The Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum began in 1937 as the Museum for Non-Objective Art, but was renamed after its wealthy founder, a copper magnate, and was then refered to as a "Museum of Modern Art". In 1943 Guggenheim commissioned renowned architect Frank Lloyd Wright to erect a new museum, his first in NY. It took sixteen years to complete because of ongoing building restrictions, and by the time the museum was finally opened Wright was 88 years old! Unfortunately, the innovative concrete struction has been plagued by surface cracks almost since it's opening in 1959. Beginning in 2005 twelve layers of paint were removed and the building's concrete surface was revealed. The repair and repainting is expected to be completed by the end of 2007, in time for the building's 50th anniversary.
This is the only NY musuem as famous for its architecture as for its contents. Wright designed it as one single large room on one continuous floor that spirals, helix-like, on a ramp 432 M (473 yds) long. Visitors start at the top and wind their way down the whorl. The only natural light comes into the museum from the glass roof. There are no windows. It feels much like being inside a snail shell, certainly one of the most unique buildings I've visited.
The Museum puts on five or six special exhibits a year, many of which occupy the whole museum. There are a few permanent collections including those of Kadinsky, Jackson Polloak and paintings by Klee and Picasso and others shown in the extension rooms built in 1980.
The exhibit on show to Oct. 25 was titled "Thirty Years in Architecture" a most amazing display of work by the Iraq-born architect Zaha Hadid who is known as one of today's most innovative architects. Born in Baghdad in 1950, Zaha Hadid studied in Switzerland, England and Lebanon. She pursued studies at London's Architectural Association and later joined the Office of Metropolitan Architecture (OMA). She opened her independent practice in London in 1979 and got international recognition in 1982 for her submission The Peak which won a competition for a leisure club in Hong Kong. Although this project was never completed she has since then designed several other buildings and has been awarded the prestigious Pritzker Architecture Prize.
This was truly one of the most remarkable exhibits I've ever seen. Zara Hadid says "My ambition is always to realize theoretical projects that seem difficult at the time." Her designs are exciting and impressive. My favorite was The Dancing Towers" a model of the three towers she has built in Dubai that, instead of standing erect, intertwine with each other. Her designs distort perspective creating an unorthodox viewpoint with fractured forms that give way to fluid and undulating shapes.
By the time we returned to our hotel later that afternoon, we were both exhausted, our minds crammed full of all the wonderful and unforgettable sights we'd seen that day. It was our last night in New York. We'd only had a few days but we had savoured a delicious slice of what the The Big Apple has to offer.
The next morning we set off to do some shopping but unfortunately didn't make it to Macy's or Bloomingdales we we'd planned. Instead went to some local shops, then, because the day was hot, humid and we were tired of ploughing through the crowds in Times Square, we hung out in the hotel lounge sipping lemonade until it was time to board the shuttle to the airport.
That morning Seventh Ave was blocked off with a street market and Fifth Ave was blocked off with a long never-ending Labour Day Parade (all the trade unions). The cross streets were open but the whole thing created a traffic gridlock the likes of which we'd never witnessed before. Luckily the conceirge had suggested we take the 2.20 pm shuttle to JFK, allowing us plenty of time to arrive at the check-in. The traffic was literally bumper-to-bumper all the way out across the Queensborough Bridge. Strangely, we didn't notice any road-rage or horn-honking which the New Yorkers have been famous for in the past. I've learned since that the City had passed a by-law against horn-honking! We weren't too worried by the delays but one woman in the shuttle anxiously asked the driver at ten minutes to four when we'd arrive at the airport. We were still quite a distance away and her plane was due to leave at 4.45!
We got to the checkin in good time and I was impressed to see how well things went at JFK compared to the nightmare that was LAX when I'd returned from Malaysia in the Spring. We went through the security quickly, and had lots of time to relax in the waiting area before boarding our Harmony flight home at 7 p.m. Unlike LAX it's a bright, airy building and didn't seem to exhude the paranoid and hustle-bustle of L.A.'s infamous airport.
Recapping our short, sweet adventure in Manhattan: We had agreat time, saw lots, walked our feet off and had nothing but excellent experiences which left us impressed and happy.
There was so much more to see, and it would have been nice to have had a bit more spending money, but I managed -- spent it all to my last penny -- and have gained a wealth of memories.
I have to say a big thanks here to the B.C. Travel Writer's Association who provided me with the winning door-prize, to Harmony for the airline tickets, N.Y. Tourism for the City Tours and to all my friends who contributed to help make this a wonderful holiday in the Big Apple!
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Sunday, September 24, 2006
CRUISING AROUND MANHATTAN ISLAND: DAY FOUR, PART ONE
SEPT. 8/06
We were on the go early today, headed for the Port Authority (Pier 83 at the foot of W. 43rd St) a good walk from our hotel. Along the way we noticed a group of police officers from Toronto who had arrived that morning to attend a ceremony at Ground Zero. The city was beginning to fill up with visitors that weekend, most of them there to attend the anniversaary of 9/11. We had considered going to Ground Zero but changed our minds, because of the crowds, and decided it would be best to leave this emotional time for those who had come to mourn or pay their respects.
We had tickets for the Circle Line cruise around Manhattan Island, a pleasant three-hour boat trip which I'd recommend to anyone who's never visited NY before. The view from the water gives you a magnificent perspective of the city skyline, offering views of many different points of interest. That morning, as we slowed down nearing the Statue of LIbery, the guide pointed out the exact location where the World Trade Centre towers had once loomed over the other skyscrapers. Now there is a wide void, a chilling reminder of the tragedy of 9/11.
The little tour boat chugs down the shore of the Upper Bay, past the tall, impressive Statue of Liberty, circling around so you can get a good close-up view of it. The statue was given to the U.S. by the people of France in 1886 to commemorate the alliance of the two countries during the american Revolution. It was the work of of French sculptor Auguste Barthode with the help of Alexandre Gustave Eiffel who built the supporting framework. The statue's face is apparantly modeled after the scultpor's mother. She stands 152 feel high, the pedestal is another 150 ft., the uplifted arm holding the liberty torch is 42 ft. and the head is large enough for a couple of people to stand inside. I recall on my first trip to NYC in 1968 that I actually climb up inside the Statue to the observation deck which is the Lady's "crown".
Just a hundred yards north of the Statue is Ellis Island, the portal through which more than 12 million immigrants entered the U.S. between 1892 and 1954. The buildings on the island have been restored in 1990 and now house a museum.
The boat tour, narrated by an amusing and very informative tour guide, cruises up along the East River, under the Brooklyn Bridge, the Manhattan Bridge, by the former Brooklyn Navy Yard. The guide points of places of interest such as the wharves where "On the Waterfront" were film, and the berth where the Titanic was supposed to land. Along the East River we passed the splendid glass buildings of the United Nations, headquarters for almost 6,000 men and women from all over the world who carry on the work of the Secretariat of the General Assembly. You can actually get tickets to attend the General Assembly, free of charge.
Next to it is the home of Koffi Annan (one of my heroes) and just below, other notables such as the actress Signoury Weaver has a vine-covered house by the River. Farther along is Gracie Mansion, home of the NYC mayor. Apparantly this mayor who is a billionaire, does not reside there but has opened it for tours, and because of his wealth, has contributed his 'salary' to the City. Past here, the East River merges into the Harlem River, and the boat sails north through Hell Gate to the Hudson River, under the great lattice-work of the George Washington Bridge, by Riverside Park and all the docks of the big shipping companies where the great liners like QE II birth.
The cruise was certainly a highlight of our short stay in NYC and a refreshing way to spend a warm, sunny day away from the hustle and bustle of Times Square and downtown Mahattan.
We bypassed a tour of The Intrepid sea-air museum, the aircraft carriet docked alongside Pier 86. This ship wis a veteran of air and sea battles of the South Pacific during World War II and later Vietnamn and is now converted into a fascinating floating museum of naval history and technology. Instead, we headed uptown for a visit to the famous Guggenheim Museum.
(**See Day Four, Part Two)
We were on the go early today, headed for the Port Authority (Pier 83 at the foot of W. 43rd St) a good walk from our hotel. Along the way we noticed a group of police officers from Toronto who had arrived that morning to attend a ceremony at Ground Zero. The city was beginning to fill up with visitors that weekend, most of them there to attend the anniversaary of 9/11. We had considered going to Ground Zero but changed our minds, because of the crowds, and decided it would be best to leave this emotional time for those who had come to mourn or pay their respects.
We had tickets for the Circle Line cruise around Manhattan Island, a pleasant three-hour boat trip which I'd recommend to anyone who's never visited NY before. The view from the water gives you a magnificent perspective of the city skyline, offering views of many different points of interest. That morning, as we slowed down nearing the Statue of LIbery, the guide pointed out the exact location where the World Trade Centre towers had once loomed over the other skyscrapers. Now there is a wide void, a chilling reminder of the tragedy of 9/11.
The little tour boat chugs down the shore of the Upper Bay, past the tall, impressive Statue of Liberty, circling around so you can get a good close-up view of it. The statue was given to the U.S. by the people of France in 1886 to commemorate the alliance of the two countries during the american Revolution. It was the work of of French sculptor Auguste Barthode with the help of Alexandre Gustave Eiffel who built the supporting framework. The statue's face is apparantly modeled after the scultpor's mother. She stands 152 feel high, the pedestal is another 150 ft., the uplifted arm holding the liberty torch is 42 ft. and the head is large enough for a couple of people to stand inside. I recall on my first trip to NYC in 1968 that I actually climb up inside the Statue to the observation deck which is the Lady's "crown".
Just a hundred yards north of the Statue is Ellis Island, the portal through which more than 12 million immigrants entered the U.S. between 1892 and 1954. The buildings on the island have been restored in 1990 and now house a museum.
The boat tour, narrated by an amusing and very informative tour guide, cruises up along the East River, under the Brooklyn Bridge, the Manhattan Bridge, by the former Brooklyn Navy Yard. The guide points of places of interest such as the wharves where "On the Waterfront" were film, and the berth where the Titanic was supposed to land. Along the East River we passed the splendid glass buildings of the United Nations, headquarters for almost 6,000 men and women from all over the world who carry on the work of the Secretariat of the General Assembly. You can actually get tickets to attend the General Assembly, free of charge.
Next to it is the home of Koffi Annan (one of my heroes) and just below, other notables such as the actress Signoury Weaver has a vine-covered house by the River. Farther along is Gracie Mansion, home of the NYC mayor. Apparantly this mayor who is a billionaire, does not reside there but has opened it for tours, and because of his wealth, has contributed his 'salary' to the City. Past here, the East River merges into the Harlem River, and the boat sails north through Hell Gate to the Hudson River, under the great lattice-work of the George Washington Bridge, by Riverside Park and all the docks of the big shipping companies where the great liners like QE II birth.
The cruise was certainly a highlight of our short stay in NYC and a refreshing way to spend a warm, sunny day away from the hustle and bustle of Times Square and downtown Mahattan.
We bypassed a tour of The Intrepid sea-air museum, the aircraft carriet docked alongside Pier 86. This ship wis a veteran of air and sea battles of the South Pacific during World War II and later Vietnamn and is now converted into a fascinating floating museum of naval history and technology. Instead, we headed uptown for a visit to the famous Guggenheim Museum.
(**See Day Four, Part Two)
Thursday, September 14, 2006
MAMA MIA! WHAT A DAY! (Day Three, Part Two)
You see Pedi-cabs all over Manhattan and we'd been curious about them, so when the guy approached us in Central Park and offered his services for a pedi-cab tour to the Strawberry Fields, the Dakota Apartments, the Lincoln Centre and other sites along the way right to the discount ticket place in Times Square, for only $55 (plus tip) we agreed. And we certainly weren't sorry we did, nor did we begrudge the fare. After all, our City Pass tickets to all the other sites had been donated by New York Tourism as part of the prize I'd won, along with the airfare to NY. So we hopped in and off we went.
Straberry Fields is the living memorial to John Lennon set in the park opposite from the Dakota Apartments on Central Park West at 72ns Street where Lennon was slain on December 9, 1980.
Established in 1985, five years after the tragic event by his widow Yoko Ono who donated $1 million to the project, it grew into a peace memorial with contributions of plants and trees from countries all around the world. Known as the "International Garden of Peace" it is a round slab of black marble with the word "Imagine" set in a starburst of black and white mosaics, contributed by Italy. All around it are planted river birches from the Soviet Union, maples from Canada, cedars from Israel, daffodils from Holland, dogwood from the late Princess Grace of Monaco and other plants and trees forming a shaded bower around the memorial.
Across the street, the Dakota Apartments, built in the 1880's, designed by architect Henry Hardenberg for Singer Co. heir Edward Clark, was the first luxury apartment building in the Upper West Side of Manhattan and still probably the most famous apartment building in the city. Our pedi-cab driver, William, took us to the exact spot by the side entrance where John Lennon was shot down by a crazed assassin who had lurked by the building waiting for him to come out. That man is still in prison. Yoko Ono still lives in the Dakota and William pointed out the entire floor where she resides. Lauren Bacall also lives in the Dakota. Marily Monroe lived there for a time. Peter Tchaikowski did too. And Leonard Bernstein died there.
Boris Karloff's ghost is said to haunt the hallways.
We cycled down Central Park West toward the city centre, passing the Juilliard School, the most prestigious music institution in the country, which is located near the Lincoln Centre of Performing Arts, composed of many buildings that house permanent companies as well as venues for world class performances such as the Metropolitan Opera, American Ballet Theatre, NY City Opera, NY City Balley and NY Philharmonic. We were told by William that there are excellent jazz concerts at Lincoln Centre and we wished we'd had time to go back there one evening.
As it was, we were pretty thrilled to get a close-up look at the Met and while we were sitting there in the pedi-cab a man came along and asked if we'd like him to take our photo. It turned out he was one of the tenors from the opera company and he told us if we came there Saturdaywe could see a performance of Carmen for just $25. What a thrill that would have been! Unfortunately, so much to do, so little time!
Right across from the Lincoln Centre is the fabled Trump Tower, a black glass sky-scraper, and nearby is Columbus Circle with a tall statue of Christopher Columbus directing the traffic around it. It was thrilling to ride in the pedi-cab right in the middle of the New York traffic, weaving in and out. William dropped us off at TKTS (Times Square Theatre Centre) at Broadway and 47th St. so we could pick up our half-price tickets for a show. He recommended we see Mama Mia as he said he'd seen it three times and loved it. I'd always wanted to see this show too, as I enjoy ABBA's music and was curious to see how they would work it into a Broadway musical. So, without even having to wait long in the line we scored tickets for $76.
The tickets are generally sold for that night's performance and go from 25% to 50% discounts. Ours were 35% discount. We thanked William for his informative, interesting tour of Upper Manhattan, tipped him $10 and went back to our hotel to prepare for an evening at the theatre. We decided to dress for it, and treat ourselves to a lobster dinner at The Oyster Bar
then we headed off to the lovely old Cadillac Winter Garden Theatre for the evening's show.
NYC is the entertainment capital of the nation and here you can catch not only Broadway and off- Broadway theatre performances, but opera, musicals, dance, and shows from all over the world. (I was disappointed to find I'd be missing a performance of Aescylus' The Persians by the Greek National Theatre Company, peformed in Greek with sub-titles on Sept 15.) The city has hundreds of theatres, some of them dating back to the turn of the last century, and these include the many off-Broadway theatres such as those in Greenwich Village where the Pronvinceton Playhouse started up on MacDougal Street to show the works of a young playwright, Eugene O'Neill. These off-Broadway theatres became popular during the '50's and '60's, known as The Golden Years of Circle in the Square, the Theatre de Lys and the Cherry Lane Theatre. It was at these theatres that the late Geraldine Page rose to stardom, Edward Albee tried out his early work, and names like Ionesco, Beckett, Bertoll Brecht and Kurt Weill became household words. The longest running show on Broadway or off was The Fantastics that ran for over 30 years.
I had done some research on the current productions before going the NY, but we were happy we'd settled on Mama Mia! because, just as William had said, "You'll come out of there singing and dancing!" And we did! Mama Mia! What a day!
Next: A Circle Island Tour
Straberry Fields is the living memorial to John Lennon set in the park opposite from the Dakota Apartments on Central Park West at 72ns Street where Lennon was slain on December 9, 1980.
