I didn't go back in. (I realized later those jelly things might have been cuttle-fish and therefore harmless.)
Our personal taxi driver Hasbullah, picked us up at noon (promptly) and drove us into Kuah (Kwa) for our day of shopping. He's such a congenial fellow and takes time to point out sights along the way. Today we saw lots of herds of water buffaloes in the fields. And he showed us the rubber plantations (they tap the trees only in the sunshine and get 3 ringits a litre for the rubber. That's about $1.) The countryside here is lush and beautiful with trees and vegetations. We drove past the padi fields, and fruit orchards: mango groves, and orchards of guava and star fruit. There was one fruit farm with greenhouses.
In Kuah we went first to the bank to change traveler's cheques and then on to the mall. Hasbullah waited for us to do our transactions. But at the mall we told him not to wait as we planned to shop til we dropped. And we did. Shopping here is fantastic as the prices are so low and some shops also had 20% discounts! Examples: souvenier t-shirts for 4 R ($1.50); Lovely Indian cotton shirts for 50 R. ($16.50) a bottle of French brandy (duty free) for only 32 R ($10)
Needless to say we shopped til we could not carry another item and in all that extravaganza I think I only spent about $160.
Then re retreated to a cafe for a cold Tiger beer (4 R a glass. $1.50)
Tonight Hasbaullah picked us up promptly at 7 to drive us to a seafood restaurant. It costs 20 R each way to town (about $6.50) or to the cafe we went to. It's about 22 kilometer into town.
Here's were we met with our one and only spending disaster. This was a very attractive restaurant, The Tang Lung Seafood Restaurant. We were quite impressed when we went there -- everything red and Chinese with bonzai trees around and cute little waitresses. We came especially for lobster which was advertised as 22 R. per 100 grams. We were asked to choose a live lobster from the tank so we took the largest as there were two of us. Little did we realize they weigh the thing shell and all. We had the lobsster which wasn't that great as it was breaded and not any more than 100 grams of meat somewhere in the breading, two plates of bok choy in garlic and some spring rolls, wine and beer. Meanwhile, the music was horrible and played over and over and over again this medely of old-time favorites with canned accompaniment. And then the bugs descended swarming around the lights and landing on us and our food. One light fixture had several small lizards inside having a feast of their own.
I must add that the lobster was a very large handsome fellow. I think he swelled with the cooking and took up the whole platter with his feelers upright looking very regal. We had our picture taken with him. But then the bill came. We were astounded (and lucky for us we scraped together the money or we'd probably be in a Malay jail right now!) The bill totalled 343.20 R
(with 7 R tip each, divided by two it cost ust 174.4o R. each which amounts to about $60 a piece. Both of us were financially wiped out and hopefully I'll get the bank machine to work on Thursday when we go into town (hadn't planned on it, wanted to spend the whole day by the pool, but it's necessary now!)
Anyway, we got home okay as our driver was waiting for us. We tipped him generously too and then both of us were broke except for the money we need for our mangrove forest tour tomorrow. Well, it was our mistake and I guess we can count it as an experience. And after all so much of this marvelous trip has been paid for.
Hasbullah is going to pick us up on Thursday evening and we asked him to suggest a good restaurant to take us to. Tomorrow we go on the mangrove forest boat trip and that includes lunch. Don't worry, we aren't about to starve or get stranded yet!
So tune in tomorrow for more of our adventures!
Monday, March 27, 2006
THE LEGEND OF MAKRAN MAHSURI
March 27
We woke to a tropical rainstorm -- raining frogs and lizards -- but very steamy hot. We were scheduled for a round-the-island tour but delayed because of car trouble. The very congenial and informative young driver, Shoon, picked us up by noon with many appologise for the delay.
Then we headed off through the Langkawi countryside -- the padi fields with water buffalo wallowing in the mud accompanied by their ever-present friends the white egrets who willingly pluck the leeches and bugs off their backs. Our first stop (after picking two other passengers who were a very interesting couple from England) was to a Batik Craft bazaar. There we were shown the technique of batiks and even got to try out some for ourselves. It's such an interesting art form and so peaceful to do that I wouldn't mind trying my hand at it. The Malay batiks are exquisite, with the pattern on both sides of the cloth. I bought a couple of little pieces for table clothes.
The next stop was at a place that has a great significance in the island's history and legends. The burial site of Makran Mahsuri. It's a complicated and tragic story which I will try to condense here. This beautiful young maiden came here from Thailand (Siam) with her family and settled on Langkawi in around the mid 1800's. She married the son of the tribal chief and was well respected and loved by everyone who knew her not only for her beauty of countenance but of spirit. Unfortunatly, her mother-in-law, wife of the chief was horrible jealous of her. and when Mahsuri's husband left to accompany his father on tribal business, she set about a plan to destroy Mahsuri. She noticed Mahsuri talking to a traveling merchant and concocted a story that accused Mahsuri of adultery. She was arrested and tied to a tree, left for days int the heat and the rain while the verdict was decided. Accused of adultery, she was sentenced to death by imapling. The sentence was carried out despite her pleas of innocence. But no matter how many times they stabbed her she did not die. Finally, she conceded to death but said she would only die by the knife of her own father. And she said that to prove her innocence her blood would be white. She was eventually stabbed and white blood sprang out, never touching the ground but as she died she cursed the island and said that for seven generations the island would not prosper.
For years Langkawi was ignored by traders who sailed south to Penang, and beset by long wars against Siam. All the padi fields were burned so that the Siamese would not take them and to this day they say that after heavy rains the smell of the burnt padis can be detected.
Although part of this story is legend, a lot is true and there are newspaper reports posted in the museum as well as photos of the geneology of Matsuri's family, her husband and her son (who was an infant at her death and was spiritied away to another place).
Langkawi has not prospered until 1987 when things began to pick up (the movie "Anna and the King" with Jodie Foster was filmed here) and tourism is starting to take hold. Mainly the islanders survived on fishing, rubber plantations and padi fields. Most of the island is still rural areas with farming including some cattle.
After that very interesting and informative tour of the Mahsuri Mausoleum we went to the main town of Kuah and saw the giant brown eagle that guards the harbour, symbol of Langkawi.
Then a stop at the mall for lunch and shopping. Went to the duty free liquor store where you can get brandy for $15 (top brand) and other amazing bargains.
Tonight we went by cab to the Padi Cuisine Cafe for a delicious Malay dinner, right by the padi fields. So unique. The taxi driver offered to wait for us. Again, we were touched by the hospitality and kindness of these people. I'm sure I'll feel very sad when I leave here next weekend. This has been the most unique experience!
Tomorrow: Shop til you Drop!
We woke to a tropical rainstorm -- raining frogs and lizards -- but very steamy hot. We were scheduled for a round-the-island tour but delayed because of car trouble. The very congenial and informative young driver, Shoon, picked us up by noon with many appologise for the delay.
Then we headed off through the Langkawi countryside -- the padi fields with water buffalo wallowing in the mud accompanied by their ever-present friends the white egrets who willingly pluck the leeches and bugs off their backs. Our first stop (after picking two other passengers who were a very interesting couple from England) was to a Batik Craft bazaar. There we were shown the technique of batiks and even got to try out some for ourselves. It's such an interesting art form and so peaceful to do that I wouldn't mind trying my hand at it. The Malay batiks are exquisite, with the pattern on both sides of the cloth. I bought a couple of little pieces for table clothes.
The next stop was at a place that has a great significance in the island's history and legends. The burial site of Makran Mahsuri. It's a complicated and tragic story which I will try to condense here. This beautiful young maiden came here from Thailand (Siam) with her family and settled on Langkawi in around the mid 1800's. She married the son of the tribal chief and was well respected and loved by everyone who knew her not only for her beauty of countenance but of spirit. Unfortunatly, her mother-in-law, wife of the chief was horrible jealous of her. and when Mahsuri's husband left to accompany his father on tribal business, she set about a plan to destroy Mahsuri. She noticed Mahsuri talking to a traveling merchant and concocted a story that accused Mahsuri of adultery. She was arrested and tied to a tree, left for days int the heat and the rain while the verdict was decided. Accused of adultery, she was sentenced to death by imapling. The sentence was carried out despite her pleas of innocence. But no matter how many times they stabbed her she did not die. Finally, she conceded to death but said she would only die by the knife of her own father. And she said that to prove her innocence her blood would be white. She was eventually stabbed and white blood sprang out, never touching the ground but as she died she cursed the island and said that for seven generations the island would not prosper.
For years Langkawi was ignored by traders who sailed south to Penang, and beset by long wars against Siam. All the padi fields were burned so that the Siamese would not take them and to this day they say that after heavy rains the smell of the burnt padis can be detected.
Although part of this story is legend, a lot is true and there are newspaper reports posted in the museum as well as photos of the geneology of Matsuri's family, her husband and her son (who was an infant at her death and was spiritied away to another place).
Langkawi has not prospered until 1987 when things began to pick up (the movie "Anna and the King" with Jodie Foster was filmed here) and tourism is starting to take hold. Mainly the islanders survived on fishing, rubber plantations and padi fields. Most of the island is still rural areas with farming including some cattle.
After that very interesting and informative tour of the Mahsuri Mausoleum we went to the main town of Kuah and saw the giant brown eagle that guards the harbour, symbol of Langkawi.
Then a stop at the mall for lunch and shopping. Went to the duty free liquor store where you can get brandy for $15 (top brand) and other amazing bargains.
Tonight we went by cab to the Padi Cuisine Cafe for a delicious Malay dinner, right by the padi fields. So unique. The taxi driver offered to wait for us. Again, we were touched by the hospitality and kindness of these people. I'm sure I'll feel very sad when I leave here next weekend. This has been the most unique experience!
Tomorrow: Shop til you Drop!
Sunday, March 26, 2006
MONKEYING AROUND ON THE ISLANDS
March 26. Today we went island hopping. Pulau Lankawi is the island where we are staying, the largest of a cluster of 99 islands. We boarded a small tour boat with several young Chinese couples and our guide and headed out into the sparkling sea toward the many small jewel-green islands that surround Langkawi. The islands are renowned for their legends and our first stop was Pulau Dayang Bunting. We were greeted by swarms of monkeys who live up their their name as mischief-makers and saucy little characters fearless and rather pesky. When my friend left her bags unattended one of the girl monkeys went into them, and tossed everything out, searching for trinkets or food!
Fifteen minutes through the jungle we arrived at a crystal clear emerald coloured lake. This is the legendary Lake of the Pregnant Maiden. According to legend, a celestial princess married a mortal prince and gave birth to a baby which died soon after its birth. She was so heartbroken she buried the baby in the lake. And when she returned to her celestial home, she blessed the lake so that any maiden who wished to conceive who bathed in the lake would become pregnant. (It ain't gonna happen to us but we sure enjoyed the swim!)
While we were waiting for stragglers at the jetty, the tour guide, Freddie, told us about the day of the tsumani. He had just brought a group back from the lake and they noticed all the water had been sucked out of the bay. Not knowing what was happening, thinking it was just an unusual low tide, they were all taking photos and then the water started to rush back in. They all ran for the higher ground and the water came back in, rising up above the pathways and little bridge. Fortunately nobody was hurt or worse. And in fact, by some miracle, Malaysia suffered little damage and loss of life from the tsunami. He said only 1 person in Langkawi was killed although several fishing villages were destroyed.
