AROUND ATHENS

Anna Britt and I at the To Kati Allo Taverna

JUNE 18/19, 2009

I love hanging out in Athens with my friend Anna Britt. She had come all the way from Norway to help me celebrate my birthday and when I went off to the islands with my sister and niece, she was undecided about where to go. She usually goes to Santorini but I wasn't sure. So when we ended up unexpectedly on Santorini I was thinking about her, and keeping watch in case we ran into her. She always stays at a 'monastery' there and for some reason I didn't stop to think it would be a Catholic monastary.

We were on the ferry preparing to return to Athens from Santorini, just stowing our luggage when I heard this familiar voice say "What are you doing here?" It was Anna Britt. She had been in Santorini all that time and in fact was staying only a few blocks from our hotel. What a co-incidence that we met up on the ferry!

So when we got back into town, after Jean and Debra had left for Canada, AB and I set off on some adventures of our own. We always like cruising around town, checking out various shops and tavernas...always looking for new places to hang out in preparations for our next visit. The To Kati Allo Taverna in Magkrianni is a sort of 'base camp' for all of us, but we also like venturing farther afield to the Plaka and Monastiraki areas.

Somehow I never get tired of wandering those same old streets, looking in the shops, retracing my steps from all the years I've been going to Greece since 1979, and all the years I lived there from 1983 - 1987. It's all so familiar to me. I could walk around blindfolded.

That evening we went and sat at a sidewalk taverna on Makgrianni st. and watched the hologram show that is projected on the wall of the new Acropolis Museum each night. I tried taking photos of it but they didn't turn out. It's quite a show and a great way to spend the evening being entertained.

On the weekend I'm going to stay with Dinaz and Andreas and we are going to Euboeia for the day, a trip I am very much looking forward to. I haven't been back to Lala for 4 years, not since my shepherd, Mitso, died. So it will definitely be a sentimental journey.

Here are some scenes from the Monastiraki district. (Above) nut sell- sellers.
Below, a busy street of tavernas where you can buy delicious souvlakia for real cheap!

SPECTACULAR SANTORINI

Fira, Santorini, perched on the edge of the caldera

SANTORINI: June 13 - 16, 2009

Without a doubt, Santorini has to be the most dramatic of all the Greek islands. The story of the volcanic explosion that took place there some time between 2000 and 1600 BC is like something out of science fiction. It is said it was the most powerful volcanic eruption recorded next to Krakatoa. It blew apart the island, leaving just fragments around the rim of the still smouldering caldera in the centre of the bay. The eruption and tsunamis it created played a major role in the destruction of the Minoan empire in Crete (and that's where Theseus was fleeing from when he abandoned the Cretan princess Ariadne on Naxos). Reports in the Bible tell of the ash falling over Egypt. All that is left of that mighty empire are a few fragmented ruins, Akrotiri and ancient Thira high up on a hillside. At Akrotiri they discovered some of the brilliant wall paintings the Minoans were noted for. Its a bit like Pompeii although on a small scale but I don't believe they discovered bodies. In fact, I wonder where everyone went? Did they heed the omens and escape before their island was blown to smithereens?

View of the caldera (crater)

The main town is Fira and from the edge of the cliffside you get magnificent views of the caldera and the surrounding islands that were once part of the whole island of Thira. It is also the place where you go in the evening to watch the fantastic sunsets. There are lots of tavernas and wine bars along the edge of the caldera where you can enjoy an evening meal or a drink while you see the splendid sunset show accompanied by suitable music. A very dramatic experience indeed!

Red Beach

We set off on another 'tour' which didn't turn out so well. The so-called guide who drove the mini van didn't speak English and wouldn't listen to our instructions. We were supposed to be able to choose where we wanted to go. He insisted on ignoring us and led us on a merry chase that would have cost us a bundle ($50 an hour for this rip-off 'tour) but we made such a fuss in the end we only had to pay $50 for 1 hour. That was the trip to the Boutari winery where we had a very good wine tasting experience with an excellent wine steward. Other than that, we wanted to visit Akrotiri and found it was closed. (Learned later that everyone in Greece knew it was closed and had been for some time, due to a tragic accident at the site). So the 'guide' then insisted on driving us to Ancient Thira where we had been already told the road was closed. In spite of our protests he drove up the winding narrow road where the wind was blowing so hard it threatened to blow the van off the road. We protested loudly and insisted this lunatic take us back to our hotel but he kept on driving around the island and finally we got back to the hotel.

The next day we set off by bus (we should have done this all along. Very cheap!) and headed for Akrotiri again. That's when we found out about the closure. So we hiked along the beach and the very rocky edge of a cliff and climbed down a pathway with red stones so sharp you could cut yourself if you fell, to one of the famous volcanic beaches of Santorini, Red Beach. The beach really is red, because all the stones and sand are from the volcano's eruption.