Established in 1985, five years after the tragic event by his widow Yoko Ono who donated $1 million to the project, it grew into a peace memorial with contributions of plants and trees from countries all around the world. Known as the "International Garden of Peace" it is a round slab of black marble with the word "Imagine" set in a starburst of black and white mosaics, contributed by Italy. All around it are planted river birches from the Soviet Union, maples from Canada, cedars from Israel, daffodils from Holland, dogwood from the late Princess Grace of Monaco and other plants and trees forming a shaded bower around the memorial.
Across the street, the Dakota Apartments, built in the 1880's, designed by architect Henry Hardenberg for Singer Co. heir Edward Clark, was the first luxury apartment building in the Upper West Side of Manhattan and still probably the most famous apartment building in the city. Our pedi-cab driver, William, took us to the exact spot by the side entrance where John Lennon was shot down by a crazed assassin who had lurked by the building waiting for him to come out. That man is still in prison. Yoko Ono still lives in the Dakota and William pointed out the entire floor where she resides. Lauren Bacall also lives in the Dakota. Marily Monroe lived there for a time. Peter Tchaikowski did too. And Leonard Bernstein died there.
Boris Karloff's ghost is said to haunt the hallways.
We cycled down Central Park West toward the city centre, passing the Juilliard School, the most prestigious music institution in the country, which is located near the Lincoln Centre of Performing Arts, composed of many buildings that house permanent companies as well as venues for world class performances such as the Metropolitan Opera, American Ballet Theatre, NY City Opera, NY City Balley and NY Philharmonic. We were told by William that there are excellent jazz concerts at Lincoln Centre and we wished we'd had time to go back there one evening.
As it was, we were pretty thrilled to get a close-up look at the Met and while we were sitting there in the pedi-cab a man came along and asked if we'd like him to take our photo. It turned out he was one of the tenors from the opera company and he told us if we came there Saturdaywe could see a performance of Carmen for just $25. What a thrill that would have been! Unfortunately, so much to do, so little time!
Right across from the Lincoln Centre is the fabled Trump Tower, a black glass sky-scraper, and nearby is Columbus Circle with a tall statue of Christopher Columbus directing the traffic around it. It was thrilling to ride in the pedi-cab right in the middle of the New York traffic, weaving in and out. William dropped us off at TKTS (Times Square Theatre Centre) at Broadway and 47th St. so we could pick up our half-price tickets for a show. He recommended we see Mama Mia as he said he'd seen it three times and loved it. I'd always wanted to see this show too, as I enjoy ABBA's music and was curious to see how they would work it into a Broadway musical. So, without even having to wait long in the line we scored tickets for $76.
The tickets are generally sold for that night's performance and go from 25% to 50% discounts. Ours were 35% discount. We thanked William for his informative, interesting tour of Upper Manhattan, tipped him $10 and went back to our hotel to prepare for an evening at the theatre. We decided to dress for it, and treat ourselves to a lobster dinner at The Oyster Bar
then we headed off to the lovely old Cadillac Winter Garden Theatre for the evening's show.
NYC is the entertainment capital of the nation and here you can catch not only Broadway and off- Broadway theatre performances, but opera, musicals, dance, and shows from all over the world. (I was disappointed to find I'd be missing a performance of Aescylus' The Persians by the Greek National Theatre Company, peformed in Greek with sub-titles on Sept 15.) The city has hundreds of theatres, some of them dating back to the turn of the last century, and these include the many off-Broadway theatres such as those in Greenwich Village where the Pronvinceton Playhouse started up on MacDougal Street to show the works of a young playwright, Eugene O'Neill. These off-Broadway theatres became popular during the '50's and '60's, known as The Golden Years of Circle in the Square, the Theatre de Lys and the Cherry Lane Theatre. It was at these theatres that the late Geraldine Page rose to stardom, Edward Albee tried out his early work, and names like Ionesco, Beckett, Bertoll Brecht and Kurt Weill became household words. The longest running show on Broadway or off was The Fantastics that ran for over 30 years.
I had done some research on the current productions before going the NY, but we were happy we'd settled on Mama Mia! because, just as William had said, "You'll come out of there singing and dancing!" And we did! Mama Mia! What a day!
Next: A Circle Island Tour
Wednesday, September 13, 2006
COSMIC COLLISIONS AND DINOSAURS: Day Three in NYC (part 1)
Thursday, Sept 8
During our short time in the Big Apple we managed to cover a lot of territory, and this was one of those days so I'll break it down into two parts for easier reading.
We made our way by subway to Upper Manhattan to visit the Guggenheim this morning, after sleeping in late, and arrived only to find it was closed on Thursdays. So we decided to walk through Central Park to the American Museum of Natural History instead.
This has to be one of the most famous Parks in the world, located between Ffth Avenue and Central Park North. The Park was laid out between 1859-1870 and designed by Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Veax. It was referred to as "The Greensward Project". It's a magnificent garden park, 19 acres in total, 5% of the total area of Manhattan, extending 4 kms in length and 500 meters wide.
When I visited NYC in '68 and in the mid '70's the Park wasn't a safe place to wander about, though in '68 I definitely went there and enjoyed strolling by the lake and visiting the Zoo. Since Guilliani's reign as Mayor, the Park has been made safe and is the most pleasant respite, a cool, green patch among Manhattan's concrete canyons. We wandered the shaded paths, enjoyed a bit of time to relax, hear the birds sing, breathe the fresh air. The park is popular with joggers, strollers, cyclists. You can rent bikes or go rowing on Conservatory Lake or have a picnic under the trees. And a romantic way to see the Park is by horse drawn carriage or pedi-cab.
The Museum of Natural History is only a short walk through the Park from the Guggenheim. It happened that our ticket included a show at the Hayden Planetarium as well, making it a very interesting morning and quite unexpected.
The Museum is another one of those magnificent historical NY buildings, and happens to be one of the greatest scientific museums in the world. Besides the impressive natural history collections and dinosaur halls, it includes the Rose Centre of Earth and Space, the Hayden Planetarium show, and other space exhibits such as the Big Bang Theatre which recreates the birth of the Universe. The Museum was founded in 1869 and it would take hours to see it all, so we focused on only a few of the exhibits.
First stop was the Hayden Planetarium show "Cosmic Collisions" a virtual reality experience that takes your breath away! The show "launches visitors on an awe-inspiring trip through space and time exploring the hypersonic impacts that drive the dynamic and continuing evolution of the universe." You witness collisions past, present and future including the creation of our Moon, a re-creation of the meteorite impact that ended the Age of Dinosaurs and "a nail-biting future scenario where humanity desperately attempts to divert the path of an oncoming asteroid on a collison course with Earth." Whew! It missed by a heart-beat!
After that breath-taking show finished we walked along the spiral "Cosmic Pathway" down to the main level, chronicaling 15 billion years of evolution of the universe, to the Hall of the Universe were there's a 15 1/2 ton meteorite, to the Hall of Planet Earth which focuses on the geological process of our home planet.
By the time we'd finished viewing all this brain-numbing, awesome stuff, we were a bit too exhausted to tour too much more of the museum, but we wandered through the displays of the African mammals and the outstanding dinosaur halls were there were immense reconstructed skeletons of every type of prehistoric creature immaginable. Wow! When you see those creatures up close and personal, it's amazing. A tall man would only come up to the knee-bone of one of most of them. Pretty scary!
After we finished that tour, we decided to take another stroll through the Park to find the Strawberry Fields memorial to John Lennon. And that's when another fine adventure began...
Part Two: Strawberry Fields by Pedi-Cab.
During our short time in the Big Apple we managed to cover a lot of territory, and this was one of those days so I'll break it down into two parts for easier reading.
We made our way by subway to Upper Manhattan to visit the Guggenheim this morning, after sleeping in late, and arrived only to find it was closed on Thursdays. So we decided to walk through Central Park to the American Museum of Natural History instead.
This has to be one of the most famous Parks in the world, located between Ffth Avenue and Central Park North. The Park was laid out between 1859-1870 and designed by Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Veax. It was referred to as "The Greensward Project". It's a magnificent garden park, 19 acres in total, 5% of the total area of Manhattan, extending 4 kms in length and 500 meters wide.
When I visited NYC in '68 and in the mid '70's the Park wasn't a safe place to wander about, though in '68 I definitely went there and enjoyed strolling by the lake and visiting the Zoo. Since Guilliani's reign as Mayor, the Park has been made safe and is the most pleasant respite, a cool, green patch among Manhattan's concrete canyons. We wandered the shaded paths, enjoyed a bit of time to relax, hear the birds sing, breathe the fresh air. The park is popular with joggers, strollers, cyclists. You can rent bikes or go rowing on Conservatory Lake or have a picnic under the trees. And a romantic way to see the Park is by horse drawn carriage or pedi-cab.
The Museum of Natural History is only a short walk through the Park from the Guggenheim. It happened that our ticket included a show at the Hayden Planetarium as well, making it a very interesting morning and quite unexpected.
The Museum is another one of those magnificent historical NY buildings, and happens to be one of the greatest scientific museums in the world. Besides the impressive natural history collections and dinosaur halls, it includes the Rose Centre of Earth and Space, the Hayden Planetarium show, and other space exhibits such as the Big Bang Theatre which recreates the birth of the Universe. The Museum was founded in 1869 and it would take hours to see it all, so we focused on only a few of the exhibits.
First stop was the Hayden Planetarium show "Cosmic Collisions" a virtual reality experience that takes your breath away! The show "launches visitors on an awe-inspiring trip through space and time exploring the hypersonic impacts that drive the dynamic and continuing evolution of the universe." You witness collisions past, present and future including the creation of our Moon, a re-creation of the meteorite impact that ended the Age of Dinosaurs and "a nail-biting future scenario where humanity desperately attempts to divert the path of an oncoming asteroid on a collison course with Earth." Whew! It missed by a heart-beat!
After that breath-taking show finished we walked along the spiral "Cosmic Pathway" down to the main level, chronicaling 15 billion years of evolution of the universe, to the Hall of the Universe were there's a 15 1/2 ton meteorite, to the Hall of Planet Earth which focuses on the geological process of our home planet.
By the time we'd finished viewing all this brain-numbing, awesome stuff, we were a bit too exhausted to tour too much more of the museum, but we wandered through the displays of the African mammals and the outstanding dinosaur halls were there were immense reconstructed skeletons of every type of prehistoric creature immaginable. Wow! When you see those creatures up close and personal, it's amazing. A tall man would only come up to the knee-bone of one of most of them. Pretty scary!
After we finished that tour, we decided to take another stroll through the Park to find the Strawberry Fields memorial to John Lennon. And that's when another fine adventure began...
Part Two: Strawberry Fields by Pedi-Cab.
Tuesday, September 12, 2006
GREENWICH VILLAGE: Day Two, Part Two
The first time I visited NYC, I went to stay in the West Village where my girlfriend lived. At that time I didn't know much of the history of Greenwich Village, only that this was where my litarary hero Jack Kerouac and the Beat Poets such as Allan Ginsberg had hung out during the '50's. I thought I'd died and gone to Beatnik Heaven. At that time the Village was at the height of Flower Power, and there was a lot of buzz about an event called Woodstock that was about to take place just outside of New York City. I had no idea what this was. I just knew I was there, walking around those tree-lined streets, sitting on the stoop in the evening, watching the crowds go by. My friend lived on MacDougal Street. I didn't know then that this was the street were Louisa May Alcott (Little Women) had also lived.
This time when I was preparing to return to NYC, I did some research, mainly about the literary history of the Village. I wanted to visit every home, pub and theatre where famous writers had lived and worked. Greenwich Village has always been a symbol of NYC's artistic and literary history. The Village was largely developed in the late 19th century so the streets aren't laid out on a grid system and have names rather than numbers. Washington Square was once one of Manhattan's first prestigious residential neighbourhoods. The Park was established 1828, surrounded by Greek Revival townhouses. Several of the oldest of these are still standing as is the Stanford White designed archway in the Park. Henry James lived here, also Edith Wharton. In the cluster of rooming houses on West 10th St. writers such as
ee cummings and Theodore Dreiser lived.
Eventually the Village attracted a more bohemian group of writers, among them Edna St. Vincent Millay, Walt Whitman, Mark Twain, Edgar Allan Poe, and O Henry. And during the 50's and 60's it was popular with the existentialists and Beat generation writers as well as poets like Dylan Thomas.
The Village was also the centre for theatrical experimentation. Playwright Eugene O'Neill got his start at the Provincetown Playhouse on MacDougal St. For over 40 years the Sullivan Street Playhouse was home to The Fantastics. And Edna St. Vincent Millay founded the Cherry Lane Theatre.
Nowadays the Village has become more upscale with trendy boutiques, antique shops, night spots and cinemas. We window-shopped as we walked through the shaded streets in search of
The White Horse Tavern which opened in 1880 and gained a name for itself in the late '50's as a haunt of Allen Ginsberg, Norman Mailer and poet Dylan Thomas. Inside, the snug little booths and polished wooden bar are perfect for the literary crowd to gather for discussion along with their pints. On the walls are portraits of Thomas who collapsed and died on the sidewalk outside the pub after imbibing a vast quantity of whiskey (the accounts run from 7 to 19 shots! Apparantly he was diabetic.)
We sat at one of the little tables outside and ordered burgers. Of course I had a pint of Guiness in honour of Dylan.
A few blocks from here on Bedford St. is Chumleys. It was a little hard to find because it used to be a speak-easy and there is no sign outside, just a big old wooden door with the number 86. Here's where Kerouac hung out. It's long been known as a writer's hangout. John Steinbeck used to come here too. And F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote part of The Great Gatsby here. It was also a favorite haunt of actor Humphrey Bogart.
I stepped inside only long enough to take a photo or two of the interior. The walls were covered with photos of authors and book cover illustrations. It's a dining place so the tables were full. If we hadn't already chowed down on the burgers we might have stopped here for a bite to eat and another pint. But it was time to head for The Village Vanguard for an evening of cool jazz.
This is one of the oldest jazz clubs in NYC and known as "New York's most prestigious jazz club". It's located in the West Village on Seventh Ave S. down in a dim-lit basement.
There is limited seating and though we'd booked our tickets ahead, we were advised to get there early to find a good table. We were lucky to get seated near the front. The $35 admission includes $10 toward your drinks. We ordered and sat back to enjoy the evening.
This show featured Paul Motian (drums), Joe Lovana (sax) and Bill Frisell (guitar).
One thing I liked about it was nobody talks while the performance is on so you can really enjoy the quality of the music. When the first show over you can pay another $10 to stay for the second show and this would cover your drinks.
We opted to leave and take the subway back to Manhattan, just in time to browse through Times Square enjoying the excitement of the night-time crowds, and stop of Lindy's for some of their famous cheese cake. Yum!
I have never tasted cheese cake like it! A thick, rich slab that melts in your mouth.
We got back to our hotel at midnight, exhausted but happy with our day. Even our misguided little adventure on the subway when we were heading for the Village, had turned out to be fun. (We took the wrong train in the wrong direction. The folks on the train were helpful and polite, showing us the way to go -- back to Times Square and then down a different set of steps to get the Downtown train. ) Remeber this about Manhattan: Central Park and north are Uptown.
Times Square is Midtown. Greenwich Village and south is Downtown.
Next: Dinosaurs at Central Park and a Pedi-cab ride to Strawberry Fields!
This time when I was preparing to return to NYC, I did some research, mainly about the literary history of the Village. I wanted to visit every home, pub and theatre where famous writers had lived and worked. Greenwich Village has always been a symbol of NYC's artistic and literary history. The Village was largely developed in the late 19th century so the streets aren't laid out on a grid system and have names rather than numbers. Washington Square was once one of Manhattan's first prestigious residential neighbourhoods. The Park was established 1828, surrounded by Greek Revival townhouses. Several of the oldest of these are still standing as is the Stanford White designed archway in the Park. Henry James lived here, also Edith Wharton. In the cluster of rooming houses on West 10th St. writers such as
ee cummings and Theodore Dreiser lived.
Eventually the Village attracted a more bohemian group of writers, among them Edna St. Vincent Millay, Walt Whitman, Mark Twain, Edgar Allan Poe, and O Henry. And during the 50's and 60's it was popular with the existentialists and Beat generation writers as well as poets like Dylan Thomas.
The Village was also the centre for theatrical experimentation. Playwright Eugene O'Neill got his start at the Provincetown Playhouse on MacDougal St. For over 40 years the Sullivan Street Playhouse was home to The Fantastics. And Edna St. Vincent Millay founded the Cherry Lane Theatre.