We boarded the little boat again and cruised out between the islands to a place where the eagles come to feed on fish. There were dozens of beautiful bronze-coloured eagles surrounding the boat, diving and soaring around us. Quite a sight!
Then we continued our cruise on the very calm sea, passing by many of the small, jungle-covered islands that are not much more than rocks covered with trees jutting out of the turquoise sea. Others, like Pulau Beras Basah have beautiful white sand beaches. This island, known as "The Isle of Wet Rice" was our stop for an hour's swim. The sea here is so warm, like a bath, and clean, clear with soft sandy bottom. There are not many shells on the beaches, and only a few pieces of coral from the reefs. Looking down from the jetty, the water is so clear you can see schools of little yellow and black striped fish swimming. These islands are great for scuba divers and snorkeling. And there are other water sports provided like riding the 'banana boat', towed behind a speed boat. Great fun!
More monkey business at Pulau Beras Basah. They are mainly the long-tailed macaque and dusty langur monkeys. You see the old grumpy grandpa monks, the over-protective dads, the mothers with their new babies held securly against their breasts, the young ones and teen-agers. Whole monkey families. Quite a sight! We took lots of photos. It was so fascinating watching them in their own natural environment. And getting up close and personal with them!
Tomorrow we have a half-day island tour. More legendary sites and a look at the padi fields as well as other sights. This is truly a unique advanture and one I'll remember for some time to come.
Saturday, March 25, 2006
THE SILENCE THAT SURROUNDS US
"Those who sleep close to the water find tranquility." legendary Hawaiian belief
We arrived here in Langkawi island yesterday after a 55 minute flight from K.L. There was an hour delay at K.L. We had boarded the plane and were waiting to take off when we were suddenly told to deplane and go to another boarding gate for a new plane. Some problem with overloading or something. Anyway it all worked out okay and in spite of the rain storm at the time we arrive safely on the island.
The Langkawi Lagoon Resort is about 10 mins from the airport. Our efficient driver was there to pick us up and deliver us. The setting has a backdrop of green jungle-covered hills and low mountains and the surrounding lagoon with a beach of white sand by the Andaman Sea. There is a cluster of traditional fishermen's type Malay houses on stilts on the edge of the lagoon which can be rented as units but we are staying in the hotel itself. We have a very nice room with a view of the lagoon and hills. After the ultra posh Mandarin Oriental, we've become a little spoiled, but realize island life is different, not as sophisticated as in Kuala Lumpur. And this little enclave seems to be very Muslim. The restaurant bar by the pool serves "mocktails" and no alcoholic beverages are listed on the menu. It is possible to get the boy to bring drinks from elsewhere however. And there is a little bistro bar on the beach where you can get drinks and enjoy some live music in the evenings.
I wanted very much to go there last night but after our early dinner at the seafood restaurant (also a part of the enclave) my friend wanted to retire. She's used to going to bed at 9 pm and I haven't done so since I was about 10 years old. I am so used to solo traveling, just making up my own plans and being spontaneous, so this really threw me. I wanted very much to go out to the bistro, but observing that this is a very Muslim area I didn't feel comfortable doing that. Even in liberal Turkey women don't go out unescorted after 9 pm. So I just sat on the balcony and listened to my music. I listened first to the CD William had made me and felt Anibal close to me last night. I played all the music I know he liked and sat there all alone for a few hours. The stars came out and I knew if Susan were there she'd be naming the constellations and we'd be dancing on the balcony. I wondered how I would sort out this dilemma because I didn't come all this way to go to bed early at night and not have any fun once dinner was over. That just isn't my style and why should I do that now?
I woke up early this morning to the sound of cheerful birdsong. There is a serenity here. Everything is so still and if it weren't for the humming of the airconditioning fans, it would only be the sound of the birds and at night the frogs in the nearby river.
We went for breakfast early and then for a refreshingly long swim in the pool. Unfortunately we've been informed that the pool will be closed for maintenance the next four days. And you can't swim in the lagoon unless the tide is up which isn't til evening. I tested the water yesterday and it was warmer than the pool! So we might just splash around in it anyway.
The tour agent came to see us and made arrangements for our half-day tour and pickup for the airport next weekend. And we organized some other tours. Tomorrow we are going island hoppping. We found we couldn't get to Penang in just one day so that's out. And another day we have another excellent tour to the Mangrove Forest. Meanwhile, tonight we took a taxi into the nearest town Kuhau (Kwa) . We meant to go to the night market but instead found an excellent mall where there were all sorts of shops with good stuff to buy for ridiculously low prices so we went on a shopping spree. Even bought a bottle of brandy at the duty-free shop. Had dinner and then came back to the hotel. Ruth suggested we go to the bistro so we did and enjoyed the music for a little while. I'd not have minded spending more time there but wanted to write the blog and so here I am. But at least it won't be 9 pm when I go to bed!!!
Tomorrow I'll report on the island hopping tour which will include a swim at one of the beautiful beaches.
"Things are not as they seem -- nor are they otherwise," Lankavatra Sutra
We arrived here in Langkawi island yesterday after a 55 minute flight from K.L. There was an hour delay at K.L. We had boarded the plane and were waiting to take off when we were suddenly told to deplane and go to another boarding gate for a new plane. Some problem with overloading or something. Anyway it all worked out okay and in spite of the rain storm at the time we arrive safely on the island.
The Langkawi Lagoon Resort is about 10 mins from the airport. Our efficient driver was there to pick us up and deliver us. The setting has a backdrop of green jungle-covered hills and low mountains and the surrounding lagoon with a beach of white sand by the Andaman Sea. There is a cluster of traditional fishermen's type Malay houses on stilts on the edge of the lagoon which can be rented as units but we are staying in the hotel itself. We have a very nice room with a view of the lagoon and hills. After the ultra posh Mandarin Oriental, we've become a little spoiled, but realize island life is different, not as sophisticated as in Kuala Lumpur. And this little enclave seems to be very Muslim. The restaurant bar by the pool serves "mocktails" and no alcoholic beverages are listed on the menu. It is possible to get the boy to bring drinks from elsewhere however. And there is a little bistro bar on the beach where you can get drinks and enjoy some live music in the evenings.
I wanted very much to go there last night but after our early dinner at the seafood restaurant (also a part of the enclave) my friend wanted to retire. She's used to going to bed at 9 pm and I haven't done so since I was about 10 years old. I am so used to solo traveling, just making up my own plans and being spontaneous, so this really threw me. I wanted very much to go out to the bistro, but observing that this is a very Muslim area I didn't feel comfortable doing that. Even in liberal Turkey women don't go out unescorted after 9 pm. So I just sat on the balcony and listened to my music. I listened first to the CD William had made me and felt Anibal close to me last night. I played all the music I know he liked and sat there all alone for a few hours. The stars came out and I knew if Susan were there she'd be naming the constellations and we'd be dancing on the balcony. I wondered how I would sort out this dilemma because I didn't come all this way to go to bed early at night and not have any fun once dinner was over. That just isn't my style and why should I do that now?
I woke up early this morning to the sound of cheerful birdsong. There is a serenity here. Everything is so still and if it weren't for the humming of the airconditioning fans, it would only be the sound of the birds and at night the frogs in the nearby river.
We went for breakfast early and then for a refreshingly long swim in the pool. Unfortunately we've been informed that the pool will be closed for maintenance the next four days. And you can't swim in the lagoon unless the tide is up which isn't til evening. I tested the water yesterday and it was warmer than the pool! So we might just splash around in it anyway.
The tour agent came to see us and made arrangements for our half-day tour and pickup for the airport next weekend. And we organized some other tours. Tomorrow we are going island hoppping. We found we couldn't get to Penang in just one day so that's out. And another day we have another excellent tour to the Mangrove Forest. Meanwhile, tonight we took a taxi into the nearest town Kuhau (Kwa) . We meant to go to the night market but instead found an excellent mall where there were all sorts of shops with good stuff to buy for ridiculously low prices so we went on a shopping spree. Even bought a bottle of brandy at the duty-free shop. Had dinner and then came back to the hotel. Ruth suggested we go to the bistro so we did and enjoyed the music for a little while. I'd not have minded spending more time there but wanted to write the blog and so here I am. But at least it won't be 9 pm when I go to bed!!!
Tomorrow I'll report on the island hopping tour which will include a swim at one of the beautiful beaches.
"Things are not as they seem -- nor are they otherwise," Lankavatra Sutra
Thursday, March 23, 2006
BOTANICAL GARDENS AND SHADY AVENUES
Wednesday, March 23
The driver picked us up early this morning for a 40 min. drive out into the country to a private estate known as Rimbun Dahan. (I've written about this in detail previously). We were met by Angela Hijjas, the wife of the architect who owns the estate. She greeted us warmly and, accompanied by the newest artist-in-residence there we were taken on an extensive and very educational tour of the botanical gardens. The young couple, Zoe and David, had just arrived from Melbourne and will be the artists in residence at Rimbun for the next year. The Hijjas family pays for everything by way of thanking Australia for their support to the family.
Rimbun Dahan was originally a fruit orchard that is now the centre for architecture, the creative arts and nature conservations. There's a 14 acre compound planted with indigenous S. Asian species, four studios for visual artists, a large dance studio, a restored village house, an underground art gallery, artists' accomodation, a class car garage (Hijjas collects old Rolls Royces and there were around 9 of them on display), and the Hijjas famlyhome and staff quarters. The compound is a residence for artists and writers and students of architecture and ecology.
Angela is a lovely woman and extremely knowlegable about the flora and fauna. It was certainly a bonus tour with lots of chances to ask questions and learn many new things. We saw everything from the nutmeg trees, cashews, various herbs and spices and even a couple of highly poisonous plants. ("One bit of this mixed in your tea and you're a goner!" says Angela.)
The beautiful old traditional village house was a highlight of the tour. It was moved here from its original location in Perak, and restored. It was built originally in 1901 and was possibly the home of a Malay historical figure Maharaja Lela. The house represents a unique blend of Chinese decoration and Malay architecture and demonstrates the objectives of the Rimbun Dahan programme to appreciate the rich experiences that emerge from bridging cultural differences.
There are various wild animals roaming about the estate and I happened to see one (from afar) a very large - maybe 4 ft. moniter lizard. Eek! There are monkeys and wild pigs too but we didn't see any today. After the tour around Angela served us ice lemonade in her house and answered more of our questions. I've taped most of the tour around the gardens and hopefully will glean enough notes to write a good article about Rimbun Dahan.
Forgot to mention, one highlight is the art gallery which is underground. Each artist in residence contributes two paintings to the permanenet collection. These are mainly Malay and Australian artists.
After we returned to the city, we walked over to the Menara Kuala Lumpur which is a communications tower similiar to the one in Toronto. It's 421 meteres high and is the fourth tallest telecommunication tower in the wrold after the CN Tower. The view was magnificent and I got lots of photos although the afternoon was overcast.
On the way back to the hotel we stopped in a sidewalk bar for a cold beer, just in time as suddenly there was a fierce tropical storm: very loud thunder, lightening and teaming rain.
We waited in the shelter of the bar until the storm passed, then carried on back to the hotel.
The temperature has been steamy hot but not unbearable, but we were more than ready for a long refreshing swim in the pool. And later we had dinner by the pool. I had a mai tai with an orchid in it. MMM good!
So it's off to the airport very early tomorrow morning for our flight to Langkawi.