One thing my sister and niece enjoyed on Santorini was the shopping. It's a pricey and very touristic island and there's a lot of trendy shops as well as the usual souveniers. So I spent a lot of time hanging around waiting for them to make their purchases.

Every night we went to the cliff side coffee bars and found a good place to sit to watch the sunset. This is the main feature of the island and everyone flocks to the edge to watch.
Every night it's a bit more spectacular than the last. And somehow you never get tired of snapping photos of it.

Santorini Sunset

Finally our island hopping holiday was over. It was time to return to Athens as Jean and Debra had to catch a flight the next day back home. I still had six days left to visit with my friends and see a few more sights.

MERRY MYKONOS

JUNE 8 & 9, 2009 MYKONOS

The word "merry" being another word for "gay" seems appropriate for this fun-filled island which happens to be the gay capital of the Mediterranean, a title it's held for quite a few years. I've found though, that if you visit there before the height of the summer season you'll not be shocked or bothered by the antic of the groups of partying gays who descend on Mykonos each year. Believe me, I've heard the stories, straight from the mouths of friends who have worked there in tourism. But the town folk put up with it, because it's money. However, each time I've been to Mykonos, (this was the fourth time) I've always gone there before mid June and there has never been anything 'shocking
or lewd happening there. In fact, in spite of it's crowded narrow streets and the fact that next to Santorini it's the most expensive Greek island and the most touristic, it's quite a pleasant little island. Definitely the 'post card Greece', so unlike the little mountain villages I so love.

Mykonos is one of the Cycladic islands. The town of Mykonos, the island's main port, is build with a whorl of narrow streets. It's tricky to find your way around the warren of allyways but you'll never get really 'lost'. The town is not very big. The population is around 7,000 but when the cruise ships hit town and the ferries unload their hordes of tourists, you'd think the little island might sink.

The last two times I've been to Mykonos I chose a small hotel just on the outskirts, only about a 15 minute walk into town, with beach access. (Mykonos Beach: see top picture) I recommend this comfortable little hotel with it's lovely view and pleasant ambience. Just down the road is a wonderful beach taverna "Joanna's Nikos Place". Joanna, the proprietor is a British woman who has lived on the island for many years. If you eat or buy a drink at her taverna you can use the beach chairs. The beach there is small but sandy and reasonably uncrowded.

Of course there's a lot to do in this tiny town, especially if you like shopping like my sister and neice do. I love browsing the trendy shops too, and bought myself some gorgeous jewelry with money my Athens friends had given me for my birthday.

We wandered all around taking photos. Every corner you take is a photo op. There's the famous windmills and the sugar-cube houses, and the many churches with their red or blue domes, especially the famous and much photographed Panagia Paraportiani, which is actully 3 churches in one and looks like it's covered with white icing.

There's lots of good restaurants and taverns and yes, gay bars too. One favorite place to go is Little Venice which is right on the water (see photo above). It may be one of the most romantic spots in Mykonos. Especially if you go at sunset. Although not as spectacular as the Santorini sunsets, the ones you see on Mykonos run a close second. People cluster around the shoreline waiting for the right photo moment. The night we were there, a cruise ship was anchored off-shore.

We stayed on Mykonos for two days, then caught the ferry on to Naxos.

LEARNING ABOUT THE ARCHAEOLOGY IN ATHENS

THEATRE OF DIONYSOS

JUNE 7/09 The day after my birthday some of the party guests met to tour around the archaeological sites of Athens. This happened to be a day that I somehow forgot my camera so the photos shown here are from the last birthday party two years ago. We did the same things, though, and saw all the identical sites.

The usual program is to go first to the Theatre of Dionysos. It's at the foot of the Acropolis south side, and when you buy a ticket it covers all the sites around the Acropolis. Lucky us! That day it was all free! When we go to the theatre we sit on the marble seats where the people used to watch the dramas and Anna Britt gives her lecture about the ancient Greek theatre. (She is writing her doctorate on Aristophanes). She's not supposed to do this as only credited guides can give lectures on the sites, but we're very discreet and manage it. It really is interesting, espcially to those who know nothing about the ancient theatres and how the dramas were performed. This theatre was reconstructed in the 4th century BC. It had a seating capacity of 17,000 spread over 64 tiers of seats (only 20 survive).

THEATRE OF HEROD ATTICUS

This enormous theatre also on the flank of the Acropolis, was built in AD 161 by a wealthy Roman who dedicated it to his wife. This theatre is still used for theatre, music and dance performances. It's quite a thrill to attend one.

THE CARYATIDS

Of course, the Acropolis and all it's magnificent temples, especially the Parthenon, is the most significant site in Athens. When I lived there, I used to go up at least once a week. Now, even though I've seen it hundreds of times, I still visit and I'm still in awe.

