ROAMING THE RIVER: A History and Culinary Trip Around Steveston B.C.

Early on a weekday morning I met with a small group of travel writers on a culinary tour of Steveston B.C. Our extraordinary journey began at the Steveston Seabreeze Adventures where we borrowed bikes for a ride along the Fraser River. Cycling the river paths and dykes of Richmond has always been something I’ve wanted to experience, and for just $7 an hour you can pick up a cruiser bike at Seabreeze and set off on an interesting scene and historical tour of this old fishing village. The paths are well travelled and flat so it’s an easy ride. You can also book trips here for whale watching and charter boats for deep sea fishing.

We set off to visit one of Steveston’s famous heritage attractions, London Farms, pedalling along the river path to the farm, just fifteen minutes from the town.

Richmond has been a farming area since 1862 and although today most of this rich farmland has been developed into residential areas, there are still some hardy farmers growing produce. You can tour some the this agricultural area by car (1 1/2 hrs) or by bicycle (2 1/2 hrs).

The London Farm overlooks the south arm of the Fraser River The original owners of the London Farm, were William and Thomas McNeely who first arrived in 1865. Charles and William London purchased 200 acres of McNeely’s farm in 1880. The present farmhouse was constructed in two parts from 188 - 1906. Charles London also built a small wharf known as London’s Landing where he shipped farm products and received supplies. The municipality of Richmond purchased the house and 4 acres farm in 1978 and it is now a designated heritage site.

The farm has a park-like setting with flower gardens, farm equipment, and even chickens. Weddings and other special events are held in the gardens. In the farm shop we were greeted by the delicious aroma of fresh baking coming from the kitchen. We were welcomed into the house and treated to tea in the dining room, and fresh scones and dainty goodies served by the gracious lady who is the volunteer baker.

Cycling back, we stopped to view eagles nesting in trees across the river, and views of the old heritage buildings. Steveston was once a thriving fishing village and a Japanese settlement. There is little left of the residences except one small house once the home of the Murakami family who lived at Britannia and operated boatworks from the late 1920’s until their internment in 1942. The house and boatworks have been restored and Mrs Murakami’s garden is still lovingly tended.

Just next door is the historic Britannia Shipyards and a guide toured us through explaining the various functions and tasks of the ship builders. There are still volunteers working alongside profession boat-builders at the Shipyards. The Britannia Shipyards is all that survives of a mix of canneries, boatyards and residences with some of the oldest heritage buildings found along the river. It began as a cannery in 1888 and later was converted to a shipyard repairing boats for the ABC. Packing fleet. There were originally over 90 structures. The Richmond Boat Builders, now used for boat construction and repair, built in 1933 still has its original steambox and a cradle to move boats onto and out of the water. The remains of walkways and wharves are all around the old cannery buildings. Each ethnic group had its own accommodations: First Peoples houses, Chinese bunkhouses, Japanese duplexes and these are displayed by pictures although some of the old buildings may still be restored.
We returned our bikes and had a look at the whale watching boats for hire at SeaBreeze Adventures. Then it was time for fish at chips at one of the most notable of Steveston’s chip shops, Pajo’s an award winning outside restaurant at the Government dock. The name originates from Pat and her former partner Joan who began the business in 1985. Pajos is a thriving family operated business. The halibut and chips there were the best I’ve tasted, all fresh products.

Next door is the big Gulf of Georgia Cannery, a National Historic site and museum with fascinating displays explaining the early canning processes. Built atop wooden pilings over the river, it is one of the few remaining 19th century salmon canneries on the B.C. coast. It commemorates the development of Canada’s West Coast fishing industry from the 1870’s to the present.

Our guide, Rob Hart, took us on a fascinating tour. The main building was built in 1894 and was one of the largest plants along the lower Fraser River. Described as a ‘monster cannery,’ by 1902 it was the largest cannery in B.C. Unfortunately the Depression brought a halt to the cannery’s operations in 1930, but during W.W. II it was reactivated for the canning of herring. The cannery also processed fish oil and meal up until 1979.

In the last few years, Steveston has become a thriving community of boutiques, fine restaurants, condo developments. The fishers still arrive at the dock each morning with their catches providing the local restaurants with fresh fish. Nowadays the restaurants, shops and cultural/historical and recreational tourism seem to be the main attraction here.