Next report will be from the Island just as soon as I locate an internet connection.
We're having an amazing time! Still pinching myself to see if it's really all truly happening!
Wednesday, March 22, 2006
LIVING IT UP IN K.L.
To have right understanding means to view the world exactly as it presents itself to the eye. That means seeing without imposing any preconceived notions upon what you see..."
March 22, Wed. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
It was a smooth trip all the way, no hassles at all, right the way from Vancouver. L.A. airport isn't too pleasant b ut we found our way over to the international terminal with no problems. (Our luggage was checked straight through to K.L. so that was good!) After our five hour lay-over we boarded Malaysian
Airlines and from the minute we got on board we were pleasantly greeted by the lovely crew -- the girls in their blue patterened Malaysian dress, the stewards in blue jackets.
Everyone with big smiles, so gracious and cheerful. The long, long flight passed by quite quickly and somehow we managed to sleep for most of it. Arrived at Taipei for a refuelling stop (1 hr) and were allowed into the terminal to look around. The first thing you see is a big sign warning that drug trafficking is punishable by capital punishment. The airport in Taipai is impressive but nothing compared to the airport in Kuala Lumpur which is a space-age creation. We were awestruck! We found our driver, no problem. People are so helpful and friendly. It's an hour's drive into the city along a pleasant boulevard lined with palm-oil palms and flowering shrubs. The countryside is lush and beautiful. From a distance we saw the spires of the twin towers arising in the mist and the other tall tower that's like a larger version of the Seattle space needle.
Entering the city we saw many beautiful buildings, some exceptional architecture, some modern, ultra modern, others of a unique colonial design. The city is one of the most spectacular that I've ever seen. We just kept ooing and ahing like two kids in Wonderland.
Then the hotel: the Mandarin Oriental. Holy Moley! Talk about posh! The door men are dressed in white and gold traditional costumes, the other young men wear red sarongs and hats, the women are stylish in their traditional or modern clothing. Everyone here has been blessed with such beauty and serenity of character.
We agreed we'd probably have smiles plastered permanently on our own faces reflecting the hospitality and cheerfulness of the Malay people. (And it's genuine!)
We spent our first afternoon and evening just walking around the vicinity of our hotel and gawking at everying in amazement. There is an extravagant shopping mall next door between our hotel and the Twin Towers, the Suria KLCC. Every designer known has a shop there and it's real, not copies. (We even found some well-known brands such as Bata shoes, and The Gap alongside Versace and Gucci.) By late afternoon a tropical storm complete with thunder and lightening and torrential rain spoiled our plans for a swim in the hotel pool. We opted to stay indoor and enjoy the many varieties of things there are to offer in the hotel, and went to bed early -- by 8 a.m.! *(note: this hotel, the Mandarin Orientlal, ought to be called "the Royal Mandarin Orientlal" as it's like a palace and you are treated royally!)
Today, Wednesday, up early (6 a.m) and down for a buffet breakfast that offered everything from varieties of fruits, waffles, pancakcs to Asian, Chinese, Indian and Japanese food. Then we went and attempted to line up for tickets to go up in the Petrona Towers but were out of luck as our ride was coming at 9. Right on time too!
We went on a half-day tour of the city first passing the origins of K.L, where the two muddy rivers converge (see my previous blog on the history) and all around it are the first of the colonial building built in the mid 1800's including the law courts. Here in Malaysia, drug trafficking, murder and possession of illegal weapons are punishable by death. They don't pussy foot around with criminals. Hence the country is very safe and serene. Then off to see the King's palace, a sumptuous yellow building that was once the home of a wealthy Chinese man who had seven wives. (yellow is the royal colour and once upon a time you were shot if you wore yellow!)
They have an interesting governmental structure here. The country is divided into states so there are 9 sultans and 5 governors. Out of these a king is chosen, rotated every 5 years. The govenrment is elected every 5 years but as it is so satisfactory it's always the same. Everything here is subsidised by the government including education, care of the elderly, medical and homes for the needy. We drove by some shanty towns were squatters have built shacks on government land. The government has now begun to build high-rise apartments, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms for these people which they can purchase for a very low price (affordable) and will be able to own. They have a lifetime to pay.
These new housing units will be ready for use in the near future. The system here works. No wonder everyone is happy! Only 3.9% unemployment. And you can ride public transit anywhere all day for just a few cents.
Past the palace we drove by the large Lake Gardens Park which is where the original settlement started. In this huge park is the world's largest covered bird and butterfuly sanctuaries. After this we toured the
world's largest pewter factory, the Royal Selangor. We watched the workers demostrate how the pewter is made. Pewter is composed of tin, antimony and copper. The first pewter objects were found in Egypt dating to 1500 BC. After this we visited a famous jewelers and were shown how they make gold rings (by a wax moulding process. Fascinating!) Then we drove to a place for a photo op of the Twin Towers.
These amazing towers, the Petrona Towers (owned by Petrona petrolium company) were designed by an Argentinian who also designed the Cannary Wharf Towers in London Eng. They were built by Korean workers who took only 4 days to construct 1 floor. The towers were completed in 2 years. They are built of steel and glass and stand 452 meters high, each tower connected to the other by a bridge mid-way up. They used to be the world's largest towers but now Taipei has built one to exceed that height.
Our hotel is right next door, so we left the tour then and decided to spend the rest of the afternoon at pool side. The pool is on the third floor of the hotel with an amazing city view. Even at the pool you are treated with great attention, given ice water, towels, spritzer for cooling off. We had lunch pool side and a refreshingly long swim. The temperature is hot and steamy althought not unbearable.
After our swim we went for a leisurely walk around the plaza and park behind the hotel, and then to cool off into the air-conditioned shopping mall for another look around, drooling at all the shops. It's a shoppers paradise. Expensive though! (**Note: my Pentax camera is definitely broken. I am relying on the old Richoh for slide photos and had to buy some throw-aways. Digitals are cheap here but I'd prefer to wait and get one at home where i'm sure of a warranty. so keep your fingers crossed that my photos turn out! This has been the only bummer so far!)
Tonight we had cockatails in the hotel lounge and tried out another of the hotels many dining fascilities, the Wasabi Cafe (Japanese) but it was very pricey and we had a laugh at the tiny portions when we had thought we were getting a 'dinner'. So here it is now still mid evening and probably we'll retire early. Tomorrow another early day and the special trip to Rimbun Dahan.
There's so much to see here. Three days is barely touching on it, just giving us a little taste. It's an incredible city, full of amazing sights, and so pleasant to be here. (No pan-handlers, beggars or street-people, just a lot of gorgeous people wearing lovely costumes and smiling at you or stopping to chat and greet you in a most hospitable and earnest way!) And clean! My gosh is this city clean!
Wednesday, March 15, 2006
LANGKAWI: Islands of Legends
Wednesday, March 15. *four more sleeps and we're off!
Ever since I was a kid I've been fascinated with pirates. Beginning with my introduction to Capt. Hook in Peter Pan, the motely crew of Treasure Island and many others who I related to in a big way having an over-ripe imagination, I've studied about the pirates of the Caribbean (including a couple of notorious women pirates); cruised around in the waterways where pirates lurked in the Mediterranean and now, it's the pirates of the Adaman Sea in south Asia. So: Yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum! (or maybe a mai tai or two) Ahoy, matey! Avast ye land-lubbers! Come join my friend Ruth and me on our excellent island adventure!
There are 104 islands lying off the north west coast of Malaysia in the Adaman Sea. These islands, situated along a major trade route, have a long history as a refuge of pirates. Now they have become internationally known as a resort destination, ideal for a tranquil romantic holiday. With soft power-sand beaches, misty limestone hills and the age-old emeral green jungle forest as a back-drop, these islands are irrestistable.
Langkawi is an archipelago of 99 tropical islands. Historically, Langkawi, the largest of the island group, has attracted seafarers throughout the ages because it is located on the tradtiioanl spice route. Early references date to charts of the 15th C. when renowned seafarere Admiral Cheng Ho from China visited enroute to Malacca in 1405. Pepper and rice were the main produce of Langkawi then. The French General Augustus De Beaulieu, in the service of King Louis XIV of France, arrived in 1621 to trade in pepper.
The Langkawi Islands are also noted for their many legends. One of the most famous is that of Mahsuri, a lovely maiden married to the Chieftain's son. She was wrongfully accused of adultery with a wandering troubador and executed. As she lay dying she put a curse on the island -- that Langkawi would be barren for seven generations. Soon after, the Siamese (now Thailand) attacked the island and ravaged it. As evidently the seven generations have passed, now the island is a lush paradise with an abundance of flora and fauna. There is a mausoleum near the town of Kuah named for the unfortunate maiden.
Another of the many legends is centered in the main town of Pulau Langkawi (Kuah, meaning "gravy") . It is said that two giants spilled a pot of gravy (I wonder what kind of gravy?) at the spot where the town is located. The island's two highest mountains Mat Cincang and Mat Raya are named after the giants.
There are many quaint fishing villages on the islands, and mystical coves, caves and myth-haunted lakes as well as pristine beaches for the traveller who wants to just relax on a white-sandy shore. The water is ideal for snorkeling and diving where sloping reefs harbour an abundance of marine life or sunken wrecks to explore. Yachts and charter boats sail in the calm turquoise waters and you can go island hopping to some of the other islands, each with its own charm. The sea teams with fish so fishing trips can be arranged. There are many scenic destinations to explore too, including hot springs, rubber estates, padi fields where buffalos wallow lazily in the mud, rustic Malay kampongs. There's a crocodile farm at Geluk Datai where there are over 1000 crocs including several rare species, and alligators. There is also an abundance of birds and butterflies not found anywhere else in the world.
We will be staying on Langkawi Island for seven glorious days, lots of time for exploring or just relaxing in the sun on one of those beautiful white-sand beaches. If we can, we'll take a ferry trip to the island of Penang which is 100 K. south of Langkawi. It's known as Malaysia's "Pearl of the Orient" and was the first British trading post in the Far East. It's capital, Georgetown, has a unique blend of Eastern and Western cultures. Penang also boasts some famous beaches and coconut groves.
So, think of my travel buddy and me in a week's time, lazing in the tropical sunshine on these beautiful islands.
And watch for more stories and legends as we embark on this remarkable adventure!
I wonder why the tunes from The Pirates of Penzance keep running through my head?
Ever since I was a kid I've been fascinated with pirates. Beginning with my introduction to Capt. Hook in Peter Pan, the motely crew of Treasure Island and many others who I related to in a big way having an over-ripe imagination, I've studied about the pirates of the Caribbean (including a couple of notorious women pirates); cruised around in the waterways where pirates lurked in the Mediterranean and now, it's the pirates of the Adaman Sea in south Asia. So: Yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum! (or maybe a mai tai or two) Ahoy, matey! Avast ye land-lubbers! Come join my friend Ruth and me on our excellent island adventure!
There are 104 islands lying off the north west coast of Malaysia in the Adaman Sea. These islands, situated along a major trade route, have a long history as a refuge of pirates. Now they have become internationally known as a resort destination, ideal for a tranquil romantic holiday. With soft power-sand beaches, misty limestone hills and the age-old emeral green jungle forest as a back-drop, these islands are irrestistable.
