MY CARIBOO ROAD TRIP: Part One

NORTH TO THE KLONDIKE GOLD FIELDS:  HOPE AND BEYOND

For years I've been wanting to visit the old gold rush town of Barkerville in British Columbia's Cariboo district and finally this year I managed to accomplish this.  It's a long trip by bus, 10 hours from Vancouver, but the journey was well worth it, through some of the west coast's most spectacular scenery.

The first brief stop along the way was the town of Hope. (The sign itself captured my attention!) Hope is the entryway to the Fraser Canyon where the mighty Fraser and Coquihalla rivers join. The town is nestled in the mountain pass of the Cascade and Coast Mountains.

Heading north, we soon pass the famous "Hells Gate", located immediately downstream of Boston Bar in the Fraser Canyon. Here the towering rock faces of the Fraser River plunge toward each other creating rapids.  From here you can go on river rafting excursion through this narrow passage of roiling water.

This has also been a popular fishing ground for the local aboriginal communities and in the past, European settlers also congregated there to fish for salmon.  It was on this route that the gold rush miners traversed up the river to the Cariboo gold fields.

This is also the canyon area where the first explorers came paddling down the river or portaging to the Coast. The scenery is spectacular, still as wild as it was then when later men trudged north in search of gold.

North, toward the village of Cache Creek, there were the remains of forest fires that had ravaged the countryside in recent years.

Cache Creek is located at the junction of the Trans Canada Highway and Highway 97 on the Thompson Plateau, junction of the Cariboo and Thompson Valleys. There are rolling grasslands and hills covered in sagebrush and cactus with a backdrop of beautiful mountains.

Cache Creek was the halfway point for prospectors en route to the Cariboo Gold Fields. Here (above) you'll see a way-marker pointing in the directions of the many places these hopeful miners came from. Many were from California, others from England, Scotland, Ireland and other European countries.  Today travelers like myself who are following the historical gold rush trail still stop off at Cache Creek.

All along the route are pristine lakes.  The little town of Lac La Hache is renowned for excellent fishing. The lake is a popular for swimming, boating, parasailing, water skiing and camping. Even in the winter there are activities such as ice fishing, cross country skiing and skating.  I was most impressed by Lac La Hache. For many years I knew the name but this was the first time I'd visited there.

 

Next stop is the rustic village of 100 Mile (also known as "Hundred Mile House") located on a plateau where there are numerous lakes.  The area is excellent for swimming, fishing, bird watching and horse-back riding. For thousands of years the Chilcotin First Nations lived, hunted and traded here and still claim the region as their traditional territory. In the mid 1800's miners flocked to the area folling the news of gold in the Cariboo. A wagon road was built to manage the traffic that came up from Lilloet on the Fraser River north to Barkerville. At the time, this was known as Bridge Creek House and was renamed 100 Mile House because it was 100 miles from Lilloet (Mile 0). Between 1862 and 1870 there were more than 100,000 travelers through this region. Eventually a freight and stagecoach line carried people and provision to the gold fields, cattle were imported and a thriving ranching culture developed.  By the 1900's logging and forestry became the dominant economic source.  Today tourism, logging and ranching are the leading industries in the South Cariboo.

After Lac la Hache, passing through 100 Mile, there is another spectacular lake known as Dragon Lake.  At the north end of this lake is Williams Lake, a small town in the central Cariboo. They are famous for the Williams Lake Stampeded. The town is named in honour of Secwepemc chief William who was instrumental in counselling the Shuswap band from joining the Chilcotin in their uprising against the new settlers back in the 1860's during the Cariboo Gold Rush.

This entire area is so rich with history, that for a history-buff like me it was a treasure trove of stories, added to the magnificent scenery.  It was easy to imagine being one of those early settlers, the men trudging north to the gold fields, or the brave explorers who came down the river to the west coast.

The Cariboo Gold Rush attracted a rush of American prospectors to the Fraser Canyon in 1858 Many stayed on as permanent settlers. Others began to explore the rest of the province searching for new finds. It was after Billy Barker, a miner from England, struck pay-dirt north in Barkerville, that floods of men arrived from other parts of the world seeking their fortune in the gold fields around Quesnel.  The area became known as "the Cariboo", NOT "Caribou", which is an Algonquin word "xalibu" meaning "a pawer or scracher'. In BC it is regarded as a corruption of the French word "Cariboeu or Cerboeuf" meaning "reindeer" as it is a favorite haunt of that species.

After ten enjoyable hours on the Greyhound bus, by 6.30 pm that evening I arrived at the town of Quesnel where the next phase of my Cariboo adventure began.

NEXT: Part II.  Quesnel and beyond.

A PEAK EXPERIENCE

My friend Rick had won tickets for the Grouse Mountain Sky Lift so he invited me to accompany him on a day-trip. It was only the second time for me to go up the Lift and for Rick it's been many years since his last visit.  You can ride the lift for $39.95, expensive, but there's lots to see and do when you reach the top.  The gondola swings 300 meters above the treetops and travels up the mountain in only 12 minutes.  The views are fantastic, but just wait til you actually get to the top!