If an exclusive dining experience is what you want, I’d highly recommend Papis Italian restaurant. The restaurant has recently opened after a devastating fire in 2007 and there was another small crisis that day as a truck had backed into their gas line. In the true spirit of ‘the show must go on’, executive Chef/owner Ken Iaci prepared a delicious array of savory sea food delicacies and offered us a taste of the imported Italian wines.

Then it was off to the “River Queen”, where we were to take a narrated nature and historical tour of the Fraser River and Cannery Channel. Unfortunately the wind prevented us from sailing.

An artistically served meal at the Blue Canoe

One of the Steveston’s newest restaurants is the Blue Canoe located right by the river
on Bayview St. It has the ambience of a lakeside summer cottage. We were welcomed there by one of the new proprietors, Jim Van der Tas who generous offered an exquisite lunch prepared by executive chef Vincente Mabanta, truly a memorable dining experience which we enjoyed on the patio with a view of the fisher boats on the river.

During the afternoon we visited the Richmond Oval site, the venue for the long track speed skating events during the 1010 Olympics and Para Olympics Winter games. Then it was time for some leisure wine tasting at one of the Lower Mainland’s wineries, Sanduz Estate Winery, where were tasted the delicious wines made from grapes and local berries.


Our day of touring and dining ended at the Tapenade Mediterranean Bistro where we were served a full-course meal of their fresh Mediterranean cuisine including appetizers of chicken liver parfait, Tapeande and crostinis followed by mushroom soup made with truffle croutons and enoki mushrooms and a finally choice of braised beef short ribs or Queen Charlotte Halibut as an entree.

My day of roaming the river over and thoroughly sated, I headed back to the City again. I felt as though I’d been on a vacation. What a grand way to spend a day so close to home!

CONTACT INFORMATION:

Steveston Seabreeze Adventures:
12551 #1 Road, Bldg 42
info@seabreezeadventures.ca
www.seabreezeadventures.ca

London Heritage Farms:
6511 Dyke Rd.
londonhf@telus.net
www.richmond.ca/londonfarm

Britannia Heritage Shipyard
5180 Westwater Dr.
britannia@richmond.ca
www.richmond.ca/britannia

Pajos
www.pajos.com (There are also Pajos located at Gary Park Steveston and Rocky Point Park, Port Moody.) Season is early Spring to late Fall depending on the weather.

Papis Italian Restaurant
12251 No 1 Road
www.papis.ca

“River Queen” (and whale watching adventures)
info@vancouverwhalewatch.com
www.vancouverwhalewatch.com
Blue Canoe Restaurant
#140- 3866 Bayview St.
604-275-7811 or 604-271-5404
jvandertas@bluecanoerestaurant.com

Sanduz Estate Winery
12791 Blundell Rd.
604-214-0444
info@sanduzwines.com
www.sanduzwines.com

Tapenade Mediterranean Bistro
3711 Bayview St.
info@tapenade.ca
www.tapenade.ca

THE ECSTASY OF FOOD

When I was given the generous offer of a night’s stay at a heritage guest house and a dinner for two with wine and beer pairings at the Spinnaker’s Gastro Brew Pub and Guest House in Victoria, I knew who I’d invite to go along with me. As I don’t have a partner, I decided to ask my long-time pal and party buddy, Cheryl, a single parent who doesn’t have many opportunities to spend a ‘romantic’ weekend away.

We set off early on Saturday morning aboard B.C. Ferries and enjoyed a leisurely cruise, then drove from Swartz Bay to Victoria. It was still early morning so we parked and walked all around the shore-front trail, stopping for photo ops and a visit to the Ross Bay Cemetery. By noon we were hungry and headed across the Johnson St. bridge to West Victoria where Spinnakers is located. It was still too early to check into the guest house, so we sat out on the deck enjoying the harbor view and ordered a delicious lunch which included Cortez Island oysters on the shell. Little did we realize as we munched away at our burgers and chips that the dinner we were about to indulge in would far surpass any dining experience we could imagine.

