A YEAR'S TRAVEL RECAP 2017

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to do much traveling this year because of a move mid-year to a new, more comfortable lodging. For most of the year I was working on a travel ebook of the Greek Islands for an American publisher (under contract), the same one who published my ebook ATHENS AND BEYOND. Because of the unpleasant situation in my apartment I couldn't do much other writing though I did accomplish publishing a couple of travel articles on EuropeUpClose.com Just when I was nearly finished the Greek Islands book the publisher suddenly disappeared and refused to respond to any of my emails. Consequently I have shelved the project and will consider doing it as an ebook myself some time in the future.

Once I got moved I was able to focus on travel and managed a three week trip direct to Athens. I spent three days on Naxos at the Maragas camping where I love to stay in the bed-tents. Then I took the fast ferry to Iraklion, Crete where I met with a writer/mentor friend who is an expert on the Minoans. Dr Jack Dempsey and I have been communicating since the 1990's but this was our first in-person meeting. This made my visit in Iraklion special. I also enjoyed a return to Knosses where I'd been a couple of times in the 1980's. Jack and I met at the famous Lion Fountain and then went to the Venetian Harbor for a seafood lunch and a wonderful long chat.

I went out to Knossos on the hop-on-hop off bus. It had started to rain but as we arrived the rain stopped so I had a pleasant afternoon wandering the archaeological site. It's expanded a lot since my last visit and I enjoy seeing everything but it would be so much fun to visit again with Jack!

Most of the wall paintings and artifacts are now safely protected and stored in the Archaeological Museum which is definitely worth a visit. I went there the next day, again on the bus, and also stopped by to pay my respects at the grave of writer Nikos Kazanzakis which is up on the city wall. Back in Athens I visited the lovely new Niarchos Centre where there is an opera house, theatre, library, computer room, vast gardens and green spaces all for the pleasure of the Athenians.

I also took several days to visit my friend on Salamina where we always enjoy exploring archaeological sites. My favorite is the monument to the soldiers of the Greek/Persian sea war which is located on the tumulus of the dead soldiers.

I spent most of time in Athens doing readings from my historical novels at the Canadian Institute, Athens Centre and Athens Community School. I always love visiting Athens and look forward to returning in 2018 for a longer time.

So the year has drawn to a close. I'm looking forward to more travels in 2018. Some of them may be local jaunts as there's lots of interesting things to see around the Province where I live on the West Coast of Canada. But my main focus will be returning to Greece via England, Wales and a visit to Germany to see family and friends. Safe and happy travels to everyone in this coming year!

FLYING ON A WING AND A PRAYER TO EGYPT

PART ONE: My Egyptian Adventures





It was with some confusion and a certain amount of trepidation that I found myself at the check-in counter of Egypt Air in Toronto on March 13. There had been no clear advice on the meet-up so I got there 3 hours ahead of flight time and waited. I had no idea of who I was to meet but I spotted a young woman with reddish blond hair who was carrying a back-pack and talking on her cell. I figured she might be one of us, and she was. This was Linda, who was to be one of my travel companions on this special media trip to Egypt courtesy of Egyptian tourism.

We waited together at the check-out area, and when nobody else showed up, we decided to go through to the boarding gate. We sat a while and Linda made some calls to the Montreal office of the trip organizer. He assured us that our contact, Marko was on his way by car from Montreal. Trouble was, there had been white-out conditions in Toronto when I had landed the night before, and I knew by TV that the highways were choked with snow and traffic.

Then I spotted a gentleman carrying a back-pack and camera equipment. He looked like a journalist, so I asked him. Yes, he was Yves, from Quebec. And where were the others? There were supposed to be six of us and we wondered if any of the others had arrived.

Once on the plane, Linda got seated next to another man who was with our group. He said that one of the women had herself bumped to first class. But where was Marko?

It was still a puzzle as I stepped off the plane 11 hrs later. Would I be abandoned in the Cairo airport? (Some of my friends had expressed this worry before I accepted this trip!) But no, there they were: Linda. Yves, the illusive Marko and the other two journalists. We were met by a handsome Egyptian tourism rep., Peter, who escorted us to the visa office and then to the boarding gates for our ongoing Aswan flight.

