PLANNING NEW ADVENTURES

Every time I go to Greece I try to visit some sites that I have never been to before.  There are so  many choices, so many islands, archaeological sites, interesting towns and beautiful beaches!  The choices are so many it makes it tricky trying to make plans that will not be complicated and too expensive -- and also fit in with the length of time I'll be in the country.

This year I have made a 'tentative' plan -- one that should work fine, making sure ferry and bus connections are suitable. 

NAXOS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From NAXOS island I plan to take the ferry to HERAKLION, CRETE.  I visited there last trip and spent several days sight-seeing and exploring the archaeological site of Minoan KNOSSOS.

HERAKLION

 

 

This time, I'll stay a day or two in Heraklion  and visit the Minoan site of KNOSSOS again and then take the bus to ELOUNDA.

KNOSSOS

ELOUDIA

From Eloudi I can get a boat for a day trip to the former leper's island, SPINALONGA. This was once a Venetian stronghold during the Turkish invasion and eventually became a leper colony, occupied until 1957.

SPINALONGA

From Elounda  I also want to visit another Minoan site at GOURNIA. It's one of the most completely preserved Minoan towns,  perhaps not quite as impressive as the palace site of KNOSSOS, but still an important archaeological site showing the lives of ordinary people  3500 years ago.

GOURNIA

Hopefully there will be a bus from Elounda but if not I can get there from Agios Nikolaos which isn't too far away. I've always been fascinated by the MINOANS and my friend and mentor, Dr Jack Dempsey, (from US but now living near Heraklion) will hopefully give me some good info and tips about this site.

After this little jaunt I'll go back to Heraklion and from there get the ferry over to the island of MILOS.
this is a fascinating little volcanic island with chalk-white rock formations, hot springs and good beaches.  I'm hoping to spend a few days there exploring before heading back to Athens.

MILOS

 

 

 

 

VOLCANIC CLIFFS OF MILOS,

A RAINY DAY WALK IN THE COTSWOLDS

On an overcast day late August in London, I joined a London's Walks touring group to spend the morning and afternoon walking in the Cotswolds.  We met our friendly host/guide Richard at Paddington Station at 9.30 then boarded the train for a pleasant journey to Oxford where we transferred onto a touring coach to drive through the quaint towns of the Cotswolds, some dating from the 1400 - 1700s.

The Cotswolds is an area in south central England roughly 25 miles (40km) across and 90 miles (145 km) long stretching from the south-west just south of Stratford-on-Ave, south to Bath. The name, "Cotswolds" is attributed to mean "sheep enclosure in rolling hillsides" (wold meaning "hill"). However this is contested and usually the name is accepted to be derived from Codesuualt, or variations such as "Cod's-wold" which means "high open land"

There are remains of Bronze and Iran Age forts in the area and later the Romans built villas there. During the Middle Ages the Cotswolds became prosperous from the wool trade and the area is still populated with sheep farms. Today many of the Cotswolds homes and estates are occupied by wealthy Londoners or retirees.

The home of Graham Greene, author

We drove through many of the lovely towns and at some we stopped to walk around. At Chipping Camden when we stopped for lunch it took me ages to find a dining place that wasn't full of people and by the time I did, I only had ten minutes left to down a bowl of soup and some yam friends. Then it was back to the coach until we were let off again at Lower Slaughter. From there we walked in the misty rain across the fields to Upper Slaughter.All along the way our friendly, informative guide, Richard, told us stories and interesting anecdotes.

The entire day, in spite of the rain, was pleasant though by the time I'd walked the six miles around and to villages, my feet were soaked and sore. It was worth the effort though and I'd recommend this walk to anyone who likes the countryside.

EXPLORING NEW TERRITORY: Part 1 TORREVIEJA, SPAIN

I have visited Spain previously. On one of my first trips to Europe back in the '70's my friend Rosalie and I took our daughters with us on a camping adventure to Sitges with a day stop-over in Barcelona.  Then, during the '80's when I was living in Greece, I met up with Rosalie and her friends in Spain and we went to Pamplona for the Running of the Bulls.  On that trip we also spent a day in Barcelona exploring the Gaudi exhibits and Pablo Picasso museum.  I've always wanted to go back and see more of the country. So this year, on my way to Greece, I am going to visit Spain again.

I'm flying from Cardiff to Alicante, a seaside resort city on the Cosa Brava.  My friend Inka, also a travel writer, will meet me there and we will go to her home in Torrevieja. Inka says her apartment opens up right onto the beach! 