By mid afternoon we checked into the lovely heritage guest house. Guests can stay at either the 1884 restored heritage house or the contemporary Garden Suites. Our Victorian style room with it’s large bathroom (that had likely once served as a sun porch), was graciously endowed with antique furniture and decor. A little card “Welcome Ruth and Cheryl” was set on the table along with truffles and two bottles of Spinnaker’s own

artesian mineral water.

Never having indulged in a wine and beer pairing dinner, we had no idea of what to expect. In fact, when we first arrived at the reception we were mistakenly ushered upstairs to the pub area. Then, someone came to inform us they were ‘waiting for us downstairs’ where we were seated by a window overlooking the Inner Harbor and a view of the Provincial Parliament Buildings across the bay. All our questions were soon answered though, when we were introduced to Brian Storen, Spinnaker’s award-winning sommelier. Congenial and gracious, Brian led us through the entire experience with stories and anecdotes and explanations of each beer and wine and the dishes that were presented, prepared by chefs Alison Ryan and Nigel Taylor

Dinner started with demi point whaletown oysters sprinkled with house brewed malt vinegar and yellow beet mignonette, paired with a glass of classic Wassail Mead, sweet as nectar. A taste of Spinnaker’s handcrafted India Pale Ale followed while we dined on a delicious salad composed of tomatoes and feta cushioned in a bed of organic field greens. This was accompanied by wine from Giordano Venturi wineries in Cobble Hill, locally harvested grapes , refreshing to the taste. Then there was Spinnaker’s Iceberg Ale, specially brewed during the Royal B.C. Museum Titanic Exhibition. This went well with the fresh Sablefish swimming in a stew of tomato and olive oil.

The artistically decorated plates kept coming, and so did the little glasses of beer and tastes of wine. All the ingredients are harvested locally including the 2006 Pinot Gris crafted from grapes of Naramata’s Kettle Valley Winery. The Cowichan Bay Farm duck accompanied by chef Alison’s special Dragon Fly Farms Spinach, Port Alberni pecorino cheese and Saanich Organics squash gnocchi.breast went down well with Spinnaker’s Belgian style Saison. All Spinnakers beers and ales are hand crafted and brewed with the finest imported hops and grain, and local ingredients in season such as farm fresh raspberries.

Were our appetites sated yet? Still several more courses to go, and our taste buds were dancing with excitement over all these savory and delicious delicacies. Averill Creek Vineyards 2006 Pino Noir was a perfect compliment to the braised pork tenderloin resting on fingerling potatoes and apples with rinds of Salt Spring Island Boerenkaas cheese along with cherry jus.

There was one more entree to go but we were stalled, and concluded our feast with a heavenly selection of dark chocolate truffles paired with camembert, along with Spinnakers’s Belgian Dubble, a mildly hopped, malty beer with a spicy dark fruit aroma. There were four selections on the dessert tray. A ‘hop scotch’ truffle was accompanied by Comox Wasabi Verdelait and a satiny Scottish ale; ‘just a little stout’ dark chocolate went well with the Titanic stout. And for the grand finale a nugget of Blossom’s blue cheese accompanied by a desert wine. Venturi Schulze’s beautiful Brandenburg #3 sent our palates into ecstasy with it’s nugatine, fig and citrus viscosity.

We didn’t need to have romantic partners for this memorable evening. Thanks to our attentive librettist, Brian Storen, and the creations of Spinnaker’s talented chefs, this was about as exotic and romantic as it gets. Never before (and perhaps we never will again) had we experienced such a lavish, exotic dining experience. Thank you, Spinnakers’ Publican, Paul Hadfield, for offering this opportunity for a truly memorable weekend!

Learn more about Spinnakers Gastro Brew Pub and Guest House at

www.spinnakers.com

SOME NEWS ABOUT A PHOTO COMPETITION AND NEW TRAVEL PLANS

As my blog readers know, I also edit/publish a new Travel e-zine TRAVEL THRU HISTORY
www.travelthruhistory.com
I'm thrilled with the response I'm getting from this site, including the excellent contributions of travel writing from all around the world.

One of my contributors, Paolo Fornari, has some of her photos in a contest and would appreciate you having a look. It's an interesting concept, this collection of photos. Here's a little blurb that Paola sent me to explain it:

Come and share how expat women see their itinerant lives!