An hour later we touched down in Aswan and from the moment I stepped off the plane I felt that, at last, my adventure in Egypt was more than just a dream.



ASWAN

We were met in the airport at Aswan by Hanan Eldeeb, an Egyptologist who would be our guide through all the ancient sites along the Nile River. First stop: to view the High Dam. This dam is one of the most important achievements in the 21^st century in Egypt. The Dam was constructed between 1960 and 1970. The Dam is 3,830 metres long , 980 metres at the base, 40 metres wide at the crest and 111 metres tall. About 11,000 cubic metres per second of water passes through the dam per second. The Nile valley and delta benefit from this because due to an absence of rainfall, Egypt’s agriculture depends on irrigation and the high dam at Aswan releases water into the irrigation canals so it has had a significant impact on the economy. I was amazed at the size of the dam which separates the upper and lower Nile. Before the dam was built the Nile River flooded every year in the late summer. The dam provides protection from floods and droughts and helps increase agricultural and electricity production and provides employment.

Unfortunately, the dam flooded a large area and submerged several archaeological sites. Over 100,000 people had to be relocated and some of the archaeological treasures were moved as well.

One of these important archaeological sites is the Temple of Philae.  Our Egyptologist guide suggested that we should rest up and have lunch and then we would visit this unique temple on an island in the Nile. But first, we stopped by the gravel quarries to see the enormous unfinished obelisk that lies in situ in the quarry. These gravel quarries produce all the red granite used in the building of many ancient structures.  The unfinished obelisk, left where it was because the granite cracked marring it, was discovered in 1922. It would have weighed over 2.3 million pounds making it the world’s largest piece of stone ever handled by man.

Before we left to board the boat that would be our ‘home’for the next three days, we stopped to see the monument of the Arab-Soviet Friendship that commemorates the completion of the Aswan High Dam. The monument is dedicated to the Soviets who provided technicians and heavy machinery in the building of the dam. The coat of arms of the Soviet Union is on the monument along with the coat of arms of Egypt. This towering edifice was the work of Russian sculptor Nikolay Vechkanov.



(photo by Yves Ouellet)

And so, we were here at last, in Egypt, and very soon would board the cruise boat that would take us on a memorable adventure down the Nile River.

NEXT: The Temple of Philae

 

 

GREECE: EXPLORING THE MANI

GYTHION

The port of Gythion (Gythio) in the south Peloponnese is the gateway to what is known as "the Mani", a narrow peninsula that once could only be reached by sea.  I'll be starting out from here to explore the Mani and it's unique villages.

TOWER HOUSES

The Mani (which originally meant "dry" or "treeless") is part of the Taygetos mountain range which forms the western spine of the Peloponnese.  It's divided between the prefectures of Laconia and Messenia. Laconia was dominated by Sparta in ancient times. Homer refers to some of the towns in the regions and there have been artifacts from the Mycenaean period found here.  When Spartan power was destroyed in the 3rd century BC, Mani became a self-governing area until the Roman invasion.  Over the centuries the peninsula was fought over by the Byzantines, the Franks and the Saracens.  As a result there were many local wars until the Mani's autonomy was abolished in 1870.

The Maniots are known for their wild nature and their zealous safeguarding of family property and tower houses (pyrgospita) were built to protect the feuding families.  Many of these are now abandoned but some are being restored and occupied; some are offered as visitor accommodation.  The area attracts visitors who are interested in the Byzantine churches and Frankish castles. There are also many popular beaches.

THE MANI COASTLINE

The local people work as olive farmers.  There is some tourism during the summer near the beach areas but many of the villages are remote and have few inhabitants.  The area is known for its unique culinary products (glina or syglino) pork or pork sausage smoked with herbs such as thyme, oregano, mint and stored in lard along with orange peel)  It is also known for the world's best extra-virgin olive oil and local honey.

One of the well-known tourist spots are the Diros Caves where you can see stalactite and stalagmites.  These caves are partly underwater and can be toured in gondola-like boats.  Sounds like fun!