Nowadays the Village has become more upscale with trendy boutiques, antique shops, night spots and cinemas. We window-shopped as we walked through the shaded streets in search of
The White Horse Tavern which opened in 1880 and gained a name for itself in the late '50's as a haunt of Allen Ginsberg, Norman Mailer and poet Dylan Thomas. Inside, the snug little booths and polished wooden bar are perfect for the literary crowd to gather for discussion along with their pints. On the walls are portraits of Thomas who collapsed and died on the sidewalk outside the pub after imbibing a vast quantity of whiskey (the accounts run from 7 to 19 shots! Apparantly he was diabetic.)
We sat at one of the little tables outside and ordered burgers. Of course I had a pint of Guiness in honour of Dylan.
A few blocks from here on Bedford St. is Chumleys. It was a little hard to find because it used to be a speak-easy and there is no sign outside, just a big old wooden door with the number 86. Here's where Kerouac hung out. It's long been known as a writer's hangout. John Steinbeck used to come here too. And F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote part of The Great Gatsby here. It was also a favorite haunt of actor Humphrey Bogart.
I stepped inside only long enough to take a photo or two of the interior. The walls were covered with photos of authors and book cover illustrations. It's a dining place so the tables were full. If we hadn't already chowed down on the burgers we might have stopped here for a bite to eat and another pint. But it was time to head for The Village Vanguard for an evening of cool jazz.
This is one of the oldest jazz clubs in NYC and known as "New York's most prestigious jazz club". It's located in the West Village on Seventh Ave S. down in a dim-lit basement.
There is limited seating and though we'd booked our tickets ahead, we were advised to get there early to find a good table. We were lucky to get seated near the front. The $35 admission includes $10 toward your drinks. We ordered and sat back to enjoy the evening.
This show featured Paul Motian (drums), Joe Lovana (sax) and Bill Frisell (guitar).
One thing I liked about it was nobody talks while the performance is on so you can really enjoy the quality of the music. When the first show over you can pay another $10 to stay for the second show and this would cover your drinks.
We opted to leave and take the subway back to Manhattan, just in time to browse through Times Square enjoying the excitement of the night-time crowds, and stop of Lindy's for some of their famous cheese cake. Yum!
I have never tasted cheese cake like it! A thick, rich slab that melts in your mouth.
We got back to our hotel at midnight, exhausted but happy with our day. Even our misguided little adventure on the subway when we were heading for the Village, had turned out to be fun. (We took the wrong train in the wrong direction. The folks on the train were helpful and polite, showing us the way to go -- back to Times Square and then down a different set of steps to get the Downtown train. ) Remeber this about Manhattan: Central Park and north are Uptown.
Times Square is Midtown. Greenwich Village and south is Downtown.
Next: Dinosaurs at Central Park and a Pedi-cab ride to Strawberry Fields!
Monday, September 11, 2006
THE BIG APPLE, Day Two: Art and Architecture
Wednesday, Sept. 6
The first thing this morning we went across the road to Benash's Deli/Restaurant and had a typical N.Y. nosh: bagels and cream cheese. (Absolutely the best!)
Manhattan alone has over 4,000 restaurants with a wide range fo food, flavours and prices from hot-dogs to haut-cuisine. If you're a foodie you'll find everything to suit your tastes and you could actually make your stay in NYC a culinary tour. No trip here is complete without sampling the quintessential NY fare such as bagels and cream cheese or the famous cheese cake (we'd visit Lindy's later that day but I never did get to sample a corned beef on rye sandwich or a hot-dog which was first introduced on Coney Island.)
The legendary Carnegie Hall was right across the street from our hotel so we spent some time browsing around reading the play-bills. There aren't any performances until next month and if we'd known we could have taken a tour of the Hall. The premier concert here was conducted by Tchaikovsky; the NY Philharmonic played here in the heyday of Mahler, Toscanini, Stokovwski and Bernstein. A concert date here is recognized as a mark of supreme artistry. Nowadays it also hosts pop concerts as well as classical.
A short walk away is MOMA, the Museum of Modern Art. Originally founded in 1929, it is devoted exclusively to modern art from the late 19th C. The new museum opened in 1984 and has been recently renovated. Famous paintings hang here from the Impressionists to those by Cubists and the Pop Artists such as Andy Warhol. Currently there is an exhibit of Dada artists.
We spent some time browsing in the Sculpture Garden before going inside to see the other exhibits. There are sculptures by Aristide Maillot, Gaston Lachaise, Henry Moore and my favorite, a little nanny goat cast in bronze by Pablo Picasso. As well there is a bronze wall by Henri Matisse.
As I'm most fond of the Impressionist painters I was especially thrilled to view Van Gogh's "Starry Night", Monet's "Water Lilies" as well as others. There were several of Picasso's works including "Demoiselles d'Avignon". I'm not much of a Jackson Pollock fan but it's interesting to view these famous artists' work.
We ate lunch at the MOMA and then walked over to look at Rockefeller Centre. This is one of Manhattan's landmarks, a masterpiece of Art Deco idealism, erected in 1930 and designated as as historic landmark in 1988. It's the world's largest privately owned buisness-entertainment centre composed of 18 buildings on 21 acres on Fifth Avenue between 49th and 50th Streets. You enter via the slope of the Promenade to the Channel Gardens which leads to the Lower plaza where the famous ice skating rink is located in winter, and al fresco dining in summer. All around flutter the flags of U.N. member countries and in the centre is the imposing gilded bronze statue of Prometheus by sculputor Paul Manship. Just behind Prometheus is where the city's magestic Christmas tree towers over the ice rink during December and early January.
The architecture in New York is amazing and, like in London, you must walk around constantly looking up so as not to miss any of the abundance of architecutral treasures from the shiny glass and steel sky-scrapers to the Gothic revival spires of St. Patrick's Cathedral, the Beaux Arts of Grand Central Terminal, the Art Deco of the Chrysler Building and many other historic buildings. There are a total of nineteen Art Deco buildings between Fifth and Seventh Avenues at 48th and 51 Sts alone, all clustered around the Radio City Music Hall with its ornate facades
that are a virtual musuem of sculpture, bas-relief, gilding, mosaics, carvings and moldings.
I had made a list of historic houses and apartments I wanted to see, most notably those that had once been the homes of famous writers, musicians or actors, but unfortunately time did not permit me to see many of them. On another trip to NYC I'd definitely plan to take a historic buildings tour because there's just so much to see in this city that is so rich with history.
Later that afternoon we would venture forth on our first subway ride which would take us to Greenwich Village. I'll write a seperate blog about the Village because that's where I stayed when I first visited NYC in 1968 so for me it would be a nostalgic visit.
The first thing this morning we went across the road to Benash's Deli/Restaurant and had a typical N.Y. nosh: bagels and cream cheese. (Absolutely the best!)
Manhattan alone has over 4,000 restaurants with a wide range fo food, flavours and prices from hot-dogs to haut-cuisine. If you're a foodie you'll find everything to suit your tastes and you could actually make your stay in NYC a culinary tour. No trip here is complete without sampling the quintessential NY fare such as bagels and cream cheese or the famous cheese cake (we'd visit Lindy's later that day but I never did get to sample a corned beef on rye sandwich or a hot-dog which was first introduced on Coney Island.)
The legendary Carnegie Hall was right across the street from our hotel so we spent some time browsing around reading the play-bills. There aren't any performances until next month and if we'd known we could have taken a tour of the Hall. The premier concert here was conducted by Tchaikovsky; the NY Philharmonic played here in the heyday of Mahler, Toscanini, Stokovwski and Bernstein. A concert date here is recognized as a mark of supreme artistry. Nowadays it also hosts pop concerts as well as classical.
A short walk away is MOMA, the Museum of Modern Art. Originally founded in 1929, it is devoted exclusively to modern art from the late 19th C. The new museum opened in 1984 and has been recently renovated. Famous paintings hang here from the Impressionists to those by Cubists and the Pop Artists such as Andy Warhol. Currently there is an exhibit of Dada artists.
We spent some time browsing in the Sculpture Garden before going inside to see the other exhibits. There are sculptures by Aristide Maillot, Gaston Lachaise, Henry Moore and my favorite, a little nanny goat cast in bronze by Pablo Picasso. As well there is a bronze wall by Henri Matisse.
As I'm most fond of the Impressionist painters I was especially thrilled to view Van Gogh's "Starry Night", Monet's "Water Lilies" as well as others. There were several of Picasso's works including "Demoiselles d'Avignon". I'm not much of a Jackson Pollock fan but it's interesting to view these famous artists' work.
We ate lunch at the MOMA and then walked over to look at Rockefeller Centre. This is one of Manhattan's landmarks, a masterpiece of Art Deco idealism, erected in 1930 and designated as as historic landmark in 1988. It's the world's largest privately owned buisness-entertainment centre composed of 18 buildings on 21 acres on Fifth Avenue between 49th and 50th Streets. You enter via the slope of the Promenade to the Channel Gardens which leads to the Lower plaza where the famous ice skating rink is located in winter, and al fresco dining in summer. All around flutter the flags of U.N. member countries and in the centre is the imposing gilded bronze statue of Prometheus by sculputor Paul Manship. Just behind Prometheus is where the city's magestic Christmas tree towers over the ice rink during December and early January.
The architecture in New York is amazing and, like in London, you must walk around constantly looking up so as not to miss any of the abundance of architecutral treasures from the shiny glass and steel sky-scrapers to the Gothic revival spires of St. Patrick's Cathedral, the Beaux Arts of Grand Central Terminal, the Art Deco of the Chrysler Building and many other historic buildings. There are a total of nineteen Art Deco buildings between Fifth and Seventh Avenues at 48th and 51 Sts alone, all clustered around the Radio City Music Hall with its ornate facades
that are a virtual musuem of sculpture, bas-relief, gilding, mosaics, carvings and moldings.
I had made a list of historic houses and apartments I wanted to see, most notably those that had once been the homes of famous writers, musicians or actors, but unfortunately time did not permit me to see many of them. On another trip to NYC I'd definitely plan to take a historic buildings tour because there's just so much to see in this city that is so rich with history.
Later that afternoon we would venture forth on our first subway ride which would take us to Greenwich Village. I'll write a seperate blog about the Village because that's where I stayed when I first visited NYC in 1968 so for me it would be a nostalgic visit.
THE BIG APPLE, Day Two: Art and Architecture
Wednesday, Sept. 6
The first thing this morning we went across the road to Benash's Deli/Restaurant and had a typical N.Y. nosh: bagels and cream cheese. (Absolutely the best!)
Manhattan alone has over 4,000 restaurants with a wide range fo food, flavours and prices from hot-dogs to haut-cuisine. If you're a foodie you'll find everything to suit your tastes and you could actually make your stay in NYC a culinary tour. No trip here is complete without sampling the quintessential NY fare such as bagels and cream cheese or the famous cheese cake (we'd visit Lindy's later that day but I never did get to sample a corned beef on rye sandwich or a hot-dog which was first introduced on Coney Island.)
The legendary Carnegie Hall was right across the street from our hotel so we spent some time browsing around reading the play-bills. There aren't any performances until next month and if we'd known we could have taken a tour of the Hall. The premier concert here was conducted by Tchaikovsky; the NY Philharmonic played here in the heyday of Mahler, Toscanini, Stokovwski and Bernstein. A concert date here is recognized as a mark of supreme artistry. Nowadays it also hosts pop concerts as well as classical.
A short walk away is MOMA, the Museum of Modern Art. Originally founded in 1929, it is devoted exclusively to modern art from the late 19th C. The new museum opened in 1984 and has been recently renovated. Famous paintings hang here from the Impressionists to those by Cubists and the Pop Artists such as Andy Warhol. Currently there is an exhibit of Dada artists.
We spent some time browsing in the Sculpture Garden before going inside to see the other exhibits. There are sculptures by Aristide Maillot, Gaston Lachaise, Henry Moore and my favorite, a little nanny goat cast in bronze by Pablo Picasso. As well there is a bronze wall by Henri Matisse.
As I'm most fond of the Impressionist painters I was especially thrilled to view Van Gogh's "Starry Night", Monet's "Water Lilies" as well as others. There were several of Picasso's works including "Demoiselles d'Avignon". I'm not much of a Jackson Pollock fan but it's interesting to view these famous artists' work.
We ate lunch at the MOMA and then walked over to look at Rockefeller Centre. This is one of Manhattan's landmarks, a masterpiece of Art Deco idealism, erected in 1930 and designated as as historic landmark in 1988. It's the world's largest privately owned buisness-entertainment centre composed of 18 buildings on 21 acres on Fifth Avenue between 49th and 50th Streets. You enter via the slope of the Promenade to the Channel Gardens which leads to the Lower plaza where the famous ice skating rink is located in winter, and al fresco dining in summer. All around flutter the flags of U.N. member countries and in the centre is the imposing gilded bronze statue of Prometheus by sculputor Paul Manship. Just behind Prometheus is where the city's magestic Christmas tree towers over the ice rink during December and early January.
The architecture in New York is amazing and, like in London, you must walk around constantly looking up so as not to miss any of the abundance of architecutral treasures from the shiny glass and steel sky-scrapers to the Gothic revival spires of St. Patrick's Cathedral, the Beaux Arts of Grand Central Terminal, the Art Deco of the Chrysler Building and many other historic buildings. There are a total of nineteen Art Deco buildings between Fifth and Seventh Avenues at 48th and 51 Sts alone, all clustered around the Radio City Music Hall with its ornate facades
that are a virtual musuem of sculpture, bas-relief, gilding, mosaics, carvings and moldings.
I had made a list of historic houses and apartments I wanted to see, most notably those that had once been the homes of famous writers, musicians or actors, but unfortunately time did not permit me to see many of them. On another trip to NYC I'd definitely plan to take a historic buildings tour because there's just so much to see in this city that is so rich with history.
Later that afternoon we would venture forth on our first subway ride which would take us to Greenwich Village. I'll write a seperate blog about the Village because that's where I stayed when I first visited NYC in 1968 so for me it would be a nostalgic visit.
The first thing this morning we went across the road to Benash's Deli/Restaurant and had a typical N.Y. nosh: bagels and cream cheese. (Absolutely the best!)
Manhattan alone has over 4,000 restaurants with a wide range fo food, flavours and prices from hot-dogs to haut-cuisine. If you're a foodie you'll find everything to suit your tastes and you could actually make your stay in NYC a culinary tour. No trip here is complete without sampling the quintessential NY fare such as bagels and cream cheese or the famous cheese cake (we'd visit Lindy's later that day but I never did get to sample a corned beef on rye sandwich or a hot-dog which was first introduced on Coney Island.)
The legendary Carnegie Hall was right across the street from our hotel so we spent some time browsing around reading the play-bills. There aren't any performances until next month and if we'd known we could have taken a tour of the Hall. The premier concert here was conducted by Tchaikovsky; the NY Philharmonic played here in the heyday of Mahler, Toscanini, Stokovwski and Bernstein. A concert date here is recognized as a mark of supreme artistry. Nowadays it also hosts pop concerts as well as classical.
A short walk away is MOMA, the Museum of Modern Art. Originally founded in 1929, it is devoted exclusively to modern art from the late 19th C. The new museum opened in 1984 and has been recently renovated. Famous paintings hang here from the Impressionists to those by Cubists and the Pop Artists such as Andy Warhol. Currently there is an exhibit of Dada artists.
We spent some time browsing in the Sculpture Garden before going inside to see the other exhibits. There are sculptures by Aristide Maillot, Gaston Lachaise, Henry Moore and my favorite, a little nanny goat cast in bronze by Pablo Picasso. As well there is a bronze wall by Henri Matisse.
As I'm most fond of the Impressionist painters I was especially thrilled to view Van Gogh's "Starry Night", Monet's "Water Lilies" as well as others. There were several of Picasso's works including "Demoiselles d'Avignon". I'm not much of a Jackson Pollock fan but it's interesting to view these famous artists' work.
We ate lunch at the MOMA and then walked over to look at Rockefeller Centre. This is one of Manhattan's landmarks, a masterpiece of Art Deco idealism, erected in 1930 and designated as as historic landmark in 1988. It's the world's largest privately owned buisness-entertainment centre composed of 18 buildings on 21 acres on Fifth Avenue between 49th and 50th Streets. You enter via the slope of the Promenade to the Channel Gardens which leads to the Lower plaza where the famous ice skating rink is located in winter, and al fresco dining in summer. All around flutter the flags of U.N. member countries and in the centre is the imposing gilded bronze statue of Prometheus by sculputor Paul Manship. Just behind Prometheus is where the city's magestic Christmas tree towers over the ice rink during December and early January.