The first thing we did was relax with a coffee at the mountain-top cafe and enjoy the view of Vancouver far below.  It was a clear enough day you could see all the way to Vancouver Island and past Point Roberts in the States.

Our first stop was at the Logger's Show.  They perform at intervals during the day and it's well-worth taking in the brave and often goofy antics of the loggers,  illustrating what old-time lumber-jacks did in the woods.

This unexpected character almost gave us a heart-attack with his antics high atop the pole.  Along with all the other performances by the two lumber-jacks who perform their various stunts such as axe-throwing, sawing contests and climbing,  it was an excellent show!

There's lots of things to do on the mountain including zip-lines, para sailing and the various shows including ecological lectures etc.  Of course, in winter time this mountain is a popular skiing resort for locals.  And hikers love climbing the famous Grouse Grind Trail.

Para sailing

Rick and I walking around to see the two orphaned grizzlies, Grinder and Coola, who live in a natural habitat enclosure.  A ranger gives a talk about the bears during the day.  Grinder was found wandering alone on a logging trail, half starved, at Invermere,  while Coola was the only survivor of a car crash near Bella Coola that killed his mother and brother cubs.  They've been cared for on the mountain for several years and are now pretty well full grown bears who wander contentedly in their forest home and bathe in the pools.

We were just in time to take in the Birds in Motion show next.  These are birds of prey who perform and fly about while the trainer gives you the story about each bird.  The first was a Harris Falcon from the desert of South America. He was the only bird not found locally.  The next was a red-tailed hawk, then a great horned owl (I loved this guy!), a turkey vulture and a bald eagle. 

Turkey Vulture

Bald Eagle

One of the newer features on the Peak is the Eye of the Wind, the worlds first and only wind turbine.  You can take a glass elevator to the top of the tower to get another panorama view.  It costs $19.95 to go up in the glass viewer.  You can reach the wind turbine by gondola, but we attempted to walk. It's a long, steep climb up there.  I took it slow and easy with a few stops to catch my breath.  Rick went on ahead, but I just went as far as it took to get a good view of the wind turbine and that satisfied me.  At least the walk down was easy!

Eye of the Wind

If you can afford to go, I highly recommend a visit to the Peak for a day's outing. It's great fun for the whole family and of course it's a major tourist attraction too.  Try to go on a clear day so you can enjoy the magnificent views.  Rick suggested we should have gone a bit later in the day to catch the late-afternoon sun and early sunset.  Maybe we'll do that another time!

View from the Peak

FRESH MOUNTAIN AIR, FAMILY, AND A WEEKEND OF FOND MEMORIES AT SUN PEAKS RESORT

SUN PEAKS VILLAGE

I'm not a skier or a snow boarder but I love them mountains, and snow and other winter sports.  So when I was invited to spend several days at the Sun Peaks Resort with my daughter, her partner, and my grandson along with other guests, I was so thrilled and excited!

First of all, my daughter, Alex, got me a plane ticket from Vancouver to Kamloops which saves hours of bus riding.  It was the first time I've ever flown that short distance (just under an hour) from Vancouver to the Interior of BC town of Kamloops.  So that in itself was a worth-while adventure.  Next, was my good fortune to have landed an 'assignment' from the Planet Eye editor to write a feature for www.istopover.com about the Resort.  And, with the generous help of Sun Peaks Tourism their rep, Melanie, arranged my pickup by shuttle from the airport to the resort where I was dropped off right at the door of the chalet my family had rented for the week. 

The chalet was huge with various separate units which included kitchen facilities, fireplaces etc.  There was a large group already there when I arrived on the Saturday evening, including my grandson Mike who had flown in from California with his girlfriend Ali.  It was my daughter's partner Jim's birthday that weekend so the party had already begun setting a jolly, friendly mood.

Alex, Ali and Jim get ready for the slopes.

While the family members set off for their day of skiing or 'boarding, I went off on my own to explore the Village and later, thanks to the Sun Peaks Tourism, I took the bus to the road that led to the Mountain Man Adventures where it had been arranged for me to go dog-sled riding.  This in itself was one of my biggest adventure thrills and turned out to be one of my most memorable winter-time experiences. (See my next blog about Dog Sled Riding). 

Sun Peaks Resort is a real family affair.  You don't have to be a skier or snowboarder to enjoy yourself there.  There's fun for everyone from the tiny tots to the elders.  There are 122 runs for skiers and 'boarders of all skills as well as cross-country ski trails, snow-shoeing and snowmobile areas.  There's a skating rink and toboggan runs closer to the Village too.  They even have a day-care where you can leave the little ones while you go off to the mountain and the children are provided ski lessons.