I will see if there are any tours out of Gythion but otherwise will just take a bus and tour the area, perhaps staying for a night along the way.  This unique area of Greece has always fascinated me so this is sure to be a highlight of this year's visit.

photos courtesy of Wikipedia commons

NEXT STOP GREECE: ALL THE OLD FAMILIAR PLACES

The Acropolis

Going back to Greece is like going home to me.  Since 1979, my first trip, I have spent countless days and months there, living in Athens from 1983 - 1987 then returning in 1989 for a long run of six month stints.  It's only been in recent years, since the double expense caused by the Euro, that I have been staying for shorter periods. This year, for only 3 weeks.  I actually intended to go back there to live once I retired from my daycare work, but in the end realized that to be in touch with the literary communities and since I was by then teaching classes in writing in Vancouver, it was best to stay put.  But my heart is, and always will be, in Greece and in particular, my Athena!

 #14 Vironos Street, Plaka (this is where I used to live)

Each time I return, I walk by #14 Vironos St. (Byron's Street) in the Plaka where I used to live. I touch the gate, peek inside the courtyard and reminisce about my life there.  I have so many memories of that little basement suite and the courtyard with all Kyria Dina's flowers, and the little spitaki where my dear friend Roberto used to live. Although Roberto, who was an artist from Argentina, and several of my other friends have now sadly passed away, I still have a circle of good friends and acquaintances in Athens, and that is another thing that draws me back there time and time again.  They are my Athen's family.

Some of the Athens gang and other family & friends from abroad at the Hill of Muses.

One of the things about Athens that I never get tired of doing is walking around all the old familiar places.  I know Athens well as when I lived there I did ESL classes with children all over the city.  I used the transit and often walked, even long distances.  So I am familiar with where most things are although there is always something new to explore and this year my friend Anna Britt and I intend to check out some of these newly gentrified areas just to see what's going on, as well as a chance to see something new.

View of the Agora from above (that's the Temple of Hephaestion)

I could walk some of those pathways blind-folded I know them so well, yet I never get tired of retracing my old footsteps.  The Acropolis and the Ancient Agora are of course two of the most significant areas in the Plaka.  I am so familiar with them that the first time I stepped into the Agora (1979) I had a deja vu experience that made me feel as if I had really been part of that ancient world.  I've had many such experiences in Greece.  Perhaps that is why I feel as if my soul is there.  I not only write about Greek ancient history, but I  have 'lived' it.

The Sacred Way that leads through the Agora up to the Parthenon on the Acropolis

The Plaka Square is in the centre of this oldest part of the city.  It's a hub of activity with shops and tavernas.  When I lived there, we used to hang out around Plaka Square but these days it is very touristic and much more expensive to dine there.  However, I usually go there to sit in the little square and sometimes for a special evening meal, although I've been told one of my favorite taverns where they had live music and Greek dancers is now closed. (Economics of breaking the strict laws?)

Plaka Square, Kidatheneon Street

The corner, fondly known as "The Dirty Corner" on Vironos Street by the Lysikrates Monument has now been turned into a posh coffee house.  When I write my "Life Below the Acropolis" stories, this place will be featured as there are many tales to be told about the events and people who used to hang out there in the 1980's. 

The once infamous "Dirty Corner", scene of many a Greek drama!

There's lots more to Athens besides the old area of Plaka (although this is the most interesting, it is also the most touristic).  I enjoy browsing around Syntagma Square, the National Gardens, and often walk down Panapistimio Street where the gorgeous Neo-Classical university buildings are located. 

In front of the University buildings.

And then there's Athens at night.  I love when it gets dark and the Acropolis is all lit up with a golden light.  The Plaka is bustling with activity. People are heading for the tavernas for their evening meals. The little squares are full of people out for their evening 'volta'.  Kids are playing in the squares while their parents sit and chat with glasses of ice cold frappe.  This is a part of Athens life that is so unique but often missed by tourists.  There is, however, a popular tourist activity, and that is to see the Athens Sound and Light show, performed at the site of the ancient Pnyx.  There you'll see a reenactment of the history of the city so it's well worth taking in.  There's also the Dora Stratou Dance Company performing traditional dances on Filoppapou Hill.  Athens is alive at night, especially during the hot summer days when it's the coolest time to be out and around.  But at any time of the day, the city has a living pulse. You can hear it and feel it.  And that's one of the things I love about being there.  For some reason, my whole life changes and I feel more 'alive' myself.  Yes, I guess I truly do have an everlasting love affair with this remarkable old city!