Langkawi is an archipelago of 99 tropical islands. Historically, Langkawi, the largest of the island group, has attracted seafarers throughout the ages because it is located on the tradtiioanl spice route. Early references date to charts of the 15th C. when renowned seafarere Admiral Cheng Ho from China visited enroute to Malacca in 1405. Pepper and rice were the main produce of Langkawi then. The French General Augustus De Beaulieu, in the service of King Louis XIV of France, arrived in 1621 to trade in pepper.
The Langkawi Islands are also noted for their many legends. One of the most famous is that of Mahsuri, a lovely maiden married to the Chieftain's son. She was wrongfully accused of adultery with a wandering troubador and executed. As she lay dying she put a curse on the island -- that Langkawi would be barren for seven generations. Soon after, the Siamese (now Thailand) attacked the island and ravaged it. As evidently the seven generations have passed, now the island is a lush paradise with an abundance of flora and fauna. There is a mausoleum near the town of Kuah named for the unfortunate maiden.
Another of the many legends is centered in the main town of Pulau Langkawi (Kuah, meaning "gravy") . It is said that two giants spilled a pot of gravy (I wonder what kind of gravy?) at the spot where the town is located. The island's two highest mountains Mat Cincang and Mat Raya are named after the giants.
There are many quaint fishing villages on the islands, and mystical coves, caves and myth-haunted lakes as well as pristine beaches for the traveller who wants to just relax on a white-sandy shore. The water is ideal for snorkeling and diving where sloping reefs harbour an abundance of marine life or sunken wrecks to explore. Yachts and charter boats sail in the calm turquoise waters and you can go island hopping to some of the other islands, each with its own charm. The sea teams with fish so fishing trips can be arranged. There are many scenic destinations to explore too, including hot springs, rubber estates, padi fields where buffalos wallow lazily in the mud, rustic Malay kampongs. There's a crocodile farm at Geluk Datai where there are over 1000 crocs including several rare species, and alligators. There is also an abundance of birds and butterflies not found anywhere else in the world.
We will be staying on Langkawi Island for seven glorious days, lots of time for exploring or just relaxing in the sun on one of those beautiful white-sand beaches. If we can, we'll take a ferry trip to the island of Penang which is 100 K. south of Langkawi. It's known as Malaysia's "Pearl of the Orient" and was the first British trading post in the Far East. It's capital, Georgetown, has a unique blend of Eastern and Western cultures. Penang also boasts some famous beaches and coconut groves.
So, think of my travel buddy and me in a week's time, lazing in the tropical sunshine on these beautiful islands.
And watch for more stories and legends as we embark on this remarkable adventure!
I wonder why the tunes from The Pirates of Penzance keep running through my head?
Friday, March 10, 2006
RIMBUN DAHAN: A Tropical Garden Paradise
Friday, March 10/06
Nine more days and we're on our way! Today I fit everything into the suitcase and there was room to spare (for the shopping I plan to do!) Just a few more last-minute details to take care off before our departure.
The latest exciting news is the prospect of a special tour to a tropical garden paradise called Rimbun Dahan. I was told about this place by an on-line friend who is a botanist. He told me to check out their website, which I did: www.rimbundahan.org/about and he suggested I try and see the place. So I owe a big thanks to you, John. Otherwise I might have missed out!
I was immediately captivated by the photos of this beautiful 14 acre estate, located 27 miles outside of Kuala Lumpur. The compound of Rimbun Dahan is a center for developing traditional and contempoaray art forms. The buildings are designed by the Malaysian architect Hijjas Kasturi. As well there is a 19th C. traditional Malay house relocated from Perak and restored.
The main house merges modern and traditional materials and design that reflects the Malay house on stilts. The traditional house (rumah uda manap) features hardwood carvings by Chinese artists.
A 14 acre garden surrounds the houses using Malaysian style landscaping with indigenous plants, fruit trees, forest trees, herbs, spices and vegetable gardens, palms, orchids, as well as medicinal and fragrant plants. Angela Hijjas writes for the Malaysian Nature Society's magazine The Malaysian Naturalist based on her experiences with her garden. Within the garden compound there are various species of wild-life including many bird species, two types of monkeys: the ubiquitous long-tailed macaque and the dusky lanjur who like to hang out in the rambutan trees eating the fruit. There are also many lizards (some that grow quite large!) and occsionally wild pigs that appear after the rains.
The Rimbun Dahan Residency Programme is a token of appreciation to Malaysia and Australia
for the opportunities that have been provided for the architect's family. It is a program available to both Australian and international artists.
When I read about this garden paradise, I thought what a wonderful story it would make, so I requested a tour , and the Malaysian Tourism has offered us a special trip to Rimbun Dahan in return for me writing about it. I feel really privileged by this opportunity. It still seems almost unreal that I am actually going to Malaysia. This trip, which I won as a door prize at a B.C. Association of Travel Writer's gala, is a fantastic 'gift' to me. In exchange for this wonderful opportunity I want to write some special stories about this exotic country and all the marvelous adventures that await us. So stay in touch, because this is only the beginning of a truly amazing adventure.
Monday, March 06, 2006
MALAYSIA: The People and Customs
March 6/06
Two weeks from today we'll be landing in Kuala Lumpur after a very long flight from L.A. via Taipei (20 hrs. 40 mins with only a short stop at Taipei to change planes). Because of my interest in history, I've been reading up on the people and customs of Malaysia. What a fascinating country! One thing that intrigues me is the blending of the different cultures there and how the people live together harmoniously.
Historically, people have been meeting and mixing in Malaysia for more than 1500 years when the first traders of silk and gold came from China and India, arriving in the Bujang Valley. With the traders, Buddhism and Hindusim came to Malaysia. A thousand years later, Arab traders came to Malacca bringing the principles and practices of Islam. Later the Portugese, Dutch and British traders came.
The Malay are the largest ethnic group, accounting for over half the population and national language. Along with the oldest indigenous people, they form a group called bumiputer ("Sons" or "Princes of the soil." ) Almost all the Malays are Muslims. The traditional culture centres around the Kumpung (village) though now many Malays live in the cities.
The Chinese traded with Malaysia for centuries and began to settle there in the 19th century. They form about 35% of the population. Some began as miners or railway construction workers but today are regarded as Malaysia's buisnessmen. Most are Tao Buddhist and retain strong ties to their homeland.
The Indians have been visiting Malaysia for over 2,000 years but didn't settle in large numbers there until the 19th C. 10% of Malaysia is Indian. Their culture,with Hindu temples, cuisine and colourful garments is visible throughout the land.
The oldest inhabitants are the tribal peoples, making up 5% of the total population. They represent a majority in Sarawak and Sabah. They are known as Orang Asli (The Original People) and prefer to be catagorized in individual tribes (Kadazan). All of the Malay tribal people share a strong spiritual tie to the rain forest.
Malaysians enjoy meeting people from other countries and are known for their engaging charm and traditional hospitality.
There are certain formalities to observe, in particular greetings, but a friendly smile and polite nod of the head when being introduced is acceptable. The salam is the Muslim equivalent of a handshake (a young person clasps the hand of the elder) followed by the verbal greeting of "Assalamualaikum" ("Peace be upon you"). Physical contact beween opposite sexes isdiscouraged. After a salam, Malays touch the left side of the chest and then place their hand over the heart symbolising sincerity.
When dining, food is placed in the mouth with the fingers of the right hand. (the Left hand is taboos as it's used for toileting).
To say "thank you" say terima kasih (ter-ee-ma kah-say) or terima kasih banyak-banyak ("thank you very much) "Selamat" means "wish you a safe..." as in English "good")
selamat pagi - good morning.
selamat Petang - good afternoon/evening
selamat Malan - good evening/night
selamat Tingaal or Selamat Jolan - Have a good trip, goodbye.
Just as Canadians are known to tack on 'eh" as a suffix, Malaysians use "lah" and it's been absorbed into the English speaking culture of Malaysia as well, such as "relax-lah" ('chill out! calm down!) Sorry-lah, enough-lah, Dowan-lah (don't want to...)
There is also certain etiquette to be observed such as removing shoes when entering homes or places of worship; dress neatly in suitable attire which covers arms and legs when visiting places of worship; don't point your foot at someone; when giving or receiving money gifts to/from a Malaysia, do so with your right hand.
So, armed with this basic knowlege of the country and its people and customs, we wait with great anticipation for this remarkable adventure to begin.
Two weeks from today we'll be landing in Kuala Lumpur after a very long flight from L.A. via Taipei (20 hrs. 40 mins with only a short stop at Taipei to change planes). Because of my interest in history, I've been reading up on the people and customs of Malaysia. What a fascinating country! One thing that intrigues me is the blending of the different cultures there and how the people live together harmoniously.
Historically, people have been meeting and mixing in Malaysia for more than 1500 years when the first traders of silk and gold came from China and India, arriving in the Bujang Valley. With the traders, Buddhism and Hindusim came to Malaysia. A thousand years later, Arab traders came to Malacca bringing the principles and practices of Islam. Later the Portugese, Dutch and British traders came.
The Malay are the largest ethnic group, accounting for over half the population and national language. Along with the oldest indigenous people, they form a group called bumiputer ("Sons" or "Princes of the soil." ) Almost all the Malays are Muslims. The traditional culture centres around the Kumpung (village) though now many Malays live in the cities.
The Chinese traded with Malaysia for centuries and began to settle there in the 19th century. They form about 35% of the population. Some began as miners or railway construction workers but today are regarded as Malaysia's buisnessmen. Most are Tao Buddhist and retain strong ties to their homeland.
The Indians have been visiting Malaysia for over 2,000 years but didn't settle in large numbers there until the 19th C. 10% of Malaysia is Indian. Their culture,with Hindu temples, cuisine and colourful garments is visible throughout the land.
The oldest inhabitants are the tribal peoples, making up 5% of the total population. They represent a majority in Sarawak and Sabah. They are known as Orang Asli (The Original People) and prefer to be catagorized in individual tribes (Kadazan). All of the Malay tribal people share a strong spiritual tie to the rain forest.
Malaysians enjoy meeting people from other countries and are known for their engaging charm and traditional hospitality.
There are certain formalities to observe, in particular greetings, but a friendly smile and polite nod of the head when being introduced is acceptable. The salam is the Muslim equivalent of a handshake (a young person clasps the hand of the elder) followed by the verbal greeting of "Assalamualaikum" ("Peace be upon you"). Physical contact beween opposite sexes isdiscouraged. After a salam, Malays touch the left side of the chest and then place their hand over the heart symbolising sincerity.
When dining, food is placed in the mouth with the fingers of the right hand. (the Left hand is taboos as it's used for toileting).
To say "thank you" say terima kasih (ter-ee-ma kah-say) or terima kasih banyak-banyak ("thank you very much) "Selamat" means "wish you a safe..." as in English "good")
selamat pagi - good morning.
selamat Petang - good afternoon/evening
selamat Malan - good evening/night
selamat Tingaal or Selamat Jolan - Have a good trip, goodbye.
Just as Canadians are known to tack on 'eh" as a suffix, Malaysians use "lah" and it's been absorbed into the English speaking culture of Malaysia as well, such as "relax-lah" ('chill out! calm down!) Sorry-lah, enough-lah, Dowan-lah (don't want to...)
There is also certain etiquette to be observed such as removing shoes when entering homes or places of worship; dress neatly in suitable attire which covers arms and legs when visiting places of worship; don't point your foot at someone; when giving or receiving money gifts to/from a Malaysia, do so with your right hand.