Voting is open in the photography competition of the Italian section of expatclic.com. The aim of the competition is to build bridges between Italian women abroad, to communicate our life experiences outside our borders, to observe our host country and share it with our friends scattered around the world, and to transmit through images the feelings which surround expatriate living.

In order to vote, you need to register: it’s a simple procedure, and your data will be protected. You will receive no spam. It’s simply to avoid people submitting multiple votes: you can vote for up to three photos.

Simply go to: http://foto.expatclic.com/ then click on ‘registrati’. After that you can login, click on Il termine per l'invio delle foto è scaduto. Sono aperte le votazioni’, and vote!

Take a look. There's some wonderful photos on display there!

On the new travel plans news: I'm leaving on Tuesday for a road trip, by Greyhound, to California. It's been several years since I was there except for passing through LAX. The main purpose of the journey is to attend the graduation of my grandson Mike from the U. of Santa Barbara. But I decided to make it a real 'family reunion' trip, so I opted on taking the bus so I could stop first at San Francisco to visit my cousin Harold who I haven't seen in 30 years, and after the grad at Santa Barbara, I'll go on to Bakersfield to visit my Auntie. While I'm down there of course I'll keep my eye open for good travel stories, and I'll try to post on this blog so you can share in my adventures. Stay tuned! I'm anxious to get out of this cold, wet weather and I hear it's 80 in S.F. So I've packed my swim suit and sun-block and away I go, riding into the California sunshine!

MUSIC ON THE LAKE

In the heart of Stanley Park is a small lake known as Beaver Lake. The lake began as a shallow lagoon cut off from the ocean by the land and eventually turned into a barren and dry bog, then a forested bog and finally, about 10,000 years ago, a freshwater pond that we know today as Beaver Lake. Today the 'lake' is truning back to a bog which is covered with a lovely blanket of yellow water lilies. There are trails in the surrounding forest, one of them "The Beaver Lake Interpretive Trail. Along this interesting route you will experience the various ecosystems of Stanley Park. On Sunday, when my friend and I paid our first visit in years, there were dozens of ducks with their fluffy little ducklings providing entertainment for the visitors. A long-legged heron waded among the water-lilies searching for a snack. Red-wing blackbirds chirrped from the tall reeds. There couldn't have been a more appropriate or lovely setting for the event which we had come there to attend.

"Shafer on the Lake" was an afternoon concert performed by the lakeside by a vocalist, flautist, clarinet and trumper player celebrating the 75th birthday of eminent Canadian composer/librettist/artistic direct and environmentalist R. Murray Shafer. We took along a little picnic lunch and sat on a bench enjoying the strains of the music as it echoed back and forth across the still pond enhanced by the bird sounds. Quite an enjoyable way to spend the afternoon.

A little black squirrel came to join our picnic. He refused the carrot we offered him but chowed down on the scraps of chicken wings and kept coming back, standing up on his little hind legs begging for more.

After the concert ended we walked back along the trail, through the tall Douglas firs. There were wild flowers blooming along the path
and the tall ferns uncurling their fronds. It's certainly worth a visit to Beaver Lake and perhaps the next time I'll take along the "Interpretive Trail" brochure I picked up so I can follow along and see more of the flora and fauna that surround it.

A RAINY DAY HIKE IN THE LYNN VALLEY CANYON

It's been years since I last hiked in the Lynn Valley Canyon in North Vancouver. My friends were visiting from Germany this week and we decided, in spite of a steady drizzle of rain, to visit the famous canyon and suspension bridge.

The Lynn Canyon officially opened way back in 1912 once a streecr line was completed in North Vancouver. At that time, the canyon was officially designated as a municipal park. The suspension bridge also officially opened that year and became a popular visiting destination. It cost 10 cents to cross it back then and people would inch their way cross the wobbyly structure grasping the hawser, just as they do today, although the bridge has been reconstructed and is now a free attraction.

The narrow wooden bridge sways precariously 166 feet above the gushing white water of Lynn Creek. If you have a fear of heights, it's not recommended you cross, but if you want a small thrill, it's worth the experience. The more people using the bridge, the more it jiggles and sways, so hang on tight as you cross, and don't run! The bridge is 100% safe, but in the past there's always been some fool who attempts to jump from it or from the rocks above the Creek and ends up losing their life.

