HERE WE GO AGAIN! OFF TO GREECE FOR THREE WEEKS

This year's vacation is much shorter than usual. That is because of a very stressful last year and an eventual move to a new quieter, cleaner and friendlier home. A lot of expense involved which ate up some of my travel funds, so three weeks will have to make do.

As it turns out, it will be mainly a writing trip with three readings of my novels lined up in Athens at the Canadian Institute, Athens Centre and readings to two classes at the American Community School.  I have read for these venues before and really look forward to returning.

 My two-volume novel SHADOW OF THE LION 

Reading at the ACC in 2015

My first stop after arriving in Athens on September 22 will be NAXOS where I plan to spend three days lounging on my favorite beach at my favorite campsite, Maragas Camping.

 The bed-tents at Maragas Camping 

 Maragas Beach

 Lounging on a beach chair.

 Beach Tarverna, Plaka Beach

the walkway across to the Portada at Naxos port.

Next I'm going to Crete. I intended to go last year and had to cancel my plans. This time I'm going for three days to visit Knossos archaeological site and a few historic locations around Iraklion. I will also be visiting with my American professor writer/mentor friend Jack Dempsey who writes about the Minoans.

 Iraklion harbor

A visit to the grave of writer Nikos Kazanzakis.

KNOSSOS

MINOAN WALL FRESCOES.

After my visit to Crete I will return to Athens and later go to Salamina to visit my friend. Whenever I'm there we have many adventures seeking out archaeological sites that many people don't know about.  We've been to the site where they were looking for a monument to Ajax, hero of the Troy Wars; Ajax's acropolis, the Cave of Euripides and several other sites.  I wonder what exciting finds we'll see this year!

The final week in Greece will be exciting because I've been offered a free two-day stay GLAMPING in a Yurt, near Kalamata in exchange for writing a story about it.  So look at this blog space in a few weeks and you'll see what it's like to go glamor-camping in a yurt!

EXPLORING THESSALONIKI: PART ONE: The Literary Part

Before I left for Greece I was invited by poet friend Manolis Aligizakis to attend his book launch in Thessaloniki. As I was planning to go up north anyway to revisit Macedonia since my book was published, I decided to make a point of going for this event.

I had only just arrived in Athens when I got the train up north for a few days stay in this beautiful northern city, once known as "The Paris of the North". The hotel I'd booked was conveniently located on the main street and not too distant from where Manolis' presentation would be held at the Poeta Cafe.

 

Manolis Aligizakis reading from his new poetry book

It was a pleasant evening and the poetry presentation was held out-doors under the trees in the plateia. There was a nice crowd to enjoy the poetry and music supplied by a talented young man who played the accordian.

The next day I set off to visit the Society of Macedonian Studies who are given credit in my novel as they were helpful with my research when I began writing SHADOW OF THE LION back in 1993.
One of the beautiful things about Thessaloniki  is the long walk along the sea-front.  To get there I walked through a long plateia with palm trees and greenery, lined with shops and cafes. 

All along the seafront are gorgeous old neo-classical buildings, many tavernas and cafes and bustling crowds of young people -- mainly students from the University of Aristotle. 
In fact, at the end of the Square, which is called Aristotle's Square, is a bronze statue of the famous philosopher who was once the teacher of Alexander the Great.

 

Aristotle

 

Aristotle Square

The spirit of Alexander is very evident in Thessaloniki, although it was not established til well after his death, named for his half-sister Thessaloniki, who was co-erced into marrying Kassandros, the man who brought down Alexander's dynasty.  (It's interesting to me as all these people are featured in my novel.  In fact, as I sat at a cafe in the Square I saw a table of men who  resembled what I imagined my generals would be like!)

 

The White Tower



I've strolled the sea-walk many times before during my various research trips to the city.  In the distance is the White Tower, one of Thessaloniki's famous landmarks that dates back to Byzantine and Ottoman times. Across from the Tower I spotted the impressive building that houses the Society of Macedonian Studies. At the edge of a park nearby I found a statue of Philip II, the father of Alexander the Great.

King Philip II

I had one of my books with me and wanted to present it to the director. However, when I went there I was told I'd need an appointment, which I didn't have, nor did I have time to set one up as I had only planned for one full day in the city. So I dropped the book off in the hands of one of the secretaries and only hope it got to the right person. (I've never heard from them so I have no idea if it was delivered).

Society for Macedonian Studies

After leaving there I walked back toward the sea. Ahead of me I could see the silhouetted outline of the famous statue of Alexander on his horse Bucephalus.  This is one of my favorite sights in the city and one I have paid homage at many times. The monument has Alexander facing East toward his conquests.  Surrounding the platform are the tall sarissas, the pikes used by his phalanx, as well as their shields all marked for the various units in the army.  It's an impressive sight!

 

Alexander the Great



Right near there is a theatre and what a surprise to see a large poster advertising a production "Alexander, the Musical". I can't imagine what it would be like!  After paying homage at the statue, I walked back over to the wonderful Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki.

Vassilika Theatre

Archaeological Museum



On my very first trip to the city back in 1979, they had just put the finds of the royal tombs of Vergina on display. What a thrill that was to be one of the first to observe them!  Since then the finds have been returned to the tombs and I have also viewed them there, a much more impressive sight than just seeing them in the museum cases.  There are still a few Alexander-themed finds in the museum as well as other interesting artifacts.

 trireme with seige equipment

 

 pottery

 

 Bust in style of Alexander

 

  Marble blocks inscribed with Alexander's name

 

 gold diadem

 

 

gold coin inscribed with Olympias, Alexander's mother

My intention was to go on a side-trip to visit Pella, the ancient capital where Alexander grew up, and one of the settings in my novel. However, my time was hurried and instead, I decided to explore the city because Thessaloniki has a long and rich history.  So the next day, instead of taking the bus to Pella, I spent the morning visiting some of the places in Thessaloniki I had not seen before, in the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman Turk parts of this amazing city.