The architecture in New York is amazing and, like in London, you must walk around constantly looking up so as not to miss any of the abundance of architecutral treasures from the shiny glass and steel sky-scrapers to the Gothic revival spires of St. Patrick's Cathedral, the Beaux Arts of Grand Central Terminal, the Art Deco of the Chrysler Building and many other historic buildings. There are a total of nineteen Art Deco buildings between Fifth and Seventh Avenues at 48th and 51 Sts alone, all clustered around the Radio City Music Hall with its ornate facades
that are a virtual musuem of sculpture, bas-relief, gilding, mosaics, carvings and moldings.
I had made a list of historic houses and apartments I wanted to see, most notably those that had once been the homes of famous writers, musicians or actors, but unfortunately time did not permit me to see many of them. On another trip to NYC I'd definitely plan to take a historic buildings tour because there's just so much to see in this city that is so rich with history.
Later that afternoon we would venture forth on our first subway ride which would take us to Greenwich Village. I'll write a seperate blog about the Village because that's where I stayed when I first visited NYC in 1968 so for me it would be a nostalgic visit.
A SMALL SLICE OF THE BIG APPLE: A Short Trip to NYC
It seems appropriate that I should be writing this blog about my visit to NYC on the eve of the anniversary of 9/11. The first time I visited New York, in 1968, was a life-changing experience for me. The second time, in the mid '70's, my life was also at a cross-roads. And this time, once again I am on the threshold of a new beginning.
I won this trip from the Travel Writer's Association and was thrilled about it. But a number of things happened that had made me a bit reluctant to go. First, I had a hard time putting together the money I needed and then I was given an eviction notice which meant I had to move. Fortunately, everything turned out just right. I've found a beautiful new apartment which I'll officially move into next weekend, thanks to good fortune and friends, enough money came together for me to enjoy my holiday, and from the moment I arrived back in NYC I knew it was 'right' for me to be there. The City has gone through some changes too, emerging after that terrible disaster, with a new sparkle and warmth. People there were friendly, kind and helpful, and most of all...patient. Even though by the weekend the place was filling up with visitors, including police and fire department contingents from all over coming there especially for the solemn occasion that will mark the commemoration of 9/11, there was still a beautiful spirit. New York is amazing, and our stay there, though brief, was filled with adventure and wonderful experiences.
I'll begin with our arrival, Tuesday night Sept 5, on a pleasant flight with Harmony Airlines from Vancouver to J.F.K. We came in through cloud cover and a misty rain. After my last experience in an U.S. airport (the nightmare that is LAX) I didn't know what we'd find at this world famous terminal, but we were relieved to discover what an impressive airport it is. Everything was controlled, well-run, non of the chaos and paranoia I experienced at LAX on my arrival from Malaysia. We cleared through customs with absolutely no hassles. The airport is modern and clean (L.A. take note!) and after realizing we'd be waiting in the taxi lineup for hours we found a shuttle bus that would take us into the City. Here we experienced some fo the NY frenzy that I seem to remember from the past. The guy who was herding us into the shuttle wasn't too helpful about indicating the best of the two stops we should be aiming for. We chose the Bus Terminal/Port Authority, but once on the bus it was announced that anyone going to a hotel should get off at Grand Central. We did so along with the other folks, but when the driver was taking luggage out, because ours was in a compartment for the Bus Terminal he refused to get it out. A few other people were in the same situation and the driver then threw a hissy fit, refused to get the luggage off and said "Get it yourself!". One of the passangers did so, had to climb right into the luggage compartment because the driver wouldn't offer him his pole to pull stuff out. In all that commotion we were then herded over to another small shuttle that would take us to our hotel. The African American guy who operated this vehicle was speaking in such a jargon that it was impossible to understand him. We wondered if we'd actually get to our hotel. In the end he turned out to be quite amusing and good natured after all the hustle, bustle and drama, and dropped us off right in front of the Park Central Hotel, located at 7th and Broadway.
Our hotel, one of the grand old established hotels dating back to the '20's, was elegant and beautifully restored. Our room was spacious, overlooking 7th avenue on the 8th floor but it was surprisingly quiet. We decided to have dinner in the hotel's New York Cafe, and afterwards went out to explore.
A RAINY NIGHT IN TIMES SQUARE
A misty rain was falling as we set off from the hotel after dinner. Our hotel was conveniently situation, right across from Carnegie Hall, and just minutes away from the hub of activity in Manhattan that is Times Square and the Theatre District. What a trhill it was to see all the neon lights advertising shows, the theatre marquees and famous restaurants like Ruby Foos and Lindy's Cheese Cake. We even saw the marquee for the David Letterman Show.
Broadway, the Theatre District and Times Square are New York! Times Square was once the New York Times newspaper's headquarters, from 1905 and it's the place where the famous ball drops every Newy Years as it has since that time. The area was once noted to be seedy but it has since seen sweeping changes and renovations. During Mayor Rudy Gulliani's term of office the City has been cleaned up and made safe. We didn't see any pan-handlers, street people, shady characters or trouble makers the whole time we were in mid-Manhatten. Times Square hosts about 20 million visitors a year and is a major tourist attraction. There's almost a carnival atmosphere with all the flashing lights and music and dozens of souvenier shops along with the famous NY delis where you can buy cheap snacks, featuring bagels and cream cheese, sandwiches and fruit of every description. Times Square is sometimes called "The Crossroads of the World" and is one of the major transportation crossroads in Manhattan. (We'd see a sample of a massive traffic grid-lock on our last day there!)
If you haven't been here for awhile, like me, you'll be pleasantly surprised by the "New Times Square" although perhaps it has become a bit over-done, a bit tacky. Besides the neon there's now the flashing high-tech screens and far too many billboards advertising everything under the sun including movies and shows.
New theatres have opened, old ones renovated. The oldest still remaining is the Lyceum, built in 1903. There's always been fashionable restaurants in this area, many of which still remain along with lots of trendy new ones. There are also numerous jazz, comedy and music clubs, clothing shops and megastores. Everything sparkles with neon and strobe lights and there's the famous Times running-lights headlines, a big feature in the Square though the N.Y. Times has moved to larger and more modern quarters along with other famous publishing houses including Random House, Conde Naste Magazine Group and MTV, Warner Bros, Virgin and Disney mega stores to name a few.
We had a long walk down and back (one of several we'd make during the week). By that time we felt damp and foot-sore so it was time to retire to our comfortable hotel room.
We thought we'd have a night-cap at the hotel bar before turning in, but even in NY some things close early so we went to our room, unpacked, relaxed and planned for the next day which would be New York Art and Architecture.
I won this trip from the Travel Writer's Association and was thrilled about it. But a number of things happened that had made me a bit reluctant to go. First, I had a hard time putting together the money I needed and then I was given an eviction notice which meant I had to move. Fortunately, everything turned out just right. I've found a beautiful new apartment which I'll officially move into next weekend, thanks to good fortune and friends, enough money came together for me to enjoy my holiday, and from the moment I arrived back in NYC I knew it was 'right' for me to be there. The City has gone through some changes too, emerging after that terrible disaster, with a new sparkle and warmth. People there were friendly, kind and helpful, and most of all...patient. Even though by the weekend the place was filling up with visitors, including police and fire department contingents from all over coming there especially for the solemn occasion that will mark the commemoration of 9/11, there was still a beautiful spirit. New York is amazing, and our stay there, though brief, was filled with adventure and wonderful experiences.
I'll begin with our arrival, Tuesday night Sept 5, on a pleasant flight with Harmony Airlines from Vancouver to J.F.K. We came in through cloud cover and a misty rain. After my last experience in an U.S. airport (the nightmare that is LAX) I didn't know what we'd find at this world famous terminal, but we were relieved to discover what an impressive airport it is. Everything was controlled, well-run, non of the chaos and paranoia I experienced at LAX on my arrival from Malaysia. We cleared through customs with absolutely no hassles. The airport is modern and clean (L.A. take note!) and after realizing we'd be waiting in the taxi lineup for hours we found a shuttle bus that would take us into the City. Here we experienced some fo the NY frenzy that I seem to remember from the past. The guy who was herding us into the shuttle wasn't too helpful about indicating the best of the two stops we should be aiming for. We chose the Bus Terminal/Port Authority, but once on the bus it was announced that anyone going to a hotel should get off at Grand Central. We did so along with the other folks, but when the driver was taking luggage out, because ours was in a compartment for the Bus Terminal he refused to get it out. A few other people were in the same situation and the driver then threw a hissy fit, refused to get the luggage off and said "Get it yourself!". One of the passangers did so, had to climb right into the luggage compartment because the driver wouldn't offer him his pole to pull stuff out. In all that commotion we were then herded over to another small shuttle that would take us to our hotel. The African American guy who operated this vehicle was speaking in such a jargon that it was impossible to understand him. We wondered if we'd actually get to our hotel. In the end he turned out to be quite amusing and good natured after all the hustle, bustle and drama, and dropped us off right in front of the Park Central Hotel, located at 7th and Broadway.
Our hotel, one of the grand old established hotels dating back to the '20's, was elegant and beautifully restored. Our room was spacious, overlooking 7th avenue on the 8th floor but it was surprisingly quiet. We decided to have dinner in the hotel's New York Cafe, and afterwards went out to explore.
A RAINY NIGHT IN TIMES SQUARE
A misty rain was falling as we set off from the hotel after dinner. Our hotel was conveniently situation, right across from Carnegie Hall, and just minutes away from the hub of activity in Manhattan that is Times Square and the Theatre District. What a trhill it was to see all the neon lights advertising shows, the theatre marquees and famous restaurants like Ruby Foos and Lindy's Cheese Cake. We even saw the marquee for the David Letterman Show.
Broadway, the Theatre District and Times Square are New York! Times Square was once the New York Times newspaper's headquarters, from 1905 and it's the place where the famous ball drops every Newy Years as it has since that time. The area was once noted to be seedy but it has since seen sweeping changes and renovations. During Mayor Rudy Gulliani's term of office the City has been cleaned up and made safe. We didn't see any pan-handlers, street people, shady characters or trouble makers the whole time we were in mid-Manhatten. Times Square hosts about 20 million visitors a year and is a major tourist attraction. There's almost a carnival atmosphere with all the flashing lights and music and dozens of souvenier shops along with the famous NY delis where you can buy cheap snacks, featuring bagels and cream cheese, sandwiches and fruit of every description. Times Square is sometimes called "The Crossroads of the World" and is one of the major transportation crossroads in Manhattan. (We'd see a sample of a massive traffic grid-lock on our last day there!)
If you haven't been here for awhile, like me, you'll be pleasantly surprised by the "New Times Square" although perhaps it has become a bit over-done, a bit tacky. Besides the neon there's now the flashing high-tech screens and far too many billboards advertising everything under the sun including movies and shows.
New theatres have opened, old ones renovated. The oldest still remaining is the Lyceum, built in 1903. There's always been fashionable restaurants in this area, many of which still remain along with lots of trendy new ones. There are also numerous jazz, comedy and music clubs, clothing shops and megastores. Everything sparkles with neon and strobe lights and there's the famous Times running-lights headlines, a big feature in the Square though the N.Y. Times has moved to larger and more modern quarters along with other famous publishing houses including Random House, Conde Naste Magazine Group and MTV, Warner Bros, Virgin and Disney mega stores to name a few.
We had a long walk down and back (one of several we'd make during the week). By that time we felt damp and foot-sore so it was time to retire to our comfortable hotel room.
We thought we'd have a night-cap at the hotel bar before turning in, but even in NY some things close early so we went to our room, unpacked, relaxed and planned for the next day which would be New York Art and Architecture.
Saturday, August 12, 2006
THE SIDEWALKS OF NEW YORK
"East Side, West Side, all around the town,
The tots sang "Ring-a-rosie", "London Bridge is falling down,";
Boys and girls together, me and Mamie O'Rorke,
Tripped the light fantastic on the sidewalks of New York."
James W. Blake 1862-1935 The sidewalks of New York" 1894
In the midst of unexpected eviction notices, finding a new place to live, and packing/moving
I've been doing some research for the up-and-coming week in New York City -- that trip I won at the Travel Writer's gala last May.
All the arrangements are made: air tickets provided by Harmony, City tour tickets provided by NYC tourism and the hotel is booked from Sept 5 - Sept 9. It's just a matter of getting there but in this unexpected turmoil I've been stressed out trying to figure out if I'll have enough to spend, and all the other details that go along with cramming a trip in between moving.
To distract myself from these hassles and worries, I started to read some NYC books and make notes for the trip. I like to figure out in advance what are the best things to focus on in regards to a possible travel article about the trip. So I decided to focus on anything to do with writers in NYC and of course there were (and are) lots of writers in that old town. I've listed residences, pubs, dineries and other places of interest. Actually there were far too many to make note of and I doubt we'll have time in five days to see them all, but just in case...
An interesting detail about our hotel, the Park Central (near Central Park of course). It was the scene of two mob shoot-outs 30 years apart, never solved. Arnold Rothstein was shot in Room 349 on Nov 4/28. He was apparantly a gambler involved with the Black Sox Scandal of 1919. Albert Anastasia, a hit man for the mob, was murdered in the hotel barbershop on Oct 24, 1957.
I'd like to visit some spots in Greenwich Village. I was there in '68 visiting a girlfriend for a month but I don't really remember too many details of places I saw or went to with her. Chumley's Bar sounds interseting. It was a writer's hangout frequented by John Steinbeck, Allen Ginsberg and Scott Fitzerald.
I've made notes about other historical or famous landmarks around town too, including various houses where famous people lived and dramatic events occured. Whether or not we'll get to pass by, take photos, or visit them all remains to be seen. We have a lot of tour tickets to use up (media passes so no waiting in line-ups). No matter what it'll be quite an adventure.
The tots sang "Ring-a-rosie", "London Bridge is falling down,";
Boys and girls together, me and Mamie O'Rorke,
Tripped the light fantastic on the sidewalks of New York."
James W. Blake 1862-1935 The sidewalks of New York" 1894
In the midst of unexpected eviction notices, finding a new place to live, and packing/moving
I've been doing some research for the up-and-coming week in New York City -- that trip I won at the Travel Writer's gala last May.
All the arrangements are made: air tickets provided by Harmony, City tour tickets provided by NYC tourism and the hotel is booked from Sept 5 - Sept 9. It's just a matter of getting there but in this unexpected turmoil I've been stressed out trying to figure out if I'll have enough to spend, and all the other details that go along with cramming a trip in between moving.
To distract myself from these hassles and worries, I started to read some NYC books and make notes for the trip. I like to figure out in advance what are the best things to focus on in regards to a possible travel article about the trip. So I decided to focus on anything to do with writers in NYC and of course there were (and are) lots of writers in that old town. I've listed residences, pubs, dineries and other places of interest. Actually there were far too many to make note of and I doubt we'll have time in five days to see them all, but just in case...
An interesting detail about our hotel, the Park Central (near Central Park of course). It was the scene of two mob shoot-outs 30 years apart, never solved. Arnold Rothstein was shot in Room 349 on Nov 4/28. He was apparantly a gambler involved with the Black Sox Scandal of 1919. Albert Anastasia, a hit man for the mob, was murdered in the hotel barbershop on Oct 24, 1957.
I'd like to visit some spots in Greenwich Village. I was there in '68 visiting a girlfriend for a month but I don't really remember too many details of places I saw or went to with her. Chumley's Bar sounds interseting. It was a writer's hangout frequented by John Steinbeck, Allen Ginsberg and Scott Fitzerald.
I've made notes about other historical or famous landmarks around town too, including various houses where famous people lived and dramatic events occured. Whether or not we'll get to pass by, take photos, or visit them all remains to be seen. We have a lot of tour tickets to use up (media passes so no waiting in line-ups). No matter what it'll be quite an adventure.
Thursday, June 29, 2006
A LITTLE BIT OF LOCAL HISTORY
THURSDAY, June 29/06
Patrick and I have returned from our mini vacation around the Province so, as promised, I've decided to write a mini history lesson about the places we visited and describe some of the things we saw and did.