The view from the bridge is spectacular, especially at this time of year with a spate of gushing water coming down the canyon from the snow-melt on the mountains.

Once you cross there are various interesting hiking trails through the lush rain forest. The one we took was to Twin Falls, about a twenty minute hike through the forest at the canyon's edge to a wooden bridge that takes you back to the other side. Be aware that there are several flights of wooden steps to climb up and down, so if you're not in good shape, don't attempt it. There's also the famous 30 ft. deep pool where over the years people come to swim in the summer. I can recall doing so myself. But be careful and obey the safety rules or you could get swept away by the fierce currents when the water is moving fast.

The park is a total of 250 hectares. There are some guided tours starting from the Ecology Centre at the Park's entrance. The Ecology Centre opened in 1971 and has an informative display of flora and fauna and a Kid's Exploratorium.

In spite of the drizzle, we picniced along the way (I wish they had covered picnic areas where we could have taken shelter). You had to watch your step because of the slippery paths due to the rain. But in all, it was a refreshingly pleasant day's hike. I'll definitely go back another day during the summer when it's not so wet! There are always plenty of people on the paths, even in the rain, so you'll never be alone in the forest and so long as you keep to the designated trails it should make for a pleasant day's outing.

PARK FACTS:
It's free to go into the park, and parking is free. The Ecology Centre is open 10 a.m - 5 pm daily (closed weekends December to January)
For information call 604-981-3103
www.dnv.org/ecology

TO GET THERE:
Buses run from the Londsdale Quay. A short walk into the park is required.
Driving: take Upper Levels Highway (Highway 1) to Lynn Valley Road exit (19) Follow Lynn Valley Road NE past the Mountain Highway intersection, then continue to Lynn Valley Road to sign for Lynn Canyon Ecology Centre.

www.seethenorthshore.com/lynn/lynn.htm
www.findfamilyfun.com/lynncanyon.htm

SPIRIT OF THE ELDERS

There is a First Nations legend about three brothers who were shaman giants. They stood on the shore of ocean looking north across to the mountains. Two of these brothers were good shamans, the third was wicked. One of the good brothers threw a rock over the ocean which landed behind two boulders in a creek where people lived during the winter. This became a sacred potlach place where only shamans and spirit dancers were welcome. They gathered there to gain strength and courage from the clear water of the creek and the powerful rocks.

The second shaman brother threw a rock across the water where it landed on the seashore at a place where a mountain stream ran into the ocean. This stream was called Homulchesn. It was the summer home of the people who fished in the sea and hunted in the forest.

The wicked shaman was jealous of his good brothers and in his struggle to overpower them he was turned into stone in a place called Siwash Rock, where he remains standing to this day.

Soon after this, the elders of the Stolo people who lived at Musqueam near a mighty river, chose a princess from the Nanoose tribe as a bride for one of thier young men. According to tradition their first-born son was given the name Ki-ap-a-la-no. When the great explorer Simon Fraser first came up the river, Ki-ap-a-la-no was just a boy. Later he moved away into the valley of giant cedar trees near Homulchesn Creek where he became a great chief who was respected by all the people. The name of Homulchesn was changed to Capilano in honor of him. Ki-ap-a-la-no died in 1875 at the age of 83 years. He was succeeded by his son Lahwa who died twenty years later leaving no successors. The Squamish people chose Sahp-luh as their next leader. He married the great niece of Chief Kii-ap-a-la-no. In 1906 he became Chief Joe Capilano.

SPIRIT OF THE ELDERS con'td": CHIEF JOE CAPILANO

After Chief Ki-ap-a-la-no and his son died, the Squamish people chose Sahp-luh as their next leader. He married the great niece of Chief Ki-ap-a-la-no. In 1906 he became Chief Joe Capilano.

Chief Joe Capilano was a friendly man who gained a good reputation for helping the early settlers. Fifteen years earlier he was one of the two Indian guides who had led an expedition to discover the source of the Capilano River. He died in 1910, aged sixty. His wife Lay-hu-lette (Mary) lived for many years on the Capilano Reserve. She was a respected elder in the community. A wooden statue of her stands in the garden near the Suspension Bridge. On her back is a woven cedar basket in which she is carrying her baby son who later became Chief Mathias Joe Capilano. When Mary died in December 1940, she was over 100 years old.