NEXT: A Historic Walk in Thessaloniki

OFF ON ANOTHER ADVENTURE

Tower Bridge

 

 



Here I go today, August 31, off on another adventure.  My first stop is London where I always stay at the Indian Y.  Right across the park is the home of Virginia Woolf. And it's close to walk lots of places for sightseeing.

 



Virginia Woolf's House

 



I'll only spend 1 day there and then I'm off to Wales, on Sept 2.  Going to visit my Welsh cousins in Caerphilly. And of course, my usual inspection of my castle.

Caerphilly Castle

 



Then it's back to London for the Historical Fiction Writer's conference on Sept 5, 6.  This trip is part book promo and this is a great opportunity for me to make myself known and show of my copy of SHADOW OF THE LION: BLOOD ON THE MOON  (I'll be staying in a univ. dorm near the new Globe Theatre.



Then I'm back to the Indian Y one more day and I'll take one of my favorite walking tours. (Not sure which one yet)

Flying to Greece on Sept 8.  I'm looking forward to seeing all the gang at To Kati Allo and my friend Carol where I'll be staying at her Villa Olympia funky B&B.

The To Kati Allo Gang



On Sept 10 I'm heading up to Thessaloniki by train to attend Manolis Angelasaki's poetry presentation and to drop in on the Society of Macedonian Studies with my book.  I intend to visit the archaeological site of Pella,  the Royal City which is one of the settings in SHADOW. 



 

ALEXANDER

 



Then I'm going to a beach resort at Asprovalta from where I can take a short trip up to retrace my research of Amphipolis, where much of the second volume of SHADOW takes place. Here is where they have just discovered an amazing tomb, likely one of Alexander' generals. I plan to snoop around but probably won't be able to get too close.  The Lion of Amphipolis that stands by the roadside is thought to have once guarded the tomb.

The Lion of Amphipolis

Then it's back to Athens on Sept 14 and lots to do there seeing old friends, revisiting favorite sites, and exploring new gentrified areas and venues to add to the Athens Guide e-book I'm working on.

I'm doing a reading of my book at the Athen's Centre on Sept 24.  Then I'll take the train up to Larissa, Thessaly for another reading at the World Poetry Conference Sept 27.  Looking forward to meeting new friends at these. 

From then on to Oct 8 when I leave Greece, I will play it by ear,probably visit an island or two and just have some fun.

 

View from my friend Chris's house in Salamina

 



Oct 8 I arrive in Frankfurt and will meet up with my friend Patrick and spend some time with him at Meinz where he lives.  Flying home Oct 11 with lots of travel adventure tales to tell you

NEWS FROM THE HOTEL ARTEMIS

Hotel Artemis, Samos (Vathi)



Trust me to be staying at the Hotel Artemis, the goddess who preferred intellect to sex!  I keep wishing Aphrodite would speak to me as I need to write some poetry and so far I've come u p with pure drivel!
Anyway, I have this nice room, small but appropriate for a writer, overlooking the port.  A bit noisy on the street below with motor cycles and cars, but nice just the same.  A cool meltemi breeze blows fresh air into my room so I retreated there all afternoon after a morning of Museum visits.

I was heading for Turkey, via Samos, but like Odysseus, I seem to have been blown off course and never quite made it to Turkey, though its just a few nautical miles away.  It was an easy decision to stay here though, as this island has an alluring charm that attracted me from the first time I visited here 26 years ago, and on several subsequent visits when, like now, I was en route to Kusadasi and Ephesus.

This is the island of Pythagoras and the Goddess Hera.  It's a mountainous island with a mild climate.  The cooling meltemi wind blows almost constantly in summer fanning the air and making it pleasant. It's a green island, known since antiquity for it's vineyards.

I started my morning at the archaeological museum which has an interesting display of artifacts mostly from 6 - 7 cent. BC from the Heraion which I intend to visit tomorrow.  One votive offering to the goddess is a gigantic kouros, but there were many other object including some lovely little faience birds from Egypt and other unusual things that were gifts to the goddess.

Wine Tasting

Samos is known for its sweet wine and the Samian wine has been famous since antiquity.  So I took a taxi to the Samos wine museum and spent an interesting hour there browsing the displays, then relaxing in the wine tasting area.  About 8 bottles of wine were set out, various vintages and types (except 1 rose, all white wines) and you could pour and taste as man and as much as you liked.  I tried each one and decided on the Samian Nectar,  a delicious dessert wine.  When I spoke to the manager and told him who I was and that I was a travel writer, and asked for English info about the wineries, he gave me a large bottle of the Nectar as a gift!  Another Greek wine for my collection to be served at my novel's wrap party!

Samos town square

I walked back to the Samos port along the well-paved sea wall, keeping mostly to the shade and enjoying the ea breeze.  It took about an hour, but was a pleasant walk.  These are 'working' days for me now, not beach days, so I'll spend the afternoon in my room or out on the balcony overlooking the port, and contemplate my writing tasks.  So far though, the Muse has been avoiding me and I wonder why?