The Acropolis from the Tower of the Winds, Roman Agora

NEVER TAKE FOR GRANTED WHAT YOU ARE TOLD IS NECESSARILY ACCURATE

View of Pythagoria



It's pretty usual here in Greece to get mis-information from the locals and even from tourism people when you ask directions. Often it's a shrug, meaning "I don't know" or it's a wave of the hand and something like "10 meters down the road..."  etc.  This was info given to me when I arrived at Pythagorian on my quest to visit archaeological sites.  I was told I could walk to the tunnel (she neglected to say it was all uphill and 2 ks) and at Ireion I was told I could walk 'down the road' to the Temple, but there were no markings on that road she indicated. I would have done well right from the start to take Inka's advice and take cabs to where I wanted to get to. It would have been worth the euros and I'd have seen what I went to see in a more leisurely fashion.

Inka and I noticed the first day we arrived at Samos that the girl in the travel/ticket agency didn't seem to have a clue about the most common of sites we wanted info on, the temple of Hera.  She claimed there was no bus to Ireion (which there is) and was very vague about any information we requested.  She told me the boats were all full til Thursday so I booked a ticket for then.  I noticed later that the ticket was illegible, so the night before my departure I went to the ticket office to check if the time marked was "8" or "9".  "Nine" she said, and explained the ticket printer hadn't been working very well.  The tickets are always marked with the name of the vessel you are to sail on, as well.

As always, I got to the port well in advance. I'd noticed a big Naxos Mykonos ferry pull into the port at 8 am and there was a crowd waiting to board it.  By my ticket had a different vessel name printed on it so I was waiting for another boat to arrive, thinking I was on a different ferry line.  When it drew near to 9 am and no other ferry or other passengers appeared, I finally asked the port police and she said "That is your ferry! And you have 5 minutes to board!"  So I had to make a run for it lugging all my baggage and just made it on time. But I was so upset by this mishap that I was really shaken up.  Fortunately, for a change, the ships stewards were helpful with my luggage as in many cases they are surly and unhelpful.  I found a nice chair on deck and planted myself there for the entire 10 hour voyage.

Karlovassi, Samos



The trip back to Pireaus was pleasant, with the ship stopping at several islands including one sweet little unknown place that reminded me so much of Lala. And later a stop at Ikaria, the island where Ikarus wings melted and he fell into the sea.

We arrived at Pireaus at 7.30 and I discovered that we were at a part of the port that I had never seen before, quite a long distance from the main port.  There were no direction given and if anyone has ever been on those ferries you know what a mob scene it is getting luggage and disembarking.  I began to trudge along with my (far too heavy) baggage trying to find my way off the docks to the main street but each time I asked directions I got a shrug or a vague answer.  There was a young woman with a child and two big heavy pull-alongs trying to find her way too. I eventually lost track of her and felt so sorry I couldn't help her.  At last I asked another man who said something about a bus, and then I found a young woman who said yes, she was waiting for the bus.  Apparently there is a bus to transport you to the main port like there is at the airport.

So I finally got to the main street, thanks to this  young lady who gave me a helping hand, and then I somehow managed to find a phone to call Carol, got on the metro and headed for Petrolana station where she'd meet me.  I set my bag of souvenirs (and camera) down on the seat to put on my backpack and organize my pull-along with the camping gear and thank god I snapped to just in time to realize it was there otherwise I'd have left it on the train!

Anyway, I got off the train okay and there was Carol waiting for me. She has been so helpful and generous and I truly appreciated this as I was very exhausted from the travel and hassles by then.  So here I am safely in Athens again and waiting to hook up with my girlfriends.  So look for a few more adventures (though no more ferries on this trip!)