SHIRLEY VALENTINE ON NAXOS

JUNE 13/14

When I arrived back to the Irea Beach Hotel Studios yesterday I felt as if I'd come 'home' in some ways. The young women who work in reception (two cousins), are incredibly warm and welcomed me back. I have a little suite all to myself with a tiny balcony overlooking the entrance patio and a glimse of the sea over the archway and magenta bougainvillea.

My main destination yesterday (the 13th) was the beach and later I ate dinner at a tavern by the sea, then stopped for a delicious praline iced coffeee at the Banana beach bistro. They were playing the kind of music I enjoy and, appropriately a Shirley Bassie tune "This is my Life! Let me live. This is my life, this is me!" Pretty well my mantra! (She was a favorite of Robbie's and me and we used to listen to her songs and often cry.)

I had a bit too much ouzo before the evening started and cameh ome to an uneasy sleep although the ouzo had settled my stomach somewhat. (Did I mention that I had eaten fava and three nut/honey bars on amorgos which set my tummy into an IBS mode. Very unpleasant with cramps and all). Anyway, I dreamed I was with Rosalie and we had to climb a high ladder platform to reach where we were going. Some of the rungs or steps were broken off andit was quite impossible for me with my short legs to reach the next level. But eventually with her help we got to the top without falling down.

This was perhaps a portent for the following day, June 14, whichturned into a rather u p and down day.

I woke early and headed down the road to Maragas Beach whereI had camped the last time I was on Naxos. This entire coast is sandy beaches and Maragas isone of the best, followed by Plaka Beach which has to be one of the most gorgeous beaches I've ever swam at.

There's been some changes -- Maragas Campground has definitely improved and though the beaches, especailly Plaka, are no longer the idyllic desrted island kindof beaches a before, even with the beach umbrellas and lounge chairs they are still uncrowded and outstanding. There was hardly anyone there whenI arrived so I found a chair (free) and had the sea almost to myself, clear aqua and not even a pebble underfoot, just silky soft golden sand.

It was only a 10 - 15 minute walk back to Aghia Anna where I am staying. I settled things up re my room with Carola in Athens and the reception girl who is so hospitable, got my ticket for tomorrow's island tour. Then I walked the ten minutes along the beach to the next beach, Prokovia, and that's where my 'down' day began.

I fainnly found a decent internet connection, except it was in German, and was able to check email and other business though I wasn't able to access my blogs. When I checked my bank accounts I had a major shock. Last week when I'd checked my VISA balance it was looking good so I wasn't too worried. Couldn't check meantime, and when I did I was horrified to find out I'd maxed out my one card. (there was still a balance in the other one which is for my hotel payment, but I am scared there might be sometime hidden on there that might have nasty surprise for me. Keeping my fingers crossed on that one.) I ended up in a panic over this, stomach ache and all, andit ruined my day worrying over stuff I have no control over until I see Carola next week re the hotel bill. I know, unliked the tourism people at Amorgos, she has found me really good deals so far. (I learned today this studio is actually 80 euro but she has it for me at a lower rate.) I realize there is nothing I can do about this just now. at least I have my ferry ticket back to Athens for Saturday morning and will be staying with my friends ther til I leave, but I am very dismayed and upset with myself for not being more diligent and watchful of my spending.

I came back to my studio, slept on it, and thenwent for a late afternoon swim. (Again, got the beach chair free!) I walked back to Maragas Beach this evening to hve dinner at the Paradise Taverna where I'd been last time I was here. But it's not the same and I was disappointed with the meal, service and view of the sunset which was the main reason I'd gone there.
I walked back to Aghia anna in the semi dark and went to the Banana bar to have one last glass of krasi (not that my upset stomach enjoyed it!) But then again, the music: That Latin American song that Sumalao often plays (and Sting sings) -- and suddenly it was like anibal ws there tlling me eerything would be okay. I almost started to cry.

One thing that I am now reminded of about solo travel is the feeling of being invisible. So feeling the presence of a family spirit was comforting to me. And I have to believe everything will be alright.

NEXT: An Island Tour