Chief Mathias Joe became a renown carver and spirit dancer. In 1906 he visited England and was received at Buckingham Palace by their Majesties King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra. At this time he was introduced to the poet Pauline Johnson. They became good friends and when she came to reside on the west coat he told her many of the legends which she later retold in her books and poetry.

In the early 1900’s Chief Mathias Joe began carving totem poles at a spot under the Lions Gate Bridge where he lived until the early ‘50’s. One of his friends and fellow carvers was August Jack Khahtsahlano who was born in 1877 at the Squamish village of Snauq near the south end of the Burrard Street Bridge. August Jack was a respected elder and a great leader. He was a wise man, courteous and trustworthy and had a reputation as a natural historian, storyteller and spirit dancer. He and his elder brother Willie helped build the first suspension bridge across Capilano Canyon. He lived to be almost 91 years old and died in Vancouver, June 1967.

THE CAPILANO SUSPENSION BRIDGE: A Natural Wonder

The first suspension bridge was constructed in 1889. Chief August Jack Kahtsahlano and his brother Willie helped to build it. The original bridge was made of hemp ropes and cedar shake boards. It was known as “The Laughing Bridge” because of the sound the wind made as it strummed on the hemp ropes. George Grant Mackay was the first pioneer to live at the bridge site. His house, completed in June 1889, was the first house in what would some day become a prestigious residential area. Mackay later sold his property to wealthy German land speculator Bruno Stetzer, who authorized the building of a steel cable suspension bridge 450 ft. long. The new bridge was officially opened August 8, 904. It was constructed with two single strands of steel cable strung across the canyon and anchored to huge logs buried in the ground and mounded over with rocks and earth.

The Capilano property was sold to Edward Mahon, a Yorkshire man who came to B.C. in 1889 as a miner. He had established a camp called “Castelgar” named after his ancestral home in Galway Ireland. He was a 48 year old bachelor when he bought the Capilano site. When he married Lilette Rebbeck of Victoria, she and her mother and three Japanese servants moved to Capilano. The first pioneer baby born in the Canyon was a baby girl born to the Japanese servants in November 1910.

Mahon built the Teahouse in 1911 at a cost of $4500. It was situated 100 feet above the canyon near Mackay’s cliff house. The gardens were landscaped by the Japanese workers with the assistance of Mrs. Rebbeck who as a landscape designer and gardener. There were beds of daffodils, crocuses, primulas, roses, perennial plants, rhododendrons, azaleas and ornamental trees. Some of these original gardens still remain in the park.

By 1914 the park was a popular place for visitors. Electric trolleys and an improved ferry service brought people across to North Vancouver. From the ferry dock they walked two kilometeres up Capilnao Road to the suspension bridge. Later tour buses and taxis provided transporation for the sightseers. Motor clubs also included the Bridge in their outings. Mrs. Rebbeck prepared food and hospitality for her guests.

Because of its popularity, the bridge was reconstructed in 1914 and was advertised as “The Eight Wonder of the World.” The price of admission was only 10 cents collected by a gatekeeper. At this time,Mrs. Rebbeck lived alone in the cliff house. She raised goats and chickens and hired girls to help as waitresses. They lived in the Teahouse (now the Trading Post).

Because of rationing during the First World War, there was a lack of staples so fewer visitors came to the canyon. At that time the government enacted legislations for the serving and preparation of food in public eating places and Mrs. Rebbeck was given a license. A new gatehouse and store were built and when Mrs. Rebbeck married Mac MacEachran, the district fire warden and forest ranger, many new additions and expansion were made including the building of a pergola where light meals were served.
During the Great Depressions, two Danish carvers came to the canyon looking for work. Aage Madsen and Karl Hansen were hired by MacEachran who gave them lodgings in return for carvings. Some of these outstanding carvings are still on the grounds. One is the carving of Chief Mathias Joe’s mother. Chief Mathias Joe and other local Natives were invited to place totems in the park. These original totems are still in the park.