 Torrevieja is a seaside city on the Costa Brave about 30 miles from Alicante.  It was originally a salt-mining and fishing village locate between the sea and two large salt lakes.  The name "Torrevieja" means "Old Tower" as until 1802 it existed as only a guard tower and a few laborer's cottages. In 1803 King Charles IV ordered that the Royal Salt Works be moved to Torrevieja and this began the history of the town. It now has a population of about 104,000.  Torrevieja is still a salt exporter and you can visit the Museum of Sea and Salt.  It's popular with tourists from northern Europe who live there including a lot of Brits.

Inka promises to take me on a number of excursions. These will include a visit to a pirate's island. There is lots to see and do in the area and I'll try to squeeze as many adventures as possible into the 4 days I'll be there. Another travel writing friend, Darlene Foster, from Vancouver, lives nearby so I'll get chance to visit with her as well. 

www.torrevieja.com

TRIP PLANS 2015: LONDON, THE COTSWOLDS and CAERPHILLY WALES

Houses of Parliament by the Thames

Richard the Lionhearted

'm just starting to plan my travels for 2015, leaving here August 28 with my first stop being LONDON.

I've been there so many times it's almost like returning 'home'. But each time I go I love to see new things (and there's lots to see in London!)  This time I think I'll visit the Tower of London as I haven't been for some years. And of course I'll browse around all the old familiar haunts.  I'll be staying at the Indian Y as usual (breakfast and dinner included) and it's right in the Bloomsbury area with a lot of historical houses including the one where Virginia Wolf lived which is right across the park from the Y. 

Queen Victoria monument

The London Eye

I always go on the London Walks and this time I notice there is one called "The Cotswold Walk" which really interests me as I haven't been to the Cotswolds for years either.  You meet a the Paddington train station and go from there for the day. These walks are always so much fun and this one sounds outstanding.

THE COTSWOLDS is an area in S. central England

roughly 25 mi (40K) across and 90 miles (145 Km) long just south of Stratford-on-Avon to just south of Bath. The name means "sheep enclosure in rolling hillsides" ("wold" meaning 'hills')  The name is derived from the 12th century "Codesuualt" or "Cod's-wold" - Cod's is high open land (old English) or it could come from Brittonic name "Cuda"  - a mother goddess in Celtic myth who was thoughtot reside int hat area.  Cotswolds is famous for its honey-colored limestone villages.  http://coswolds.com  

 Caerphilly Castle

After that, I'll be heading to WALES to visit my cousins in CAERPHILLY (where my dad was from). I love going there and every time I do I visit 'my castle', the Caerphilly Castle, one of the most magnificent in the UK.  I'll only be in Caerphilly for a couple of days before heading to Cardiff to catch a flight to Alicante, Spain where my friend Inka will meet me to take me to her home town farther along the south coast to Torrevieja.  

Me, in front of my castle.

NEXT STOP: SPAIN 

THERMOPYLAE: VISITING A FAMOUS BATTLE SITE

The Battle of Thermopylae:  This famous battle was fought in 490 BC between an alliance of the Greek city states, led by King Leonidas of Sparta, and the Persians, led by Xerxes 1.  The battle took place over three days.

Battle site

The Greek force of approximately 7,000 men marched north to block the pass of Themopylae, which would simultaneously block the Persian navy at the Straits of Artemisium. According to some sources the Persian army was said to have numbered over one million but was likely much smaller (perhaps 1000,000 and 150,000).  The Greeks arrived at the pass some time in late August or early September and managed to hold off the Persians for seven days before the rear-guard was annihilated. During two full days of battle, a small force of Spartans lead by Leonidas blocked the road through the pass so the Persians could not enter. After the second day they were betrayed by a local resident named Ephialtes, who showed the Persians how to access the pass by a different route thereby cutting off and trapping the Greeks. Brave Leonidas, knowing that they were outflanked, sent back the bulk of the Greek army and stayed, with his 300 Spartans, 700 Thespiasn, and 400 Thebans to defend the pass. Most them, including the 300 Spartans, were killed.

 map of battle

The Pass 

Because our trip to the islands had been hindered by bad weather, after our bus tour group left the spa resort at Kamena Vourla, we were treated to a side-trip Thermopylae, known for its hot springs.