The Parthenon, which means "Virgin's apartment" as it housed a splendid statue of Athena, goddess of the city, was built in 400 BC, the largest Doric temple in Greece. It's built entirely of Pentelic marble. Over the years the marble was eroding so in the past years a lot of restoration work has been done and now the Parthenon is gleaming like new again (well, almost like new! There are still pieces missing from the famous pediment that the Greeks are trying to get back from the British Museum.) And unfortunately the building suffered serious damage back in the days when the Turks were storing munitions there and it blew up.

With the new Acropolis museum open now, all the treasures and statues that were in the museum up on the Acropolis have now been moved into their splendid new home. (More about the new museum in another post). For now, the reconstructing continues. This time the scaffolding was around the little Temple of Athena Nike. Finally the beautiful Caryatids are showing themselves off without scaffolding hiding their lovely forms. These are copies of the originals which are in the museum because the others were damaged by weather and pollution or taken away to other places by treasure seekers. (I think one of them is in Paris). Still, you get the idea of how they looked, holding up the roof of the Erectheion which was one of the Acropolis most sacred sites. When you view the holograms on the east wall of the new museum at night, you will see the Caryatids who will wink and smile at you, then shake their heads. You'll also be able to get a good view of their elaborate hair-dos.

THE TEMPLE OF HEPHAESTION
ANCIENT AGORA

Once we've taken our time looking at all the beautiful temples on the Acropolis, we make our way down the Sacred Way into the ancient agora. This was Athen's meeting place in ancient times, where administrative, commercial and political life was the focal point as well as social activity. To really appreciate the agora I think you need to educate yourself a little about the life in ancient Athens. There's a lot of government buildings in the agora besides the great Odeon that was from Roman times. You can find the little shop ruins where the shoemaker lived who was a friend of Socrates. It is said Socrates used to hang out with him there. You can also find the prison where Socrates was held before given the hemlock.

The site was first developed in the 6th century BC but when the Persians raided the city in 480 BC they destroyed it and a new agora was built in its place, flourishing by Pericles' time and continuing to do business until AD 267 when it was destroyed by more invaders. The Turks build a few residential quarters on the site that were later demolished.

The Temple of Hephaestion is the main monument in the Agora as well as the Stoa of Attalos which is a reconstruction and contains a small museum. The beautiful Temple was on the western edge of the agora that was surrounded by foundries and metalwork shops so it was dedicated to Hephaestus, god of the forge. It's the best preserved Doric temple in Greece, built in 449 BC by Ictinus, one of the architects of the Parthenon.

There's lots more to see around the agora, and you can wander there for hours. It was a hot, hot day though, so we headed over to Plaka to find a shaded taverna where we could eat lunch. We usually go to the one right beside the agora where my old friend Aris works. I've known him since my first trip to Greece in 1989 and he is always very happy to see me.

This was the end of our week in Athens. Tomorrow we'll head for the Islands. Mykonos will be our first stop.

A LOVELY DAY ON HYDRA

HYDRA'S DONKEY TRANSPORT

JUNE 3, 2009. MY BIRTHDAY!
Today was my birthday, although the big party isn't until the weekend. So to celebrate it, we took a day trip on the Fast Cat (catamaran) to the lovely island of Hydra (pronounced EE-dra)
One of the nicest things about this island is the lack of motor vehicles. Donkeys are the main mode of transportation and they carry everything from riders and luggage to merchandise and lumber supplies. Hard working little creatures!

The gracious old houses of Hydra are stacked up the side of a bluff overlooking the harbour. It was a popular island for film makers back in the '50's and later the home of noted poet/musician Leonard Cohen. During the '70's this attracted all sorts of his followers to the island. I made my first visit there in 1979 on my first trip to Greece. Like Aegina, another small island off the Attic coast, it's a good place to go for day trips. Several boats a day go from the port of Pireaus. It's fastest to take the Flying Dolphin or Fast Cat which gets you there in just over an hour.

TYPICAL STREET SCENE

It's fun to explore the narrow little back-street of Hydra town. You can escape the crowds of tourists that congregate around the port itself where there's lots of shops and seaside tavernas where you can loll away the afternoon.

There is a paved path around the edge of the coastline that eventually reaches a small beach. And along the way there are tavernas overlooking the sea where you can swim from the shore or the floats. It's steep and rocky though, so not good for non-swimmers.

Little Hydra was one of those islands that weren't invaded by the Turks. Many people from the Peloponnese settled here and by the 19th century the island was an important maritime power.
The Hydriots made a fortune by running the British blockde of French ports during the Napoleonic Wars. Wealthy shipping merchants built most of the town's grand old mansions. Hydra contributed 130 ships to the Greeks during the War of Independence.

HYDRA TOWN