The Capilano Suspension bridge wa purchased from MacEachran in 1945 by a French restaraunteur Louis Henri Isadore Aubeneau. He also bought the MacEachran home which was situated across the road from the bridge. This is now the Bridge House Restaurant. During this time, the park became neglected and many of the carvings of Madsen and Hansen were covered with tar, supposedly to preserve them. In 1953 the bridge and park were sold to Douglas McRae who cleaned it up and made improvements. The Tea Room was reopened and a banquet room was built to accommodate weddings and receptions. In 1956 the bridge had major repairs with prestressed wire cables tested by British Wire Rope. Aaje Madsen came for a visit and was hired to restore his carvings.

In recent years, Stan Joseph, grand nephew of Chief Mathias Joe, has restored the park totems. Joseph, whose Squamish name is Sequilem was born on the Capilano Reserve in 1950 and has been carving totems since he was twelve. His work is internationally known. New totems have been added to the park. At the entrance is the magnificent Centennial Pole, carved by Stan Joseph.

The Capilano Suspension bridge is the oldest commercial tourist attraction in the Vancouver area. It embraces the cultural influence of the First Nations people and early settlers, Japanese and Europeans. It is an important legacy of this area’s history.

CAPILANO CANYON SUSPENSION BRIDGE: How It All Began

THE CAPILANO CANYON:
HOW IT ALL BEGAN

Early settlers began buying land in the Capilano Canyon in 1888. There were no roads into the area except rough wagon trails from North Vancouver up the Capilano River to the Vancouver Water Works Dam which was under construction in the second canyon.


The Flume Company was purchased by Edward Mahon in 1908 and was then leased to the Japanese in an unprecedented business transaction. At that time government rules prohibited Japanese and Chinese people from attaining success in the lumber industry. Mahon was respected by the Japanese for his fairness. In return they built him a little Oriental-style house which eventually became part of a community centre. They also cleared the land, and planted azaleas and rhododendrons imported from Japan, some of which are still growing on the boulevards of North Vancouver.

George Grant Mackay, an immigrant from Scotland, bought 320 acres of timbered land on the east side of the Capilano River. At that time there were no houses or farms in the area. Mackay built a cabin near the precipice of the canyon. Mackay became known as “The Laird of the Canyon.” He believed this forested wilderness should be enjoyed so he often invited his city friends to visit. The only transportation across the Burrard Inlet at that time was on the steamer boat “Senator”. This vessel could carry twenty passengers and occasionally horses and buggies. Because Mackay’s cottage was difficult to reach, most guests had to hike the strenuous six miles up into the canyon.

Eventually Mackay and his partners, A.P. Horne and R. MacKay Fripp of the Capilano Park Company, developed 4626 acres north of the first canyon for recreational purposes. They purchased the land at $1.00 an acre, timber value not considered, because they felt the forest should be enjoyed by everyone. Te first hotel was built by Mackay’s son in 1892. But Mackay’s plans to develop the park were curbed by the 1890’s Depression.

The Capilano Lumber Company established a mill at Sister’s Creek in 1890. Single bolt flumes were built to run through the first and second canyons linking with one farther along the river near the Mission Indian Reserve. The longest flume was completed in 1906. It ran from Sister’s Creek, nine miles down river, past the dame and into the second canyon. The flume was nearly 200 feet above the water clinging to the rock face amidst breathtaking scenery where white water tumbled over the rocks forming roaring rapids and salmon pools. Shingle bolts cut by Japanese workers were floated down to the mills and often daring boys would ride these bolts down the flume. Capilano Joe’s people and Japanese pioneers built this flume. Many of them were killed while the work was in progress and were buried high above the river on the canyon plateau.

CAPILANO CANYON SUSPENSION BRIDGE: CLIFFSIDE WALK AND TREETOP ADVENTURE

Here are the might giants of the forest, many of them hundreds of years old.

This is the Tree Top Adventure suspension bridge strung between the trees, high above the forest floor so you get a bird's-eye-view.

This was taken on the Cliffside Walk, a view of the Capilano Suspension Bridge.

CAPILANO SUSPENSION BRIDGE: Vancouver's Natural Wonder

TREE-TOP ADVENTURES

On Earth Day, Augusut 22, I was privileged to pay a special visit to the Capilano Suspension Bridge. It had been some time since my previous visit so I looked forward to my day of adventure in this beautiful canyon park.