We headed East first, by Greyhound, taking the scenic route from the Coast, through the Fraser Valley to the mountains and over the Coquihalla Pass to the Okanagan Valley. Our first stop was Peachland where my sister lives (and my Dad used to live.) Peachland is a small picturesque town located on the shore of Lake Okanagan. The lake is surrounded by orchards, vineyards and the mountains are crowned with towering Ponderosa pine trees (except for the East side of the lake which was devastated by forest fires a couple of years ago.)
Peachland town (population 5,077) was established in 1897 by a pioneer farmer from Manitoba who recognized the value of the land and possibilities for agricultural growth. Today the Okanagan valley is laden with orchards and vineyards and this has become a prime industry of the area. You can take tours of the wineries and in the late summer there are fruit stands along the highway where you can buy an abundance of fresh produce. Peachland is also the hometown of the legendary Ogopogo, a mysterious creature similar to the famous Nessie of Loch Ness. Every year there are supposed 'sightings' of her and a few years ago a group of Japanese tourists set out determined to find her. They never did!
After a couple of pleasant days in Peachland with my family, we took the bus north through the town of Kelowna, to Vernon, one of the oldest communities in the B.C. Interior. This lovely town (pop 35,548) is nestled between three lakes: Swan Lake, Kalamalka and Okanagan. Gold miners and ranchers were attracted here in the 1860's and just north of the town is the famous O'Keefe Ranch, founded in 1867, once the biggest ranch in B.C. (You can read about it in an early post here). The town has interesting historical murals decorating the various shops and businesses. There are many recreational areas in and around Vernon including the Silver Star Mountain Resort (elevation 1915 m.) which is an excellent ski/snowboard area. The chalets are brightly painted and built in the style of the 1800's pioneer houses.
We had a wonderful time in Vernon, sightseeing and swimming in the lake. My friend had a BBQ one night and even my daughter showed up from her home in Salmon Arm, about a 40 minute drive into the mountains.
After our leisurely visit to the Okanagan, basking in the hot sun and enjoying the sights, we headed back to the Coast. The day after our return we headed by ferry to Vancouver Island where we met up with my cousins for a lovely garden party in an estate garden, then in the evening continued on up the coast to Chemainus ("the Little Town that Could") to take the small ferry over to Thetis Island where my cousins have a cottage.
The whole coast of B.C. has an interesting naval and pioneer history. Most of the islands are named after either British or Spanish sea captains who plied those waters in search of the Northwest Passage. Even Capt. Cook and Capt. Bligh of the Bounty sailed up that Coast.
In 1851 a crew of sailors were cruising among the small islands exploring and naming them. One they named after their Captain Augustus Leopold Kuper and the other was named after his frigate HMS Thetis a 36 gun Royal Navy frigate stationed to survey the Pacific coast area between 1851 and 1853. ( The ship was named after Thetis a sea nymph, daughter of Zeus, and mother of the legendary Achilles. ) Thetis Island was first settled in 1874 by British pioneers. There is currently a population of 350 residents but during the summer months the population increases including the many young campers who attend the Pioneer Pacific Christian camp here. (My cousins are very involved with this camp and their Cape Cod style house is located on the site of the old camp pump house, so it is known as The Pump House. My cousin's husband has built it all himself using mostly recycled materials. It's truly a work of art!
The island has a micro climate much like the Mediterranean and is forested with some farmland, meadows and marinas. We enjoyed long walks in the forest and relaxing afternoons sun-bathing and reading. The only sounds were the cheerful twittering of the birds and the wind in the treetops. Once we saw a band of angry robins trying to harass a big old owl and chase it out of the tree where he was perched, trying to snooze.
We visited one of the two marinas and enjoyed a lunch there before embarking on the little ferry to return to Vancouver Island. Right across from Thetis is the other smaller island, Kuper Island which is mainly populated by First Nations people. Once the two islands were connected by mud flats that have since been dredged and widened to allow passage for small craft.
On April 20, 1863 the British naval gunboat Forward attacked the native village on Kuper believing they were harbouring individuals involved in assaults against European transients. A fierce battle ensued between the sailors and native warriors ending with some casualties. This resulted in a major military operation by the colonial government after which aboriginal lands were alienated and native jurisdiction eroded. The island's dark history included the oppression of natives, especially native chidren at the hands of the Church and State. Hundreds of Coast Salish children were removed from their homes and sent to the Kuper Island Indian Residential School operated by Roman Catholic missionaries and funded by the Dept. of Indian affairs. These children suffered loss of culture, identity, language, family and many were cruelly treated and abused physically and sexually. Now many of these unfortunate victims are speaking out and telling their stories as they embark on a spiritual journey of recovery. Today the island is home to the Penelakut First Nations Tribe and has a population of 302.
Our wonderful relaxing holiday ended in Victoria (our Provincial capital) at my cousin's home which happens to be a heritage house. The next morning before we left for the mainland, Patrick had a mini tour of the city and some of its historic sites. There's so much to see in and around Victoria it would take at least a weekend to cover the main attractions such as the Parliament Buildings, Craigdaroch Castle, the old Empress Hotel, and the many beautiful parks and gardens, but thanks to Garry he got to glimpse some of it.
We returned to the city feeling refreshed and rested. It was a bit of a whirlwind tour around the Province, but we both enjoyed it and had a great time with relatives and friends.
That was my 'summer holiday' for now. Next: A week in NYC!
Patrick and I have returned from our mini vacation around the Province so, as promised, I've decided to write a mini history lesson about the places we visited and describe some of the things we saw and did.
We headed East first, by Greyhound, taking the scenic route from the Coast, through the Fraser Valley to the mountains and over the Coquihalla Pass to the Okanagan Valley. Our first stop was Peachland where my sister lives (and my Dad used to live.) Peachland is a small picturesque town located on the shore of Lake Okanagan. The lake is surrounded by orchards, vineyards and the mountains are crowned with towering Ponderosa pine trees (except for the East side of the lake which was devastated by forest fires a couple of years ago.)
Peachland town (population 5,077) was established in 1897 by a pioneer farmer from Manitoba who recognized the value of the land and possibilities for agricultural growth. Today the Okanagan valley is laden with orchards and vineyards and this has become a prime industry of the area. You can take tours of the wineries and in the late summer there are fruit stands along the highway where you can buy an abundance of fresh produce. Peachland is also the hometown of the legendary Ogopogo, a mysterious creature similar to the famous Nessie of Loch Ness. Every year there are supposed 'sightings' of her and a few years ago a group of Japanese tourists set out determined to find her. They never did!
After a couple of pleasant days in Peachland with my family, we took the bus north through the town of Kelowna, to Vernon, one of the oldest communities in the B.C. Interior. This lovely town (pop 35,548) is nestled between three lakes: Swan Lake, Kalamalka and Okanagan. Gold miners and ranchers were attracted here in the 1860's and just north of the town is the famous O'Keefe Ranch, founded in 1867, once the biggest ranch in B.C. (You can read about it in an early post here). The town has interesting historical murals decorating the various shops and businesses. There are many recreational areas in and around Vernon including the Silver Star Mountain Resort (elevation 1915 m.) which is an excellent ski/snowboard area. The chalets are brightly painted and built in the style of the 1800's pioneer houses.
We had a wonderful time in Vernon, sightseeing and swimming in the lake. My friend had a BBQ one night and even my daughter showed up from her home in Salmon Arm, about a 40 minute drive into the mountains.
After our leisurely visit to the Okanagan, basking in the hot sun and enjoying the sights, we headed back to the Coast. The day after our return we headed by ferry to Vancouver Island where we met up with my cousins for a lovely garden party in an estate garden, then in the evening continued on up the coast to Chemainus ("the Little Town that Could") to take the small ferry over to Thetis Island where my cousins have a cottage.
The whole coast of B.C. has an interesting naval and pioneer history. Most of the islands are named after either British or Spanish sea captains who plied those waters in search of the Northwest Passage. Even Capt. Cook and Capt. Bligh of the Bounty sailed up that Coast.
In 1851 a crew of sailors were cruising among the small islands exploring and naming them. One they named after their Captain Augustus Leopold Kuper and the other was named after his frigate HMS Thetis a 36 gun Royal Navy frigate stationed to survey the Pacific coast area between 1851 and 1853. ( The ship was named after Thetis a sea nymph, daughter of Zeus, and mother of the legendary Achilles. ) Thetis Island was first settled in 1874 by British pioneers. There is currently a population of 350 residents but during the summer months the population increases including the many young campers who attend the Pioneer Pacific Christian camp here. (My cousins are very involved with this camp and their Cape Cod style house is located on the site of the old camp pump house, so it is known as The Pump House. My cousin's husband has built it all himself using mostly recycled materials. It's truly a work of art!
The island has a micro climate much like the Mediterranean and is forested with some farmland, meadows and marinas. We enjoyed long walks in the forest and relaxing afternoons sun-bathing and reading. The only sounds were the cheerful twittering of the birds and the wind in the treetops. Once we saw a band of angry robins trying to harass a big old owl and chase it out of the tree where he was perched, trying to snooze.
We visited one of the two marinas and enjoyed a lunch there before embarking on the little ferry to return to Vancouver Island. Right across from Thetis is the other smaller island, Kuper Island which is mainly populated by First Nations people. Once the two islands were connected by mud flats that have since been dredged and widened to allow passage for small craft.
On April 20, 1863 the British naval gunboat Forward attacked the native village on Kuper believing they were harbouring individuals involved in assaults against European transients. A fierce battle ensued between the sailors and native warriors ending with some casualties. This resulted in a major military operation by the colonial government after which aboriginal lands were alienated and native jurisdiction eroded. The island's dark history included the oppression of natives, especially native chidren at the hands of the Church and State. Hundreds of Coast Salish children were removed from their homes and sent to the Kuper Island Indian Residential School operated by Roman Catholic missionaries and funded by the Dept. of Indian affairs. These children suffered loss of culture, identity, language, family and many were cruelly treated and abused physically and sexually. Now many of these unfortunate victims are speaking out and telling their stories as they embark on a spiritual journey of recovery. Today the island is home to the Penelakut First Nations Tribe and has a population of 302.
Our wonderful relaxing holiday ended in Victoria (our Provincial capital) at my cousin's home which happens to be a heritage house. The next morning before we left for the mainland, Patrick had a mini tour of the city and some of its historic sites. There's so much to see in and around Victoria it would take at least a weekend to cover the main attractions such as the Parliament Buildings, Craigdaroch Castle, the old Empress Hotel, and the many beautiful parks and gardens, but thanks to Garry he got to glimpse some of it.
We returned to the city feeling refreshed and rested. It was a bit of a whirlwind tour around the Province, but we both enjoyed it and had a great time with relatives and friends.
That was my 'summer holiday' for now. Next: A week in NYC!
Saturday, June 17, 2006
BE A TOURIST IN YOUR OWN HOME TOWN
SATURDAY, June 17
One of the classes I instruct in Travel Writing is called "Be a Tourist In Your Own Home Town". We tend to forget that you don't have to go abroad to some exotic destination to see some pretty intersting sights. And as lots of tourists come here to your own back yard you can always write about it for them.
I realized this a few years ago when I was assigned to work on the "Trips and Tours" section of the A.P.A. Insight Guide for Vancouver and Environs. I had five weeks to take myself on numerous field trips and write short blubs about them for the travel guide. It was exhilarating and fun and I got to see lot of things I might otherwise have bypassed.
This week I have a guest in town from Germany. My friend Patrick is a world traveler and since we met four years ago he's made several trips to Vancouver. Each time he comes he wants to see new and different sights. So this time we're making a trip to the lovely Okanagan Valley in the Interior. First we'll visit my sister in Peachland, by Okanagan Lake. Then we're going up to Vernon by Kalamalka Lake to see my friend Rosie. There are lots of intersting things to see in the OK Valley including the many wineries and several pioneer sights. A year or so ago I wrote about the O'Keefe Ranch (there's a blog here about that famous place.)
And the trip to the Interior is beautiful, through mountain scenery.
When we return next weekend, we'll take the ferry over to Vancouver Island to visit cousins in Victoria. Then we've been invited to their summer home on Thetis Island, one of the many Gulf Islands.
There will be lots to write about these adventures. So if you are not informed already, check back and find out what you're missing!
One of the classes I instruct in Travel Writing is called "Be a Tourist In Your Own Home Town". We tend to forget that you don't have to go abroad to some exotic destination to see some pretty intersting sights. And as lots of tourists come here to your own back yard you can always write about it for them.
I realized this a few years ago when I was assigned to work on the "Trips and Tours" section of the A.P.A. Insight Guide for Vancouver and Environs. I had five weeks to take myself on numerous field trips and write short blubs about them for the travel guide. It was exhilarating and fun and I got to see lot of things I might otherwise have bypassed.
This week I have a guest in town from Germany. My friend Patrick is a world traveler and since we met four years ago he's made several trips to Vancouver. Each time he comes he wants to see new and different sights. So this time we're making a trip to the lovely Okanagan Valley in the Interior. First we'll visit my sister in Peachland, by Okanagan Lake. Then we're going up to Vernon by Kalamalka Lake to see my friend Rosie. There are lots of intersting things to see in the OK Valley including the many wineries and several pioneer sights. A year or so ago I wrote about the O'Keefe Ranch (there's a blog here about that famous place.)
And the trip to the Interior is beautiful, through mountain scenery.
When we return next weekend, we'll take the ferry over to Vancouver Island to visit cousins in Victoria. Then we've been invited to their summer home on Thetis Island, one of the many Gulf Islands.
There will be lots to write about these adventures. So if you are not informed already, check back and find out what you're missing!
Friday, May 19, 2006
TRIP PLANS
MAY 19/06
This has been a week of making trip plans. On Tuesday I received my e-ticket confirmations for both Chile and NYC (going to NYC on Sept 5 - 9) and also received a package of City Tour tickets (media) for all the important sites around NYC. (We'll never have time to see them all!)
In addition to these exciting adventures, there will be a few local trips this summer, starting the first weekend of June when my writer's group goes on our writer's retreat weekend to Mayne Island. That will be particularly special as it's my birthday weekend so it will be a Gemini celebration. On the 10th, my friend and travel buddy Patrick arrives from Germany. We are planning a trip over to Vancouver Island and also a few days in the Interior, then he's heading up to Banff to see the Rockies. The rest of the summer will be spent in town here, hopefully enjoying sunshine and beach time and getting a bit of work so I can pay for the big trips in the Fall.
I'll start doing some research about Chile soon, because as travel journalist I can approach the Chilean tourism about hosting tours and possibly accomodations. I know I want to see Pablo Neruda's house and also visit Valparaiso. But what else is there to see? I know C. will take us to all the places familiar to A. and that will be the highlight of the journey.
So...the summertime will be full of dreams of adventures and making more trip plans.
Something to really look forward to!
***there had been some talk of me going to the Havana Jazz Festival with my Havana Buddy but the dates conflict with Chile. However he asked if I'd be interested in going another time and certainly, I would! I love Cuba -- cha-cha-cha!
This has been a week of making trip plans. On Tuesday I received my e-ticket confirmations for both Chile and NYC (going to NYC on Sept 5 - 9) and also received a package of City Tour tickets (media) for all the important sites around NYC. (We'll never have time to see them all!)
In addition to these exciting adventures, there will be a few local trips this summer, starting the first weekend of June when my writer's group goes on our writer's retreat weekend to Mayne Island. That will be particularly special as it's my birthday weekend so it will be a Gemini celebration. On the 10th, my friend and travel buddy Patrick arrives from Germany. We are planning a trip over to Vancouver Island and also a few days in the Interior, then he's heading up to Banff to see the Rockies. The rest of the summer will be spent in town here, hopefully enjoying sunshine and beach time and getting a bit of work so I can pay for the big trips in the Fall.
I'll start doing some research about Chile soon, because as travel journalist I can approach the Chilean tourism about hosting tours and possibly accomodations. I know I want to see Pablo Neruda's house and also visit Valparaiso. But what else is there to see? I know C. will take us to all the places familiar to A. and that will be the highlight of the journey.
So...the summertime will be full of dreams of adventures and making more trip plans.
Something to really look forward to!
***there had been some talk of me going to the Havana Jazz Festival with my Havana Buddy but the dates conflict with Chile. However he asked if I'd be interested in going another time and certainly, I would! I love Cuba -- cha-cha-cha!
Monday, May 15, 2006
THE TRAVEL GODS HAVE SMILED ON ME!
"There is a tide in the affairs of men,
Which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune..."