So, armed with this basic knowlege of the country and its people and customs, we wait with great anticipation for this remarkable adventure to begin.
Friday, March 03, 2006
KUALA LUMPUR: THE GARDEN CITY OF LIGHT
Two more weeks and we're off to the Garden City of Light, Kuala Lumpur. I feel like Dorothy about to embark on her magical journey to Oz. Trip plans are all coming together and I just spent some time browsing an interesting Malaysian website, gleaning lots of background info and other goodies as I prepare for the trip, part of which will be a travel writing 'assignment'.
So here's some historical background about the fabulous Garden City of Light, K.L.
The population of Kuala Lumpur is 1.4 million (yr 2000 stats). It rose from nothing to a bustling modern city that began when 87 Chinese men in search of tin came up the River Klang and landed at a murky intersection between the Klang and Gombak Rivers. The name "Kuala Lumpur" means "muddy confluence."
The would-be miners found their fortune several miles East in a place now known as Ampang. However when the mines began to thrive, merchants brought supplies up the Klang River could only go as far as this muddy intersection so a town developed which is now Kuala Lumpur.
More than half those 87 pioneers died of malaria, but more prospectors came to K.L. and soon clans emerged leading to rivalries and claim disputes. (Sound like the Klondike?) In 1868 a man named Yap Ah Loy was elected "Kapitan China", leader of the Chinese community. He is popularly known as the founding father of Kuala Lumpur.
When a rift developed between Selangor's royal family over tin-mining profits, the British were asked to intervene. Under British rule, K.L. expanded and became the capital of Selangor in 1880 and in 1896 was made capital of the British protectorate Federated Malay States. The first town plan of K.L. was drawn up by Sir Frank Swettenham, a British resident. Some successful miners and merchants began to build bungalows along Jalan Ampay and when construction on the K.L.- Port Klang Railway began, the city never looked back.
Malaysia gained independance from the British on August 31, 1957 and K.L. was named the country's capital. K.L. is a cultural, racial and national melting pot. In 1998 it became the first Asian city to host the Commonwealth Games.
Because of it's beautiful parks, gardens and brilliantly lit ultra modern buildings it is known as the Garden City of Lights.
Next: social customs and other interesting facts about Malaysia.
Friday, February 10, 2006
READY, SET, GO!
"The use of traveling is to regulate imagination by reality and instead of thinking how things may be, to see them as they are."
Samuel Johnson 1709-1784 : From Mrs Prozzi, Anecdotes of Samuel Johnson 1786.
Today's exciting event was the arrival (by FEDex) of the plane tickets and hotel vouchers for Malaysia. Everything's all set now and in just a month (Mar. 19) we'll be boarding the plane for the long, long flight (20 hrs, 40 min from L.A. to Taipei to Kuala Lumpur). Most everything on the check-list is completed except for buying a new bathing suit and beach thongs. I've renewed my passport, paid for travel insurance and the extra days of hotel stay in Langkawi, had my Hep A booster (malaria not necessary, and that's good as these shots are expensive and not covered by my medical). It only remains to be seen how much spending money I'll have amassed by departure time, but as I've had some extra work lately it shouldn't be a problem. We can start getting excited now!
"Travel, in the younger sort, is a part of education; in the elder, a part of experience. He that traveleth into a country before he hath some entrance into the language, goeth to school, and not to travel." Francis Bacon 1561- 1626 Ibid "Of Travel"
I've traveled a lot, but never to S.E. Asia so this will be a totally new experience for me. Yes, an education in fact. I'm reading all I can about the places we'll be visiting and looking forward to my adventure into this unknown world of exotica. Of course I'm planning to do lots of writing about my travels so I will be making many notes and publishing blog up-dates here so long as we can locate Web cafes which I'm sure will be plentiful.
"Welcome to Kuala Lumpur: Where the old blends into the new, where rustic charm meets modern sophistication and pristine tracts of rainforest appear in the most unexpected places."
I noticed on the news tonight that there were Muslim demonstrations against Demark and U.S. in K.L. over those stupid cartoons that have cause world-wide strife. Here's another time I am so happy to be a Canadian! And you can bet I'll make sure I have my Canadian flag emblems in plain view. I think their president was wise in banning the cartoons from the country. They've already caused far too much trouble. I'm not anticipating any problems for us as we venture around the city and off to the islands. From all reports the Malaysian people are friendly and welcoming.
Some facts about Malaysia:
Country: Malaysia comprises Peninsular Malaysia and the sstates of Sabah and Sarawak in Borneo.
Geographical Location: It lies 2 - 7 degrees north of the Equator. Peninsular Malaysia is separated from Sabah and Sarawak by the South China Sea. The Peninsular shares a common border with Thailand in the north, while its southern neighbour is Singapore. Sabah and Sarawak are bordered by Indonesia while Sarawak also shares a border with Brunei.
Area: 329,758 sq km
Population: 25 million
Capital: Kuala Lumpur (KL)
People: Malays make up about 57% of the population, with Chinese, Indians and other ethnic groups making up the rest.
Language: Bahasa Melayu (Malay) is the national language but English is widely spoken. Malaysians also speak various languages and dialects.
Religion: Islam is the official religion but all other religions are practised freely.
Government: A Parliamentary democracy with a bicameral legislative system, with the Yan di-Pertuan Agong as Head of the State, and the Prime Minister as Head of Government.
Climate: Malaysia has a warm tropical climate. Temperatures range from 21C to 32C. Annual rainfall varies from 2,000 mm to 2,500 mm
History and Culture: Apart from the local Malays and other ethnic groups, immigrants from China, India, Indonesia and other parts of the world have contributed to the multiracial composition of its populaton. Its intersting cultural diversity is largely the result of the country's long and ongoing interaction with the outside world and colonisation by the Portuguese, Dutch and British. Its evolution into a cultural melting pot is evident in the unique blend of cultures, socio-cultural activities, traditions, languages and food. The country achieved independance on 31st August, 1957 as the Federation of Malaya. Malaysia was formed with the entry of Sabah and Sarawak in 1963.
(notes courtesy Malaysian tourist brochures)
We will spend three days in K.L. (all expenses paid) arriving via Taipei; this includes a half-day city tour. Then onward by plane to Langkawi island in the north for 3 days all expenses paid and tours plus four days at our own expense which we hope will include a day-trip by ferry to Penang as well as other sight-seeing ventures. We've been given a bonus night in KL on our return flight, arriving home April 1.
Langkawi: Come to Langkawi - an idyllic island resort where natural wonders abound, where y ou have time andspace to lie in the sun while nature rejuvenates yur body and mind, where serenity surrounds you and where tropical island dreams are made of. You can hear and see birds chirping away every morning, or squirrels playfully chasing each other from tree to tree. Lie back and listen to the melodic beating of waves against the sun-kiessed shores, or count the stars after dark. You are truly in nature's paradise.
The landscape of Langkawi is dominated by lush rainforests and limestone outcrops which abound with a wide variety of flora and fauna.
Langkawi's intriguing cultural tapestry is interwoven with folklore that has been passed down from generation to generation. The many myths and legends connect with different places reflect a strong tradition of storytelling.
Langkawi is blessed with geological marvels, among which is the legend-filled Telaga Tujuh (Seven Wells). Elsewhere are extraordinary rock formations and mysterious caves.
Langkawi abounds with quiet caves and bays with enticing beaches of white sand. Sloping reefs harbour a remarkable diversity of marine life. Its waters are ideal for sailing and other activies like snorkelling and diving.
Guess I better hurry and get that new bathing suit!
"As the Spanish proverb says 'He who would bring home the wealth of the Indies, must carry the wealth of the Indies with him.' So it is in traveling, a man must carry knowlege with him if he would bring home knowledge."
Samual Johnson 1709- 1784 Letter to Lord Chesterfield, Ibid, April 17, 1778
Samuel Johnson 1709-1784 : From Mrs Prozzi, Anecdotes of Samuel Johnson 1786.
Today's exciting event was the arrival (by FEDex) of the plane tickets and hotel vouchers for Malaysia. Everything's all set now and in just a month (Mar. 19) we'll be boarding the plane for the long, long flight (20 hrs, 40 min from L.A. to Taipei to Kuala Lumpur). Most everything on the check-list is completed except for buying a new bathing suit and beach thongs. I've renewed my passport, paid for travel insurance and the extra days of hotel stay in Langkawi, had my Hep A booster (malaria not necessary, and that's good as these shots are expensive and not covered by my medical). It only remains to be seen how much spending money I'll have amassed by departure time, but as I've had some extra work lately it shouldn't be a problem. We can start getting excited now!
"Travel, in the younger sort, is a part of education; in the elder, a part of experience. He that traveleth into a country before he hath some entrance into the language, goeth to school, and not to travel." Francis Bacon 1561- 1626 Ibid "Of Travel"
I've traveled a lot, but never to S.E. Asia so this will be a totally new experience for me. Yes, an education in fact. I'm reading all I can about the places we'll be visiting and looking forward to my adventure into this unknown world of exotica. Of course I'm planning to do lots of writing about my travels so I will be making many notes and publishing blog up-dates here so long as we can locate Web cafes which I'm sure will be plentiful.
"Welcome to Kuala Lumpur: Where the old blends into the new, where rustic charm meets modern sophistication and pristine tracts of rainforest appear in the most unexpected places."
I noticed on the news tonight that there were Muslim demonstrations against Demark and U.S. in K.L. over those stupid cartoons that have cause world-wide strife. Here's another time I am so happy to be a Canadian! And you can bet I'll make sure I have my Canadian flag emblems in plain view. I think their president was wise in banning the cartoons from the country. They've already caused far too much trouble. I'm not anticipating any problems for us as we venture around the city and off to the islands. From all reports the Malaysian people are friendly and welcoming.
Some facts about Malaysia:
Country: Malaysia comprises Peninsular Malaysia and the sstates of Sabah and Sarawak in Borneo.
Geographical Location: It lies 2 - 7 degrees north of the Equator. Peninsular Malaysia is separated from Sabah and Sarawak by the South China Sea. The Peninsular shares a common border with Thailand in the north, while its southern neighbour is Singapore. Sabah and Sarawak are bordered by Indonesia while Sarawak also shares a border with Brunei.
Area: 329,758 sq km
Population: 25 million
Capital: Kuala Lumpur (KL)
People: Malays make up about 57% of the population, with Chinese, Indians and other ethnic groups making up the rest.
Language: Bahasa Melayu (Malay) is the national language but English is widely spoken. Malaysians also speak various languages and dialects.
Religion: Islam is the official religion but all other religions are practised freely.
Government: A Parliamentary democracy with a bicameral legislative system, with the Yan di-Pertuan Agong as Head of the State, and the Prime Minister as Head of Government.
Climate: Malaysia has a warm tropical climate. Temperatures range from 21C to 32C. Annual rainfall varies from 2,000 mm to 2,500 mm
History and Culture: Apart from the local Malays and other ethnic groups, immigrants from China, India, Indonesia and other parts of the world have contributed to the multiracial composition of its populaton. Its intersting cultural diversity is largely the result of the country's long and ongoing interaction with the outside world and colonisation by the Portuguese, Dutch and British. Its evolution into a cultural melting pot is evident in the unique blend of cultures, socio-cultural activities, traditions, languages and food. The country achieved independance on 31st August, 1957 as the Federation of Malaya. Malaysia was formed with the entry of Sabah and Sarawak in 1963.