The Resort is located a 45 minute scenic drive from Kamloops, nestled at the foot of three mountains.  The most distinguished resident is former Canadian Olympic ski champion and member of the Canadian Senate, Nancy Green Raine.  She's actively invovled in the community and you can enjoy a complimentary ski with her or sit in on a fireside chat at the Hearthstone lodge on Sunday evenings.  Her husband, Al Raine, is the mayor of Sun Peaks.

I wasn't at a loss for things to do, from exploring the Village boutiques,  dining at the various bars and restaurants,  taking a long quiet walk out to the skating rink (would have gone skating but it was closed til evening!).  I opted on a sleigh ride but it turned out I was the only passenger.  I snuggled up on the big sleigh pulled by a team of sturdy Clydesdale's named Zeus and Thor who took me on a jingle-bell ride around the resort and out into the surrounding countryside.

There's something about spending a few days enjoying the crisp mountain air as you watch the sparkling snow fall over the tranquil village, sitting round the fire laughing over the antics of the birthday-boy while w sipped tall glasses of iced paralyzers, that made for an extra special family weekend.



TOURING CANADA'S HISTORY: THREE VALLEY GAP, B.C.

Just a few miles east of Craigellachie, B.C. where the last spike of the transcontinental Canadian Pacific Railway was driven in 1885, we round the curve of the Trans-Canada Highway and before us is an impressive 200-room chateau overlooking the shimmering water of Three Valley Lake.

Once this was only a marsh until 1956 when Gordon Bell bought the property and built a small motel and restaurant. Over the years the Bell family has developed this remarkable resort and chateau which now includes a chunk of B.C.’s history.

Gold rush mystique and railway history had always intrigued Gordon Bell. When he was just 16, working with a pick and shovel at a site 60 miles north of Revelstoke, he discovered the remains of a gold-rush town dating from 1862. Some of the equipment had been left behind when the town was abandoned in the early 1900’s. So Mr. Bell, decided to preserve the remains of the historic old town and began to collect artifacts and reconstruct buildings which are now on display at the Ghost Town, part of the Three Valley Gap Chateau complex.

Located 12 miles west of Revelstoke, the Chateau is nestled in the beautiful Monashee Mountains. Besides the Ghost Town, the resort offers many other activities for guests and visitors. Surrounded by pleasant gardens, there is a sandy beach for swimmers and water sports on the lake. You can also take a helicopter tour of the area. Nearby Revelstoke, a quiet picturesque town, is the gateway to the Rockies and home of two national parks, Mt. Revelstoke and Glacier National Parks, where you can hike and ski. Revelstoke is also rich in history and many of the buildings here are restored to their original Victorian era splendor. Five km. north of Revelstoke, the Revelstoke Dam offers self-guided tours. The lakes around the area provide opportunities for boating and fishing. Or you can take a helicopter tour over the mountains and around the Valley

The Three Valley Gap Heritage Ghost Town has guided tours daily from mid-April to mid-October. It is built near the site of the original town of Three Valley, which flourished in the 1880’s. The Gold Wheel Saloon features an authentic 19th century bar. There’s also a historic three-story Hotel Bellevue originally from Sicamous, plus many other buildings such as a general store, school, trappers cabin and jail. It’s not hard to imagine what it must have been like to live in that era as you stroll the streets and peek into the shops.

The Railway Roundhouse where old railway memorabilia is stored is Canada’s largest display of railcars and equipment. I was excited to step onto a coach like the one my family traveled in across Canada to B.C. in the 1940’s. And what a thrill to visit the exclusive rail car once occupied by our Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau when he traveled across Canada by train in 1972. I stood on the back deck of the railcar exactly where he stood giving the famous Salmon Arm Salute to protesters that greeted him as he passed through that community. This is the same car that carried Queen Elizabeth II on her royal visit across the country in the 1970’s.

Among the collection of antique automobiles I found an old Model T Ford just like the one my mother used to drive when we lived on the prairies. And in the museum there were old church organs like the ones that provided music in the churches I used to attend as a child when my father was a Prairie minister.

A visit to the Ghost Town at Three Valley Gap is sure to evoke many memories as well as provide an insight into the past with it’s many displays of Canadian history.

The Chateau itself is a pleasant retreat where you can relax and enjoy spectacular scenery and the fresh mountain air.

Three Valley Lake Chateau
Tel.: 1-250--837-2109
Fax: 1-250-837-5220
Toll Free: 1-888-667-2109
www.3valley.com
Open mid-April through mid-October.
(Sorry, no pets allowed on the property)

Three Valley Gap Heritage Ghost Town
www.3valleygapheritageghosttown.com

Helicopter Sightseeing
www.glacierhelicopters.ca

Transportation links from Vancouver:

Air: Air service is offered from Vancouver to Kelowna with links to Kamloops (196 km from 3 Valley Gap) and Calgary.
Bus: Greyhound buses serve Revelstoke from Vancouver and the Okanagan and Calgary on a frequent daily basis. Arrangements can be made for getting off the bus at Three Valley Gap.
Rental Cars: Available from Revelstoke.