William Shakespeare, 1654=1616 "Julius Caesar" IV iii, 217
Last week was one of those weeks that started out with frustrations (mainly computer gliches) and ended up to be a most incredible Mother's Day weekend. Last Thursday I booked my flight to Chile, leaving November 18 via Toronto where I'll meet up with my travel pal, Patrick. We're planning to stay two weeks and will visit Santiago mostly, but I want to make it more than a sentimental journey and do some travel writing assignments as well. For one thing, I really want to visit the home(s) of the Chilean poet Pablo Neruda and the city of Valparaiso which was one of my friend A's favorite places. (I hear there is a lovely beach area near there.)
On Saturday it was the annual B.C. Assoc. of Travel Writer's gala and seminar (the one where I had the good fortune of winning the trip to Malaysia last year). I went along with a friend who has just started travel writing. This is an excellent group of people, dynamic and fun. There were several people there who have taken my travel writing courses so it was a nice reunion too.
The seminars are always informative and interesting and of course there is time for schmoozing, visiting and eating good food. Following the gala was the monthly "Beers with Peers" which is also a lot of fun.
During the course of the afternoon various prizes were drawn for members and non-members. My friend and I agreed that if one of us won the spa or mountain retreat weekend, we'd take the other along. We didn't win one of those, but I won a flash thingy for my computer which, co-incidentally happened to be a gift from Malaysian Tourism. Well, the day was drawing to it's close and suddenly there was one last draw - the big one -- the door prize, for members only.
And guess who won the tickets for two to New York City! (plus city tours). I could hardly believe it! Such a surprise. Certainly the gods of good fortune are smiling on me these days!
It's been years since I was in NYC and the idea of going back there is so exciting. I look forward to spending a few days there, probably in the Fall, to take in some shows and look around the old haunts where I had visited so long ago.
So for the next months this travel blog will contain pre-trip research and of course, the interesting little local trips I'll be making throughout the summer. It seems this is to be the Year of Travel. I'm sure looking forward to it! (I'm going out now to buy a lottery ticket!)
"When Fortune is on our side, popular favor bears her company."
Publilius Syrus First Century B.C. "Maxim 275"
Which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune..."
William Shakespeare, 1654=1616 "Julius Caesar" IV iii, 217
Last week was one of those weeks that started out with frustrations (mainly computer gliches) and ended up to be a most incredible Mother's Day weekend. Last Thursday I booked my flight to Chile, leaving November 18 via Toronto where I'll meet up with my travel pal, Patrick. We're planning to stay two weeks and will visit Santiago mostly, but I want to make it more than a sentimental journey and do some travel writing assignments as well. For one thing, I really want to visit the home(s) of the Chilean poet Pablo Neruda and the city of Valparaiso which was one of my friend A's favorite places. (I hear there is a lovely beach area near there.)
On Saturday it was the annual B.C. Assoc. of Travel Writer's gala and seminar (the one where I had the good fortune of winning the trip to Malaysia last year). I went along with a friend who has just started travel writing. This is an excellent group of people, dynamic and fun. There were several people there who have taken my travel writing courses so it was a nice reunion too.
The seminars are always informative and interesting and of course there is time for schmoozing, visiting and eating good food. Following the gala was the monthly "Beers with Peers" which is also a lot of fun.
During the course of the afternoon various prizes were drawn for members and non-members. My friend and I agreed that if one of us won the spa or mountain retreat weekend, we'd take the other along. We didn't win one of those, but I won a flash thingy for my computer which, co-incidentally happened to be a gift from Malaysian Tourism. Well, the day was drawing to it's close and suddenly there was one last draw - the big one -- the door prize, for members only.
And guess who won the tickets for two to New York City! (plus city tours). I could hardly believe it! Such a surprise. Certainly the gods of good fortune are smiling on me these days!
It's been years since I was in NYC and the idea of going back there is so exciting. I look forward to spending a few days there, probably in the Fall, to take in some shows and look around the old haunts where I had visited so long ago.
So for the next months this travel blog will contain pre-trip research and of course, the interesting little local trips I'll be making throughout the summer. It seems this is to be the Year of Travel. I'm sure looking forward to it! (I'm going out now to buy a lottery ticket!)
"When Fortune is on our side, popular favor bears her company."
Publilius Syrus First Century B.C. "Maxim 275"
Monday, May 08, 2006
PLANNING THE SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY
"Gonna take a sentimental journey..."
As the song goes...I'm going to take a sentimental journey to Chile this November. Plans are taking shape, and I'm about to book my flight. My good friend Patrick from Germany will accompany me and we plan to meet up in Toronto for the long flight down.
This journey is an invitation...a 'gift' from the ex-wife of my dear friend A. who died last Fall.
When she was here during A's stay in Palliative and for several weeks after his death, C. and I and her children became friends, and she invited Patrick and I to visit her in Santiago. So now we are making plans and hope to go there for about two weeks.
All during my friendship with A. he talked incessantly about his country, which he longed to return to. He was living in exile here, after escaping Pinochet's junta and then the junta in Argentina where he'd fled with his wife and children. He and his wife were active in the revolutionary movement and worked and lived in the shanty towns. He was a great suporter of Salvatore Allende and had turned down an opportunity to be part of his government. A. 'educated' me about Chile and what had happened there. So this invitation means a lot to me. It's going to be a real 'sentimental journey' to the land that A. loved so much and the places where he and C. spent time and were actively involved in that part of Chile's history. I hope too that I can visit some of Pablo Neruda's places as A. was the one who introduced me to the poet.
It's really exciting to have a new destination in mind and within the week have that ticket booked and paid for making the 'dream' a reality.
So watch this space for more news as the plans take shape.
As the song goes...I'm going to take a sentimental journey to Chile this November. Plans are taking shape, and I'm about to book my flight. My good friend Patrick from Germany will accompany me and we plan to meet up in Toronto for the long flight down.
This journey is an invitation...a 'gift' from the ex-wife of my dear friend A. who died last Fall.
When she was here during A's stay in Palliative and for several weeks after his death, C. and I and her children became friends, and she invited Patrick and I to visit her in Santiago. So now we are making plans and hope to go there for about two weeks.
All during my friendship with A. he talked incessantly about his country, which he longed to return to. He was living in exile here, after escaping Pinochet's junta and then the junta in Argentina where he'd fled with his wife and children. He and his wife were active in the revolutionary movement and worked and lived in the shanty towns. He was a great suporter of Salvatore Allende and had turned down an opportunity to be part of his government. A. 'educated' me about Chile and what had happened there. So this invitation means a lot to me. It's going to be a real 'sentimental journey' to the land that A. loved so much and the places where he and C. spent time and were actively involved in that part of Chile's history. I hope too that I can visit some of Pablo Neruda's places as A. was the one who introduced me to the poet.
It's really exciting to have a new destination in mind and within the week have that ticket booked and paid for making the 'dream' a reality.
So watch this space for more news as the plans take shape.
Thursday, April 06, 2006
WAKING FROM THE DREAM
THURSDAY, April 5/06
It was like a sudden jolt, waking from a beautiful dream to the nightmare that is LAX, Los Angeles Int. Airport. No, our plane landed smoothly and safely, but as soon as you disembark you can feel the stress level of being in the U.S.A. Where were all the happy, smiling faces, the courteous, gracious Malay people we had grown so fond of? We were hustled and bustled into yet more lineups, went through various rigorous security checks, and then had to wait seven hours in that dingy, uninviting airport. After clean and sparkling Kuala Lumpur and the Tai Pai airports it was quite a shock! Disgusting, actually.
Our flight from K.L. left at 10.30 a.m. Saturday morning. Four hours later we landed in Taipei for an hour refuelling stop. Then the long, rather cramped, flight across the Pacific which was around 17 hours. Landed in LAX at 9.30 a.m. Saturday morning. Then we waited another 7 hours before boarding our flight to Vancouver. Arrived here about 9.30 pm and went straight to the hotel that my travel buddy had booked for us. A brilliant idea!
What a lovely surprise for two weary travellers to find two long-stemmed red roses and a bottle of champagne, welcome home gifts from her husband!
After a long sleep, we finally headed to our homes on Sunday noon. Yes, I'm home now but still feeling rather disembobulated, though I think the worst of it is over now. For a few days my brain was frazzled and I was really in that lovely dream-world of Malaysia, still imgining the white sandy beach under the palms. The first few nights I laid awake thinking of everything that has happened in the last two weeks. Yes, it is like a dream. And now, the reality, the culture shock sets in. But we have such lovely memories.
Here's a recap of some of the 'best' and 'worst' and most fun things of the trip:
#1 best was just being there. Every day was a wonder!
#1 worst being at LAX (both going and coming home!)
#1 best fun time There were so many, but perhaps one of the most memorable was being on theisland with all those monkeys, seeing them up-close and personal in their own habitat.
#1 disappointment Unfortunately, the Lagoon Resort pool was closed for 4 of the 7 days we were there. We did, however get to swim on a couple of gorgeous beaches during that time.
#1 Most memorable dining experience: There were several, but I think the Malay restaurant our driver Hasbullah took us to was the best. Not just the ambience and the food, but finding those fragrant flowers floating in the loo was one example of the care and thoughtfulness of these people.
#1 Most disappointing meal: It was a rip-off, really and a lesson we learned was, ask first if they are weighing the lobster meat only or including the shell. It was a not-very-tastey and horribly expensive meal at that Chinese Seafood Restaurant. Shocking big mistake!
#1. Most special event: Hard to choose. But for me, the personal tour around Rimbun Dahan,
the Centre for Contemporary and Traditional Art and the botanical gardens.
#1 Most disappointing event: I guess it was not being able to get tickets to go up in the Petronas Twin Towers. We went early to wait in line, but had to leave because of tour driver was picking us up. So we didn't get an opportunity to experience the thrill of this. But we compensated by going up the telecommunications tower instead.
Would I go to Malaysia again? Most certainly! It is a destination I would recommend for sure. This trip was a gift (door-prize) from the B.C. Association of Travel Writers, at a gala sponsored by Malaysian Tourism and I am deeply appreciative of the opportunity. We were treated like the Queen Bees everywhere we went. We were both touched and thrilled by the hospitality and friendliness of the Malay people. Kuala Lumpur is an amazing city and we only wished we'd had more time to explore it. Langkawi is a laid-back, lovely isalnd, not yet over-run with tourists (such as neighbouring Thailand). And most of all, we felt safe and welcome and were treated respectfully and generously by the gracious Malay people wherever we went. We were impressed with the efficiency of the tour operators and drivers. It was definitely a vacation I will not forget!
It was like a sudden jolt, waking from a beautiful dream to the nightmare that is LAX, Los Angeles Int. Airport. No, our plane landed smoothly and safely, but as soon as you disembark you can feel the stress level of being in the U.S.A. Where were all the happy, smiling faces, the courteous, gracious Malay people we had grown so fond of? We were hustled and bustled into yet more lineups, went through various rigorous security checks, and then had to wait seven hours in that dingy, uninviting airport. After clean and sparkling Kuala Lumpur and the Tai Pai airports it was quite a shock! Disgusting, actually.
Our flight from K.L. left at 10.30 a.m. Saturday morning. Four hours later we landed in Taipei for an hour refuelling stop. Then the long, rather cramped, flight across the Pacific which was around 17 hours. Landed in LAX at 9.30 a.m. Saturday morning. Then we waited another 7 hours before boarding our flight to Vancouver. Arrived here about 9.30 pm and went straight to the hotel that my travel buddy had booked for us. A brilliant idea!
What a lovely surprise for two weary travellers to find two long-stemmed red roses and a bottle of champagne, welcome home gifts from her husband!
After a long sleep, we finally headed to our homes on Sunday noon. Yes, I'm home now but still feeling rather disembobulated, though I think the worst of it is over now. For a few days my brain was frazzled and I was really in that lovely dream-world of Malaysia, still imgining the white sandy beach under the palms. The first few nights I laid awake thinking of everything that has happened in the last two weeks. Yes, it is like a dream. And now, the reality, the culture shock sets in. But we have such lovely memories.
Here's a recap of some of the 'best' and 'worst' and most fun things of the trip:
#1 best was just being there. Every day was a wonder!
#1 worst being at LAX (both going and coming home!)
#1 best fun time There were so many, but perhaps one of the most memorable was being on theisland with all those monkeys, seeing them up-close and personal in their own habitat.
#1 disappointment Unfortunately, the Lagoon Resort pool was closed for 4 of the 7 days we were there. We did, however get to swim on a couple of gorgeous beaches during that time.
#1 Most memorable dining experience: There were several, but I think the Malay restaurant our driver Hasbullah took us to was the best. Not just the ambience and the food, but finding those fragrant flowers floating in the loo was one example of the care and thoughtfulness of these people.
#1 Most disappointing meal: It was a rip-off, really and a lesson we learned was, ask first if they are weighing the lobster meat only or including the shell. It was a not-very-tastey and horribly expensive meal at that Chinese Seafood Restaurant. Shocking big mistake!
#1. Most special event: Hard to choose. But for me, the personal tour around Rimbun Dahan,
the Centre for Contemporary and Traditional Art and the botanical gardens.
#1 Most disappointing event: I guess it was not being able to get tickets to go up in the Petronas Twin Towers. We went early to wait in line, but had to leave because of tour driver was picking us up. So we didn't get an opportunity to experience the thrill of this. But we compensated by going up the telecommunications tower instead.
Would I go to Malaysia again? Most certainly! It is a destination I would recommend for sure. This trip was a gift (door-prize) from the B.C. Association of Travel Writers, at a gala sponsored by Malaysian Tourism and I am deeply appreciative of the opportunity. We were treated like the Queen Bees everywhere we went. We were both touched and thrilled by the hospitality and friendliness of the Malay people. Kuala Lumpur is an amazing city and we only wished we'd had more time to explore it. Langkawi is a laid-back, lovely isalnd, not yet over-run with tourists (such as neighbouring Thailand). And most of all, we felt safe and welcome and were treated respectfully and generously by the gracious Malay people wherever we went. We were impressed with the efficiency of the tour operators and drivers. It was definitely a vacation I will not forget!
Friday, March 31, 2006
A FAREWELL TO PARADISE
Friday, March 31.
It's our last night in Malaysia. Tomorrow morning we board the plane for the long, long flight home via L.A. with a 5 hour stop-over. We won't arrive in Vancouver til evening (the same day we left here. Amazing!) but we're staying at an airport hotel until Sunday to rest up.
We got to Kuala Lumpur around noon today after a quick and easy flight from Langkawi. It's a beautiful country to fly over and especially today when it was clear most of the way. You look down as see all those emerald islands in the blue Adaman Sea, with their edges all white with sand. Then, over the mainland, the acres and acres of grids of palm-oil palms; the orange patches of wet soil where padi fields are, and all the other shades of green foliage.
Our driver was waiting on schedule at the K.L. airport. We are so impressed with the efficiency and well-organized tour operators here. Not one glitch! And all so courteous and helpful.
We got wisked back the 1 hr. drive to the city and deposited like arriving royalty at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Oh my! We are so spoiled and pampered! This is the most fabulous place and everyone goes out of their way to be pleasant and helpful. It was like a homecoming as they mostly all recognized us from last week and greeted us warmly.
We went next door to the mall for lunch. By this time it was around 1 pm and we were very hungry. This was our first glitch...the cafe service was so slow. We waited nearly an hour before we finally got our order and we were not impressed. This was the first time it has happened on this trip. I actually think the young waitress forgot to place our order but every time we asked her she brushed us off. This was certainly not the usual type of behavior here and we got very cross (besides being starving).
Then we went to the mall (this is the big fancy expensive one) to shop. I wanted one of those pirate t-shirts and picked up a couple of last minute items (forgot some) and back to the hotel for an afternoon swim in the pool at the edge of the sky. Yes. The pool is on the third floor and the water is level with the edge of the building so it looks like you are going to swim off into space. Quite incredible. And very beautiful. We managed a couple of swims and then the storm clouds rolled in and it began to rain quite heavily so that ended our pool day.
While we were sitting there contemplating all our adventures and enjoying the magnificent view of Kuala Lumpur, I was tyring to process everything, realized I'd have lots more stories to tell when I get home. For one thing, this city is a wonder. The architecture, the lovely parks, the friendliness of the people...And one unique thing is sitting there by the poolside and suddenly hearing the Muezzin's call to prayer. Quite a magical and captivating sound. You hear it several times a day but from the rooftop it is clearer. We both agreed it was one thing we wouldn't forget about this city. It reminded us both of Istanbul in that respect.