(notes courtesy Malaysian tourist brochures)
We will spend three days in K.L. (all expenses paid) arriving via Taipei; this includes a half-day city tour. Then onward by plane to Langkawi island in the north for 3 days all expenses paid and tours plus four days at our own expense which we hope will include a day-trip by ferry to Penang as well as other sight-seeing ventures. We've been given a bonus night in KL on our return flight, arriving home April 1.
Langkawi: Come to Langkawi - an idyllic island resort where natural wonders abound, where y ou have time andspace to lie in the sun while nature rejuvenates yur body and mind, where serenity surrounds you and where tropical island dreams are made of. You can hear and see birds chirping away every morning, or squirrels playfully chasing each other from tree to tree. Lie back and listen to the melodic beating of waves against the sun-kiessed shores, or count the stars after dark. You are truly in nature's paradise.
The landscape of Langkawi is dominated by lush rainforests and limestone outcrops which abound with a wide variety of flora and fauna.
Langkawi's intriguing cultural tapestry is interwoven with folklore that has been passed down from generation to generation. The many myths and legends connect with different places reflect a strong tradition of storytelling.
Langkawi is blessed with geological marvels, among which is the legend-filled Telaga Tujuh (Seven Wells). Elsewhere are extraordinary rock formations and mysterious caves.
Langkawi abounds with quiet caves and bays with enticing beaches of white sand. Sloping reefs harbour a remarkable diversity of marine life. Its waters are ideal for sailing and other activies like snorkelling and diving.
Guess I better hurry and get that new bathing suit!
"As the Spanish proverb says 'He who would bring home the wealth of the Indies, must carry the wealth of the Indies with him.' So it is in traveling, a man must carry knowlege with him if he would bring home knowledge."
Samual Johnson 1709- 1784 Letter to Lord Chesterfield, Ibid, April 17, 1778
Thursday, January 19, 2006
MALAYSIA: A Check List of Travel Preps
"Malaysia: A tropical paradise of immense charm."
The travel plans are rapidly taking shape now. Here's the checklist of things that were needed in preparation:
1) make sure the passports were in order. I had to renew mine as they need to be good six months after entry.
2) Immunizations: It appears we didn't need malaria shots, only Hep. A& B and upgrading of innocuations. I neglected to have my Hep A booster after my trip to Morocco a few years ago so I might need to start over. Have to check with the Travel Immunization Clinic.
3) Yesterday I paid for the extra 4 days at the hotel in Langkawi where we'll be staying. That's all done. And our flight itinerary has been issued.
It's a 20 hr 40 min flight via Taipei from L.A. Yikes. I find it hard to bear the 9 hrs flights to England I've made numerous times. Guess I'll see my doctor about some sleeping pills or tranqs.
4.) Travel Insurance. Found a good one that didn't cost an arm and a leg and covers everything for 13 days.
Now we're getting really excited! Besides all the other glowing things I hear, such as the amazing food, Malaysia is one of the worlds best international shopping destinations with a wide range of products, local and imported, available in the mega malls and markets. Note to myself: hone those bargaining skills! (Never was really good at it. When in Morocco opted to shop at the Artist's bazaar where prices were set.) And yes, ATMs are available.
First stop, glorious Kuala Lumpur. K. L. "The Garden City of Light" capital of the Federation of Malaysia, located centrally on the west coast.
Check out these hotels on google. com. In K.L. the Mandarin Oriental. Five star. Located in the Center of K.L. near the Petrona Twin Towers and the Philharmonic Concert Hall. Luxurious 643 room hotel situated on 50 acres of landscaped gardens. " Towering 452 m. above the city skyline, The Petronas Twin Towers, a gleaming architectural delight are currently the worlds' tallest free-standing towers, inspired by the Five Pillars of Islam and is the center piece of the ultra modern Kuala Lumpur City Centre. Situated within the towers is the Petronas Philharmonic Hall, home of the Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra and Petronas Performing Arts Group." Note: wouldn't it be great to see a concert there?
After our three days in K.L. we'll fly to the Island of Langkawi, a duty-free port situated at the crossroad of the Thai-Malay border within the Straits of Malacca and the Adaman Sea.
"Pulau Langkawi is the largest island in a cluster of 99 islands renowned for their legends. It's limestone hills and caves, rustic villages and scenic padi fields, abundant flora and fauna, as well as its enthralling legends make the island a truly idyllic tropical paradise."
We'll be staying at the Langkawi Lagoon Resort a five-star 162 room hotel built around a lagoon with traditional Malay villas built by the lagoon located by the Adaman Sea. The first three days of our stay are paid for and we extended our stay on the island an extra four days (our only cost).
Langkawi is the largest of an archepelago of 99 islands steeped in myth and legend with rainforests, ocean wonders, and exotic sandy white beaches. There's lots of local attractions including the Kuala Melaka River Park, a wet market, fisherman's jetty, sailing, canoing and island tours.
I was told today by a friend that the city of George Town on the island of Penang has some of most incredible colonial architecture. Penang is the "Pearl of the Orient", 112 kms south of Pulau Langkawi. The name comes from "pinang" the betel nut tree which grew in abundance here long before the British colonists arrived. Captain Francis Light discovered Penang in 1786 and it became the first British trading post in the Far East. It has one of the largest collections of 19th and early 20th century buildings in S.E. Asia. George Town is the state capital and the premier northern port of Malaysia. Hopefully we'll find a way to visit this old city for a day trip.
Now most of the important preps are done. I still have to buy a new bathings suit and hiking sandals and plan my tropical wardrobe. The next month and half is sure to go by very quickly!
The travel plans are rapidly taking shape now. Here's the checklist of things that were needed in preparation:
1) make sure the passports were in order. I had to renew mine as they need to be good six months after entry.
2) Immunizations: It appears we didn't need malaria shots, only Hep. A& B and upgrading of innocuations. I neglected to have my Hep A booster after my trip to Morocco a few years ago so I might need to start over. Have to check with the Travel Immunization Clinic.
3) Yesterday I paid for the extra 4 days at the hotel in Langkawi where we'll be staying. That's all done. And our flight itinerary has been issued.
It's a 20 hr 40 min flight via Taipei from L.A. Yikes. I find it hard to bear the 9 hrs flights to England I've made numerous times. Guess I'll see my doctor about some sleeping pills or tranqs.
4.) Travel Insurance. Found a good one that didn't cost an arm and a leg and covers everything for 13 days.
Now we're getting really excited! Besides all the other glowing things I hear, such as the amazing food, Malaysia is one of the worlds best international shopping destinations with a wide range of products, local and imported, available in the mega malls and markets. Note to myself: hone those bargaining skills! (Never was really good at it. When in Morocco opted to shop at the Artist's bazaar where prices were set.) And yes, ATMs are available.
First stop, glorious Kuala Lumpur. K. L. "The Garden City of Light" capital of the Federation of Malaysia, located centrally on the west coast.
Check out these hotels on google. com. In K.L. the Mandarin Oriental. Five star. Located in the Center of K.L. near the Petrona Twin Towers and the Philharmonic Concert Hall. Luxurious 643 room hotel situated on 50 acres of landscaped gardens. " Towering 452 m. above the city skyline, The Petronas Twin Towers, a gleaming architectural delight are currently the worlds' tallest free-standing towers, inspired by the Five Pillars of Islam and is the center piece of the ultra modern Kuala Lumpur City Centre. Situated within the towers is the Petronas Philharmonic Hall, home of the Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra and Petronas Performing Arts Group." Note: wouldn't it be great to see a concert there?
After our three days in K.L. we'll fly to the Island of Langkawi, a duty-free port situated at the crossroad of the Thai-Malay border within the Straits of Malacca and the Adaman Sea.
"Pulau Langkawi is the largest island in a cluster of 99 islands renowned for their legends. It's limestone hills and caves, rustic villages and scenic padi fields, abundant flora and fauna, as well as its enthralling legends make the island a truly idyllic tropical paradise."
We'll be staying at the Langkawi Lagoon Resort a five-star 162 room hotel built around a lagoon with traditional Malay villas built by the lagoon located by the Adaman Sea. The first three days of our stay are paid for and we extended our stay on the island an extra four days (our only cost).
Langkawi is the largest of an archepelago of 99 islands steeped in myth and legend with rainforests, ocean wonders, and exotic sandy white beaches. There's lots of local attractions including the Kuala Melaka River Park, a wet market, fisherman's jetty, sailing, canoing and island tours.
I was told today by a friend that the city of George Town on the island of Penang has some of most incredible colonial architecture. Penang is the "Pearl of the Orient", 112 kms south of Pulau Langkawi. The name comes from "pinang" the betel nut tree which grew in abundance here long before the British colonists arrived. Captain Francis Light discovered Penang in 1786 and it became the first British trading post in the Far East. It has one of the largest collections of 19th and early 20th century buildings in S.E. Asia. George Town is the state capital and the premier northern port of Malaysia. Hopefully we'll find a way to visit this old city for a day trip.
Now most of the important preps are done. I still have to buy a new bathings suit and hiking sandals and plan my tropical wardrobe. The next month and half is sure to go by very quickly!
Wednesday, December 28, 2005
I'M DREAMING OF A TROPICAL ISLAND NEW YEAR!
"Selamat Datan!" means "Welcome" in Bahasa Melaya, the national language of Malaysia. This greeting is reflected on the faces, expressed in the gestures and unrestrained friendliness of the people, reflecting the heartwarming charm and genuine hospitality of the country.
I've been reading some things about Malaysia in preparation for my trip there in March.
Some things I've found out: Malaysia is a melange, a mix of three distinct ethenticities: Muslim Malay, Chinese and Indian. Each group holds fast to its separate religions, languages and customs and cohabit in social harmony.
I've wondered about these various customs. Are women expected (as in Morocco) to dress discretely? But apparantly in Kuala Lumpur, Muslim Malay women covered in pastel-coloured headscarves and billowing robes are alongside Chinese teenagers wearing the latest Western fashions of bare arms and torsos. The variety of wardrobes in Malaysia make us Westerners look like 'an army of clones'.
As far as the language is concerned, children learn their parent's language at home, and Baha Malaya is the country's official language. Englishis taught at school, so there is a mix of languages. Their mastery of English is melodious and engaging.
We'll be staying three days in Kuala Lumpur in the luxurious Mandarin Oriental Hotel which is near the famous Petronas Twin Towers that stand an impressive 452 m.
In pictures, K.L. looks like a space age city. It has a 'garden city' ambience because the streets are adorned with trees and decorative shrubs. The buildings are colourfully lit giving the city a unique dazzle. There are many gardens and parks to enjoy and great shopping areas. For a historical writer like me, Colonial K.L. has a great many heritage sites, beautiful mosques and museums. We'll be escorted on a half day tour of the city and look forward to exploring on our own and practicing our bargaining skills in the markets. From what I hear about the food in Malaysia it doesn't seem practical to go on a diet before the trip as we'll certainly need to go on one afterwards. From all reports the food is simply a gourmet diner's delight.
Next we fly to Langkawi, located in the north near the Thai border in the Straits of Malaca and the Andaman Sea. This will satisfy my life-long dream to spend time on a tropical island.