There’s a lot to see and do in the Capilano Suspension Bridge area -- not just the thrill of walking over the swaying bridge high over the white water of the Capilano River below.
There are nature trails and Native carvings and many things to explore in the park.

As you enter, there is an interesting pictorial history of the Canyon and Suspension Bridge, which dates to 1889. And you can browse among the totem poles and other carvings which are the legacy of the First Nations people. Then you step on to the bridge, swaying 230 feet above the floor of the Canyon. At the midpoint of the span, you are 450 feet looking down into the rushing stream far below. You step off the bridge into the forest of cedar, Douglas Fir and hemlock. These towering giants began growing long before the first European settlers every stepped foot in North America.

I wandered along the Cliffhanger Walk first, taking in the sweet scents of the forest and the quiet beauty at the canyon edge. There are ponds teeming with trout and wild flower blooming in mossy glades. I spent a pleasant hour or two wandering the paths and enjoying the views of the Canyon. One of the biggest thrills was ascending the wooden steps to the Treetop Adventure, built in 2003, where an elevated timber frame suspension bridge is strung between the tall Cedars in a series of cable bridges suspended between platforms that reach as high as 10 stories giving you a unique birds-eye view of the forest below.

Back at the Trading Post, there are pricey souvenirs for sale. This is one of Vancouver’s most popular tourist destinations, and the entrance fee is about $25. I was lucky that day to have a media pass which enabled me to enjoy the whole day wandering around the grounds and forest. I took a picnic lunch and enjoyed a rest at one of the tables provided by the forest trail, but there’s a restaurant and snacks available on site. If you can afford it, it’s well worth the day’s adventure and a great way to celebrate Planet Earth!

ANOTHER FALLEN GIANT

The National Geographic Red Cedar

(photo from National Geographic)

The forest of Stanley Park has been home to many fabled giants. Besides the Hollow Tree, the once popular attraction of "The Seven Sisters" which artist Emily Carr painted, and the distinctive fir tree atop Siwash Rock, there was the National Geographic Western Red Cedar. The tree was named so because it was featured in the October 1978 issue of the magazine. This mighty giant had a circumference of 13.3 meters and was once one of the most impressive of the big Western Red Cedars of the park. Unfortunately it diminished over time, ravaged by storms and a lightening strike. Because it was topped by park staff, cutting it to a height of 39.6 meters the rainy coastal weather finally caused it to rot and in October 2007 it was uprooted in a wind storm.

Right across the road from the Hollow Tree, there is a path leading to Third Beach. The pathway cuts right through the centre of the giant Red Cedar's root base so you can get an idea of its immense size and girth. Alongside, the massive trunk of this forest giant lies in situ.

HOMAGE FOR A HOLLOW TREE

The Hollow Tree, circa 1910
(archives photo)

The famous old Hollow Tree, ne of the most famous landmarks of Stanley Park, is destined to come down. This tree, one of the Park's ancient treasures, has been a tourist and visitor's destination since the turn of the 20th century and is probably one of the Park's most photographed sites.

The venerable red cedar, reputedly over 1000 years old (older than the Magna Carta), has actually been dead for a few hundred years, and the hurricane force winds of November/December 2006 caused the supporting root base to splinter leaving the tree with a dangerous tilt. Like a famous old movie star, propped up to make her final appearance on stage, the hollow tree has been held up by cables, bolts and cement supports but now it seems futile to keep her erect. So the Parks Board has voted to lay her to rest. She'll be split up the centre so people can walk through her massive trunk and marvel at her girth and age, an ancient relic.

The tree was 12 meters around and 17 meters at the base and once towered over the other trees in the park. At the turn of the 20th century it was a popular spot to visit and photograph; at that time you could back a horse-drawn coach or car into its hollow. Now the aged tree has split even more with age and shrunk considerably. She has lost her grandeur.

I went to pay my last respects to this old Park giant. A fence surrounds her now, but there was a man inside, an engineer who was inspecting her so see if there was any possibility of saving her. He let me inside the fence so I could have my photo taken with her one last time. It was sad saying goodbye to this grand old lady of the forest, but her time has come.