So tonight, for our extravaganza farewell we dressed up in our fancy duds and went downstairs to one of the fine restaurants in this hotel. We had decided to make it a real treat, and it was.
Here's a sample of the menu: I had sorrel salad, radichio, young artichokes in a walnut balsamic dressing; tasmanian salmon with yuzu, sea urchin sauce, broad beans mouseline and seared crocant (?); My friend Ruth had crab meat cappucino w/saffron, tomato and shark fin and forest mushrooms with sage and aubergine jus, and tomato lasagna and we had sauteed mushrooms for appetizers; glasses of wine; coffee served with little sweets on the side; and a wine glass with various chocolates for a treat. Mmmm delicious! And of course the service was exquisite! Of course this cost us, but it was worth it. Around $65 a piece but believe me it was an unforgettable experience. And since we get the room paid for thanks to Malaysian Tourism, why not splurge, eh?
That was our memorable last day in Malaysia. This has been truly the experience of a lifetime and for sure I won't forget it soon and will always feel so grateful to the Malay people and Malaysian Tourism for giving me this opportunity. There ought to be quite a few good stories out of it too. And many more tales to tell.
It's our last night in Malaysia. Tomorrow morning we board the plane for the long, long flight home via L.A. with a 5 hour stop-over. We won't arrive in Vancouver til evening (the same day we left here. Amazing!) but we're staying at an airport hotel until Sunday to rest up.
We got to Kuala Lumpur around noon today after a quick and easy flight from Langkawi. It's a beautiful country to fly over and especially today when it was clear most of the way. You look down as see all those emerald islands in the blue Adaman Sea, with their edges all white with sand. Then, over the mainland, the acres and acres of grids of palm-oil palms; the orange patches of wet soil where padi fields are, and all the other shades of green foliage.
Our driver was waiting on schedule at the K.L. airport. We are so impressed with the efficiency and well-organized tour operators here. Not one glitch! And all so courteous and helpful.
We got wisked back the 1 hr. drive to the city and deposited like arriving royalty at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Oh my! We are so spoiled and pampered! This is the most fabulous place and everyone goes out of their way to be pleasant and helpful. It was like a homecoming as they mostly all recognized us from last week and greeted us warmly.
We went next door to the mall for lunch. By this time it was around 1 pm and we were very hungry. This was our first glitch...the cafe service was so slow. We waited nearly an hour before we finally got our order and we were not impressed. This was the first time it has happened on this trip. I actually think the young waitress forgot to place our order but every time we asked her she brushed us off. This was certainly not the usual type of behavior here and we got very cross (besides being starving).
Then we went to the mall (this is the big fancy expensive one) to shop. I wanted one of those pirate t-shirts and picked up a couple of last minute items (forgot some) and back to the hotel for an afternoon swim in the pool at the edge of the sky. Yes. The pool is on the third floor and the water is level with the edge of the building so it looks like you are going to swim off into space. Quite incredible. And very beautiful. We managed a couple of swims and then the storm clouds rolled in and it began to rain quite heavily so that ended our pool day.
While we were sitting there contemplating all our adventures and enjoying the magnificent view of Kuala Lumpur, I was tyring to process everything, realized I'd have lots more stories to tell when I get home. For one thing, this city is a wonder. The architecture, the lovely parks, the friendliness of the people...And one unique thing is sitting there by the poolside and suddenly hearing the Muezzin's call to prayer. Quite a magical and captivating sound. You hear it several times a day but from the rooftop it is clearer. We both agreed it was one thing we wouldn't forget about this city. It reminded us both of Istanbul in that respect.
So tonight, for our extravaganza farewell we dressed up in our fancy duds and went downstairs to one of the fine restaurants in this hotel. We had decided to make it a real treat, and it was.
Here's a sample of the menu: I had sorrel salad, radichio, young artichokes in a walnut balsamic dressing; tasmanian salmon with yuzu, sea urchin sauce, broad beans mouseline and seared crocant (?); My friend Ruth had crab meat cappucino w/saffron, tomato and shark fin and forest mushrooms with sage and aubergine jus, and tomato lasagna and we had sauteed mushrooms for appetizers; glasses of wine; coffee served with little sweets on the side; and a wine glass with various chocolates for a treat. Mmmm delicious! And of course the service was exquisite! Of course this cost us, but it was worth it. Around $65 a piece but believe me it was an unforgettable experience. And since we get the room paid for thanks to Malaysian Tourism, why not splurge, eh?
That was our memorable last day in Malaysia. This has been truly the experience of a lifetime and for sure I won't forget it soon and will always feel so grateful to the Malay people and Malaysian Tourism for giving me this opportunity. There ought to be quite a few good stories out of it too. And many more tales to tell.
Thursday, March 30, 2006
A LAZY DAY IN THE TROPICAL SUN
March 30/06
Our last day on Langkawi. The pool was open today (at last!) and the sun was shining except for a brief time in the morning when there was a sudden strong wind blowing up white-caps on the lagoon, and sending the flocks of birds flapping out of the palms. Big black storm clouds were scudding across the sky but fortunately the wind blew them right over and the sun broke through again so our pool day wasn't spoiled after all.
In the morning, first thing, we took a cab into Kuah to the bank and Praise the Lord! that nice little ATM machine spit out all kinds of ringits for me, replacing what we'd spent the other night on that extravagent lobster dinner!
So this evening, after our pool day, own personal taxi driver, Hasbullah, picked us up promptly at seven to take us for dinner. We had asked him to suggest a good place to eat. He suggested either Chinese or Malay but of course we chose Malay. He drove us to this beautiful traditional style restaraunt called the Matahari Malay Restaurant. It's like a little compound of traditional Malay buildings with gardens, palms, flowering shrubs, cobbled pathways lit by little lamps,
and bird baths full of flowers and tiny frogs. Just charming! We were greeted at the entrance by a bevy of lovely young Malay women who escorted us in with the usual happy smiles.
It looks to be a very expensive place but is actually quite reasonable. For our dinner we chose
Sayur Masaic Loder which was vegetables cooked in coconut milk, vermicelli and bean curb. (5 ringits = $2.50) Ayam Gulai Kampung: chicken cooked in a clay pot with shallots, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, curry leaf, lemon leaf, tumeric and coconut milk (15 ringits= $5.) a plate of rice ( 5R), cocktails were 10 R = $3.50 and beer 6 R = $2. Each dish was attractively garnished with a darling little red pepper cut into flower petals with green leaves. I took some photos it was so beautiful so I hope they turn out!
Traditional Malay music played while we ate and the service was superb. (Unlike the other restaraunt where we had to infamous lobster dinner, there were NO bugs flying around at all even though there were lily ponds and little fountains splashing around us.)
After dinner we looked around. I was amazed when I went into the washroom which not only had Malay decor but sprays of fragrant white egg-flowers (like plumeria) and there were even some floating in the toilets!
There's another restaurant that is part of the complex called The Sun Village Sea Food. (We should have had our lobster there!) and little individual dining rooms decorated with Malay furnishings, cushions etc. So attractive!
We were very grateful to our driver to taking us there and I must say he was the most gracious fellow, so kind, gentle and considerate, waiting for us each time he drove us out for dinner. And the cab drivers here don't rip you off like elsewhere. In fact tonight he charged us less than usual. Of course we have been tipping him generously for his kindness.
As this was our last night here. After we got back we went to the Beach Bistro but there was no music tonight. So we had a beer (the boys put on the salsa music for us) and then ordered a Hennessy brandy to take up to our room. (Expensive at 24 ringits for a hefty shot: $7.50)
But worth it for our last celebration.
Up early tomorrow for our 55 minute flight into Kuala Lumpur. Then we'll spend the day lounging at the pool in the sky and browsing around that fabulous shopping mall. There's a pirate T-shirt there I am determined to buy and fortunately I am still rich enough to do so!
It's been a memorable holiday. There will be many more stories to tell once I've processed it all. And hopefully the photos will all turn out (in particular the rolls of slide film).
See you all next week in Vancouver!
Our last day on Langkawi. The pool was open today (at last!) and the sun was shining except for a brief time in the morning when there was a sudden strong wind blowing up white-caps on the lagoon, and sending the flocks of birds flapping out of the palms. Big black storm clouds were scudding across the sky but fortunately the wind blew them right over and the sun broke through again so our pool day wasn't spoiled after all.
In the morning, first thing, we took a cab into Kuah to the bank and Praise the Lord! that nice little ATM machine spit out all kinds of ringits for me, replacing what we'd spent the other night on that extravagent lobster dinner!
So this evening, after our pool day, own personal taxi driver, Hasbullah, picked us up promptly at seven to take us for dinner. We had asked him to suggest a good place to eat. He suggested either Chinese or Malay but of course we chose Malay. He drove us to this beautiful traditional style restaraunt called the Matahari Malay Restaurant. It's like a little compound of traditional Malay buildings with gardens, palms, flowering shrubs, cobbled pathways lit by little lamps,
and bird baths full of flowers and tiny frogs. Just charming! We were greeted at the entrance by a bevy of lovely young Malay women who escorted us in with the usual happy smiles.
It looks to be a very expensive place but is actually quite reasonable. For our dinner we chose
Sayur Masaic Loder which was vegetables cooked in coconut milk, vermicelli and bean curb. (5 ringits = $2.50) Ayam Gulai Kampung: chicken cooked in a clay pot with shallots, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, curry leaf, lemon leaf, tumeric and coconut milk (15 ringits= $5.) a plate of rice ( 5R), cocktails were 10 R = $3.50 and beer 6 R = $2. Each dish was attractively garnished with a darling little red pepper cut into flower petals with green leaves. I took some photos it was so beautiful so I hope they turn out!
Traditional Malay music played while we ate and the service was superb. (Unlike the other restaraunt where we had to infamous lobster dinner, there were NO bugs flying around at all even though there were lily ponds and little fountains splashing around us.)
After dinner we looked around. I was amazed when I went into the washroom which not only had Malay decor but sprays of fragrant white egg-flowers (like plumeria) and there were even some floating in the toilets!
There's another restaurant that is part of the complex called The Sun Village Sea Food. (We should have had our lobster there!) and little individual dining rooms decorated with Malay furnishings, cushions etc. So attractive!
We were very grateful to our driver to taking us there and I must say he was the most gracious fellow, so kind, gentle and considerate, waiting for us each time he drove us out for dinner. And the cab drivers here don't rip you off like elsewhere. In fact tonight he charged us less than usual. Of course we have been tipping him generously for his kindness.
As this was our last night here. After we got back we went to the Beach Bistro but there was no music tonight. So we had a beer (the boys put on the salsa music for us) and then ordered a Hennessy brandy to take up to our room. (Expensive at 24 ringits for a hefty shot: $7.50)
But worth it for our last celebration.
Up early tomorrow for our 55 minute flight into Kuala Lumpur. Then we'll spend the day lounging at the pool in the sky and browsing around that fabulous shopping mall. There's a pirate T-shirt there I am determined to buy and fortunately I am still rich enough to do so!
It's been a memorable holiday. There will be many more stories to tell once I've processed it all. And hopefully the photos will all turn out (in particular the rolls of slide film).
See you all next week in Vancouver!
Wednesday, March 29, 2006
THE MANGROVE FOREST
WEDNESDAY, March 29/06
Today we took a boat trip from a Malay fishing village up the Kilim River through the mangrove forest. It reminded me a lot of the bayous in Louisianna except there the trees are Cypress and there are alligators in the swamps. The forest is dense and swampy here and there are many species of wild life such as pythons, minoter lizards, small crocs and of course the monkeys. We even saw some 'mangrove' dogs, (Malay dingos), a small russet- coloured dog that can run about in the muck and mire without sinking.
One of our first stops was to a rocky island (Flying Fox Island) to see the hundreds of huge bats (called flying foxes or flying dogs) who inhabit it. There were dozens of them hanging from the trees. Their wing span can reach 1.2 meters. They prey on the lizards and other smaller wild life on the island and in turn they are preyed upon by the eagles who we saw hovering around.
Before we entered the river delta, we stopped at a place where you could feed the eagles. Langkawi means "brown eagle", the symbol of the island. These are the white-bellied sea eagles and there were also brahamian (brown) kites -- hundreds of them who circle the boats coming down to feed. The guide explained they only give them tid-bits so as not to disrupt the natural habits of the birds and make them dependant on hand-outs from the tourist boats.
Journeying up the river was an adventure. There are so many shades of green, even the river is green, and the jungle and mangrove forest is thick and lush. The mangrove trees grow right down into the water, their roots sometimes exposed at low tide. They are many species of wild life here and we saw a small croc swimming across the river (about the size of a caymen) and also moniter lizards. The mangrove trees have been used for the production of charcoal and we visited an abandoned charcoal 'factory' with the kiln and houses where workers lived. Now this mangrove forest is protected by the ecologists and forestry service so the mangrove charcoal factory here has been closed.
Farther up the river, we stopped at a fish farm -- not one for commecial use, but one where tourists can view the various fishes. We teetered along the wooden plank floats and watched our guide feed various species of fish including a manta ray ("sexy lips") a barracuda, and sea bass as well as others. We had stopped along our cruise to feed a school of colorful yellow and black stripped zebra fish cracker crumbs but that was the only fish-feeding I did myself this day. We could hold the horseshoe crabs if we wanted and he tried to pick up the slippery polka-dotted moray eel but it preferred to hide in it's pipe hideaway.
Before lunch we stopped at the bat caves. This it the habitat of the fruit bat, a small bat which we saw clinging by the hundreds to the ceiling of the caves. There are also colourful stalagtites in the cave. We'd been warned about the smell but the bat guano wasn't too stinky.
Our lunch was a buffet at a unique restaurant, The Barn Thai, which was a big wooden building built like the traditional Thai and Malay houses. We shared a table with a friendly Welsh couple who were part of our tour group. They came from a town near Caerphilly where my Dad came from and my cousins live so it was fun talking to them. After lunch we cruised back down the river to the Adaman Sea and along the rugged coast to a beautiful white-sand beach, Tanjung Ruh, where we stopped for a most refreshing swim!
Today the weather was hot and sunny, about 33C or more with a very high humidity. It's the first day since we arrived that it hasn't rained at some point so we were grateful for all that sunshine although it was far to hot to be out in it for long.
Tonight we opted to go to the Beach Bistro. Of course we went at 7 pm and had a light meal, with Tiger beer which is cheap and good (not that extravaganza of last night!) The music starts at 8, the duo who sings there are very good and sing a lot of old familiar and excellent songs, and have beautiful voices. We were the only audience but probably because it was so early. Left there before the first set finished though I would have liked to linger longer. Back to the hotel. Brandy and a nice talk on the balcony (steamy hot out there) and that's it for the night. By 9 I'm in the computer room -- a regular guest here these days. We have one more night here - tomorrow. Hopefully the pool will be open so we can spend most of it swimming and sunning. We've asked our taxi driver to pick us up by seven to go for a specail dinner (his suggestion of a restaurant). Then on Friday we're heading back to Kuala Lumpur. It's been a simply wonderful visit here...fulfilling a life's dream of lazing on a tropical island. I'm grateful for every moment of it and have a supply of stories to entertain my friends with for some time to come.
Today we took a boat trip from a Malay fishing village up the Kilim River through the mangrove forest. It reminded me a lot of the bayous in Louisianna except there the trees are Cypress and there are alligators in the swamps. The forest is dense and swampy here and there are many species of wild life such as pythons, minoter lizards, small crocs and of course the monkeys. We even saw some 'mangrove' dogs, (Malay dingos), a small russet- coloured dog that can run about in the muck and mire without sinking.
One of our first stops was to a rocky island (Flying Fox Island) to see the hundreds of huge bats (called flying foxes or flying dogs) who inhabit it. There were dozens of them hanging from the trees. Their wing span can reach 1.2 meters. They prey on the lizards and other smaller wild life on the island and in turn they are preyed upon by the eagles who we saw hovering around.
Before we entered the river delta, we stopped at a place where you could feed the eagles. Langkawi means "brown eagle", the symbol of the island. These are the white-bellied sea eagles and there were also brahamian (brown) kites -- hundreds of them who circle the boats coming down to feed. The guide explained they only give them tid-bits so as not to disrupt the natural habits of the birds and make them dependant on hand-outs from the tourist boats.