Pulau Langkawi is the largest island in a cluster of 99 islands all renowed for their legends. There are beautiful sun-drenched beaches with brilliant blue water, limestone hills and caves, rustic villages and scenic padi fields. The islands are abundant with flora and fauna so there are many opportunities of ecological interest. I'm already fantacising about strolling on an idyllic beach in a new bathing suit and the bright new yellow sarong my daughter gave me for Christmas, along with its matching tote.
We'll be staying at the exotic Langkawi Lagoon Restort. When I saw the photos on the internet it took my breath away! We haven't begun as yet to descide what places we'll visit during our seven day stay on the island. There are many choices and easy access to other locations including Penang "The Pearl of the Orient". In the 1700's this island city was established as the first British trading post in the Far East and is now a bustling metropolis with a unique blend of East and West.
Wherever we go, what ever we do there I already know this visit will be on the list of 'most exotic holidays" I could ever dream of, something to really look forward to in 2006!
What a wonderful beginning to the New Year.
I've been reading some things about Malaysia in preparation for my trip there in March.
Some things I've found out: Malaysia is a melange, a mix of three distinct ethenticities: Muslim Malay, Chinese and Indian. Each group holds fast to its separate religions, languages and customs and cohabit in social harmony.
I've wondered about these various customs. Are women expected (as in Morocco) to dress discretely? But apparantly in Kuala Lumpur, Muslim Malay women covered in pastel-coloured headscarves and billowing robes are alongside Chinese teenagers wearing the latest Western fashions of bare arms and torsos. The variety of wardrobes in Malaysia make us Westerners look like 'an army of clones'.
As far as the language is concerned, children learn their parent's language at home, and Baha Malaya is the country's official language. Englishis taught at school, so there is a mix of languages. Their mastery of English is melodious and engaging.
We'll be staying three days in Kuala Lumpur in the luxurious Mandarin Oriental Hotel which is near the famous Petronas Twin Towers that stand an impressive 452 m.
In pictures, K.L. looks like a space age city. It has a 'garden city' ambience because the streets are adorned with trees and decorative shrubs. The buildings are colourfully lit giving the city a unique dazzle. There are many gardens and parks to enjoy and great shopping areas. For a historical writer like me, Colonial K.L. has a great many heritage sites, beautiful mosques and museums. We'll be escorted on a half day tour of the city and look forward to exploring on our own and practicing our bargaining skills in the markets. From what I hear about the food in Malaysia it doesn't seem practical to go on a diet before the trip as we'll certainly need to go on one afterwards. From all reports the food is simply a gourmet diner's delight.
Next we fly to Langkawi, located in the north near the Thai border in the Straits of Malaca and the Andaman Sea. This will satisfy my life-long dream to spend time on a tropical island.
Pulau Langkawi is the largest island in a cluster of 99 islands all renowed for their legends. There are beautiful sun-drenched beaches with brilliant blue water, limestone hills and caves, rustic villages and scenic padi fields. The islands are abundant with flora and fauna so there are many opportunities of ecological interest. I'm already fantacising about strolling on an idyllic beach in a new bathing suit and the bright new yellow sarong my daughter gave me for Christmas, along with its matching tote.
We'll be staying at the exotic Langkawi Lagoon Restort. When I saw the photos on the internet it took my breath away! We haven't begun as yet to descide what places we'll visit during our seven day stay on the island. There are many choices and easy access to other locations including Penang "The Pearl of the Orient". In the 1700's this island city was established as the first British trading post in the Far East and is now a bustling metropolis with a unique blend of East and West.
Wherever we go, what ever we do there I already know this visit will be on the list of 'most exotic holidays" I could ever dream of, something to really look forward to in 2006!
What a wonderful beginning to the New Year.
Friday, November 25, 2005
SEE THE WORLD WHILE YOU CAN!
"For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but go to.
I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move."
Robert Louis Stevnson 1850 - 1894 "Travels with a Donkey." 1878
The plans for Malaysia are taking shape. We're leaving some time in March. Six days of the trip are all expenses paid (first class!) and we will stay an extra four days on the tropical island of Langkawi at our own expense. So this is something exciting to look forward to over the Christmas season. A new destination, and somewhere I'd never have thought to travel to!
About a month ago I went to a media reception for Jordan Tourism. I've always been interested in the archaeological sites of the Middle East and in particular Petra, where a friend of mine has done some work. Browsing through the brochures I was amazed at the marvelous places there are to visit in Jordan. So I spoke to the tourism person at the meeting and she encouraged me to forward to her examples of my published work. I had decided that if a media "FAM" trip were available, since they are plannig to promote Jordanian tourism next year, then I would gladly accept an offer.
Then the bombs went off in the big hotels there and that was definitely a scare! Of course it may not happen again, but still...I'd have to think twice now, although if a courtesty media trip came up, could I turn it down?
Meanwhile, I have talked over some ideas to go back to Cuba next December for the jazz festival with my Havana Buddy, the one I met while there last December. I'd love to go back to Cuba and see a little more of that beautiful country.
Then, a few days ago, I was given another invitation which is one I feel I could not turn down...the trip of a lifetime, a sentimental journey for sure, to visit Chile. My friend A. who recently passed away was living here in exile from Chile and longed with all his heart to return. During his terminal illness I came to know his family, especially his wife and daughters. C. had flown up here to assist her girls in caring for their father. She and I became friends and she has invited me to visit her.
So many destinations...so little money to pay for travel...so I must choose. Lucky me that Malaysia is a 'gift' - a trip I won through the B.C. Travel Writer's Association. But come April when the tax refunds come in, I must make a choice of my next destination. I think it's going to be Chile.
I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move."
Robert Louis Stevnson 1850 - 1894 "Travels with a Donkey." 1878
The plans for Malaysia are taking shape. We're leaving some time in March. Six days of the trip are all expenses paid (first class!) and we will stay an extra four days on the tropical island of Langkawi at our own expense. So this is something exciting to look forward to over the Christmas season. A new destination, and somewhere I'd never have thought to travel to!
About a month ago I went to a media reception for Jordan Tourism. I've always been interested in the archaeological sites of the Middle East and in particular Petra, where a friend of mine has done some work. Browsing through the brochures I was amazed at the marvelous places there are to visit in Jordan. So I spoke to the tourism person at the meeting and she encouraged me to forward to her examples of my published work. I had decided that if a media "FAM" trip were available, since they are plannig to promote Jordanian tourism next year, then I would gladly accept an offer.
Then the bombs went off in the big hotels there and that was definitely a scare! Of course it may not happen again, but still...I'd have to think twice now, although if a courtesty media trip came up, could I turn it down?
Meanwhile, I have talked over some ideas to go back to Cuba next December for the jazz festival with my Havana Buddy, the one I met while there last December. I'd love to go back to Cuba and see a little more of that beautiful country.
Then, a few days ago, I was given another invitation which is one I feel I could not turn down...the trip of a lifetime, a sentimental journey for sure, to visit Chile. My friend A. who recently passed away was living here in exile from Chile and longed with all his heart to return. During his terminal illness I came to know his family, especially his wife and daughters. C. had flown up here to assist her girls in caring for their father. She and I became friends and she has invited me to visit her.
So many destinations...so little money to pay for travel...so I must choose. Lucky me that Malaysia is a 'gift' - a trip I won through the B.C. Travel Writer's Association. But come April when the tax refunds come in, I must make a choice of my next destination. I think it's going to be Chile.
Thursday, October 06, 2005
MALAYSIA: THE WHEELS ARE IN MOTION!
Yesterday I went by the Malaysian Tourism office and told them the dates we'd like to go -- between March 10 and April 1. I also explained we'd like to spend an extra four days on the islands. The woman suggested that as the hotels they put us up in are all five and six star that perhaps we might like a cheaper (but very nice) hotel elsewhere for a change of scenery. So she'll do the research for us and then we can choose. She also told me we can get to Penang easily from Langkawi so that's another option.
I feel it isn't just a 'dream' now, but closer to a 'reality'. I picked up a stack of brochures including walking tours of K.L., tips on shopping (she said to sharpen your bargaining skills as that's part of the custom). There's lots to see and do on the islands too besides the gorgeous pristine beaches!
Now one little surprise: I was told to make sure our passports are in order, and valid for at least six months after our stay there. Good job I checked today because mine expires April 16/06 which means I will have to apply for a new one soon! I had this problem a couple of years ago when I was heading for Greece and almost got turned back at the check-in desk because of the same reason. And I'd left my British passport at home because it also was almost expired. However, they informed me that the British passports were honoured past the expiry date. So I made a frantic call to my girlfriend who rushed over to my apartment to meet my son who had the keys and she got my British passport and raced all the way across town to the airport, arriving just a few minutes before I had to go to the boarding gate. I was so stressed out after that fiasco I was in a state and had a headache all the way to England. Then when I got there, they didn't even check anyhow and especially at the Greek customs. They just glanced at the passport and waved me through. I don't want to take any chances this time, however. So now the wheels are in motion I have to make sure everything is in order!
I feel it isn't just a 'dream' now, but closer to a 'reality'. I picked up a stack of brochures including walking tours of K.L., tips on shopping (she said to sharpen your bargaining skills as that's part of the custom). There's lots to see and do on the islands too besides the gorgeous pristine beaches!
Now one little surprise: I was told to make sure our passports are in order, and valid for at least six months after our stay there. Good job I checked today because mine expires April 16/06 which means I will have to apply for a new one soon! I had this problem a couple of years ago when I was heading for Greece and almost got turned back at the check-in desk because of the same reason. And I'd left my British passport at home because it also was almost expired. However, they informed me that the British passports were honoured past the expiry date. So I made a frantic call to my girlfriend who rushed over to my apartment to meet my son who had the keys and she got my British passport and raced all the way across town to the airport, arriving just a few minutes before I had to go to the boarding gate. I was so stressed out after that fiasco I was in a state and had a headache all the way to England. Then when I got there, they didn't even check anyhow and especially at the Greek customs. They just glanced at the passport and waved me through. I don't want to take any chances this time, however. So now the wheels are in motion I have to make sure everything is in order!
Tuesday, September 20, 2005
MALAYSIA: Planning the Dream Holiday
Some people win lotteries. I won a trip to Malaysia through the B.C. Travel Writer's Assoc. Six days, all expenses paid, first class. As everything except the air-fare is paid for two, I've invited my girlfriend to go along with me (because my sister couldn't go). We've decided on early March for a departure and we've also decided to extend our stay by four days, mainly on the island of Langkawi.
The first three days will be spent in the high-tech modern city of Kuala Lumpur. I've been doing a bit of research to psyche myself up and give a bit of insight into what we're likely to see/do while there. "Kuala Lumpur" means "a muddy confluence" and had its origins as a shanty miny outpost for tin trade in the 1800's. It's located in the state of Selangor at the convergence of two rivers. It has been the federal capital since 1974 and is a bustling metropolis, centre of commerce, politics, entertainment and international activities. You can visit the site of the original settlement where the British flag was finally lowered on Aug. 31, 1957 and replaced by the Malaysian flag.
The modern city boasts the magnificent Petronans Twin Towers, 452 m. as well as the Menara Kuala Lumpa, the world's fourth tallest building.
In spite of the ultra modern buildings, KL still retains old word charm, and buildings of the colonia ear still stand among the new. There's lots of museums and excellent shopping areas (prices are very low here in Malaysia) as well as night life and theatre events.
I'm looking forward to sampling the tastey cuisine which includes a tempting variety of local and foreign dishes. KL was once an oil palm plantationn so there's plenty of greenery, parks and botanical gardens to visit too.