Thermopylae, known for its hot springs. It was also called the "Hot Gates" 

The day we were there

 We stopped  view the monument in honour of Leonidas and his brave Spartans, and a visit to the small museum where you can view videos explaining the whole battle.

Statue honouring Leonidas and the Spartans

Thermopylae Museum

There was also an amazing exhibit of helmets from bronze age to Classical and Hellenic eras.  The artist who made them was there to explain each one.  There were also interesting murals of battle scenes and other artifacts on view.

Museum exhibits and artwork

Spartan helmet

One of my favorite novels is 'GATES OF FIRE" by Steven Pressfield, who has been very supportive of me and my writing of Shadow of the Lion.  This book tells about the famous battle of Thermopylae and the life of the Spartans. I've also had the privilege of visiting Sparta on a couple of occasions. Although there are few ruins left it is interesting to see the location of their city. There is also a fine statue honouring Leonidas.

I was quite thrilled to get the chance to visit this new museum and if you are interested in this period of Greek history, I recommend you make the journey.  Up in the entrance to the pass there is also a monument to the 300 Spartans which I have seen on occasions when I took the bus from Northern Greece to the south.
(* note: some of these photos are from internet sources.)

ENGLAND 2014: A FEW DAYS IN LONDON

I always love visiting London. When I first arrived there Sept 1, I stayed at my favorite place, the Indian YMCA, a centrally located, reasonably priced hostel-type hotel near Warren Station.  I always enjoy browsing the area. Right across the square is the former home of Virginia Woolf and various other members of the Bloomsbury Group of writers also lived in that area.  Just down the street is the Fitzroy Tavern where writes such as Dylan Thomas hung out while in London. Naturally, I like to stop in there just for the writerly atmosphere.

 

Dylan Thomas and Others

George Orwell

The well-stocked bar

 

The Fitzroy Tavern, London

My main purpose for spending time in London on this trip was to attend the Historical Novel Writer's Conference (Sept 5,6). So after my 3 days visit in Wales, I returned to London and took up residence in a student dorm at the International House in Waterloo,  on London's south side (across the river). It was conveniently located near a tube station in order for me to reach the conference which was at the Marlybone Campus of the University of Westminster.

 

 



 

 Statue of Sherlock Holmes across from the University

 

I went to the meet-and-greet and registration of the first day (Sept 5) and enjoy myself meeting lots of other historical writers. My biggest thrill that day was running into renown writer Margaret George, whose work I admire. I had spoken to her at the Surrey International Writer's Conference two years ago when I attended one of her workshops, and I'd explained my concern over the length of SHADOW OF THE LION.  She had told me "Just don't worry about the length. Keep on writing!" Imagine her surprise (and delight) when I told her that I'd listened to her and now I had a two-book contract, with volume one already published. 

That evening we went for a dinner at a nearby restaurant for the Hardy's Historical supper  and enjoy some good food, wine and camaraderie with a group of the writers.

The next day I attended the all-day sessions of various workshops. And I made sure I went to one that Margaret George was participating in.  I also enjoy hearing from  the keynote speakers and a couple of other presenters who were successful historical fiction writers.  I met one of the writers from Oxford who is a good friend of Robin Lane Fox whose book about Alexander the Great I referred to for some of my research for SHADOW.

My last day in London I chose to go on a London Walk. I love these walks and this time decided on the Dickens & Shakespeare Walk.  The American professor who was our guide proved to be entertaining as well as informative. 



We strolled around all the parts of town where Dickens was inspired to write several of his books such as "Pickwick Papers" and "Great Expectation."

 

We also visited the district near the Jewish Quarter where Shakespeare lived with a Huguenot family and penned many of his famous dramas.  There is a memorial to him and a plaque to his two friends who 'rescued' Shakespeare's folios after his death and saw that they were published. Otherwise we might not have had the privilege to enjoy his work.

 

Monument to William Shakespeare

 

Guildhall

 



Smithfields Market

 



We also toured the noted areas of that time, such as the Guildhall (from the 1400s) the Smithfieds Market that had signs depicting the cruel punishments meted out of people those days, the place nearby where William Wallace (Braveheart) was slaughtered as well a number of other fascinating old London sites.

After the walk, which took about 2 hours (or longer) I went to see St. Paul's Cathedral. By that time I was tired from the walking and headed back to the Indian Y where I had chosen to stay for my last night in London.  The next day, I headed out to Heathrow for my flight to Greece. 

NEXT: GREECE: My first stop: THESSALONIKI.