Journeying up the river was an adventure. There are so many shades of green, even the river is green, and the jungle and mangrove forest is thick and lush. The mangrove trees grow right down into the water, their roots sometimes exposed at low tide. They are many species of wild life here and we saw a small croc swimming across the river (about the size of a caymen) and also moniter lizards. The mangrove trees have been used for the production of charcoal and we visited an abandoned charcoal 'factory' with the kiln and houses where workers lived. Now this mangrove forest is protected by the ecologists and forestry service so the mangrove charcoal factory here has been closed.
Farther up the river, we stopped at a fish farm -- not one for commecial use, but one where tourists can view the various fishes. We teetered along the wooden plank floats and watched our guide feed various species of fish including a manta ray ("sexy lips") a barracuda, and sea bass as well as others. We had stopped along our cruise to feed a school of colorful yellow and black stripped zebra fish cracker crumbs but that was the only fish-feeding I did myself this day. We could hold the horseshoe crabs if we wanted and he tried to pick up the slippery polka-dotted moray eel but it preferred to hide in it's pipe hideaway.
Before lunch we stopped at the bat caves. This it the habitat of the fruit bat, a small bat which we saw clinging by the hundreds to the ceiling of the caves. There are also colourful stalagtites in the cave. We'd been warned about the smell but the bat guano wasn't too stinky.
Our lunch was a buffet at a unique restaurant, The Barn Thai, which was a big wooden building built like the traditional Thai and Malay houses. We shared a table with a friendly Welsh couple who were part of our tour group. They came from a town near Caerphilly where my Dad came from and my cousins live so it was fun talking to them. After lunch we cruised back down the river to the Adaman Sea and along the rugged coast to a beautiful white-sand beach, Tanjung Ruh, where we stopped for a most refreshing swim!
Today the weather was hot and sunny, about 33C or more with a very high humidity. It's the first day since we arrived that it hasn't rained at some point so we were grateful for all that sunshine although it was far to hot to be out in it for long.
Tonight we opted to go to the Beach Bistro. Of course we went at 7 pm and had a light meal, with Tiger beer which is cheap and good (not that extravaganza of last night!) The music starts at 8, the duo who sings there are very good and sing a lot of old familiar and excellent songs, and have beautiful voices. We were the only audience but probably because it was so early. Left there before the first set finished though I would have liked to linger longer. Back to the hotel. Brandy and a nice talk on the balcony (steamy hot out there) and that's it for the night. By 9 I'm in the computer room -- a regular guest here these days. We have one more night here - tomorrow. Hopefully the pool will be open so we can spend most of it swimming and sunning. We've asked our taxi driver to pick us up by seven to go for a specail dinner (his suggestion of a restaurant). Then on Friday we're heading back to Kuala Lumpur. It's been a simply wonderful visit here...fulfilling a life's dream of lazing on a tropical island. I'm grateful for every moment of it and have a supply of stories to entertain my friends with for some time to come.
Tuesday, March 28, 2006
MANGO GROVES, SHOPPING MALLS AND THE BIG LOBSTER FIASCO
MARCH 28, Tuesday (We are so discombobulated I can never remember what day it is!)
As the pool is still closed, this morning we decided to swim in the lagoon. The tide was right and the water very warm, though murkey. But on second dip I discovered these critters that looked like jelly fish lining the shore -- perhaps the kind that give you a nasty sting. And a Swiss tourist told us he'd seen a small shark lurking out there yesterday, following the fish boats in. So I didn't go back in. (I realized later those jelly things might have been cuttle-fish and therefore harmless.)
Our personal taxi driver Hasbullah, picked us up at noon (promptly) and drove us into Kuah (Kwa) for our day of shopping. He's such a congenial fellow and takes time to point out sights along the way. Today we saw lots of herds of water buffaloes in the fields. And he showed us the rubber plantations (they tap the trees only in the sunshine and get 3 ringits a litre for the rubber. That's about $1.) The countryside here is lush and beautiful with trees and vegetations. We drove past the padi fields, and fruit orchards: mango groves, and orchards of guava and star fruit. There was one fruit farm with greenhouses.
In Kuah we went first to the bank to change traveler's cheques and then on to the mall. Hasbullah waited for us to do our transactions. But at the mall we told him not to wait as we planned to shop til we dropped. And we did. Shopping here is fantastic as the prices are so low and some shops also had 20% discounts! Examples: souvenier t-shirts for 4 R ($1.50); Lovely Indian cotton shirts for 50 R. ($16.50) a bottle of French brandy (duty free) for only 32 R ($10)
Needless to say we shopped til we could not carry another item and in all that extravaganza I think I only spent about $160.
Then re retreated to a cafe for a cold Tiger beer (4 R a glass. $1.50)
Tonight Hasbaullah picked us up promptly at 7 to drive us to a seafood restaurant. It costs 20 R each way to town (about $6.50) or to the cafe we went to. It's about 22 kilometer into town.
Here's were we met with our one and only spending disaster. This was a very attractive restaurant, The Tang Lung Seafood Restaurant. We were quite impressed when we went there -- everything red and Chinese with bonzai trees around and cute little waitresses. We came especially for lobster which was advertised as 22 R. per 100 grams. We were asked to choose a live lobster from the tank so we took the largest as there were two of us. Little did we realize they weigh the thing shell and all. We had the lobsster which wasn't that great as it was breaded and not any more than 100 grams of meat somewhere in the breading, two plates of bok choy in garlic and some spring rolls, wine and beer. Meanwhile, the music was horrible and played over and over and over again this medely of old-time favorites with canned accompaniment. And then the bugs descended swarming around the lights and landing on us and our food. One light fixture had several small lizards inside having a feast of their own.
I must add that the lobster was a very large handsome fellow. I think he swelled with the cooking and took up the whole platter with his feelers upright looking very regal. We had our picture taken with him. But then the bill came. We were astounded (and lucky for us we scraped together the money or we'd probably be in a Malay jail right now!) The bill totalled 343.20 R
(with 7 R tip each, divided by two it cost ust 174.4o R. each which amounts to about $60 a piece. Both of us were financially wiped out and hopefully I'll get the bank machine to work on Thursday when we go into town (hadn't planned on it, wanted to spend the whole day by the pool, but it's necessary now!)
Anyway, we got home okay as our driver was waiting for us. We tipped him generously too and then both of us were broke except for the money we need for our mangrove forest tour tomorrow. Well, it was our mistake and I guess we can count it as an experience. And after all so much of this marvelous trip has been paid for.
Hasbullah is going to pick us up on Thursday evening and we asked him to suggest a good restaurant to take us to. Tomorrow we go on the mangrove forest boat trip and that includes lunch. Don't worry, we aren't about to starve or get stranded yet!
So tune in tomorrow for more of our adventures!
As the pool is still closed, this morning we decided to swim in the lagoon. The tide was right and the water very warm, though murkey. But on second dip I discovered these critters that looked like jelly fish lining the shore -- perhaps the kind that give you a nasty sting. And a Swiss tourist told us he'd seen a small shark lurking out there yesterday, following the fish boats in. So I didn't go back in. (I realized later those jelly things might have been cuttle-fish and therefore harmless.)
Our personal taxi driver Hasbullah, picked us up at noon (promptly) and drove us into Kuah (Kwa) for our day of shopping. He's such a congenial fellow and takes time to point out sights along the way. Today we saw lots of herds of water buffaloes in the fields. And he showed us the rubber plantations (they tap the trees only in the sunshine and get 3 ringits a litre for the rubber. That's about $1.) The countryside here is lush and beautiful with trees and vegetations. We drove past the padi fields, and fruit orchards: mango groves, and orchards of guava and star fruit. There was one fruit farm with greenhouses.
In Kuah we went first to the bank to change traveler's cheques and then on to the mall. Hasbullah waited for us to do our transactions. But at the mall we told him not to wait as we planned to shop til we dropped. And we did. Shopping here is fantastic as the prices are so low and some shops also had 20% discounts! Examples: souvenier t-shirts for 4 R ($1.50); Lovely Indian cotton shirts for 50 R. ($16.50) a bottle of French brandy (duty free) for only 32 R ($10)
Needless to say we shopped til we could not carry another item and in all that extravaganza I think I only spent about $160.
Then re retreated to a cafe for a cold Tiger beer (4 R a glass. $1.50)
Tonight Hasbaullah picked us up promptly at 7 to drive us to a seafood restaurant. It costs 20 R each way to town (about $6.50) or to the cafe we went to. It's about 22 kilometer into town.
Here's were we met with our one and only spending disaster. This was a very attractive restaurant, The Tang Lung Seafood Restaurant. We were quite impressed when we went there -- everything red and Chinese with bonzai trees around and cute little waitresses. We came especially for lobster which was advertised as 22 R. per 100 grams. We were asked to choose a live lobster from the tank so we took the largest as there were two of us. Little did we realize they weigh the thing shell and all. We had the lobsster which wasn't that great as it was breaded and not any more than 100 grams of meat somewhere in the breading, two plates of bok choy in garlic and some spring rolls, wine and beer. Meanwhile, the music was horrible and played over and over and over again this medely of old-time favorites with canned accompaniment. And then the bugs descended swarming around the lights and landing on us and our food. One light fixture had several small lizards inside having a feast of their own.
I must add that the lobster was a very large handsome fellow. I think he swelled with the cooking and took up the whole platter with his feelers upright looking very regal. We had our picture taken with him. But then the bill came. We were astounded (and lucky for us we scraped together the money or we'd probably be in a Malay jail right now!) The bill totalled 343.20 R
(with 7 R tip each, divided by two it cost ust 174.4o R. each which amounts to about $60 a piece. Both of us were financially wiped out and hopefully I'll get the bank machine to work on Thursday when we go into town (hadn't planned on it, wanted to spend the whole day by the pool, but it's necessary now!)
Anyway, we got home okay as our driver was waiting for us. We tipped him generously too and then both of us were broke except for the money we need for our mangrove forest tour tomorrow. Well, it was our mistake and I guess we can count it as an experience. And after all so much of this marvelous trip has been paid for.
Hasbullah is going to pick us up on Thursday evening and we asked him to suggest a good restaurant to take us to. Tomorrow we go on the mangrove forest boat trip and that includes lunch. Don't worry, we aren't about to starve or get stranded yet!
So tune in tomorrow for more of our adventures!
Monday, March 27, 2006
THE LEGEND OF MAKRAN MAHSURI
March 27
We woke to a tropical rainstorm -- raining frogs and lizards -- but very steamy hot. We were scheduled for a round-the-island tour but delayed because of car trouble. The very congenial and informative young driver, Shoon, picked us up by noon with many appologise for the delay.
Then we headed off through the Langkawi countryside -- the padi fields with water buffalo wallowing in the mud accompanied by their ever-present friends the white egrets who willingly pluck the leeches and bugs off their backs. Our first stop (after picking two other passengers who were a very interesting couple from England) was to a Batik Craft bazaar. There we were shown the technique of batiks and even got to try out some for ourselves. It's such an interesting art form and so peaceful to do that I wouldn't mind trying my hand at it. The Malay batiks are exquisite, with the pattern on both sides of the cloth. I bought a couple of little pieces for table clothes.
The next stop was at a place that has a great significance in the island's history and legends. The burial site of Makran Mahsuri. It's a complicated and tragic story which I will try to condense here. This beautiful young maiden came here from Thailand (Siam) with her family and settled on Langkawi in around the mid 1800's. She married the son of the tribal chief and was well respected and loved by everyone who knew her not only for her beauty of countenance but of spirit. Unfortunatly, her mother-in-law, wife of the chief was horrible jealous of her. and when Mahsuri's husband left to accompany his father on tribal business, she set about a plan to destroy Mahsuri. She noticed Mahsuri talking to a traveling merchant and concocted a story that accused Mahsuri of adultery. She was arrested and tied to a tree, left for days int the heat and the rain while the verdict was decided. Accused of adultery, she was sentenced to death by imapling. The sentence was carried out despite her pleas of innocence. But no matter how many times they stabbed her she did not die. Finally, she conceded to death but said she would only die by the knife of her own father. And she said that to prove her innocence her blood would be white. She was eventually stabbed and white blood sprang out, never touching the ground but as she died she cursed the island and said that for seven generations the island would not prosper.
For years Langkawi was ignored by traders who sailed south to Penang, and beset by long wars against Siam. All the padi fields were burned so that the Siamese would not take them and to this day they say that after heavy rains the smell of the burnt padis can be detected.
Although part of this story is legend, a lot is true and there are newspaper reports posted in the museum as well as photos of the geneology of Matsuri's family, her husband and her son (who was an infant at her death and was spiritied away to another place).
Langkawi has not prospered until 1987 when things began to pick up (the movie "Anna and the King" with Jodie Foster was filmed here) and tourism is starting to take hold. Mainly the islanders survived on fishing, rubber plantations and padi fields. Most of the island is still rural areas with farming including some cattle.
After that very interesting and informative tour of the Mahsuri Mausoleum we went to the main town of Kuah and saw the giant brown eagle that guards the harbour, symbol of Langkawi.
Then a stop at the mall for lunch and shopping. Went to the duty free liquor store where you can get brandy for $15 (top brand) and other amazing bargains.
Tonight we went by cab to the Padi Cuisine Cafe for a delicious Malay dinner, right by the padi fields. So unique. The taxi driver offered to wait for us. Again, we were touched by the hospitality and kindness of these people. I'm sure I'll feel very sad when I leave here next weekend. This has been the most unique experience!
Tomorrow: Shop til you Drop!
We woke to a tropical rainstorm -- raining frogs and lizards -- but very steamy hot. We were scheduled for a round-the-island tour but delayed because of car trouble. The very congenial and informative young driver, Shoon, picked us up by noon with many appologise for the delay.
Then we headed off through the Langkawi countryside -- the padi fields with water buffalo wallowing in the mud accompanied by their ever-present friends the white egrets who willingly pluck the leeches and bugs off their backs. Our first stop (after picking two other passengers who were a very interesting couple from England) was to a Batik Craft bazaar. There we were shown the technique of batiks and even got to try out some for ourselves. It's such an interesting art form and so peaceful to do that I wouldn't mind trying my hand at it. The Malay batiks are exquisite, with the pattern on both sides of the cloth. I bought a couple of little pieces for table clothes.
The next stop was at a place that has a great significance in the island's history and legends. The burial site of Makran Mahsuri. It's a complicated and tragic story which I will try to condense here. This beautiful young maiden came here from Thailand (Siam) with her family and settled on Langkawi in around the mid 1800's. She married the son of the tribal chief and was well respected and loved by everyone who knew her not only for her beauty of countenance but of spirit. Unfortunatly, her mother-in-law, wife of the chief was horrible jealous of her. and when Mahsuri's husband left to accompany his father on tribal business, she set about a plan to destroy Mahsuri. She noticed Mahsuri talking to a traveling merchant and concocted a story that accused Mahsuri of adultery. She was arrested and tied to a tree, left for days int the heat and the rain while the verdict was decided. Accused of adultery, she was sentenced to death by imapling. The sentence was carried out despite her pleas of innocence. But no matter how many times they stabbed her she did not die. Finally, she conceded to death but said she would only die by the knife of her own father. And she said that to prove her innocence her blood would be white. She was eventually stabbed and white blood sprang out, never touching the ground but as she died she cursed the island and said that for seven generations the island would not prosper.
For years Langkawi was ignored by traders who sailed south to Penang, and beset by long wars against Siam. All the padi fields were burned so that the Siamese would not take them and to this day they say that after heavy rains the smell of the burnt padis can be detected.
Although part of this story is legend, a lot is true and there are newspaper reports posted in the museum as well as photos of the geneology of Matsuri's family, her husband and her son (who was an infant at her death and was spiritied away to another place).
Langkawi has not prospered until 1987 when things began to pick up (the movie "Anna and the King" with Jodie Foster was filmed here) and tourism is starting to take hold. Mainly the islanders survived on fishing, rubber plantations and padi fields. Most of the island is still rural areas with farming including some cattle.
After that very interesting and informative tour of the Mahsuri Mausoleum we went to the main town of Kuah and saw the giant brown eagle that guards the harbour, symbol of Langkawi.
Then a stop at the mall for lunch and shopping. Went to the duty free liquor store where you can get brandy for $15 (top brand) and other amazing bargains.
Tonight we went by cab to the Padi Cuisine Cafe for a delicious Malay dinner, right by the padi fields. So unique. The taxi driver offered to wait for us. Again, we were touched by the hospitality and kindness of these people. I'm sure I'll feel very sad when I leave here next weekend. This has been the most unique experience!
Tomorrow: Shop til you Drop!
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