Farther north, in the state of Kedah, known as the 'rice bowl of Malaysia' there are a number of interesting points of interests but our main destination will be the islands group of Langkawi, a group of 99 islands in the NW near Thailand. It's a freeport with lots of bargains for shoppers! There's a number of interesting points of interest here including a crocodile farm, hot springs and the idyllic beautiful beaches.
The Island of Langkawi is steeped in legend and there are fascinating places to visit, organized boat trips and many museums incluidng an Underwater World aquarium where you can view more than 5,000 kinds of marine life.
Kedah was once the cradle of an ancient civilisation. Recorded history shows that in the 5th c. AD traders plied the E-W trade routes stopping at the port of Kuala Muda. There are ruins of ancient temples where a Hindu-Buddist civilsation once existed.
Malaysia is a cultural melting-pot, multicultural/multi racial country made up of local Malay, native groups, immigrants from China, India, Indoensia and other parts of the world. In Colonial times it was occupied by Portugese, Dutch and British settlers.
The main religion is Islam but other religions are practiced freely.
My friend and I are excited about this trip. In particular, I am thrilled about the opportunity to spend time on a tropical island. So for the next few months look for more updates about this journey.
The first three days will be spent in the high-tech modern city of Kuala Lumpur. I've been doing a bit of research to psyche myself up and give a bit of insight into what we're likely to see/do while there. "Kuala Lumpur" means "a muddy confluence" and had its origins as a shanty miny outpost for tin trade in the 1800's. It's located in the state of Selangor at the convergence of two rivers. It has been the federal capital since 1974 and is a bustling metropolis, centre of commerce, politics, entertainment and international activities. You can visit the site of the original settlement where the British flag was finally lowered on Aug. 31, 1957 and replaced by the Malaysian flag.
The modern city boasts the magnificent Petronans Twin Towers, 452 m. as well as the Menara Kuala Lumpa, the world's fourth tallest building.
In spite of the ultra modern buildings, KL still retains old word charm, and buildings of the colonia ear still stand among the new. There's lots of museums and excellent shopping areas (prices are very low here in Malaysia) as well as night life and theatre events.
I'm looking forward to sampling the tastey cuisine which includes a tempting variety of local and foreign dishes. KL was once an oil palm plantationn so there's plenty of greenery, parks and botanical gardens to visit too.
Farther north, in the state of Kedah, known as the 'rice bowl of Malaysia' there are a number of interesting points of interests but our main destination will be the islands group of Langkawi, a group of 99 islands in the NW near Thailand. It's a freeport with lots of bargains for shoppers! There's a number of interesting points of interest here including a crocodile farm, hot springs and the idyllic beautiful beaches.
The Island of Langkawi is steeped in legend and there are fascinating places to visit, organized boat trips and many museums incluidng an Underwater World aquarium where you can view more than 5,000 kinds of marine life.
Kedah was once the cradle of an ancient civilisation. Recorded history shows that in the 5th c. AD traders plied the E-W trade routes stopping at the port of Kuala Muda. There are ruins of ancient temples where a Hindu-Buddist civilsation once existed.
Malaysia is a cultural melting-pot, multicultural/multi racial country made up of local Malay, native groups, immigrants from China, India, Indoensia and other parts of the world. In Colonial times it was occupied by Portugese, Dutch and British settlers.
The main religion is Islam but other religions are practiced freely.
My friend and I are excited about this trip. In particular, I am thrilled about the opportunity to spend time on a tropical island. So for the next few months look for more updates about this journey.
Friday, August 12, 2005
THE HISTORY AROUND US
The O'Keefe Mansion"The history of every country begins in the heart of a man or woman."
Willa Sebert Calter 1873 -1947 "O Pioneers!" (1913)
I've been interested in the Pioneer history of Canada since I was a child. Growing up on the Prairies at the end of the Great Depression, I was fascinated by the local Native bands who would troop into our small town. I used to fantasize about living back in the time of the early Pioneers or often pretend I was an Indian child. My first historical writings, when I was 12, were inspired by the long cross-Canada train trip my family made from Ontario to British Columbia, over the vast Prairies and through the majestic Rocky Mountains to the Coast. I began writing stories in lined scribblers, in pen or pencil, illustrated with my own drawings or pictures clipped from magazines to represent the various characters. I still have these early writings in an archives box.
There is history all around us. One only needs to take time to explore, investigate, research.
On a trip to the B.C. Interior last summer, my friend and I visited the historic O'Keefe Ranch.
Located in the Okanagan valley just north of Vernon, this was once the largest cattle ranch and the longest family operated ranch in the Province. It was founded in 1867 by Cornelius O'Keefe who, along with his partners, were driving cattle north to the gold fields from Oregon. Impressed by the vast fields of lush grass they decided to buy land and raise cattle themselves. By the turn of the century they owned 20,000 acres.
The ranch was self-sustaining and included not only the impressive mansion O'Keefe built for his growing family, but the first post office and first Catholic Church in the North Okanagan.
After O'Keefe's death in 1919 the ranch was operated by his youngest son Tierney O'Keefe, until 1967 when it became an historic site. Now you can tour around the Ranch and take a step back into Pioneer history. My friend and I spent a pleasant afternoon wandering around the Ranch. We were especially impressed with the mansion and its furnishings and the many other exhibits including a cowboy museum. I've written a story about the Ranch which I hope to market to local publications.
This weekend I'm heading up to the Okanagan again, this time to Shuswap Lake, new territory for me to explore. I took some time to investigate and located a couple of publications in the Public Library that outline the history and legends surrounding this Lake and the area where it is located. There's lots of material for another local history story.
It makes your travels more interesting if you take time to read up on the destination (local or afar) and find out the specific historical background of the place. Even in the city of Vancouver there are many historical sites to explore including some of the elegant Victorian mansions that have been turned into museums. The family stories behind those houses are fascinating. Recently my Memoir group visited the beautiful old Roedde House and I was amazed at the intriguing story of the Roedde family. I'd never have guess, nor would I have known this interesting bit of local history if we had not taken the time for that visit.
So get out there, look around, find out about the wealth of history around you!
Willa Sebert Calter 1873 -1947 "O Pioneers!" (1913)
I've been interested in the Pioneer history of Canada since I was a child. Growing up on the Prairies at the end of the Great Depression, I was fascinated by the local Native bands who would troop into our small town. I used to fantasize about living back in the time of the early Pioneers or often pretend I was an Indian child. My first historical writings, when I was 12, were inspired by the long cross-Canada train trip my family made from Ontario to British Columbia, over the vast Prairies and through the majestic Rocky Mountains to the Coast. I began writing stories in lined scribblers, in pen or pencil, illustrated with my own drawings or pictures clipped from magazines to represent the various characters. I still have these early writings in an archives box.
There is history all around us. One only needs to take time to explore, investigate, research.
On a trip to the B.C. Interior last summer, my friend and I visited the historic O'Keefe Ranch.
Located in the Okanagan valley just north of Vernon, this was once the largest cattle ranch and the longest family operated ranch in the Province. It was founded in 1867 by Cornelius O'Keefe who, along with his partners, were driving cattle north to the gold fields from Oregon. Impressed by the vast fields of lush grass they decided to buy land and raise cattle themselves. By the turn of the century they owned 20,000 acres.
The ranch was self-sustaining and included not only the impressive mansion O'Keefe built for his growing family, but the first post office and first Catholic Church in the North Okanagan.
After O'Keefe's death in 1919 the ranch was operated by his youngest son Tierney O'Keefe, until 1967 when it became an historic site. Now you can tour around the Ranch and take a step back into Pioneer history. My friend and I spent a pleasant afternoon wandering around the Ranch. We were especially impressed with the mansion and its furnishings and the many other exhibits including a cowboy museum. I've written a story about the Ranch which I hope to market to local publications.
This weekend I'm heading up to the Okanagan again, this time to Shuswap Lake, new territory for me to explore. I took some time to investigate and located a couple of publications in the Public Library that outline the history and legends surrounding this Lake and the area where it is located. There's lots of material for another local history story.
It makes your travels more interesting if you take time to read up on the destination (local or afar) and find out the specific historical background of the place. Even in the city of Vancouver there are many historical sites to explore including some of the elegant Victorian mansions that have been turned into museums. The family stories behind those houses are fascinating. Recently my Memoir group visited the beautiful old Roedde House and I was amazed at the intriguing story of the Roedde family. I'd never have guess, nor would I have known this interesting bit of local history if we had not taken the time for that visit.
So get out there, look around, find out about the wealth of history around you!
Monday, August 01, 2005
DREAMING OF AN ISLAND PARADISE
"I must down to the seas again, to the vagrant
gypsy life,
To the gull's way, and the whale's way where the
wind's like a whetted knife;
And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing
fellow rover
And quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long
trick's over."
John Masefield (18-78-1967) "Sea Fever" st. 3
I gave my memoir group a ten-minute timed writing assignment this week on the subject
"If you had a pair of ruby slippers like Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz where would you want them to take you?" This is what I wrote:
gypsy life,
To the gull's way, and the whale's way where the
wind's like a whetted knife;
And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing
fellow rover
And quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long
trick's over."
John Masefield (18-78-1967) "Sea Fever" st. 3
I gave my memoir group a ten-minute timed writing assignment this week on the subject
"If you had a pair of ruby slippers like Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz where would you want them to take you?" This is what I wrote:
Ruby Slipper Dreams of a Tropical Island Paradise
I've always dreamed of going to a tropical desert island. For several years I've thought of making a trip to the Cook Island in the South Pacific. Tahiti is my island paradise of choice, but I understand it's way beyond my price range.
Tropical desert islands have appealed to me since I was a child, sparking my wildest imaginings as I read books like Treasure Island and Mutiny on the Bounty. The musical South Pacific appealed to me too, because of Bali Hai.
I've often browsed through brochures and travel magazines, day-dreamed over photographs of brilliant turquoise seas lapping on pristine white beaches strewn with the occasional palm tree. My idea of a perfect vacation would be to live in a grass shack on the seashore on one of those tropical paradises.
The realization of this dream/fantasy may not be far off. The other day I was browsing the internet looking at sites about Malaysia. I've won a six day trip to Kuala Lampur and it includes three days at a place called Langkawi. Much to my surprise and delight, I learned that Langkawi is one of a group of tropical desert islands off the North East coast of Malaysia not far from Thailand. It isn't a well-known tourist spot as yet and obviously the Malaysian tourism is touting it as a possible destination. (It was sheltered and so escaped the destruction of the recent tsunami that devasted so much of the coastline and islands in that area.) I'll be a media guest of the Malaysian tourism and I knew they'll expect me to write something about this island group.
Now here's the dilemma. I'd hoped to go to Malaysia between mid November and mid January
however I've found out that's the rainy season and if you want to enjoy the beaches there, it's not a recommended time to go. Of course I wouldn't want a tropical rainstorm to spoil my long-dreamed-of trip an island paradise, so now I'm rethinking my trip plans. It looks like March will be a better time to go. At any rate, after all these years my dream is finally going to come true, and what's better: it's all expenses paid courtesy of Malaysian Tourism.
I might get to stay in a grass shack on a tropical beach after all. I just hope there won't be a danger of another tsunami!
"If there is a paradise on the face of the earth,
It is this, oh! it is this, oh! it is this." Anonymous.
Stay tuned for more about travelling to Malaysia!
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